![]()
Lincoln
County
Place
Names
Compiled
By
M.Constance
Guardino
III
![]()
October 25, 2006
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(1) Deer Creek
Bridge (2)
Historians Connie & Del Hodges (3) Newport Courthouse (4) Molly
Catfish
& Mary Yanna
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Agate Beach,
the sea beach about three miles north of Newport, just below Yaquina
Head,
has long been noted for the very fine agates found there, and was named
to call attention to one of the principal attractions of beachcombing
in
the area. Beachcombing is at its best during the winter, when winter
waves,
high seas and runoff carry sand off the beaches, uncovering treasures.
Also, storms carry in objects lost at sea. Among the possibilities are
trash from ships, packing crates, floats, driftwood, shells, fossils—
and
agates. The Central Oregon Coast is prime agate-hunting territory.
Agates
are beautiful, translucent rocks. Before the Ice Ages, silicates,
oxides
and metals were squeezed into existing earth forms to create these
quartzes,
also known as chalcedony. More oxides and minerals create the red,
amber
and blue tones, sometimes forming a banded or mottled pattern. Some
agates
contain fossilized clams, snails and shark’s teeth. Agate Beach lives
up
to its name as the area with the greatest concentration of these rocks.
Dealers in Newport make a specialty of cutting and polishing these
stones.
The beach north of Seal Rock and mouths of freshwater streams and
rivers
are also good places. Some of the best are Cummins Creek, Bob Creek,
Nye
Beach, Ona Beach, Smelt Sands and Squaw Creek. In 1883, John
Fitzpatrick,
an Ireland-born man who, by all accounts, was an easy-going gentleman
with
a flair for investing in profitable pieces of land, purchased an
18-acre
woodland lot near Agate Beach. During the beginning of what would
become
the 19th century’s worst economic depression, Fitzpatrick built the
Monterey
Hotel on his 18-acre parcel of land, which was surrounded by more than
100 acres of forest. Popular with bathers and tourists from Salem, the
hotel enjoyed extreme prosperity during its first year in business.
Then,
for reasons “far more intriguing than simple economics,” the hotel’s
business
dropped and the tragedies began. Less than two years after the
Monterey’s
construction, Fitzpatrick was dead from pneumonia and, shortly
thereafter,
his 25-year-old daughter, Sarah Fitzpatrick, was found shot to death in
one of the hotel’s grand rooms. Today, the 18 acres is owned by the
state
and acts as a picnic and beach-access park for Agate Beach’s visitors.
In 1912, Colonel Hofer built Madinore, the first house at Agate Beach.
Other people from Salem followed and built homes, the Pattons, the
Livesleys,
Thielsens, the Bushes, and Florence Bynon’s brother Mac built a house
to
the south of Madinore. Agate Beach post office was established Apr. 18,
1912 with John G. Mackey serving as first postmaster. The office closed
to Newport on Aug. 20, 1971. Swiss-born composer Ernest Bloch
(1880-1959)
spent the last years of his life in the Newport area. Bloch had a long
and illustrious career, both in Europe and the US. From 1911 to 1915,
Bloch
taught at the Geneva Conservatory. He migrated to the US in 1916, and
founded
the Cleveland Institute of Music in 1920. Bloch was naturalized in
1924,
and served as the director of the Cleveland Institute until 1925. He
was
director of the San Francisco Conservatory of Music from 1925 to 1930.
Bloch’s compositions included works on Jewish themes, such as Trois
Poémes
Juifs (1913); Israel (1916); Schelomo (1916); Baal Shem (1923); and
Avodath
Hakodesh (1933). He built a beautiful home on the shore at Agate Beach,
a picturesque spot on the Oregon Coast which helped to inspire some of
his last works including his Symphony In E Flat, Proclamation For
Trumpet
and Orchestra and his fifth (and final) String Quartet. Bloch’s other
works
included Hiver-Printemps (1905); Macbeth (1910); Suite for Viola and
Piano
(1919); Quintet for Piano and Strings (1923); America (1926); Suite
Symphonique
(1944); and Scherzo Fantasque (1948). Today his memory is carried on
through
the Ernest Bloch Music Festival which is held annually in July.
Angora post office,
established
Dec. 5, 1898, was located on the Alsea River a few miles downstream
from
Alsea. It was in the southeast part of T13S, R9W, on or near Fall Creek
at a point not far above the mouth of the stream. Oscar Tom (or Otto
Dickoff)
was first postmaster of the Angora office, was named for the goats
raised
in the vicinity. The office was rescinded Jan. 20, 1899 and
re-established
Mar. 5, 1900. The Angora office closed to Alsea on Jun. 29, 1907. There
was another Angora post office in Coos County was formerly known as
Enchanted.
That office was located on a small prairie near Middle Fork Coquille
River,
about four miles east of Bridge. Rollin S. Belknap was first postmaster
of the Angora office, which closed to Oak on May 5, 1894.
Axtell post office,
located
on Yachats River about six miles east of Yachats, was established May
6,
1891, with John D. Axtell first postmaster. The office closed to
Waldport
Sep. 15, 1903. While nothing was left to mark the locality in 1968, the
USFS had constructed a small fish ladder near the mouth of Axtell Creek
to improve spawning access.
Barber post office,
located
on Elk Creek about three miles northwest of Harlan, was established
Mar.
30, 1911, with Clarinda Barber, first postmaster. The office, named for
the Barber family, closed to Elk City Jan. 31, 1912.
Beaver Creek: In 1976,
Hester Hill Coovert Rogers wrote: “My grandfather was Cabell Adair
Breckenridge
Patterson. He was called “Cab” for short. He married my grandmother,
Arseneon
P. Tureman. Their oldest son died six months before my mother, Harriet
E. Patterson Hill (1847-1931), was born. Cab Patterson’s mother was a
Quaker,
Lovely Truitt. The family moved to Kentucky from nearby Philadelphia
where
they first settled. Grandpa was one of a family of six children. He was
a descendent of the 13 Patterson brothers who migrated to America
during
the time of American colonist Wm. Penn (1644-1718). The Pattersons were
calvinists. In my family, the oldest son is always named “Wm.” Grandpa
was named Cab because he wasn’t the oldest son. There was a Wm.
Patterson
at the battle of Valley Forge (1777-1778) who fought for gen. Geo.
Washington
(1732-1799). He was a continental who was enlisted for the duration of
the American Revolution. Lovely Patterson sent Wm. II, who was 12 years
old, to Valley Forge to deliver socks, food and other provisions to the
Washington’s soldiers. Cab’s son, Wm., moved to Kentucky, and was a
private
in the war of 1812. Grandma was an abolitionist. She begged her spouse
to free their slaves, and told them to get out of slave territory, as
she
saw trouble was coming. One of the slaves became a good blacksmith. He
earned enough money to purchase his wife and son and fled to
Cincinnati,
OH. The family moved to Illinois to escape slavery in the South.
Mother’s
family, the Truemans were Germans who migrated to America when John Q.
Adams (1735-1826) was president. The large family settled in Illinois.
My father was Saml. Hill. He was born in Kentucky, and was the son of
Nancy
Watters and Philip Hill. His parents died when he was 12 years old,
while
the family was living in California. An uncle-in-law took all the
property
he could quickly sell and left my orphaned family alone. Neighbors
found
some wild cattle to sell, and gave dad the money. He started for Oregon
with his pony, but ran into three cousins when he stopped to camp along
the trail. They took him back to California. Later on, the applied for
a donation land claim in Oregon, but did not prove up on his claim. He
joined the confederacy, and the last letter from him was sent out
secretly
from Vicksburg (1863). That battle, a union victory, was the turning
point
of the Civil War. Before settling at Beaver Creek, near Seal Rock, he
was
hired by a woman to ferry her cattle across the river in Salem. He took
land on the South Beaver side of the hill next to Harriet Patterson’s
claim.
They were married after mother’s brother, Corlis “Ike” Patterson, was
killed
at South Beach while working for the government on the jetties. This
particular
Corlis was buried on the old homestead; the others are buried at
Fernridge
Cemetery, Seal Rock.” In 1966, Florence Payne Howell wrote: “The Payne
family moved to Beaver Creek in May, 1921. They owned the original
patent
of Sam Warfield. It was spoken of as “Mrs. Hulse’s Place” from May 1921
until the final papers were turned over to Chas. Zeek and his wife in
1955
or 1956. Dances were frequent in the downstairs of the house. It wasn’t
long before the building was becoming unsound for the activity of a
room
full of dancing. After some worry, they decided to use heavy iron rods
across the downstairs ceiling which took out the sway. Horrey Woods and
Geo. Ryan played the violin, as did many others. Herman Webber played
piano,
and Neta Phelps was very good to play long hours on the piano. Frank
Gatens
called many of the square dances. Guy Twombly could call a dance when
things
were dull. The most fascinating dancer to me was an old lady who really
danced with glee! I thought the dances were a bit noisy, but after I
learned
all of them I really loved them.” Bay post office was established May
16,
1948 as a contract station of Newport. The office was discontinued Dec.
31, 1949.
Bayview is located on
the northeast part of Alsea Bay. The post office was established Aug.
8,1901,
and the name was chosen by Danl. M. Oakland (1890-1929), the first
postmaster,
because of the view of Alsea Bay that could be had from where the
office
then stood. The office closed to Toledo Dec. 31, 1941. Oakland is
buried
at Tidewater Cemetery, as is E. E. Dyer (1861-1925), who also served as
Bayview postmaster at a later date.
Bellamy post office,
established May 24, 1898, was located four or five miles north of
Toledo
on the road to Siletz. Ola A. Tveitmoe first postmaster of this office,
and the postal facilities were intended for a small colony of
Scandinavians
living in the vicinity. The Bellamy office closed to Toledo on Jun. 15,
1899.
Beverly Beach is a small
community
north of Yaquina Head and Beverly Beach State Park adjoins it on the
north.
In 1981, Florence May Christy wrote: “During the early 1930s my
husband,
Curtis E. Christy, and I owned the property which is now known as
Beverly
Beach, Lincoln County, Oregon. Our goal was to establish a small
seaside
community on this property. In choosing a name for this site my
daughter,
Florence Daneene Christy Pearson, who at that time was a small child,
was
asked what she would like to call the community. Her favorite doll at
that
time was Beverly, and her choice of that name established the location
as Beverly Beach, which it has remained to this day.” In 1920, Lester
Martin
and C. B. Ryckman organized the Ocean Park Campground and Trout Farm
and
declared their intention to sell a limited amount of stock. Their plans
also called for at least 50 cabins and a playground. The development of
Ocean Park, which was located about where Beverly Beach State Park is
now,
coincided with construction of the Roosevelt Military Highway (US-101).
At that time, the highway snaked its way through the nearby foothills
east
of its present location. The site chosen for Ocean Park was convenient
for travelers, as the highway ran right through the grounds. Five years
later, the partners announced the completion of a new dam that created
a lake that, when filled, would cover 34 acres with six feet of water.
The partners claimed the new lake, along with their other lakes, held
enough
water to sustain 10,000,000 trout. In Jan. 1925, 1.8 million trout were
hatched at their facility, which by this time had become a mecca for
authorities
on fish and hatcheries. By 1925, the trout farm and campground had been
supplemented with a bathhouse, store, restaurant and cottages with
access
to the beach. Picture postcards from about 1930 document that ocean
Park
also kept a bear mascot chained up on the grounds. It is not known
exactly
when the trout farm and resort came to an end, but relocation of the
highway
may have been a deadly blow for this privately owned attraction. The
state
acquired lands for what would become Beverly Beach State Park
campground
in 1942 and 1943. This was shortly after construction began on the
present-day
route of US-101. In Oct. 1952, the state awarded a $23,817 contract for
construction of an overnight camping area at Spencer Creek, which flows
into the Pacific Ocean at Ocean Park about a mile south of Otter Rock.
This creek was named for Doke Spencer, an Indian who lived near its
mouth.
Spencer and his family were allotted land in this locality. According
to
a 1957 newspaper article, Beverly Beach State park opened as a park in
1953. At that time it was just 17 acres with 32 campsites, 12 trailer
spaces
and a separate parking area. The park has since grown to more than 103
acres. This 129-acre site camp and day use area now attracts in excess
of 300,000 visitors annually. While the simple pleasure of trout
fishing
in a convenient artificial pond has been long lost, the present-day
park
at Spencer Creek continues to be a popular attraction for coastal
visitors.
Boyer is located in the
extreme northeast section of Lincoln County, on OR-18, about eight
miles
east of Rose Lodge and one mile from the county line. The post office,
named for pioneer settlers Julia and John Boyer, was established Aug.
18,
1910, with Mervin O. Boyer first postmaster. The office closed to Rose
Lodge Mar. 31, 1915. In 1908, Julia and John Boyer settled near here.
Phil
Sheridan Road was probably built in 1856 while Sheridan was on police
patrol
duty at Ft. Yamhill. It facilitated necessary travel via the Old Elk
Trail,
ocean beaches, and Siletz River to the Siletz Indian Agency, and an
attempt
was made to make the Old Elk Trail a toll road as early as 1860. Other
desultory attempts followed and in 1908, John Boyer improved the route,
over which people had used to crossed the Coast Range since antiquity,
and established the Salmon River Toll Road. which he and Julia Boyer
operated
for 12 years. In winter the road was almost impassable. In 1930, Boyer
was honored at a public ceremony as “Father of the Salmon River Road.”
Burnt Woods post office
is in the eastern part of Lincoln County, near Tumtum River, where the
remains of forest fires are still much in evidence. The office was
established
in 1919, and a list of suggested names was sent to the Post Office
Department.
On the list was Burnt Woods, proposed by H. G. Downing, and this was
the
name chosen by authorities. Early Tumtum (Burnt Woods) School stood in
back of the present store on the road to Harlan. The teacher in 1910
was
Ida Hurley. Students were Clara Downing, Grant Downing, Mae Downing,
who
married Rbt. Richardson, Emily Harris, who married Archie McFarland,
Ada
McDowell, who married Morty Lake of Peak, Lavern McDowell, Lester
McDowell,
Albert Roscoe, and Willard Roscoe.11 In 1885, railroad baron Wallis
Nash
said Tumtum Precinct beings at the divide between Little Elk and
Yaquina
rivers on the north and extends to the dividing ridge between the
waters
of Big Elk Creek and Alsea River on the south, and from the mouth of
the
Little Elk to a point a little west of Blodgett’s Valley, being in the
vicinity of 12 miles from east to west and ten from north to south. It
is actually bounded on the north by Summit precinct, and on the south
by
Alsea Precinct, on the west by Elk City Precinct on the east by Kings
Valley
and Philomath precincts. Little Elk Creek near the central portion of
the
precinct, passing out at its northeast corner; while Big Elk Creek has
its source in the southeast corner o the west and southwest slopes of
Marys
Peak, and flowing westerly enters Elk City Precinct. Rising on the
northwest
gradient of Marys Peak is that fork of Mary Peak called Shot Pouch
which,
after flowing in a northerly direction for some distance, turns aborted
to the southeast; while, at the most northerly point of the precinct
the
Tumtum comes in from the westward. Bordering the stream last named is a
beautiful mountain glen, lying at a high altitude and extending as far
as the Summit towards Little Elk Creek, whose valley is much lower and
comprises wide lands long ago brought into cultivation. Big Elk Creek
has
larger bottom lands on its banks than any other stream in the region;
while
on much of the smaller water courses, such as Deer and Wolf creeks, and
the several brooks on the north and south, considerable fertile lands
are
seen, clothed with the richest pasture for livestock of all kinds. Many
excellent farms have been made along the courses of Big Elk Creek and
its
tributaries, yet there is room for more; but this valley is, so far,
isolated,
there being only a single thoroughfare that connects it with the upper
end; still there is no reason why one should not be constructed to Elk
City. The Shot Pouch, which is afterwards known as one of the forks of
Mary's River, rejoins in much valuable land along its route, nor for
most
part covered with a growth of the wild cherry. Still there are portions
of it in cultivation, but owing to its high position it is subject to
keen
frosts. Marys Peak, which marks the northeastern corner of Alsea
precinct,
is situated in the southeast angle of Tumtum. It attains an altitude of
4000 feet and is often snow-capped until the month of Aug. Its summit
is
bald, devoid of timber but covered with a growth of indigenous grass
better
than which for pasturage is not to be found anywhere. In form the apex
is crescent-shaped, comprises between 300 and 400 acres, owned by the
veteran
pioneer, Wm. Wyatt, who uses it during the summer months as a range for
horses. Like in other portions of the district the timber has succumbed
to the devouring element, but there are sufficient remains to show that
there once existed a magnificent cedar forest. The early settlers in
this
precinct first supplied their household wants from what the country
then
offered. Until there lands could be brought into subjection they
usually
depended upon shingle making as a source of revenue, or barter for
groceries,
while their tables were laden with venison, then more plentiful amid
the
hills than now. Little grain is produced in Tumtum Precinct, the chief
industry being livestock raising, which is year by year growing into
greater
importance, their ranches being extended as their flocks and herds
increase.
Pasturage is extended by the sowing of tame grasses, the seed for which
is the product of their own labor, while the grangers here have for
some
time past supplied the Corvallis market with beef and mutton bred upon
their lands. The capabilities of this precinct are second to none in
the
county, while the opportunities for taking up granges is as good as in
any other portion of the state. The population is about 250, chiefly
composed
of agriculturists, who are greatly in want of postal facilities, their
nearest distributing point being at Philomath, some 20 to 30 miles
away.
The precinct includes three schoolhouses in Big Elk, Shot Pouch, and
the
vicinity of Little Elk valleys, while religious services are
irregularly
held in these buildings or in the private residences of squatters.
There
is no store within the precinct, supplies being drawn from either
Corvallis
or Philomath. Among the first settlers in this precinct were Alfred
Flickinger,
Jas. C. (1849-? MO) and J. H. Yantis (1831-? MO) and Solomon Mulkey
(1823-?
MO).
Caledonia, so called
after the name given to Scotland by the Gauls, was first located Jan.
1,
1885, and is situated at the junction of the Caledonia (Olalla) River
with
the Yaquina. It was laid out in 1885 by Henry Wilkinson Vincent
(1827-1922)
on the claim of Wm. Stevens, while so favorable is the side considered
that town lots have found a ready sale. During the spring a hotel and
store
was started as well as the Chas. Logsden Sawmill. Caledonia was
beautifully
located and placed upon the county road. Vincent was born in Watertown,
NY, Apr. 1, 1832. In 1851, he moved to Ripon, WI, and married Judith D.
Stevens (1835-1903), a native of Gouldsborough, ME. The couple had
three
children: Frank, Fred and Georgia. On Jul. 3, 1874, the Vincents
arrived
in Benton County, and first located in Corvallis. Another early
settler,
Geo. S. Briggs, who owned a large fruit orchard in Caledonia, was
originally
from Medina County, OH. He was born Oct. 27, 1834. His parents moved to
Racine County, WI, when he was two years old. The family remained there
until 1850 when the moved to Fayette County, IA. Briggs enlisted in
Company
F, 9th Vet. of Iowa, Feb. 28, 1864 and served until Jun. 1865. He
returned
to his home in Iowa and migrated to Portland, OR in 1870. In 1876, he
moved
to Yaquina Bay and purchased his 390-acre farm, on which he had an
orchard
of over 6000 trees, 4000 of which were Italian Prunes. Jos. Thompson, a
printer, also settled at Caledonia. Thompson was born in Huntington
County,
(Blair County) PA, in 1832, where he resided until 1852. In the spring
of that year, Thompson joined the Morrison Train at Dubuque, IA, and
crossed
the plains to Oregon. When the party reached Tule (Modoc) Lake in
Southern
Oregon, they were surprised by 150 Modoc, and after a desperate fight,
which resulted in the loss of three lives and injuries to Thompson,
they
were finally rescued by a party from Yreka. Upon his arrival at Yreka,
Thompson began mining. He then went to Sacramento and San Francisco
where
he worked as a printer, and at one time published a paper at Nevada
City.
While living in Nevada City, Thompson married Mary V. Herbert. The
Thompsons
were the parents of five children: Morris, Daisy, Jos. II, Lillie and
Harriet.
In 1869, he and his family migrated to Yaquina Bay, and homesteaded 160
acres adjoining the new town of Caledonia. However, he spent most of
his
time in Portland working on daily papers.13 Located near Toledo,
Caledonia
was probably named for the Caledonian Canal dividing the Grampian
Mountains
from the West Highlands in Scotland. The canal connects the North Sea
with
the Atlantic Ocean. The Caledonia Hills between Portage and Baraboo,
WI,
are part of the circular Baraboo Range around which the Wisconsin River
flows. Briggsville is about eight miles northwest of Portage, and may
be
named for the Briggs family that migrated to Yaquina Bay. Caledonia,
WI,
an unincorporated village about six miles northwest of Racine on Root
River
and about eight miles south or Milwaukee, is an agricultural region.
Famous
Portage historian Frederick J. Turner noted “the large number of Scots
at Caledonia.” Apple Holler in Sturtevant, WI, features over 50 acres
of
16 different varieties of apples. This farm hosts tours of its orchard
and cider mill. Caledonia is the Latin word for Scotland, and there are
numerous Scottish settlements throughout north America that bear that
name.
Euro-Americans in the new country followed the land, and the formation
of the land. They settled on the kind of land where they thought they
would
find happiness and prosperity. In the hills, the hill people of Norway,
Switzerland, Wales, Germany, Scotland and other far countries tended to
settle, and they called the places New Glarus, Wales, Berlin, Vienna,
New
Holstein and Caledonia. Caledonia, Columbia County, WI, was named by
Scottish
settlers. It was probably named by the McDonald brothers who settled
there
in 1836. Caledonia, Tremplealeau County, WI, was named by Alexander and
Donald McGilvray and other Scottish settlers, Caledonia, Racine County,
WI, was named for Scottish settlers. This area also had Welsh, Irish,
Bohemian,
and German settlements.15 Other Caledonia settlements in the New World
include Caledonia, Ontario, Canada (pop. 3,183); Caledonia, MN
(population
2,619); Caledonia, NY (pop. 2,327); Caledonia, OH (pop. 792); and
Caledonia
County, VT (pop. 22,789).
Chitwood was a station
on the Southern Pacific line along the Yaquina River, about six miles
southeast
of Toledo. Chitwood post office was established Jul. 12, 1887, with
Jas.
B. Chitwood first postmaster. Geo. T. Smith, postmaster at Chitwood,
wrote
in 1925 that the station and post office were named for Josh. Chitwood,
who lived near the present site of the community when the railroad was
built down to the Yaquina between 1881 and 1885. On Jun. 30, 1945,
Chitwood
closed to Toledo.
Collins post office,
located about three miles north of Waldport, was established Jan. 31,
1875,
with Matt. Brand first postmaster. Numerous name changes mark the
history
of this post office as it moved about Alsea Bay. This office, formerly
known as Drift Wood, was named in honor of Geo. W. Collins, the first
settler
in the Lower Alsea. Collins came in 1860 as Indian agent for the
subagency
of the Alsea Reservation. Formerly part of the Coast Reservation, which
by treaty with the Indians extended for 90 miles along the coast and
about
20 miles inland, Alsea Subagency near Yachats was established in 1856.
David D. Fagan’s History of Benton County records: “When whites began
to
settle in the Alsea district they found there the remnants of three
tribes:
the ‘Alseas’ by the bay and on the coast, a people of fishers; the
‘Klickitats’
who hunted in the woods and over the mountains to the south; and the
‘Drift
Creek Indians’ whose homes were scattered through the heavy timber
round
Table Mountain and on the streams leading thereabouts, to the east and
northeast of Alsea. Though generally at enmity with each other yet
there
were times when, feuds laid aside, the hunting tribes visited their
neighbors
by the ocean in peace, bringing with them the spoils of the chase to
exchange
for the sea fish and shell fish of the Alseas. Then fires were lighted
and feasting and jollity went on day after day together.” The agency
was
closed in 1875 and Indians were forced to remove to Siletz so
non-indians
could settle here. Collins post office was discontinued Jun. 17, 1881.
The name of the office was changed to Waldport on Feb. 23, 1882. It was
changed again to Lutgens on May 17, 1890.
Cutler City, just
south
of Taft and on the east shore of Siletz Bay, has had a remarkable
development
as a resort town. This is a beautiful area full of huckleberries,
rhododendrons
and pine trees. There was one deserted house which everyone referred to
as Gibbs Point. It was often a picnic spot, reached only by crossing
Schooner
Creek by horse and wagon or by boat, or wading at low tide. Due to the
high rock point, the pioneers were unable to cut a road through. The
town
was named for Geo. Cutler, who acquired the property from Charley
DePoe,
a Siletz Indian, and developed the resort with several other nearby
communities
to form Lincoln City. The post office was established Apr. 14, 1930,
with
Jacob H. Boomer serving as first postmaster. The Cutlers formerly lived
near Dallas. Cutler died in 1913, and his wife in 1939. On Dec. 8,
1964,
Cutler City voted to become part of a new community called Lincoln
City,
and the post office was discontinued on Sep. 24, 1965.
Delake post office, named
for
Devils Lake, near which it was located, was established Jan. 11, 1924.
Henry A. Hostetler, a civic leader, bought Indian allotment land in the
Delake area as early as 1910 but it was 1925 before growth began.
Arthur
C. Deuel, the first postmaster, said that Delake was the name agreed
upon
by himself and judge Frank L. Mann (1863-1956), a Lincoln County
resident,
because it was the way many of the Finnish people, who settled in the
area
as fishermen, pronounced Devils Lake. When the name of the original
post
office was changed to Oceanlake on Mar. 15, 1927, the site was moved a
bit over a mile south. The original community then applied for and
received
a new post office, which was established the same date that the name
change
took place. The Delake post office was discontinued Sep. 24, 1965, and
on Dec. 8, 1964, Delake voted to become part of a new community to be
called
Lincoln City. Development of all areas began with the opening of the
highway
and continues to this day. In 1837, Methodist missionaries Jason Lee
and
Cyrus Sheppard, with their brides of one month, and guide Jos. Gervias,
came over the Old Elk Trail and camped at the site of what is now
Delake
for a week. The honeymooners “cured themselves of malaria and
evangelized
the Salmon River Indians.” So far as is known, they were the first
vacationers
on the Oregon Coast.20
Denzer post office,
located
on Lobster Creek, about five miles southeast of Tidewater, was
established
Apr. 10, 1909, with Frederick C. Denzer first postmaster. The post
office
closed to Alsea Aug. 31, 1933.
Depoe Bay is an
appealing
village that has grown up around a tiny rock-bound harbor that claims
to
be the world’s smallest. Wm. Least Heat Moon in Blue Highways wrote
that
“Depoe Bay used to be a picturesque fishing village; now it was just
picturesque.
The fish houses, but for one seasonal company, were gone, the fleet
gone,
and in their stead had come sport fishing boast and souvenir ashtray
and
T-shirt shops.” To be fair, tourists have always come here since the
establishment
of the town. In fact, for all intents and purposes, the town didn’t
really
exist until the completion of the Roosevelt Highway in 1927, which
opened
the area up to car travelers. Prior to that time, the area had been
mainly
occupied by a few members of the Siletz Reservation. All told, this
picturesque
little fishing village has an interesting history. In 1878, Fred W.
Vincent
of Pendleton and his grandfather cruised up the Oregon Coast north from
Newport and observed a break in the shoreline. Lowering the sails of
this
40-foot boat, they finally rowed it into the little harbor. “We found
there
the anchor chains of a sea-going craft, two headlights and the letters
US, so we named the little spot Wreckers Cove,” said Vincent. In 1894,
lands about Depoe Bay just north of Cape Foulweather were allotted by
the
US government to Charley Depot, a Siletz Indian whose name derived from
the fact that as a young man he had been employed at a US Army depot.
In
Jun. 1927, the then owners, Sunset Investment Company of Portland,
platted
a modern townsite and named it in honor of Old Charley, whose family
name
had evolved from plain “depot” to the more fancy “DePoe.” Rumor had it,
however, that his was a bit too fancy for Uncle Sam who decreed that
the
post office established there Oct. 26, 1928, should be plain Depoe Bay,
and so it remains. Evidence of an ancient culture, Indian shell mounds
and kitchen middens can still be seen in and around the city. The name
became Depoe Bay when the post office was established Aug. 26, 1928.
Esther
M. Baird was first postmaster of this office, , located on the north
side
of the bay, about 13 miles north of Newport. The narrow inlet of Depoe
Bay is the world’s smallest navigable harbor, with just six square
acres
of water. Because of its proximity to the ocean, fishermen or whale
watchers
can be from dockside to viewing or fishing in a matter of minutes. The
town has the distinction of being the only town of the entire coast
with
this amenity. Waves run the beneath lava beds and build pressure to
spout
water as high as 60 feet into the air. These are known as “spouting
horns”
and are visible during turbulent seas and stormy weather. Depoe Bay is
also the Whale Watching Capital of the Oregon Coast with its resident
pod
of grey whales which makes its home there ten months out of the year.
Each
spring the town hosts the “Celebration of the Whales.” Fleet of Flowers
celebration is held on Memorial Day. Local boats venture out of the
harbor
to place floral wreaths on the Pacific as a tribute to friends and
loved
ones. Over 20,000 people come to witness a blanket of blossoms cast
upon
high waters. The Depoe Bay Salmon Bake takes place on the third Sat. of
Sep. at Depoe Bay City Park, located just south and east of the bridge
flanking the rear of the boat basin. Approximately 3000 pounds of fresh
ocean fish are caught cooked over open fires of alder and cedar just as
Indians like Matilda and Wm. Depoe did years ago. In her Apr. 4, 199
letter
to M. Constance Guardino III, Julie Hendricks of Tiller wrote: “While
working
at PCH, I met and came to love Chief Wm. Depoe while he was alive. I
hope
his biography is published one day. He was quite a dear fellow, with
many
stories to tell. He lived a very full and rewarding life. He was in one
Elvis movie, and he was on the Lawrence Welk show. Through his 80-plus
years he remained very active with cultural activities, and he
maintained
a superb sense of humor. He declined rapidly after his wife passed on.”
Devils Lake is near the
Pacific Ocean in the southwest part of Lincoln County. Devils Lake post
office, located near the north end of the lake, was established Jan. 9,
1913, with Cecil Cosper first postmaster. The office closed to Otis
Jul.
15, 1918. Native American mythology persists with fables of fearsome
megafauna—a
giant fish or marine monster—dwelling in Devils Lake, and occasionally
came to the surface to attack some hapless person. Yearly religious
rites
and sacrifices were probably practiced to appease the awesome creature.
There are several versions of the story but this one is sufficient to
indicate
the origin of the name.
Drift Creek was the
first
post office to be established in the Alsea Bay area. Located three
miles
north of Waldport, the Drift Creek office was established Aug. 6, 1874,
with Matthew Brand postmaster, and was named for the accumulation of
driftwood
on the banks of the stream which enters the eastern end of the Bay. The
name of the office was changed to Collins on Jan. 31, 1876, in honor of
George W. Collins who was born in Spencer, KY, Apr. 22, 1832. In 1846
Collins
moved to Adams County, IL. The family migrated to California in 1850,
where
Collins was a miner until 1853, when he moved to Jackson County and
took
part in the Rogue River Indian Wars. Collins first settled in the Lower
Alsea area. In 1857, he moved to the Siletz area, worked in the early
1860s
as an employee on the Coast Reservation. From 1864 through 1869 he was
Indian subagent in charge of the Alsea Agency until he was relieved by
lt. Beatty. In 1871, Collins located on a farm near Seal Rock. Collins’
report for 1864 shows 580 Indians at the Alsea Agency. “The Coos and
Umpqua
tribes of Indians have at this place comfortable houses to live in;
they
have two barns and also two potato houses. The Syouslaus (Siuslaws)
have,
mostly, frame houses, weather-boarded with clapboards. The Alsea
Indians
have a few frame houses, but most of them are Indian style, built under
ground, or very nearly so.” When David Ruble became postmaster of
Collins,
the site moved from the north to south shore of Alsea Bay. The name of
this office was changed to Waldport on Jun. 17, 1881, and back to
Collins
on Feb. 23, 1882. Ruble lost the position of postmaster during this
transition.
This post office in Waldport may have been on the north side of Alsea
Bay,
not on the south side. Collins was changed to Lutgens (or Lutjens) on
May
1890, and Lutgens was changed to Stanford Jul. 29, 1883. W. C. Shepard
was first postmaster while the office was so named, but the reason for
the Stanford name has been obscured. The post office retained that name
until Jun. 21, 1897, when it became Lutgens again. Albert H. Lutgens
was
postmaster of this office, located four miles south of Seal Rock on the
north shore of Alsea Bay. On Apr. 24, 1917, the name of the office was
changed to Nice, in honor of Harry Nice, a prominent Alsea Bay resident
during the last part of the 19th century. Nora L. Strake was first
postmaster
of this final office, which closed to Waldport on Nov. 15, 1919. This
post
office had eight names during its 45 years of service, possibly a
record.
No other Oregon office appears to have approached this mark. It is
obvious
that the office was moved a number of times. However, the offices
mentioned
above were all in the general vicinity of Alsea Bay.
Eddyville post office,
established Mar. 13, 1888, was located about a mile west of the
original
Little Elk site on Yaquina River, and about eight miles east of Toledo.
The office was named for Israel F. Eddy, who served as the postmaster
of
Little Elk for nine years prior to the name change. The Eddyville
office
seems to have had more than the usual number of moves. It was first
called
Little Elk, because it was near the mouth of Little Elk Creek. About
1888
Israel Fiske Eddy, the postmaster, moved the office about a mile west
and
had the name changed to Eddyville. Some four years later the office was
brought back to its original location and the name changed to Little
Elk.
About 1893 it was moved again to Eddy’s place and was continued under
the
name Eddyville. According to Bea Eddy-Wilcox, who is a member of the
Lincoln
County Historical Society and the DAR, Israel Fisk Eddy (1824-1911),
the
legendary early settler of Eddyville, was a man of generous size. He
stood
six feet, seven inches tall, and was said to be very powerful. He
probably
weighed well over 250 pounds, and had to stoop and enter an ordinary
doorway
sideways. Most of the legends about Israel Eddy had to do with his
tremendous
strength. One old timer said he saw Israel take the axle of the wheel
of
a loaded hay wagon and lift it out of the mud so the horses could pull
it out of a mud hole. He said he was a tiny boy at the time, and was
overwhelmed
by Eddy’s strength. Another tale says that Israel could put a heavy
steel
spike—similar to the ones used in making bridges—between his fingers,
slam
down on it, and the spike would bend to their shape. Israel settled in
what is now the town of Eddyville, in 1870. He was 46 years old. At the
time, the area was known as Little Elk. His first wife, P. D. Eddy, who
he married back in Vermont, died after he had reared a family, so he
remarried.
The Eddys had a son named Perry and a daughter named Eva May
(1862-1875)
who was 13 years old when they came West to Lincoln County. She died
Dec.
27, 1875, at the age of 13 years and seven months. Israel left his land
and everything dear to him in Minnesota and came out West to join his
father,
Ezekiel Eddy (1800-1890) who was already here with his wife, Lucy Fisk
(1805-1878). Ezekiel had crossed the plains at least twice in his
lifetime.
He was a considerably old man to be making such a move, and he brought
his grown children with him. The old man was a true son of the American
Revolution (1775-1783), because his father, Jas. Eddy, fought in the
war.
Israel bought land in Little Elk from a young bride and groom. Legend
has
it that he and his father rode to Corvallis and came back with a mule
or
two loaded down with silver money to pay for the land. They built a
sawmill
and a gristmill on this land, and used a small dam on the Yaquina to
supply
the power. The heavy stones used to grind the grain were shipped from
England,
and were carried from Siletz Bay to the Eddy gristmill on the back of a
Indian woman! Israel’s reason for putting a gristmill in the middle of
tall timber was a puzzle to some people, but he was convinced that the
railroad was coming through to connect Central Oregon—which people then
believed would become the grain capital of the world—with the Central
Oregon
Coast. The prediction was that Newport would become an enormous
seaport,
and the grain from Eastern and Central Oregon would be shipped to
foreign
ports from there. These plans never materialized, however, and Israel
ended
up grinding flour for local use instead of foreign trade. The railroad,
it is thought, could have been instrumental in changing Little Elk to
Eddyville.
Israel owned a lot of land in the Little Elk area when col. T. Egenton
Hogg was putting in the Corvallis & Eastern Railway through to the
coast. When Israel gave the railroad right-of-way privileges through
his
land, it was under the consideration that they would name the area
Eddyville.
But there were other more powerful interests, primarily in Portland,
that
didn’t want to see Newport become an enormous port with all the grain
from
Eastern and Central Oregon being shipped through it. Although it is
“unofficial,”
some people still speculate that there was sabotage beyond belief on
this
railroad. Tunnels were set on fire, bridges were undercut or burned,
and
every underhanded deed was done to try and keep the railroad from
succeeding.
It went bankrupt time and time again. Wallis Nash (1837-1926) poured
millions
of dollars into it. But Portland interests bought up a great deal of
land
around Yaquina Bay, so that docks couldn’t be built. Considerable land
in Lincoln County is still owned by some of these old estates. There
were
people who were determined that Portland alone was going to be the big
port; they didn’t want Newport developed at any cost. Another story
states
that in 1888, Israel Eddy, who was then postmaster of Little Elk, moved
the post office a mile west onto his own property and changed the name
to Eddyville. He also established the cemetery on his farm. This
location
was approximately where Eddy Creek and the Yaquina meet. The office was
moved east to McBride’s store in 1892 with the name changed back to
Little
Elk. Upon petition, the office was moved back to Eddy’s and the name
was
changed to Eddyville. Eddy sold to Conroy and the post office went with
it. The next change was to Flam Young who kept it until 1897 when it
moved
back to McBride’s store. The Post Office Department however declined to
change the name, giving as the reason, they did not like the double
name.
The office was sold to Stringer, and in about 1938 to Frances Mauch.
Ms.
Sparks and Ms. Boynton took it when it came under civil service. Israel
was fond of trees and had a fine orchard in Eddyville. People from
around
Siletz and Kernville would come over and help out with the apple
harvest.
This was something they looked forward to in the autumn because they
always
had a good time, particularly the children. In the evenings they would
build campfires and Israel would entertain them with an organ grinder,
at which he was reputed to be quite talented. That was a big treat for
everyone—especially the children—in days of limited entertainment.
Besides
the other enterprises, Israel owned a grocery store. Above the store
was
a big room he divided off with curtains into a sleeping room for people
traveling through. The room was also used for dances he threw on
Saturday
nights. Dances in those days were very important sources of
entertainment.
People would come from miles around on horseback or in wagons. They
would
bring along their children and put them to bed in the back of their
wagons
and prepared to spend the night. The dancers and their families would
have
breakfast the following morning. Liquor was brought to the dances.
Inevitably
there would be a fight, and Israel took it upon himself to break them
up.
He would take the offenders by the back of their necks and pull them
apart.
Then he would escort them outside and dump them in a watering trough.
In
1908 at the wedding of a local young lady, he appeared with a coonskin
cap and ear trumpet and regaled the assembly with the story of how he
recovered
from the flue by drinking a swig of piano polish mistaken for his
medicine.
Israel Eddy loved to travel. From one trip he took on horseback to
California,
he brought hack several redwood trees. One redwood stands today on
former
Eddy land. It is located on the north edge of Highway 20 on the
straight
stretch in the road just west of Eddyville. The redwoods around
Chitwood
might possibly have been planted there by him. Israel’s son, Perry,
married
Mary Amanda Franz. She was the daughter of a Civil War captain, Saml.
Franz,
and his wife, Mary. They came across the plains 1850 and bought Ft.
Hoskins
directly from the government. Perry and Mary Amanda had a family of
five
children. They were all born in Kings Valley or Hoskins, at the
junction
of the Kings Valley and Hoskins roads. Eddy died in 1911 at the age of
87 years.
Elk City, a point of
departure for hunting and fishing parties, is located at the mouth of
Elk
Creek on Yaquina River, about four miles east of Toledo. Marys Peak is
the most prominent mountain in the Coast Range as it crosses Benton
County.
Down its western slope flows a clear, sparking stream typical of those
in coastal Oregon. Near its banks, in 1856, was camped a party of
explorers
in search of grazing land. Food supplies were low and supper was
expected
to be beans as usual. Then one man saw a fine bull elk standing on a
hill,
an easy mark for his gun. In memory of this provident event the stream
became Elk Creek. The first settlement at Elk City was made by the
Corvallis
and Yaquina Bay Wagon Road Company, who erected a warehouse here in
1866.
Here was the overland terminus of the stage and mail route, the rest of
the distance to the bay being by water. The settlement was named Newton
for the man who laid out the plat in 1868, Albitha Newton, and placed
it
as far up the Yaquina as boats could go. During normal low water
periods
the stream was quite narrow, branches hanging low and sometimes
brushing
the heads of boat passengers. Water-soaked snags lurked on the bottom
of
the none too deep waterway to scrape bottoms or rip holes in them. At
times
of high water the menace of low trees and branches became worse but the
influence of ocean tides became noticeable. As Newton grew more and
more
travel came up the river from Toledo. At Yaquina City and Newport below
on the bay, efforts were made to clear the waterway by removing snags
and
cutting branches. A small dock was prefabricated at Toledo, brought up
on a barge and installed on the bank. Then it was possible for small
steamboats
to tie up at the town and regular service was instituted. A
flat-bottomed
stern wheeler was the first to make regular runs, down the bay one day
and back the next. The railroad was also completed through Newton and
on
to bay points. Two saloons, a hotel, store, and Odd Fellows Lodge which
was shared by other fraternal orders, many cabins and houses—all grew
up
on the site, giving the place the appearance of a real town. During the
major active period of the Oregon Pacific Railroad, Elk City flourished
as an important point on the route but as the railroad declined so did
the town. The first post office had been established in 1868 with Edwin
A. “Kit” Abbey the postmaster. Marshall W. Simpson held the job next,
was
out of the office for a while and then returned Nov. 23, 1888. He came
full of ideas about advancing the status of the little town and one of
the first efforts he made was getting the name changed from Newton to
Elk
City to conform to the name of the post office. The town flourished
until
automobiles took away the need for river traffic. And as logging in the
area declined so did Elk City. Another blow was the abandonment of the
rock quarries which had provided a live industry with workers living
and
buying supplies in the town. The old grocery which for years housed the
post office is the only business still going in the town by the
Yaquina.
The Scovilles now operate it and a gas pump (1964). They tell of
frequent
floods when the only traffic through the main street was by boat. “All
these coastal rivers are short,” says W. S. Scoville. “Our heavy winter
rains of sometimes two and three inches a day quickly swell them to
flood
heights. In early days there was a sawmill and hotel here. One time
when
the river was exceptionally high the water took a lot of lumber piled
in
the sawmill yard and slammed it against the hotel turning it on its
side
so it had to be torn down. It was never rebuilt and neither was the
wrecked
sawmill. That seems to be the way of the old town went, little by
little.”
Elk City still has at least one resource, says Scoville. “We have extra
good fishing here, especially in the middle of summer when steelhead
salmon
and blueback are running. Then fishermen bring their families over from
the Willamette Valley and stay a while. We keep those little cabins
there
rented all the time.” On Dec. 31, 1958, the Elk City post office closed
to Toledo.
Euclid post office was
established May 25, 1904, with Martin G. Lyon postmaster, and closed
Apr.
30, 1909. In 1949, F. W. Furst, superintendent of the Siuslaw National
Forest, wrote that Euclid post office was at or near the site of an
earlier
office called Axtell had been discontinued in the summer of 1903. The
Euclid
post office was just to the east of the mouth of North Fork Yachats
River
in T145, R11W. It is reported that the name was given by Allen Beamer,
a nearby resident who had a reputation for being a scholarly
individual.
Just why the name of the Greek geometrician (300 BCE) was selected has
not been explained. In the spring of 1908, Lyon gave up the office and
the establishment was moved some distance upstream on the north side of
Grass Creek.
Fisher post
office
was named for the fisher, Mustela pennanti. Well-known outdoor writer,
Tom McAllister, described this rare animal: “This cat sized hunter of
squirrels
and other small animals is a member of the family Mustellidae which
includes
minks, martens, weasels, badgers, otters and skunks. Before its near
disappearance
in Oregon, it lived in undisturbed virgin forest at low to intermediate
elevations and often followed stream courses on its solitary rounds.
The
fisher vanished in the Coast Range with loss of habitat, trapping and
the
use of poison baits to control coyotes and wolves, but in the 1980s it
was reported again in the Cascade Range. Oldtime trappers prized the
fisher
for the beauty and high value of the pelts.” Fisher post office was
established
Mar. 19, 1892, but was not always in one location. The post office was
discontinued Jan. 31, 1911, and re-established Jul. 8, 1912. The office
closed to Alsea Sep. 30, 1942. Formerly known as Vernon, it is reported
that Bennett Olsen suggested the name for the Fisher office. Vernon
post
office, located three miles due north of Fisher, was established May 1,
1905, with Martin L. Earnest first postmaster. Martin Johanson was the
first postmaster, and J. W. Mink later held the office. Remarkable
nomenclature.
In fact, aptness of description, sometimes with a jest, is evident in
the
names applied to other pioneer Oregon localities. Some of this
nomenclature
persists, but much of it has been discarded by a more polite but less
poetic
era. Fair Play was so called from the fairness of its horse races. Lick
Skillet and Scanty Grease have an obvious origin. Row River was named
for
neighborhood feuds; Soap Creek for bachelors who had no soap; and Ah
Doon
Hill for a Chinese who was shanghaied there. Hells’ Canyon on Snake
River,
the deepest chasm in America, is as descriptive of wild grandeur as
God’s
Valley in the Nehalem country is of peace.
Fredericksburg: John
A. Olsson was born in Gutenberg, Sweden, Mar. 20, 1838. At the age of
14
he went to sea. In 1864, he traveled from San Francisco with capt.
Winant
to Yaquina Bay, to work in the oyster business. In Jan. 1866, he
homesteaded
112 acres (Olssonville) on the north side of the Bay. In 1882, he had
his
estate divided, with part going to an addition to the City of Newport
and
the balance going to the town of Fredericksburg which he named and
started
started.30
Glen post office was in the west part of T12S,
R9W, a few miles south of Salado. It was on Upper Drift Creek or one of
its tributaries. The office was established Jan. 17, 1894, with Simeon
J. Wilhoit first of three postmasters. The office was closed to Elk
City
on Jun. 30, 1912. The name Glen is said to have been applied by Jerry
Banks
in honor of some town where he had lived previously, but the compiler
has
been unable to identify the place.
Gleneden Beach post
office,
located one mile south of the south end of Siletz Bay, established Nov.
1, 1927, with Wm. F. Cary (or Craig) first postmaster. On Jun. 23,
1961,
Gleneden Beach was designated a rural station of Taft. On Sep. 24,
1965,
it was designated a rural station of Lincoln City, but a postmark was
used
for a short time which read “Gleneden Beach.” Gleneden Beach is a type
of descriptive name frequently found in seashore areas where there are
high hopes of real estate sales. The place is about a mile south of the
south end of Siletz Bay. In 1949 a Japanese horned mine drifted ashore
at Gleneden Beach. A bomb disposal expert was called. He tunneled
through
the sand under the mine to remove its base plate and to disable the
booster
charge and sensitive horn connections. The deactivated shell is on
exhibit
at the museum. Accounts exist that at least six other mines washed up
on
Oregon’s coast during the late 1940s. In Jan. 2000, just days after
moving,
cars filled the parking lot and customers hustled and bustled through
the
bright, clean lobby of the new Gleneden Beach post office. Postmaster
Louise
Cremeen looked at the activity with pride and said, “It’s the ‘Cheers’
of Gleneden Beach. It’s where everyone knows your name.” And it didn’t
take postal patrons long to find their way a few blocks down the street
to the post office’s new location at 6645 Gleneden Beach Loop Road, on
the ground floor of the Blue Mountain Contractors building next to the
Side Door Cafe. Cremeen, who was awarded the two-year post office
contract
in December, said there was some initial grumbling about moving the
facility
from its previous long-time location. But the town is growing and
progressing,
she said, and it was time for a change. Apparently, most of her
customers
agreed, as more than a dozen showed up on New Year’s Day to move
equipment,
hundreds of post office boxes, and even a two-ton safe to the new spot.
“There was no delivery on Saturday, and we had to move and be open on
Monday.
We couldn’t miss a mail day,” explained Cremeen. The move was completed
in less than eight hours, thanks to many hands and cars—and a pick-up
that
towed the safe (on rollers) down Gleneden Beach Loop Road to its new
home.
Cremeen, who worked for the prior Gleneden Beach postmaster and had the
emergency contract for the site in Oct. and Nov., said the community is
pleased with the change. She said, “Everybody has loved the fact we
moved.
Before, it was 20 to 25 years in the same place.” The move in careers
has
also been good for Cremeen, whose background is in inventory control
and
purchasing. “It’s the most fun job I’ve ever had in my life,” she said.
Cremeen firmly believes the “post office belongs to its customers.” She
and her crew, Lora Perry and Jeannie Angermayer, plan to operate the
facility
that way, catering to their 800-1000 patrons. She appreciates the help
the post office received in moving, and said, “I couldn’t have done it
without customers, and also John Manca’s (Blue Mountain Contractors)
crew.”
Harborton, now known
as South Beach, is an unincorporated part of Lincoln County located on
the south shore of Yaquina Bay. The earliest notice of the area was
during
WWI when the US Army spruce division established Camp III at Idaho
Point
to get out lumber for planes and ships. Camp I was at Beaver Creek near
Waldport. Logs were shipped by rail to South Beach and then rafted to
Toledo
to the mill. Some of the old track bed can still be seen at the Toledo
air strip, which is visible through the old piling on the far side of
the
Yaquina. The air strip is 1,725 feet long, and accommodates single
engine
planes. An early resident of South Beach, Elsie Omlid, was a cook at
Camp
III. Three buildings on 4th Street were used as the US Army hospital
during
the war. The Omlids remained in South Beach following the war, and
their
children attended a school located west of Toby Murray Auto Body on
US-101.
Omlid recalls one of her daughters rode the jitney on a spur of the
railroad
to school. She remembers there was ferry service to Newport every hour.
People could ride free, but rigs cost $1.50. The Omlids ran a stage
coach
service for passengers and mail along the beach. At times winter storms
and high tides held them up. A post office, store, and tavern were
among
the first businesses in the area.
Harlan post office,
established
Mar. 3, 1890, was located near the junction of Spout and Elk creeks,
eight
miles southwest of Burnt Woods. Jas. R. Harlan was first postmaster of
this office, which closed to Eddyville on Feb. 23, 1968. Johnny Feagles
(1873-1963) was the first non-indian child born in Lincoln County’s
Harlan
area. His recollections of the early days include the terrain. The
Harlan
area was nearly all fern in the early days. There were lots of burnt
trees
and snags standing and some on the ground. All the trees and the brush
have grown up since he was a boy. When he was small, there were only a
few scattered trees here and there. The area was the scene of a forest
fire sometime back in history. But nobody knew exactly when it
happened,
including the Indians. Johnny Feagles remembers an abundance of cats
and
cougars in the area when he was a boy. There were also many deer. He
was
ten or 11 years old when he shot his first deer. Fishing was good in
those
days too. Salmon was abundant on the river in autumn. Feagles remembers
one party who caught 200 trout in just one day’s fishing. The advent of
good roads in the area brought people out in greater numbers. Now the
fish
are scarce in comparison. There weren’t any roads at all in the area
when
the first three squatters packed in to Harlan from Burnt Woods by
horse.
One of the first three settlers was Johnny Feagles’ father, Rbt. Lew
Feagles,
who moved into the Harlan area in 1872, having originated from
Missouri.
Nearby Feagles Creek is named for him. Johnny was one of four children.
His brother died in scarlet fever epidemic that swept the area. The
doctor
said the other children would have died had they arrived for help two
and
a half hours later. Johnny Feagles attended school only three months
out
of the year. He figures learned more in those three months of
concentrated
study than children learn in nine months of school today. The
curriculum
stuck strictly to the basics. The story of Rbt. Lew Feagles’ shooting
and
causing the death of his father-in-law, Morgan Lillard, has details
given
in the Jun. 1980 issue of the Corvallis Gazette-Times. Lillard had long
held a grudge against Feagles. He had threatened him often and was said
to have started the shooting. Feagles was building a fence on the
roadside
near the line between their places. That would have been in front of
the
Harlan Community Hall. Lillard’s Granddaughter, the late Ida Miller
Smouse,
said the trouble began when the two families had scarlet fever. During
Nov. and Dec. of 1877, Lillard’s Wife, Nancy, Jane Feagles’ daughter,
her
son Thms. and another young son, died and were buried on a hillside
above
Charley Mulkey’s large cedar barn. John Feagles, who was about four
years
old at the time, and his sister, were dangerously ill. A question
arises
as to how they could use a wagon on those hills. There were no bridges.
Riding horses would have been a serious undertaking. About 1920,
Maybelle
Allison and Houston Grant carried their small son to Corvallis on
horseback
and that was known to be a real task then. One of the smallest covered
bridges over Deer Creek near Big Elk River was used on the road to
Harlan.
Before the road was moved nearer the river, Deer Creek was a halfway
point
for picnics.34
Idaho Point is a prominent landmark on the south
side of Yaquina Bay about two miles southeast of Newport. In times past
it has been known both as Point Virtue and Hinton Point. Andrew L.
Porter,
a resident of the Yaquina Bay district since the 1860s, said in 1945
that
the point was named for one Hinton who settled there in the early days.
This was Rowland B. Hinton, a pioneer of 1846 who was a prominent
resident
near Monroe in Benton County. The name Idaho Point appears to have been
the result of a real estate venture but after WWII it became well
established.
Johnson post office,
named for an Indian Shaker couple, Sissy (1859-1931) and Jakie Johnson
(1859-1933), was at the Parmele place about half a mile up Drift Creek
from the mouth of the stream on the east side of Siletz Bay, and about
two miles north of Kernville. The office was established Mar. 11, 1899,
with Geo. S. Parmele (1853-1930) first and only postmaster. The office
was closed May 23, 1903, and what business there was turned over to
Kernville.
Sissy and Jakie Johnson, a local Native American couple, were well and
favorably known. Jakie Johnson is said to have been a Siletz Indian.
Sissy
Johnson, a Shasta from Northern California, bore the tribal markings of
three double lines tattooed on her chin. Among the Southern
Oregontribes,
adult women tattooed their chins with three vertical stripes and were
dubbed
the “One-Eleven Girls” by whites. The ancient Shasta had tattooed the
entire
chin, and while the Yakonan did not use face markings they tattooed
dots
on the wrists of their women for strength. Indians of the Willamette
Valley
(the closest to the Siletz on the east) did not use tattoos. A very
light-skinned
people, comparatively speaking, the Southern Oregon Chasta Costa women
also wore chin tatoos. This was not unlike the chin-tattooing tradition
of the ancient Libyans. In 1980, Harvard professor Berry Fell wrote:
“Those
Berbers who retained their ancient customs practiced chin-tattooing of
the women, who did not wear the veil even though they are now Moslems.
The men on the other hand often cover their head and face with a
scarf-like
cloth, showing only the eyes to strangers.” Indian women of Sissy
Johnson’s
period imitated non-indian dress habits and were especially fond of
hats,
shoes and colorful shirts. One news reporter said, “The Indian women
from
Siletz made an admirable appearance in their Sunday best.” He watched
the
two cultures collide “head on” as it were, however, when blue facial
tattoos
appeared atop 19th Century urban fashions. A more graceful blend
resulted
when Indian women completed their costumes with their own beautiful
basketry
hand bags. A friendly and outgoing woman, Sissy Johnson taught local
people
how to cook mussels and how to mix ashes and salt to make a cement to
patch
cracks and drafts in wood-burning stoves. The Johnsons held land by
patent
and part of the town of Taft is on property owned by the pair. Sissy
and
Jackie Johnson were influential Siletz Shaker missionaries and
ministers.
The Shaker Church, advocating strict morals, originated among Squaxin
Indians
at the upper end of Puget Sound on the Washington Coast. It made its
appearance
at the turn of the century on the Quinault Reservation which was
established
by executive order Sep. 22, 1866. The land on that reservation was not
especially desirable and never heavily settled. Many Indians preferred
to remain off the tract, fitting their way of life to that of whites
around
the bay, perhaps because both races were involved in the fishing
industry.
After the Chehalis Reservation was established by executive order of
Jul.
8, 1864, Washington superintendent of Indian affairs I. J. McKenny
sought
to bring onto that confine all nonreservation Chinook, Willapa Bay,
Chehalis,
and Cowlitz Indians. To hurry them along to what he hoped would be
their
new home, he ordered his agents to lure them with gifts of every kind
from
timber to trinkets. McKenny hoped that reservation life would gradually
eliminate among these unconfined Indians “bad habits,” the worst of
which,
to his thinking, were gambling, drinking, sorcery, head flattening, and
polygamy, all of which prevailed into the second half of the 19th
century.
About the same time as the Quinaults, the Willapa Bay Chinook also
embraced
the Shaker religion. Like many other messianic cults, the Shaker church
was a compound of native and Christian forms. Yet, in their working of
these ingredients, Shakers had created a unique system of belief and
behavior,
and refused to accept the status of an affiliate of the established
religions.
The Indian Shaker church developed inspiration and sanction of its own,
and evolved a pattern of internal development peculiarly its own.
Persecution
by outsiders had certain negative effects, but it also acted as a
powerful
stimulus for the consolidation and intensification of belief. The cult
underwent numerous changes since its inception in 1881. Its history is,
in fact, marked by constant flux of ritual and belief. In part, this
characteristic
was due to the fact that the movement had diffused through several
Indian
groups with quite different cultural backgrounds. There is, however, an
even more fundamental reason for the dynamic quality of the Shaker
religion.
Cult doctrine exhibited a remarkable tolerance toward individual
interpretation
and the extension of its forms and meanings. Private convictions, based
on alleged Supernatural sanctions called “teachings” or “gifts,” were
regarded
as the true sources of doctrine and procedure; and while conflicts of
personalities
and ideas inevitably resulted, the basic tenet granting the truth of
individual
inspiration was never questioned.37 The Johnsons, who are both buried
at
Paul Washington Cemetery on Government Hill in Siletz, were well and
favorably
known. Jakie’s mother, Susan Johnson, died Mar. 13, 1910, and is buried
at Taft Cemetery. The Johnsons operated a general store, once owned by
Parmele, for Nelson & Ray of Cloverdale, who built their
ocean-going
boat, Della. They built their large, two-story home on the hill east of
the store at a location near the present US-101 and Coast Avenue. They
rented rooms and served meals to travelers as there were no other
accommodations
available. Their estate included many farm buildings. Later, in 1909,
the
Mercer family built a home on the bluff facing the ocean just above the
store, and operated it as a hotel. In 1974, a new home replaced this
landmark.
In 1904, John W. Bones (1884-1970), homesteaded a claim on the Bayfront
adjoining the Johnson estate. On Jan. 22, 1906, Taft post office was
established
with Bones the first postmaster. The post office, named after the pres.
Wm. Howard Taft (1857-1930), was located on the north shore of Siletz
Bay
in the urban strip, which is now Lincoln City. Bones donated land for
the
cemetery located above Spanish Head and some time later the pioneers
collected
money to buy land for the cemetery. He sold his business in 1910 to Wm.
Dodson, who built a new general merchandise store a little farther back
from the waterfront. This building, after many renovations and
additions,
eventually became the Driftwood Nursing Home. The nursing home is no
longer
in operation but the building still stands.
Kernville post office was originally located on
the southwest bank of the Siletz, about a mile upstream from the
present
community. The post office was established in the same building in the
same building on Jul. 6, 1896, with John H. Kern first postmaster. The
office was discontinued Dec. 15, 1913, and re-established Dec. 14,
1920.
It was discontinued again Jan. 11, 1926, and reopened its doors for
service
on Jul. 26, 1928. On Oct. 31, 1957, the Kernville office became a rural
station of Taft, and on Dep. 25, 1965, it became a rural station of the
newly established Lincoln City. That office was discontinued Mar. 9,
1968.
Old Kernville, located about two miles above the present site of
Kernville,
was the site of the first commercial industry in North Lincoln County.
In 1896, when this part of the Coast Reservation was opened to white
settlement,
Danl. Kern was among the first to exploit the situation, when he built
a salmon cannery that employed Chinese labor. As established in 1885,
the
Siletz Reservation, a remnant of the Coast Reservation, covered more
than
one and a third million acres but as the non-indian population of
Oregon
increased the newcomers decided that there was too much valuable land
in
the hands of the natives. Though there were more than 2000 Indians on
the
reservation in 1867, war, famine and disease had reduced the number to
about 550 in 1887. By 1892, the allotments of the Siletz group covered
only 47,000 acres. In 1925, though the number of Indians had increased
the Siletz Agency was closed. John Fleming Wilson’s (1877-1922) novel,
The Land Claimers (1911), tells the story of men like the Kerns who
rushed
into the Siletz lands when they were thrown open to non-indian
settlement.
Cannery Mountain (1065') is on the south side of Siletz River about two
miles southeast of the present site of Kernville. This mountain is
about
south of and across the river from the site of the former Kern fish
cannery
and it was named on that account. Coyote Rock is on Siletz River, two
miles
above Kernville. To insure himself of a constant supply of salmon, so
the
Indian legend goes, Coyote attempted to dam the river here and was
partly
successful. In the autumn especially, large Chinook salmon wait here
for
the first rains before ascending to upriver spawning beds. Medicine
Rock
is on Siletz River six miles above Kernville. Native Americans believed
presents left on Medicine Rock near here would bring the giver good
luck.
The place was a familiar landmark to the pioneer travelers.
Lincoln City has been
a favorite spot for honeymooning couples for more than a century. In
1837,
traveling by horseback on the Old Elk Trail along the Salmon River,
missionary
Jason lee brought his bride, Anna Marie Pittman, together with Cyrus
Shepard
and his bride, and a guide, Joe Gervias. The two couples set up camp at
nearby Oceanlake and evangelized the Salmon River Indians. The Jason
Lee
Campsite can be seen at Oceanlake, at the north end of Lincoln City
near
Devil’s Lake. Lincoln City was placed on the map Dec. 8, 1964, when the
cities of Oceanlake, Delake and Taft and the unincorporated communities
of Cutler City and Nelscott voted to merge to form a new single
community.
Lincoln City post office, formerly known as Delake, was established
Sep.
25, 1965. The City of Oceanlake is a coast town of about 400 supported
by sportsmen and tourists. It is located west of Devils Lake on the
Oregon
Coast Highway. The name called attention to this position between the
lake
and the ocean. The post office, formerly known as Delake, was
established
Mar. 15, 1927, with Arthur C. Deuel first postmaster. The City of
Delake
was named for Devils Lake, near which it was located. Arthur C. Deuel,
postmaster at Delake in 1925, said that Delake was the name agreed upon
by himself and judge Frank L. Mann (1863-1956), a Lincoln County
resident,
because it was the way many of the Finnish people, who settled in the
area
as fishermen, pronounced Devils Lake. When the name of the original
post
office, established Jan. 11, 1924, was changed to Oceanlake, the site
was
moved a bit over a mile south. The original community then applied for
and received a new post office, which was established Mar. 15, 1927. In
1837, Methodist missionaries Jason Lee and Cyrus Sheppard, with their
brides
of one month, and guide Jos. Gervias, came over the Old Elk Trail and
camped
at the site of Oceanlake for a week. The honeymooners “cured themselves
of malaria and evangelized the Salmon River Indians.” So far as is
known,
they were the first vacationers on the Oregon Coast. The City of Taft
was
named for Wm. Howard Taft, 27th president of the US. The post office
was
established Jan. 22, 1906, and was named when Taft was secretary of
war.
John W. Bones was first postmaster, and is said to have suggested the
name.
The community of Cutler City, just south of Taft and on the east shore
of Siletz Bay, has had a remarkable development as a resort town. The
town
was named for Geo. Cutler, who acquired the property from Charley
DePoe,
a Siletz Indian, and developed the resort with several other nearby
communities
to form Lincoln City. The post office was established in 1930 with
Jacob
H. Boomer first postmaster. The Cutlers formerly lived near Dallas.
Cutler
died in 1913, and his wife in 1939. The community of Nelscott has
become
an important summer resort on the Oregon Coast Highway about two miles
north of Taft. A letter by Alma Anderson, published in the North
Lincoln
Coast Guard, May 4, 1939, indicates that the name was formed by
combining
parts of the names of Chas. P. Nelson and Dr. W. R. Scott, who opened
the
town site in Apr. 1926. The post office was established Aug. 2, 1929.
Nelson
died in Dec. 1946. On the beach at Nelscott, as elsewhere along the
Oregon
Coast, Japanese floats—colored glass balls, are frequently found. These
floats—used as net supports by oriental fishermen—are carried across
the
ocean by the Japanese current. They are prized by tourists for
decorative
purposes. A line of substantial cottages face the ocean here.
Linville post office,
located on Drift Creek, about seven miles northeast of Waldport and a
few
miles east of Bayview, was established May 26, 1896, with Rbt. W.
Linville
first postmaster. The office was discontinued on Apr. 15, 1915,
reestablished
Sep. 22, 1916, and permanently discontinued on Oct. 15, 1918.
Little Elk post
office,
established Jul. 14, 1868, was located on Yaquina River at the site of
present-day Eddyville. John L. Shipley was first postmaster of this
office,
named for Little Elk Creek, a stream near whose mouth the office was
situated.
The office was discontinued on Sep. 16, 172, and reestablished on Oct.
20, 1873. It was discontinued Mar. 13, 1888, and reestablished on May
31,
1892. The name of the office was changed to Eddyville on Oct. 7, 1893.
Early details of Little Elk have been compiled from a letter to Emma
Allphin
McBride, Feb. 1938, from Florence Mason; Rachel Ann Henkle Shipley
Kitson’s
interview with Fred Lockley 1937, and Branch V. Henkle Genealogy, page
359. Rachel (1846-? IA) and John L. Shipley (1840-? MO) moved to Little
Elk soon after their marriage. They were at Little Elk from 1864 to
1871.
John was postmaster of Little Elk, and kept the toll gate on the
Yaquina
Bay Wagon Road. The charge was 50 cents and 25 cents for a man on
horseback.
The Shipleys had five daughters and one son. Two of their
granddaughters
are the late Ethel Shipley Smith and Opal Shipley Smith of Toledo.
Their
sister, Florence Shipley Mason, married Sam Smith’s brother, Tom, of
Coos
Bay. Lumber for the Shipley house was hauled from Henkle Sawmill near
Philomath
to Summit the first day and it took another day to reach their home at
Little Elk. They lived for the most part on wild meat—deer, elk and
bear—and,
of course, “all the trout we could eat.” There was no graveyard at
Little
Elk: One man was buried above the grade on the hill. The Shipleys’
neighbors
were Charley Mayes, Pearl Bryant, and Ike Porter upriver, and Rooks,
Ridenour,
Mike Brannon, Mathias L. Trapp, and Benj. and Nelson Thorpe downriver.
McVays and Babers were across the river. The hills around Little Elk
were
bare with underbrush. In 1859, a company was organized to build a road.
Members of the road crew were: Dr. Bayley, A. B. Newton, Kit Abbey,
Jacob
Henkle, Geo. Mercer, Saml. McClain and Icabod Henkle. They blazed a
trail
so teams could go through to Pioneer City and Elk City, the head of
navigation
on the Yaquina. In 1872, col. T. Egenton Hogg, a Confederate soldier,
bought
the wagon road land for $25,000. The money was divided equally among
the
eight who had carried out the project. He agreed to maintain the road.
The tollgate was removed. Shipleys sold their land to Ezekiel Eddy for
$1400, who paid for It with silver dollars. Eddy had said, “I wouldn’t
a gi’en ten cents for the place if it hadn’t been for that orchard.”
Among
those who were held as slaves in Oregon were Louis A. Southworth, who
in
1855 purchased his freedom from his master in Polk County for $1000,
and
Reuben Shipley of Benton County. Reuben Shipley had been a slave in
Missouri,
according to Mark Phinney of Corvallis, who interviewed John B. Horner,
professor of history. His master, Rbt. Shipley, trusted him to a large
share in the training of his sons, whose mother had died, and he was
regarded
as almost one of the family. When Shipley decided to come to Oregon, he
promised Reuben his freedom if he would drive a team of oxen on the
road.
Reuben left a wife in Missouri who died before he could send money for
her. After he purchased his freedom, he was employed by Eldridge
Hartless,
who settled one mile south of Philomath in 1846. Hartless was quite
well-to-do
and had many cattle. In a few years Reuben had saved $1500, and with a
part of it he bought a grange where Mt. Union Cemetery and Mt. Union
School
are now located. Now col. Nathaniel Ford, who settled in Rickreall in
Polk
County in 1844, owned a young African American woman named Mary Jane.
Ford
allowed Reuben to marry this woman and take her to his farm. Then,
having
learned that Shipley had money, he came without knowledge to his
non-indian
friends, and made him believe that he must purchase his Fiance’s
freedom,
which he did for $700. Reuben and Mary Jane reared a large
family—Wallace,
Ella, Thms., Martha, Nellie and Edw.—on their 80 acre grange four miles
west of Corvallis. Reuben was industrious and Mary Jane was a splendid
housekeeper and the family entered into the life of the church and the
community without too much consideration of the question of social
equality.
When Wm. Wyatt, another pioneer spoke of the hill on Reuben Shipley’s
farm
as a likely place for a cemetery, Reuben agreed to give two acres for
that
purpose if he might be buried there. This two acres donated in 1861 was
the beginning of Mt. Union Cemetery where many of the pioneers of
Benton
County are buried. Reuben is there among them. According to Benton
County
Archives, page 18, he died in 1873 at the age of 74. His wife Mary Jane
lived in Benton County until 1880. In after years she married Alfred
Drake
and lived well into the third decade of the 20th century.
Logsden post office,
located on the Siletz, eight miles east of the town of Siletz, was
established
Jun. 11, 1921, with Wolverton C. Orton (1874-1963), first postmaster.
The
office was formerly known as Orton, and was established Jun. 27, 1914,
with Philip H. Fliting (1873-1938) first postmaster. The name of the
office
was changed to Logsden on Jun. 11, 1921. Hazel Schaffer, postmaster at
Logsden in Apr. 1927, reported that the place was named for an elderly
Indian who lived on the Siletz Reservation. There are several men with
the surname Logsden who are buried in pioneer cemeteries throughout the
Siletz area. Possibilities might include John, Jos. M. and Chas.
Logsden,
who are buried in the Logsden-Rock Creek Cemetery. During the spring of
1885, a hotel and store was started at Caledonia near Toledo as well as
the Chas. Logsden Sawmill, so it is most likely Logsden was named for
him.
Most of the burials in the area within the boundaries of the entrance
to
Moonshine Park above Logsden, east to the west side of Nash Mountain
and
west to Sam Creek are in private and small cemeteries, unmarked or lost
graves which have been verified through relatives, friends, published
obituaries,
death records or mortuary records, and known graves which are on
private
property. The location of the known graves has not been revealed here
due
to the problems experienced in recent years with vandalism of Indian
grave
sites. Rbt. T. Fieber, 60, and Dotti Martin, 60, currently of Otis were
arrested Jun. 9, 1999 on Idaho allegations of cruelty to animals. The
two
were taken into custody on Bannock County warrants out of Pocatello,
ID.
Fieber and Martin allegedly were charged in connection with the care
they
provided large exotic cats. Several of the animals escaped,
necessitating
that they be shot. Also, about 100 wolves were kept by the defendants
in
Idaho. The two were lodged in the Lincoln County Jail. Fieber at one
time
reared exotic animals at Logsden.
Lutgens post office,
located four miles south of Seal Rock on the north shore of Alsea Bay,
was established May 17, 1890, with Albert H. Lutgens first postmaster.
Numerous name changes mark the history of this post office as it moved
about Alsea Bay. Lutgens post office, formerly known as Collins, was
established
Jan. 31, 1875, with Matt. Brand first postmaster. This office, once
known
as Drift Wood, was named in honor of Geo. W. Collins, the first settler
in the Lower Alsea. Collins came in 1860 as Indian agent for the
subagency
of the Alsea Reservation. Formerly part of the Coast Reservation, which
by treaty with the Indians extended for 90 miles along the coast and
about
20 miles inland, Alsea Subagency near Yachats was established in 1856.
David D. Fagan’s History of Benton County records: “When the white man
began to settle in the Alsea district they found there the remnants of
three tribes: the ‘Alseas’ by the bay and on the coast, a people of
fishers;
the ‘Klickitats’ who hunted in the woods and over the mountains to the
south; and the ‘Drift Creek Indians’ whose homes were scattered through
the heavy timber round Table Mountain and on the streams leading
thereabouts,
to the east and northeast of Alsea. Though generally at enmity with
each
other yet there were times when, feuds laid aside, the hunting tribes
visited
their neighbors by the ocean in peace, bringing with them the spoils of
the chase to exchange for the sea fish and shell fish of the Alseas.
Then
fires were lighted and feasting and jollity went on day after day
together.”
The agency was closed in 1875 and Indians were forced to remove to
Siletz
so whites could settle here. Collins post office was discontinued Jun.
17, 1881. The name of the office was changed to Waldport on Feb. 23,
1882.
It was changed again to Lutgens on May 17, 1890, and to Stanford on
Jul.
29, 1893, with W. C. Shepard serving as postmaster, and was
discontinued
Jun. 21, 1897. The name of that office was changed to Nice on Apr. 24,
1917. Nice post office was named for Harry Nice, a prominent Alsea Bay
resident during the last half of the 19th century. Nora L. Strake was
the
first postmaster. The office was discontinued Nov. 15 1919.
Millville was sited in
1867, as the culmination of the Premier Steam Mill’s success. Located
on
Depot Slough, Premier Steam Mill was considered one of the best steam
sawmills
in Oregon, sawing 7000 and 8000 feet per day. According to Royal A.
Bensell
(1838-1921), the mill “had a lumber yard containing good saleable
lumber;
boats coming and going, loaded with lumber all the time. This is a
lively
place; some 15 hands employed.” Reports of daily lumber production
fluctuated
from 6000 to 10,000 feet over the next few years, with lumber selling
for
$15 per 1000 board feet in 1867. In 1868, the schooner T. Starr King
arrived
at the mouth of the slough to pick up 140,000 feet of lumber. A 20 ton
schooner was even being constructed at the mill in 1867. In 1869, the
mill
was employing five men and working 11 hours a day, although not without
danger, for Geo. R. Meggison nearly lost his hand the next year. The
mill
spawned other activities, as a “magnificent ball” was held in “a
spacious
building near the sawmill” as early as August 1866.
Morrison Station was
located on the Yaquina and the Southern Pacific Railway, about four
miles
west of Chitwood. The post office was established Aug. 29, 1894, with
Barney
Morrison (1827-1907) first postmaster. The name of the office was
changed
to Pioneer on Oct. 4, 1900. Pioneer post office, located on the Yaquina
near Pioneer Mountain, and about two miles north of Elk City, was
established
Oct. 4, 1900, Morrison continuing to serve as postmaster. The name
Pioneer
was selected because of the operations in that section of the Pioneer
Sandstone
Company. The covered bridge over the Yaquina was directly in front of
the
Pioneer post office. Maggie Bell Kleut prepared the mail sack at
Pioneer
post office. If there was no need to stop, she threw the sack and
caught
the incoming mail on the platform at back. The post office closed to
Elk
City on Aug. 31, 1929. The house burned while owned by Ethel McClaflin.
Several square nails were found in the ashes. The rock quarry can be
seen
through the alder trees. Margaret Attridge stood on the original road
from
Pioneer to Newport and took a picture of the quarry in 1984. In 1985,
the
location was still, owned by Dond Darlene Deardoff. Barney Morrison was
born Jun. 1, 1827 in Washington County, TN. He was married Apr. 1, 1846
to Zimma Stoner. The couple had six Girls and two boys. Of those living
in 1907 were Ruth Embree of Dallas, J. H. Morrison of Washington,
Chelsey
L. Morrison (1859-1940) of Pioneer, Tabitha Simpson and Josephine
Bevens.
Morrison died at his home at Pioneer, Sep. 24, 1907 at the age of 80
years,
three months and 24 days. The “good wife,” his obituary said, survived
him.
Nashville was named for
Wallis Nash (1837-1926), a native of Great Britain, who visited Oregon
in 1877, and came to this state to settle in 1879. He was prominently
identified
with various enterprises in Benton and Lincoln counties, including the
construction of the railroad between Corvallis and Yaquina Bay.
Nashville
was located on the Southern Pacific Railway, about seven road miles
northwest
of Wren. The post office was established Jun. 12, 1888, with Jennie C.
Curry first postmaster. On Jul. 31, 1958, the office became a rural
station
of Philomath, and was discontinued on Sep. 23, 1978. A prominent figure
in Oregon and one of Benton County’s foremost citizens of pioneer days,
Wallis Nash, passed away Sat. afternoon at the country house near
Nashville,
in Lincoln County. The remains are being brought to Corvallis today and
the funeral services will be held form the Episcopal church immediately
after the arrival of the funeral party. Internment is to be in the
Crystal
Lake Cemetery. Nash passed away Mar. 13, 1926. Nash was a native of
England
and was probably 90 years of age. He came to Oregon in 1877, passed two
years in Benton County and then returned to England. Nash then headed
an
English colony that came to Benton County. The men in the party were
here
to learning farming and the families settled on tracts over this
section.
Nash, himself, became interested in farming and planted the first vetch
sown in Benton County. Vetch at that time was recognized as tares, and
Nash won quite general criticism for his act. The seed was sown on land
that is now the personal site of the forestry building and gymnasium on
the OAC campus. With judge Stahan and judge M. L. Pipes, Nash helped
frame
the constitution of OAC and had it ratified by the legislature. Born
near
London, England, in 1837, Nash was educated at Mill Hill School and New
College, University of London, and then further for his profession of
lawyer,
finally becoming a senior member of Nash & Field, solicitors, of
London.
Always interested in new ventures, Nash secured Alex. Graham Bell’s
patent
rights to the telephone for England and the first message passed from
there
to Queen Victoria, at Osborne House. Other important projects of their
firm were the financial agreements for the first Atlantic cable for
Cyrus
Field and for a large Brazilian railroad, and Nash helped the framing
of
the first “limited liability” which passed by act of Parliament. Nash
later
met Colonel T. Egenton Hogg in London, a Southerner who was much
enthused
over the great possibilities of Oregon, and came with him to the new
country,
first in 1877 and returning in 1879. He was second vice-president of
the
Oregon Pacific Railway Company for many years. Nash was influential in
the construction of the Oregon Pacific Railway, from Yaquina City to
Mill
City, now a part of the Southern Pacific lines, and was legal advisor
for
the road and one of the promoters under the management of Colonel Hogg
and his brother, Billy Hoag. He was one of the first reagents of OAC,
serving
in the capacity of secretary. Later, for a brief time in the fall of
1898,
he acted as president of the board. His early connection with the
college
was at the time it was being turned over to the state and released from
church control. Nash’s home was for many years on the present campus,
He
and his family residing in the English mansion that stood in pioneer
days
on the site of Waldo Hall. The old English home was then the gathering
place and headquarters of the members of the English colony. Following
the years in Corvallis, where he secured large farming acreage, Nash
located
in Portland. He was for a time president of the board of trade in
Portland
and for many years was an editorial writer for the Oregon Journal and
the
Morning Oregonian. A writer of note, Nash was the authors of several
books
on Oregon, including Two years in Oregon. He was renowned as an English
scholar and was an accomplished pianist and recognized musician. He was
a barrister in England during his young manhood but his law practice in
Oregon was confined to brief periods in this city (Corvallis) and
Portland.
The little Lincoln County town (Nashville) near which Nash spent his
years
of retirement and where one or more of his books were written, receives
its name from the beloved citizen who had done so much towards the
development
of that section. He also was active in enlarging the CC and brought to
the school the late Geo. Coote, florist, and other men (and women) who
were prominent in the school. Nash was instrumental in establishing the
Sanitation & Household Economy Department and bringing Dr. Margaret
Snell to the OAC. Nash was twice married, the second Ms. Nash passed
away
only two or three years ago. The children surviving include Dorthea
Nash,
prominent in musical circles, in Portland, and the only daughter. There
are four sons, Desmond, Percival, Rodney and Darwin Nash. Nash played
the
organ in the Corvallis Episcopal church and also read the service there
many years. In 1919, Wallis Nash wrote: “Bald Mountain and Grass
Mountain
look down on us [at Nashville] from the next ridge of the encircling
hills,
and each season, as sit passes from the gray brown of the winter fern
and
wild grass to the bright green of spring and the more sedate green of
summer,
has a beauty all its own.” The view from Nash Mountain, the highest
spot
on the Logsden-Nashville Road, about 800 feet above sea level, is one
of
the more striking in the Coast Range.
Nelscott has become an
important summer resort on US-10 about two miles north of Taft. A
letter
by Alma Anderson, published in the North Lincoln Coast Guard, May 4,
1939,
indicates that the name was formed by combining parts of the names of
Chas.
P. Nelson and Dr. W. G. Scott, who opened the town site in Apr. 1926.
The
post office was established Aug. 2, 1929 with Nelson serving as first
postmaster.
Nelson died in Dec. 1946. On Dec. 8, 1964, the town voted to become a
part
of a new community to be called Lincoln City, and the post office
closed
to the newly created town on Sep. 24, 1965. On the beach at Nelscott,
as
elsewhere along the Oregon Coast, Japanese floats—colored glass balls,
are frequently found. These floats—used as net supports by Oriental
fishermen—are
carried across the ocean by the Japanese current. They are prized by
tourists
for decorative purposes. A line of substantial cottages face the ocean
here. North of Nelscott were the Elvin A. Thorpe and Harry Thorpe
homesteads.
They were platted in the 1920s and named, after the Roosevelt Military
Highway, Camp Roosevelt and Roosevelt-by-the-Sea. These tracts
subsequently
became part of the City of Delake.
Neotsu post office, at
the northern end of Devils Lake, was established Mar. 28, 1928, with
Frank
M. Hodges serving as first postmaster. The name is said to be an Indian
word meaning “evil water.” Geo. Davidson, in the Coast Pilot, 1998,
uses
the spelling Na-ah-so, but does not explain the word. Devils Lake has
been
referred to as me-sah’-chie-chuck, which is Chinook jargon for “evil
water.”
There are a number of Indian legends about Devils Lake. The Indians
believed
that in these waters lived powerful malign deities known as skookums
that
occasionally rose to the surface to attack men. When used in connection
with localities, the word skookum generally indicates a place haunted
by
an evil spirit, or god of the woods. It sometimes meant a place used as
a burial ground. In Clackamas County, Skookum Lake, about ten acres in
size and 20 feet deep, is located on the north slope of Thunder
Mountain,
between Toketee Falls and OR-230. It drains into Fish Creek, a
tributary
of Clackamas River, and is stocked with brook trout. The modern meaning
of the work skookum is quite different from the earlier connotation; it
can also mean “stout” or strong,” and a skookum chuck did not mean a
strong,
swift stream, but a place to stay away from. The word skookum has been
applied to various geographic features in Oregon. Indians near the
mouth
of Rogue River in Curry County built a fort or stockade on the south
bank
of the stream about 15 miles from the ocean. Non-indian settlers drove
the Indians out and took the fort. Skookumhouse Butte was named on
account
of stockade incident, and the word skookumhouse was also used by early
settlers to describe a jail. In contradistinction to a skookum, a hehe
was a good spirit and a hehe chuck was a fine place for games, races
and
other sports and festivities.
Newport is the
keystone
to the Pacific Northwest coast. The town spreads across a blunt ridged
peninsula between the Pacific Ocean and Yaquina Bay. Though the first
settler
arrived in 1855, it was several years before there was a village here.
Traders and fishermen were the first arrivals. Then the people of the
Willamette
Valley discovered it to be a delightful resort area and the Ocean
House,
built in 1866, and the Abbey House and Fountain House, opened in
1871—all
facing the bay—began to draw visitors who would take the five-day
coastal
voyage to San Francisco as a diversion. Others engaged in the
clam-digging
and crabbing that still attract many. This section remains the
commercial
center of town, which flourished in the 1890s when Yaquina Bay ships
carried
away the products brought across the range from the Willamette Valley
on
the old Oregon Pacific Railway. In 1873, the trip form Corvallis took
from
early morning till dusk at night by stage (drawn by four horses,
changed
at noon for a fresh double team) which bumped and climbed over the 49
miles
to Elk City where the mail boat waited for the 25 mile trip down the
river
and bay to Newport; leaving the next morning on the first of the ebb
tide.
Twelve miles down, the boat stopped at Toledo, then at Oneatta, and
finally
at Newport, at a rickety wharf in front of Bay View Hotel (latter
renamed
the Abbey). At the other end of town was Ocean House, owned by Mary
Craigie
(1848-1933) and Saml. Case, which is the Coast Guard station now. The
Portrait
And Biographical Record Of 1904, say that Mary Case “is proprietor of
the
Ocean House at Newport, Oregon, which is famous for miles around, and
has
a commanding view over the bar end and far out to sea.” Mary Craigie
Case
(1848-1933) ran the resort after her husband died in 1897. Saml. Case
had
built the health resort, which was a two-story building with 25 rooms
on
eight acres, on Yaquina Bay in the late 1860s and early 1870s. A mother
of six, Case was a native of Boise City, ID, and the daughter of a
Scotsman
who emigrated to the US when he was 21 and helped build the fort at
Boise
City. Case was a “faithful attendant and active member of the Episcopal
Church,” according to the record, and was “among the most businesslike
and popular Ladies in Newport.” In between were four saloons, a store,
over which was a hall used for dances, political meetings, and—more
rarely—church
services whenever a minister of the gospel happened along. Near the
sand
path up the hill to the beach of land occupied by the Ocean House, took
a building quite imposing when compared to the rest of the town. Lucy
Blue
wrote that “at that time the property was owned jointly by Saml. Case
and
Dr. Jas. R. Bayley, the latter a physician in Corvallis. The 1885
History
of Benton County, Oregon says that Dr. Bayley “was born in Clark
County,
OH, 1918. He began his medical studies in 1841, and graduated from Ohio
Medical College in 1884. He practiced medicine for four years in
Springfield,
OH before relocating in Cincinnati, where he enjoyed a successful
practice
for seven years. In 1852, Bayley marred Elizabeth Harpole of Green
County,
OH. The couple moved to Oregon in 1855, first locating in Polk County.
In 1857, Bayley moved to Corvallis where he opened an office in
connection
with his pharmaceutical business. He was a member of the Territorial
Council
in 1856 and again in 1857. He was elected Benton County judge on two
occasions.
Bayley was also a state senator from Benton County in 1866 and again in
1868, and was appointed supervisor of internal revenue in 1869, and
office
he held until 1873. Afterwards, he devoted himself to his medical
practice
in Corvallis, Newport and the Yaquina Bay region, where he spent his
summers
and owned valuable property. The Bayleys also owned a beautiful home in
Corvallis. Bayley was a 32nd degree Mason and grand high priest and
grand
master of the Masonic jurisdiction of Oregon and had been a prominent
Odd
Fellow.” Case and Bayley also owned the whole town site of Newport
except
the few lots that had been sold and built upon along the shore for the
space of two blocks. The town site was laid out by Case in 1873 and
named
by him for Newport, Rhode Island, where he lived at one time. The Ocean
House was also named for the famous old hotel of that name at the
eastern
resort.” About 1885, the railroad came to Yaquina City, then the ferry
went from Yaquina City to Newport, and valley residents began coming to
Newport for the summer. For the Fourth of July, 1885, the Oregon
Pacific
Railway announced the first of its grand excursions from Corvallis to
the
coast. At 7am on the morning of the 4th, the trip started with the
Little
Corvallis heading a train of flatcars each of which had been fitted
with
railings and plank benches running lengthwise. About 70 passengers
climbed
aboard for the adventure, and they were not disappointed. In the
spring,
weeds flourished in Oregon, and since the tunnel had burned, few trains
had run over the track. Between the ties and the rails, the weeds grew
waist high and the Little Corvallis had trouble bucking its way through
them. The sun poured down, and a light breeze swept the cars, yet the
passengers
did not complain. At the burned-out tunnel, everyone unloaded and
walked
over the road around the blockade to take another train waiting on the
far side; a train like the first, with benches on flatcars, but drawn
by
one of the heavier Rogers engines. Still all went merrily, the only
disaster
coming when vice-president Wallis Nash had his hat blown off. At
Yaquina
City, a band tootled welcome, and the excursionists scrambled onto
steamboats
for the trip to Newport. “Amid the noise and confusion, the whistling
of
opposition boats and the sight of the ocean steamer Yaquina might
easily
imagine himself on the San Francisco docks,” the editor of the
Corvallis
Gazette exclaimed. Daily round trips were made from Albany to Yaquina
City,
and then by the old tug Newport on to the Newport Bayfront. In winter,
if the Bay was rough, passengers sat in the engine room. No one ever
seemed
to get seasick. Front-page news in 1957 was the purchase of the Gilmore
Hotel in Newport by Donald L. Young of Portland from Cecile Gilmore
(1883-1962),
owner and proprietor since 1920—37 years. Gilmore bought the hotel with
her husband, Peter (1877-1929), in 1920. They operated the hotel
together
until 1929, when Peter G. Gilmore (1877-1929) passed away. Cecile
Gilmore
then became the sole proprietor of the hotel. The couple moved to the
area
in 1915 and started a dry goods store, which they then sold. They lived
on a 5-acre tract for a short time before buying the hotel in 1920,
which
was described as a “landmark for many years on that section of the
coast.”
The hotel stood on the site of the present-day Sylvia Beach Hotel in
Nye
Beach. Gilmore, who is buried alongside her husband at Eureka Cemetery
in Newport, retired from active business after selling her hotel. The
arrival
of the Newport on the Bayfront was greeted by a band; Peter Gilmore
from
the Gilmore Hotel, Elizabeth Schollenburg (1851-1938) of the Grand
Rooms,
and others, ballyhooing for their hotels, each trying to drown out the
others. In A Lawyer’s Life On Two Continents, Wallis Nash wrote of his
excursion to Newport: “All the members of our little expedition made
the
trip to Yaquina Bay, and gazed out to and over the Pacific on the
sunset
of our arrival at the infant settlement of Newport at the mouth of the
estuary. There were, even then, two little hotels, one on the bluff
above,
other on the street facing the wharf at which the boats of the settlers
on the shores of the bay were tied up. Beside the Abbey House stood the
one dark little general store, to supply the little community.” In the
dining room of The Abbey on the Bayfront was a big round dining table
that
would seat 20 to 25 people. It was in the middle of the room loaded
with
big platters of cracked crab and buckets of steamed clams, with drawn
butter,
lemon and catsup for dunking. There were finger bowls, out of which
Margaret
Peterson and her sister drank, much to the embarrassment of her
grandparents.
Later, Peterson’s father, Vivian Cartwright, and his mother had the Bon
Bon Confectionery on Front Street. Some time between 1900 and 1908,
Vivian
Cartwright, Rich. Chatterton and Jack Fogarty, father of Frances
Burdett,
decided Newport should have electricity, so they built three windmills
on the sandhills, and hooked up the necessary machinery to generate
current.
Newport then had lights from 7am to 10pm. Newport could also have a
movie
with electricity. The movie house was lighted by carbide lamps to the
electricity
could be used to run the movie machine. The single feature movies were
shown about where Mark’s Market Basket is now. John Fleming Wilson
(1877-1922),
the author of numerous books, lived here for about three years after
his
marriage in 1907. Mariner, schoolteacher, and newspaper reporter, he
was
able to leave $90,000 earned by writing stories and novels, some of
which
were based on material gathered in the Yaquina Bay district. For 22
years
(1962-1984), on the location of what is now the Circle K, was a market
well-known to locals as Mark’s Market Basket. It’s proprietor, Mark
Collson,
first started a grocery store on the Bayfront in a building across the
street from what is now the public dock at the Abbey Street Pier.
Before
he took over in 1952, it was called Ernie’s Market. Collson, whose son
is now mayor of Newport (1996), operated at the Circle K location until
1984. Mark’s Market Basket also included what is now Rickert Gallery.
On
Jan. 1, 1908, there was a disastrous fire on the waterfront, burning
from
about Mark’s Market Basket to the corner at Fall Street. “Lover’s
Lane,”
also called Zig-Zag, commenced down the road from the Coast Guard
Station,
wound up the bank through the most beautiful rhodies, ferns and wild
flowers
to the top of the hill to the Midway Theater, which was “uptown” in
those
days, where the Newport post office (now the Gateway Cafe) was located.
The biggest attraction was the arrival of the mail. It came in about
5pm
and the line was way up the sidewalk waiting for the distribution. At
the
present location of Log Cabin Court was Log Cabin Inn, with a beautiful
garden, small stream and tiny bridge. Special parties were held there.
On the Fourth of July, the building and garden were lit by Japanese
lanterns
and the best homemade ice-cream and cookies were served. Behind the
city
hall was a tennis court, and long before that there was a lake in front
of Bateman’s Funeral Home and back of the city hall. At the southern
edge
of Newport, the Coast Highway passes through a landscaped park, then
crosses
the Yaquina Bay Bridge, a graceful cantilever structure, completed in
1936.
The bridge deck, rising to 138 feet above the channel water, is high
enough
to permit the passage of ocean-going craft. After the completion of the
bridge, the “top of the hill” and along the highway became the main
part
of town. The tourists came and went overnight, and didn’t come to stay
the months of July and August in the old days. Legend has it that four
valuable diamonds were thrown into Yaquina Bay in 1915. A Portland
resident
who died that year stipulated in his will that these stones, which had
belonged to his mother, should be thrown into the water to keep them
forever
from others. The view of the bay at sunset, when the fishing fleet
rides
to anchor, is particularly attractive. This bay is also the anchorage
for
the deep-sea fishing boats that carry visitors across the bar to fish
and
to watch for the porpoises, sea lions, and whales occasionally seen
offshore.
Newport is located on the north shore of Yaquina Bay. The post office
was
established Jul. 2, 1868, with Saml. Case was first postmaster. This is
the first post office on Yaquina Bay, and one of the first in what was
later to become Lincoln County. The town was incorporated on Nov. 4,
1882.
The council’s first action as recorded in the minutes of its inaugural
meeting Nov. 4, 1882, was consideration and adoption of Ord. No. 1,
Article
I, of which read as follows: “No person shall be permitted to sell
spirituous
liquors within the corporate limits of said city in less quantities
than
one quart without having obtained a license from the city council for
that
purpose.” Newport’s postmaster in 1939 was John Franklin Paden. Paden,
the son of Lora Adams and John T. Paden, was born in El Dorado, OK,
Dec.
28, 1903. The music man of the Central Oregon Coast, Paden served as
director
of Newport City Band from 1931 to 1934, and the American Legion Drum
and
Bugle Corps from 1936 to 1940. Paden married Maude Thames of
Smithville,
Texas, Mar. 18, 1907. The father of a daughter, Joyce, and four sons,
J.
F. II, Alvin, Melvin, and Jas., Paden was chairman of the local Boy
Scouts
in 1914. The Lincoln County Historical Society (LCHS) has been
preserving
historic moments since 1948, when it for Yaquina Bay Lighthouse from
demolition.
Thanks to the Society’s research and restoration efforts, the
lighthouse
was nominated to the National Register of Historic Places. A thriving
membership
has kept the LCHS growing. Today the LCHS operates two full museums,
maintains
an extensive collection of artifacts and offers a fully equipped
research
library to the public. The Burrows House and Log Cabin museums (located
at 545 9th Street, Newport) showcase the historic moments that have
shaped
Lincoln County. Professionally designed exhibits tell of the area’s
Native
American traditions; the birth of a prosperous logging industry with
the
coming of WWI; the explosion of tourism with the completion of the
Roosevelt
Military Highway; the evolution of the country’s maritime industry.
Because
only a fraction of the Society’s collection can be displayed at one
time,
exhibits are constantly changing. The Society’s artifacts are preserved
in climate-controlled conditions monitored by staff trained in museum
science.
Because of its expert collections management, the Society has been
chosen
to house nationally recognized traveling exhibits. Thousands of
historic
photographs, news clippings, maps and other documents are available to
the public for research in the Burrows House. Society staff members
help
everyone from scholars to schoolchildren research towns, homes,
families
and heirlooms. Newport is now primarily a resort with a somewhat
Victorian
appearance in the older areas. Shell-fishing gives it some commercial
importance.
Crabs, clams, and oysters—the latter artificially planted to renew the
supply—are shipped inland. Oystering is done in flat-bottomed boats
with
the aid of long-handled tongs.
Newton, now known as
Elk City, is located on the Yaquina at the mouth of Elk Creek. It is
said
to have been the first settlement in what is now Lincoln County. Postal
records show that Newton post office was established in Jul. 14, 1868,
with Edwin Alden Abbey, first postmaster. Abbey, who was fondly called
Kit, was born in New York in 1824. Marshall Winchester Simpson became
postmaster
in Nov. 1869. He was out of the office for a few years, but held the
position
again on Nov. 23, 1888, when the name of the office was changed from
Newton
to Elk City. It is said that he instigated the change. Statements to
the
effect that Elk City was named by pioneer settlers about 1865 do not
agree
with the records unless the locality and the post office went by
different
names. This has happened at a number of places in Oregon.
Nice post office,
formerly
Lutgens, was established Apr. 24, 1917. The office was discontinued
Nov.
15 1919. It was named for capt. Henry “Harry” Nice (1837-1921), a
prominent
Alsea Bay resident during the last half of the 19th century. Nora L.
Strake
was the first postmaster.54
Nortons is located on the Southern Pacific
Railway,
about six miles west of Nashville. The post office was established Apr.
6, 1895, with Jas. S. Huntington first postmaster. The office closed to
Eddyville on Jan. 15, 1934. The community was originally called Norton,
but postal authorities did not accept this name as there was another
office
in Clackamas County of the same name so the “s” was added. In former
times,
Nortons, named for Lucius Norton who owned a ranch nearby, was a
station
on the Corvallis & Yaquina Bay Railroad. A weathered and decrepit
structure
that once housed the general store and post office stands by the road
site.
Nortons, like Elk City and Hoskins, is another ghost village in
appearance.
The first military wagon road linking the Summit-Nashville area to the
Corvallis-Elk City wagon route was built in the 1860s. It was graveled
from Summit to Nashville around 1930, and paved in 1947. In 1910, Carey
Peck, the community blacksmith, carved a new road along the
right-of-way
to the Clem Road to Burnt Woods on Highway 20. He was paid with county
script, as was customary in that day, and had considerable difficulty
cashing
them for provisions. The road now graveled, opened up a new artery of
travel
to and from the area, which throughout the years has helped the
Nashville-Summit
residents considerably. Around 1912, when Jim Highland brought the
first
automobile to the Nashville area, the family’s team of carriage and
horses,
the reliable pack-horse and the plodding draft teams obtained their
first
glimpse of their retributive justice. In 1903, the first store in
Nashville
was owned by Bruce Hamar. It served as a depot and waiting station
along
the route of the early railroad. At that time, the store was also the
post
office. When another large portion of the original Siletz Reservation
was
thrown open to homesteading in 1895, the Nashville-Summit area offered
the quickest and easiest route to the virgin timberlands of the
northeastern
part of the county. Logging and lumbering were carried on in a small
way
with an ox team. Manpower predominated. The first donkey engines were
used
by Wallace A. Moody of Parkdale. In 1895, his father helped Sim Benson,
who sold his oxen and bought enough donkey engines to run his logging
operations
and set up the first logging camp. In 1927, Ted Harmsen came to the
Summit
area and herded 2000 Angora goats over the hills. In 1936, Harmsen
&
Hall built their first sawmill on the Earl Davis ranch. In 1945,
Harmsen
erected a sawmill at Nashville, which burned down in Jun. 1949. In
1950,
a new electric mill was constructed with a planer added to its
equipment
in 1954. The first lumber was hand stacked, then shipped to Eugene.
Harmsen
received $8 to $9 per thousand board feet. In 1913, early telephone
communication
in the area was first attempted on a neighborhood basis. In 1977, Clara
Howard Mears of Lake Mills, Wisconsin, wrote: “The coming of the
telephone
was quite an exciting event there as elsewhere. I remember my brother
coming
home from town and telling us that he heard mr. Mansfield speaking from
his John Creek office to some one in a store at Lake Mills as plainly
as
he ever heard him when present. My nephew and I rigged up a telephone
with
two tin cans and a wire over which we talked.” The switchboard was
located
at Summit, and extended through Nashville to the Chapman place. Rodney
L. Nash, son of Wallis Nash, made the first call on his phone. It was
Jul.
16, 1913, the day his daughter, Mary Lou, was born. The doctor was
summoned
to assist in the delivery. However, this line was not kept in repair,
and
for many years the closest telephone service was at Summit. On Nov. 7,
1954, Nashville was connected with a modern dial system under the
Pioneer
Telephone Company. In Oct. 1944, Nashville Grange No. 903 was organized
by Jesse Reeder. Clyde Hamar was the first master of the Grange. Gladys
Hinshaw was its first Secretary. In early 1932, the Nashville Gas &
Oil Company drilled an extraordinary oil well on the outskirts of the
town.
In Mar. 1923, the well was drilled to a depth of 480 feet. Small
quantities
of gas were present. The well was abandoned a short time later, and
only
recently have options been renewed, and new incorporation papers filled
in the amount of $250,000. Mary Lou Nash Commons was the daughter of
Faith
Lister and R. L. Nash, and the Granddaughter of railroad baron Wallis
Nash.
In 1963, she was managing the family’s fine cattle ranch. That year,
she
hosted a potluck picnic for the Salem DAR, who spent the day learning
about
the Nash family and their contributions to Lincoln County. Singing
“Home
On The Range,” was almost too much for Mary Lou, who was devoted to her
many pets. Her parents were selling the ranch her grandfather, acquired
during the building of the railroad. The move was in keeping with the
health
and age of her parents. Hamar, or Yaquina Lake, three miles northwest
of
Nashville, is a point of interest. In 1887, the lake was formed by a
slide
which blocked the course of the Little Yaquina River on land formerly
owned
by Chas. Hamar during his absence. In past years, the state Fish &
Game Commission has stocked the lake with fingerling trout. On Apr. 3,
1914, Peter Meads (1820-1914 KY), who once owned the place at Nortons
now
owned by Harry Porter, died at Walla Walla on Monday. His obituary said
that “Meads and his family homesteaded a place at Nortons in the spring
of 1867 and lived on it some 20 years when he sold out and moved to
Walla
Walla, where he has lived until his death. Meads was well-known to the
early settlers of Yaquina Bay. He used to team over the roads hauling
oysters
and clams from Elk City to Corvallis. This was done in the worst part
of
winter and over the muddiest kind of roads. Meads never stopped for
rain
or mud. He had a nice home at Walla Walla and enjoyed life in his later
days. He was 84 years old. His wife, Rebecca Jane Carter (1841-1911 MO)
died about three years ago. She was a sister of Siletz Reservation
physician
Franklin Marion Carter of Elk City. The Meads are survived by the
couple’s
children: Wm. H. (1860-? OR), Olive A. (1862-? OR), Solomon S. (1864-?
OR), Elijah F. (1866-? OR), and John S. (1869-? OR). So one by one the
pioneers are passing away leaving behind them a name of honor, courage,
perseverance and hospitality. May they rest in peace.” Nortons Cemetery
is located near Homer Edwards’ farm not far from Eddyville. Evelyn
Parry
visited Nortons Cemetery in 1975, and says there is a marker
identifying
the site of the first schoolhouse in Lincoln County under a large fir
tree.
The grave sites are about a quarter of a mile further on toward
Eddyville.
The cemetery is about one block from the road. A big tree covers the
fenced
graveyard. The property is owned by Lincoln County. A Jul. 1898 issue
of
the Lincoln County Leader, states that H. S. Porter thanks those who
helped
erect the memorial stone commemorating his mother. “Those who helped me
knew of no other graves here,” he said: “Elizabeth Lee Porter’s
(1831-1898)
obituary states that she was born in Harrison County, OH on Nov. 4,
1831.
She was a graduate of Wheeling College, PA. In Nov. 1893, she married
Andrew
J. Porter (1827-1881), who was a surveyor. The couple moved to Oregon
in
1864 and homesteaded at Nortons in 1865. Their home was at one time an
overnight stopping place for travelers.” Porter first began educating
children
in her home. Lincoln County’s first schoolhouse was built in 1866, and
Porter was the first teacher. She died at Nortons in 1898. The
inscription
on the memorial stone reads: “At Rest: Porter, Andrew J (1827-1881);
Porter,
Elizabeth Lee (1831-1898); First School in Lincoln County, AD 1866;
Elizabeth
Lee Porter— Teacher.
Nye Beach, one of the
oldest and finest beachside communities on the Oregon Coast, was once a
separate community. John T. Nye (1832-1911) was one of the earliest
settlers
at Yaquina Bay. He took a homestead along the beach and was
instrumental
in the development of the area. His property is now occupied by motels
and houses facing the beach in front of Newport.56 Since the late
1800s,
people have been coming to this favored place to seek solace in and
alongside
the Pacific Ocean. John T. Nye was one of the earliest settlers at
Yaquina
Bay. He took up a homestead along the beach and was instrumental in the
development of the area. His property is now occupied by motels and
houses
facing the beach in front of Newport. Nye was just 13 years old when
his
father, Michael Nye, died in 1844. John became an apprentice tailor,
presumably
to help support the family. He continued working in this trade in his
home
state of Ohio until 1859, when he crossed the plains with a team of
oxen.
At Pikes Peak, County, he opted to turn around and retrace his steps to
Atchison, KA. During his second attempt on the trail, he stopped in
Salt
lake City, UT, where he traded his oxen for horses. Completing the trip
without major incident, Nye spent the winter of 1860 in Corvallis. The
following spring he left for the Rock Creek mines in British Columbia.
He spent a few months mining before returning to Corvallis, where he
remained
for about six months before enlisting in the Union Army as a tailor in
Company A, First Oregon Volunteers. In his 19 months of service, he was
stationed at Fort Vancouver, Fort Yamhill and Camp Polk. After being
mustered
out of the service in 1863, he returned to Corvallis to work as a
general
store clerk for nearly two years. He also worked on the construction of
what eventually became Highway 20. In 1865, Nye headed west and took
out
a claim on the land we know today as Nye Beach. His cabin sat at the
present-day
intersection of Brook and Third streets. Nye’s obituary states this was
the second house to be built in Newport. Apparently he did some mining
in Nye Creek, which ran right next to his cabin. According to a
biographical
sketch written on Nye in 1904, he was a fulltime resident of Nye Beach
for must 19 months while he “proved up” on his claim Nye retained
ownership
of his claim, however, until 1880, when he sold it “at a large profit”
to developer Sam Irvin. In 1871, Nye traveled to Indiana to marry Olive
Kist, a native of Ohio. When Nye platted Nye Beach, renamed Olive
Street
for her. When the newly weds returned from Indiana, they settled down
in
Corvallis, where they remained for about three years. In 1874, the Nyes
returned to this area when they took up another 160-acre homestead,
this
time east of Newport, near the present-day intersection of Fruitvale
Road
and Highway 20. Together John and Olive farmed their land and raised
eight
children. John Nye spent the rest of his days on his Fruitvale ranch.
He
died in 1911. Olive Kist Nye (1849-1936) lived out her days on the
nearby
farm owned by her son, Andrew. Frail and aging, she seldom made a trip
to Newport. On a rare visit in 1925, she returned to the site of the
Nye
cabin. She told a newspaper reporter, “While the city is very nice...
you
have no idea what a beautiful sight this little valley was in the old
days.”
Olive Kist Nye died in 1936 at age 87.59 In 1893, Fall Street was
completed.
It was then a wood plank road which covered the area from the Bayfront
to Nye Beach. At this time, Nye Beach and Bayfront were separate
communities,
each with its own identity. This walkway was replaced by a road two
years
later as Newport began to grow.61 In 1975, Wave Leslie Belt and
Margaret
Peterson wrote that “there were plank roads laid by the government
engineer
who was building Cape Foulweather Lighthouse. One went over the hill to
Nye Beach where supplies for the lighthouse were taken to Jump-Off Joe
and along the beach to Agate Beach and Yaquina Head Lighthouse. Nye
Beach
was one old tumbled-down shanty marking the ground that had been taken
some years ago by one Johnny Nye, and abandoned for a claim further
inland
that was more of a success as a farm.” Most of the cottages were built
in the prosperous years between 1910 and 1930. Wives and children would
spend the summer in the cottages: their husbands and fathers joining
them
on weekends. In 1902, Dr. Henry J. Minthorn of Newberg, uncle of pres.
Herbert C. Hoover (1874-1964), built a sanitarium with hot sea water
baths
just north of what is now the Sylvia Beach Hotel. He donated the land
for
the public bathhouse, now the Yaquina Art Center, which was financed
and
built by the Nye Beach Association in 1913. On Feb. 16, 1945, Nye Beach
post office was as a contract station of Newport. The office was
discontinued
Jan. 31, 1950.64 Belt and Peterson commented that “in the evenings a
crowd
of young people gathered at the skating rink or at the Nye Beach
Natatorium
where there was a swimming and dance hall. There were bathhouses on the
beach at Nye Beach at the turn-around, before the “Nat” was built.
People
went in these, changed to swimming clothes, went bathing in the surf,
came
out, washed off the sand in the bath house, dressed, and went on their
way.” Nye Beach became a literary center for the study of the sciences,
especially geology, biology and botany. Students could attend summer
college
classes in a specially built auditorium. One of the most popular spots
on the coast was the Natatorium, a large building with an indoor pool
located
at the foot of Beach Drive, the site of the present pedestrian plaza at
the turnaround overlooking the ocean. The “Nat” had a dance floor and
over
the years also featured bowling, boxing matches, miniature golf and
movies.
Newport’s first movie theater was just up the street. Today, as a
century
ago, this colorful seaside community provides the same charm and beauty
in a warm, friendly village of shops, services, guest accommodations,
restaurants
and art galleries.
Ocean View post office
was established Nov. 5, 1887 and discontinued Sep. 27, 1893. It was
re-established
Apr. 27, 1904 and discontinued again Oct. 13, 1916. The office was
located
about a mile north of Yachats, and named descriptively. Geo. M. Starr
(1817-?
OH), was the first postmaster.
Oceanlake is a coast
town of about 400 supported by sportsmen and tourists. It is located
west
of Devils Lake on the Oregon Coast Highway. The name called attention
to
this position between the lake and the ocean. On Dec. 8, 1964, the
cities
of Oceanlake, Delake, and Taft and the unincorporated communities of
Cutler
City and Nelscott voted to combine to form a single new community,
Lincoln
City. Oceanlake post office, formerly known as Delake, was established
Mar. 15, 1927, with Arthur C. Deuel first postmaster. The name of the
office
was changed to Lincoln City Sep. 25, 1965.68 While stationed at Siletz,
fr. Chas. Raymond founded a small resort town on 80 acres of land,
between
Devils Lake and the Pacific Ocean, a little to the north of D River. He
gave It his own family name, but It was afterwards known as Oceanlake.
In 1966, it become part of Lincoln City. Although this shore of the
Pacific
is not marked by any great gulfs or peninsulas, it is punctuated many
lofty
headlands—great spurs of the Coastal Range, which sweep down beyond the
beaches and overshadow the shallows with spectacular cliffs and strew
them
with tall