

I offer thanks to my
friends,
relatives, and ancestors whose strength of purpose
led me to my own. A
special
thanks to my co-author,
Rev. Marilyn A. Riedel,
for her deep love and dedication to me and this project.
Without her tireless
effort and selfless interest,
this liberating history
of Oregon would never have been written.
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Chapter 27: Oyster City
James Craigie (1813-1895), Presbyterian,
humanitarian and fur trader, was born August 11, 1813, in Rousay,
Orkney
Islands, Scotland, and died at Ocean House, the home of his daughter,
Mary
Craigie Case, September 29, 1895, in Newport, Oregon.
Craigie came to America on board the Prince
Albert in 1835. At the age of 22, he went to work for the Hudson's Bay
Company.
Capt.
Nathaniel J. Wyeth had built a trading post where the Portneuf
River flows into the Snake River in 1834, which he named Fort Hall. The
Rev. Jason Lee (1803-1845), a Methodist missionary, preached a
sermon there to Wyeth's men and the fur traders, while Lee was on his
way
to establish his mission in the Willamette Valley.
When Wyeth sold Fort Hall to Dr.
John McLoughlin, James Craigie was sent there.
John
Minto (1822-1915) of Salem, who was a pioneer of 1844, spent
the
winter here in the Ocean House in Newport some years ago. He told Mary
Case that the first time he met her father was at Fort
Hall in the autumn of 1844. Craigie was in charge of Fort Hall
at the time, and sold Minto some flour. Minto drove an ox team across
the
plains for R. Q. Morrison for his board, and later he married Martha
Morrison,
R. Q.'s daughter.
Craigie helped build a trading post at the
mouth of Boise River known as Fort Boise. He stayed there until 1852,
when
he moved to Waldo Hills, where he lived for six years and where he
renewed
his acquaintance with John Minto.
In 1845, Craigie married Indian Princes
Mary Ann, the daughter of Bannock Chief Toya
Pampe Boo. The name means "Mountain Head Road," and the
non-indians
often called him "Bloody Chief."
In their book, The Women's West, feminist
historians Susan
Armitage and Elizabeth Jameson wrote it is significant that
the rituals for marriage à la facon du pays [according to the custom of the country] conforms more to Indian custom than to European. There were two basic steps to forming such a union. The first step was to secure the consent of the woman's relatives; it also appears that the wishes of the woman herself were respected, as there is ample evidence that Indian women actively sought for trade spouses. Once consent was secured, a bride price had then to be decided; this varied considerably among the tribes but could amount to several hundred dollars worth of trade goods. After these transactions, the couple were usually conducted ceremoniously to the post where they were now recognized as husband and wife. In the Canadian West, marriage àla facon du pays became the norm for Indian-white unions, being reinforced by mutual interest, tradition, and peer group pressure. Although ultimately "the custom of the country" was to be strongly denounced by the missionaries, it is significant that in 1867, when the legitimacy of the union between chief factor William Connally and his Cree wife was tried before a Canadian court, it was found to have constituted a lawful marriage. The judge declared a valid marriage existed because the wife had been married according to the customs and usages of her own people and because the consent of both parties, the essential element of "civilized marriage," had been proved by 28 years of repute, public acknowledgement, and cohabitation as husband and wife.
James and Princess Mary Ann were the
parents
of nine children—seven girls and two boys. Jane Craigie (Ms. Thomas
Ferr),
Rachel Craigie (Ms. George King) and Mary Craigie (Ms. Samuel Case)
still
survive.
The Craigie family moved to Yaquina Bay
in October 1866, after living six years on a donation land claim in
Waldo
Hills. A record has been found in Salem, Marion County, Oregon, of
their
regularized (i.e. Christian) marriage vows to substantiate their claim
to donation land and was without doubt a pleasure to Craigie who was a
staunch Presbyterian church member.
In their book, Writing The Range: Race
Class,
and Culture In the Women's West, Armitage and Jameson comment that in
the
1921 Oregon Supreme Court miscegenation case
decided after the death of Fred Paquet (a white
male), Ophelia Paquet (his Indian wife), lost control of her husband's
estate to her late husband's brother John (a white male), who
challenged
her for its control. The language of Oregon's miscegenation law was
broad:
it declared null and void marriages between "any white person" and "any
Negro, Chinese, or any person having more than one half Indian blood."
Under the provisions of this law, the Oregon Supreme Court declared the
Paquet's 30 year marriage invalid. To do so, the court dismissed
Paquet's
claim that the miscegenation statute denied Indians the same rights as
whites. Echoing state courts all over the country, the Oregon court
held
that the statute did not discriminate against Indians because, as the
judge
said, "It applies alike to all persons, either white, Negroes, Chinese,
Kanakas (Hawaiians), or Indians."
The elements of this decision—the primacy
of the issue of property, the tug-of-war between women of color and
their
white opponents for control of white men's estates, and the willingness
of courts to invalidate long-term marriages in proceedings not directly
related to the marriages themselves—were quite standard in
miscegenation
case law. The only unusual note in this decision was that, having
deprived
Ophelia Paquet of her inheritance, the court went out of its way to
express
"sympathy" for her, suggesting to the victorious John Paquet that
because
Ophelia had been "a good and faithful wife" to his brother "for more
than
30 years," he should consider offering her "a fair and reasonable
settlement."
The trip to Toledo was by horseback over
the old trail. The couple first lived on Olalla Slough. Then the family
moved to the spot by the dedication marker which is also near Mary Ann
Craigie's grave.
For a time, this home was a dinner stop
for the rowboat mail service to Elk City.
Princess Mary Ann died when the children
were small. Violet Updike said the older, married sisters took the
younger
girls into their homes, which included her late mother, Rachel Craigie
King.
Craigie cultivated soil at Fort
Boise with great difficulty because of weather conditions, but
he produced all the foods possible for his family, and, according to
Lincoln
County historian Steve Wyatt, he might even have been the first to
plant
Monterey cypress in the Yaquina Bay region.
James Craigie took a doctor or nurse's place
caring for their injuries, met wagon trains of Americans and guided
them
safely through the dangerous stretches, then furnished the fort's large
canoe for ferry. P. V. Crawford's journal, Journal of a Trip Across the
Plains: 1851, tells more about his train assistance.
Historian Wells says, "Craigie's fort was
a real haven. Fort Boise was famous for hospitality." Also summarized
as
"animated by a sense of Christian duty."
Lincoln County is most honored to be the
last resting place for this family, the James Craigies.
An Interview With Violet Updike

Photo Courtesy
of Del Hodges
Del: Tell me about your grandparents,
Mary
and James Craigie.
Violet: Both my dad and granddad were
naturalized
citizens. Grandpa Craigie came here when he was about 21 from the
Orkney
Islands off the coast of Scotland to work for the Hudson's
Bay Company. That was the habit of the Hudson's Bay Company to
recruit young men from there because there wasn't very much to do there
except fish, and they were rather poor.
So he came and he signed a contract of which
I have a copy. It shows he was a bonded slave. He made all of those
commitments
and he had to stay with them for the duration which I think was 20 or
25
years. They paid his passage and of course gave him the work he was
promised.
He was stationed at Fort Hall II in Idaho. Afterwards he assumed more
authority
and ran the place for a while. He worked up. He raised crops and sheep
besides his office work. When his term was up he left.
He had been at Fort Hall II during the 1840s
when people were going to Oregon Country (1542-1847) and thought he’d
like
to go there, too.
In the meantime, he married my grandmother,
Mary, an Indian princess of the Shoshone tribe, and that was long
before
reservations, so he married her right from her father's home. I don't
know
anything about that at all, but I imagine he married her by the
Shoshone
ritual. It could have been he was married by Roman Catholics because
they
were coming through there at the time. Very few of the Protestant
ministers
were coming through until the Methodists who came a little bit later.
Later
on, they had to remarry in order to take out donation land claims in
Salem.
So Grandpa Craigie took his family directly
to Salem. They had a friend there, John Minto. He and his wife and his
oldest son had donation land claims in the south of Salem. It used to
be
wonderful fruit country. She got her 360 acres and he got his 360
acres.
The son and his wife also got theirs. They all worked hard and proved
up
on their land.
But in the meantime he contracted asthma
or something of that sort, and he thought it was the dampness there.
His
health began to fail, so he thought he should get back to high country.
He went to Walla Walla, and that’s where my mother was born in 1859. My
mother, Rachel Craigie (1859-1954), was second from the youngest. My
aunt,
Cecilia Craigie (1866-?) was born there just before we moved to Lincoln
County. While the family was in Walla Walla, he put my aunt, Jane
(1851-?
Idaho Territory) and my uncle, James Jr. (1854-? OR) in school.
Grandpa Craigie never forgot his love of
the Oregon Coast and wanted to go back. This time he came directly to
the
coast when it was open for settlement in 1866 to the Robinson place on
Olalla Slough.
He had this friend in Salem, John Minto,
who would come over to fish. He offered the use of his shack to Grandpa
while he looked for a place to homestead.
He went down the bay here to what is now
Craigie
Point on the opposite side of the Yaquina River and settled
there.
Old George Luther Boone—I suspect you've
read about him—was right across the river from him, and my grandparents
befriended this family.
Grandma died of tuberculosis soon after
they arrived, but Grandpa raised the younger children and taught them
to
cook and knit and keep house. And then when they got to the point where
they had to go to school, he taught them French.
Connie: Tell me a little bit about your
dad.
Violet: My father's name was George King
(1844-1916). He was born in Yorkshire, England, and he was the third or
fourth son down. You know what the caste system was like in England, I
suppose, and the prospects were rather poor for a young man to make a
living.
So, at the age of 21, he emigrated to
America
and settled in Michigan. I don't recall what drew him to Michigan,
unless
it was through friends. He acquired land for a peach orchard and became
a
logger.
In those days logging was done by cold
decking
the logs in the winter, and when the spring freshets came, they floated
the logs downriver to the mills.
Dad was a big man: six feet two inches tall
and very sturdy. At the age of 21 he was doing the dangerous job of
riding
logs downriver.
He contracted rheumatism and was almost
crippled in his hips after that. He decided he needed a change of
climate
and to leave the bitter cold of the Great Lakes region for the Sandwich
Islands.
Well, he landed in Portland during the late
1860s, following the Civil War. In those days he wore quite a bit of
money
in a belt around his middle.
There was one building on the east side
of Portland, and it was called Doctor Hawthorne's Insane Asylum. And of
course the real estate guys got hold of him and wanted him to invest
his
hard-earned money in Portland interests like that and others. They told
him Portland was going to be a major, world class port. Dad laughed at
them and said it would not be a world port because it was 100 miles
from
the sea!
Although his destination was the Sandwich
Islands, he was stuck in Portland because he couldn't get passage at
the
time. The vessels didn't run very regularly, and it would be a several
month wait.
In the meantime, he heard about some
government
work going on in Newport. They were building a lighthouse and preparing
to make jetties in Yaquina Bay in 1871. He immediately got a job
superintending
the masonry work on the foundation of the lighthouse. Later on, he was
a steam engineer and superintended the building of the south jetty.
During the course of that government work
he married my mother, had two children, and his younger brother arrived
here from England.
Del: How did your family end up at Oyster
City?
Violet: The oyster business was flourishing
up the bay, and Oyster City was being platted, and his brother wanted
him
to move there and go into the oyster business with him.
So that's where Dad moved and that's where
I was born, May 24, 1893. My sister, Mary Gladys Burgess, was also born
there.
Connie: Do you carry the famous Craigie
name?
Violet: No, but my older sister, Elizabeth
Craigie King, and several of our cousins do. It's a beautiful name, one
that I’m proud of. "Nellie" is also a family name and the one I
inherited.
Connie: What was Oyster City like when you
lived there?
Violet: Oyster City was a little community
on the far side of the Yaquina River, and was established in 1865 by
independent
oystermen. It consisted of 13 plots of oyster grounds and is located
directly
across the river from Oysterville. It had about 20 families and
included
a daily newspaper, a school, but no post office. Later, a post office
was
built on the north side of the bay at the railroad tracks. People
wanted
to call it Oysterville, but there’s an Oysterville, Washington, that
also
shipped oysters. The government didn't think it was wise to have a
second
Oysterville, so they called our post office Winant. It was so
complicated:
We had the name Winant for the post office, Oysterville for the city
itself—even
though technically it wasn't legal—and Oyster City on the south side of
the Bay!
Del: That's not much different than the
situation we're in: We live on the Elk City-Harlan Road, the nearest
community
is Elk
City,
the post office is at Eddyville, and the telephone exchange is Chitwood!

Connie: Wow! Life get's complicated! When
did Oyster City get telephone?
Violet: Every little community eventually
had its own little company phone. We got ours in 1912. We could call
Newport
but we couldn't call Toledo. The trees would fall over on the wires and
the company wouldn't come and fix them. That's the kind of service we
had.
Connie: Did you gravitate towards Toledo
or Newport as your center of operation?
Violet: My family gravitated to Newport.
But with the courthouse in Toledo, dad would get on the train when he
had
court business. But our pleasure place was Newport. My aunt owned the
Ocean
House in Newport where we stayed. We did most of our shopping at
Yaquina
City, and went to Toledo for business matters.
Connie: Did residents have other sources
of income in addition to oyster farming?
Violet: The community's money crops were
salmon and oysters. There was little logging done there except on
Wright
Creek and Beaver Creek.
The road from Oyster City goes all the way
through to Poole Slough. A lot of the boys worked in Toledo and Newport
and a lot of the girls attended Toledo High School.
Del: Did you go to school with my dad in
Newport?
Violet: Yes, I did as a matter of fact.
All my early life I went to little one room schools, and that's where I
got the idea I wanted to be a teacher. I used to help my teachers out
so
much with the little fellows coming up through the grades. I'd read to
them and have them read to me.
My married sister moved to Newport and she
had two small children at the time, and they thought it was a good idea
for me to move to Newport and attend a graded school. I think it was a
four room school with two grades in each room. So I moved in with my
sister
when I was in the sixth grade.
By the way, it was the first time I got
a ready made coat. I remember that so well; it was a gray. My mother
always
made our things; she'd turn old things over and make them out.
Connie: Was the store bought coat as nice
as the things your mother made for you?
Violet: Well, I thought so! Anyway, I moved
in with my sister and her family and Dell Hodges was living there, too.
He was in the sixth grade and probably went through the same one room
school
routine that I had at Bear Creek. He moved to Newport and got a job at
the Abbey House washing dishes for his board. You didn’t know that,
Delbert?
Del: I just vaguely recall him saying he
went to school in Newport. I never knew he washed dishes for his board.
Violet: Did you ever notice anything in
particular about his gait? I think you’ve got a little bit of it.
Del: Kind of a little fast walk?
Violet: Yes! We called him Quick Step! And
he was good in school.
Del: How old would he have been?
Violet: Well, I was a little bit old for
sixth grade by today’s standards, about 13 or 14, and he was probably
the
same age. We didn't advance the way kids do now because we only
attended
three months of school out of the year.
Connie: How did you know when you were in
the next grade? Was there a next book up or something?
Violet: Yes. Our readers were Reader One,
Reader Two, and so on.
I have a theory I'd like to share with you.
Today's school children don't handle the same amount of books we
handled.
Their work is transposed onto sheets of paper and work books. We used
our
books and we loved our books. We had to pay for them, just as parochial
school students do today. So we valued and cherished them. They weren't
furnished in those days like they are in modern public schools.
Connie: Did you write in your books?
Violet: No. We went to the board. And that's
a good deal. There's a certain pride and incentive when you see
yourself
doing better than your neighbor at the board. There's a little healthy
competition going on there too, which is good. The teacher can see at a
glance what a student is doing and what her problem is. I don’t think
we
use the board like that now. For the most part, it’s the teacher at the
board while the students passively look on.
Speaking of competition, I don't think my
mother ever suffered from discrimination because she was a
"half-blood."
At least she never said so. But I had the feeling all the time. When I
was in school I felt I had to excel to beat a certain white girl and I
did. Of course, that made her angry anyway, whether I was a
"quarter-blood"
or not.
But getting back to this book idea. The
next year the children would say, "I'll begin second grade with a new
book."
We had arithmetic and reading books. I think our language and health
books
were pretty general, pretty loose. Geography was pretty interesting. We
had two geography books: a little one and a big broad one with maps.
Lots
of things could go one behind those books, and they did.
Anyway, children today lack incentive and
they aren't learning their tables like I learned mine.
Connie: It appears as though children today
aren't learning much of anything.
Del: They can't read or write when they
get out of high school. How can they attend college?
Violet: This is my contention and you can
apply it to any area of endeavor that you like. To become an expert at
anything you have to drill—whether you like it or not.
Connie: It takes a lot of effort to learn
how to do anything well.
Violet: The child has to be motivated, and
if she isn't motivated she gets disinterested. I know something that
will
"motivate" students pretty well—right on the behind. If they get
"motivated"
often, they will sit up and take notice. I was a disciplinarian and I'm
not ashamed of it.
Drill, drill, drill! And then I had a dad
who had us recite our tables when we got home from school.
Del: When I was going to Bear Creek I was
among the first ones paddled before the school district discontinued
it.
I also remember when Laura Mack was teaching, she had everyone at the
chalk
board. The older kids helped the younger kids. So there was a totally
different
feeling in the classroom. Today, if you spank a kid you can go to jail
for it.
The Grim Intruder
Slowly and patiently, with infinite care, the oyster builds upon the grain of sand—layer upon layer of a plastic milky substance that covers each sharp corner and coats every cutting edge ...and gradually ...slowly ...by and by a pearl is made ...a thing of wondrous beauty wrapped around trouble.
Connie: Tell me some more about the
family
oyster business.
Violet: My dad and my uncle were raising
mostly native Yaquina Bay oysters. Their outlets were primarily
Portland
and San Francisco, and they were shipped in gunny sacks. At times, they
sent oysters half way across the continent before there were
refrigerator
cars. The oyster in the shell would stay fresh for ten days. Once
opened,
outside, in cool conditions, they don’t need to be iced. But once
they're
opened, they don’t last very long.
My dad was the first person in Oyster City
to be interested in importing the eastern oyster from Chesapeake Bay.
He
didn't finance the venture himself. A man in Portland financed it, and
my dad donated ground for an oyster bed. They brought them in and
planted
them. They usually brought in a two-year-old oyster and figured it
would
grow and be on the market in another two years.
Del: Were oysters a staple of the coastal
Indian diet?
Violet: Actually, there's an opinion that
the Indians didn't eat oysters, but I disagree.
Connie: Then what are the kitchen middens?
Violet: That's the point! As I said, oysters
don't preserve well, like some of the other shell fish do. Clam and
mussel
can be smoked, dried and used later. So can salmon and meats. But
oyster
is very delicate: it's very watery and small, and it takes extra rigs
to
dig them up out of the water. The oyster may not have been that
attractive
to Indians as a source of food.
The question arose why the oyster wouldn't
propagate better in Yaquina Bay. So the University
of Oregon Biology Department came over and undertook all sorts
of projects in an attempt to determine if and how they could propagate.
They still don't propagate to the extent that it's profitable.

Since then, the idea grew of importing
foreign
oysters, the "Jap" oyster in particular. The native oyster suffered
even
more from this because the Jap oyster is large—shelled. The oystermen
were
so greedy to plant this area with Jap oysters, they dumped them in the
Bay on top of our native oyster because the native oyster wasn't
plentiful
enough to be profitable.
As I said, the native oyster is very
delicate!
It has to breathe and has to be cultivated and managed just about like
a vegetable garden!
Connie: How do the oystermen take care of
their crop?
Violet: Well, you stir them up. The
oystermen
in those days had long tongs with hooks on the inside. They would stick
that down into the water and bring the oysters up into their floats and
cull them on board. They would take out all the debris, but couldn't
keep
the debris on the floats very long because it had baby oysters in it
that
couldn't take the heat.
Del: Were the floats steam operated?
Violet: No, they were hand powered.
Connie: Do oysters do better in warm or
cold water? Is there a rule of thumb about this?
Violet: I haven't heard that was the
problem.
But if they're in an area like Lincoln County that has excessive
rainfall
and too much fresh water runs into the bay, that was bad for the oyster.
Also, silt, mud, and industry, like the
big mills, have been blamed for the oyster's failure to thrive.
Environmentalists
said it was the sawdust and the bark, because when that gets wet, it
falls
to the bottom of the bay, and covers and smothers the oyster.
Another factor added to the decline: the
old-fashioned oystermen and the young people particularly found other
things
to do that were more profitable.
There's a young Indian man, Joe Lewis, and
his wife, who are raising oysters on the bay, has his own bed, and is
operating
according to "old scripture." ("I think he's making a nice living.
Wouldn't
it be! What is it now? $15 a gallon?")
Connie: More than anything we can afford.
Definitely a delicacy.
Violet: I think a little pint jar is $10
to $12 these days.)
Connie: Was there an oyster packing plant
or cannery at Oyster City?
Violet: No, but there was a salmon cannery
at Oysterville. My father's markets were all high class restaurants and
they were transported daily on trains going to Portland in 12 hours and
to San Francisco in one
and
a half days.
Connie: How does the oyster breathe?
Violet: Well, I don't know anything about
their love life, honey! I think that's all done within the shell. What
do you call that? You've really started something, Connie!
Connie: I didn't say "breed" I said
"breathe!"
You said earlier the oyster had to breathe or it would smother!
Violet: Oh, I thought you said breed!
Connie: No, that was going to be my next
question!
Violet: Well, I don't know. They open their
little mouths to take in air, and that's the way they eat, too.
Connie: But you don't know anything about
their love life?
Violet: I know they weren't loving very
much when they wouldn't propagate!
Connie: When did they quit loving and the
industry die out?
Violet: I think the industry reached its
peak in the early 1920s.
Connie: What are your memories of Yaquina
City ?
Violet: My memories were of a flourishing
little place. We'd go across the river by boat and walk down the
railroad
tracks to town. We had friends there. We had heavy shopping to do,
since
there were some really nice dry goods stores. They didn't have a bank
there
nor in Oyster City.
But It had one hotel and six saloons! During
the time of "local option," people had to vote about being "wet" or
"dry."
They passed a law that the city could only have so many saloons per
capita.
Anyway, someone wanted to build another
saloon in Yaquina City, so he built a walk out to a float that rose and
fell with the tide, and that was his saloon! They had to walk out to
the
saloon when the tide was right. People came over on the train with
empty
suitcases from Corvallis and Philomath which were "dry" towns. They
would
get their liquor and take it back on the train in their suitcases.
As I recall, Philomath just passes a liquor
ordinance a few years ago. They had the "high" religions that just
wouldn't
let it in.
Connie: What was the religious life of the
community like during your childhood?
Violet: In those days we didn't have
organized
churches. Circuit riders came and preached to us. This was kind of
wonderful!
When They'd come in, regardless of their faith—Presbyterian, Methodist
or Episcopalian—they would hold service in some hall or big home and
everybody
went. Of course, the Catholics didn't do much to speak of. And if it
was
summertime we'd hold a picnic and everybody would go, men, women and
children,
Catholics, Protestants or what have you.
Then they'd preach the sermon and everybody
would sing hymns and wait until the next minister. Families had to wait
to have their babies baptized until the next minister came. And
marriages—if
lovers could wait that long!—were put off until the next preacher came
along too.
Connie: How often did the ministers come
through?
Violet: Oh, every three or four months,
depending on the weather. Not much in the wintertime. They'd stay on a
week and go around to different little communities and visit.
The Episcopal church in Toledo, which was
built in 1883, was one of the very early churches here, and so was the
Catholic church. The Methodist church came in a little bit later. There
were church services at the Siletz Reservation too, you know, but they
were just like ours—mostly Protestant.
Del: What are your earliest recollections
of the Bateman family's funeral business?
Violet: We had many morticians before Leo
Bateman. One of our very earliest ones was a woman, Clarinda
Copeland,
who owned a general store in Siletz. She afterwards moved to Newport.
Bob Bateman bought the funeral home from
Frank Parker, and there were several owners before him.
In the olden days there was no embalming.
Everything was done by neighbors. My dad was efficient on that. He
prepared
bodies.
Connie: How did he prepare them?
Violet: Bathing and dressing mostly. I can
remember what happened to my own dad. I don't think he went through the
hands of a mortician. That was in 1860. They had poultices they put on
their faces to cover up discoloration and things like that. They didn't
draw the blood but there was a certain amount of fumigation that went
on.
Neighbors would build a casket for the grieving family and sit up with
the body, which was retained at home, until the time of the funeral.
It was a long time that Frank got over the
fact that he couldn't assist at the grave side—dig the hole, fill in
the
dirt.
Connie: Was that a cathartic type of thing
to do?
Violet: It was the last thing you could
do for your neighbor.
That’s what disturbs me about cremation.
I'm not opposed to it at all, but it's so incomplete. I think it's
sensible
and the time is coming when more of it will have to be done. Burial is
just more natural. Dust to dust. Go through the process all life goes
through.
Del: Do you remember anything about there
being a Ku
Klux Klan in Toledo?
Violet: Vaguely. I must not have paid much
attention to it at the time. There were crosses burned, I think.
Of course, You've got the "Jap" story, but
you're not going to do anything about it, are you?
Del: I’d love to hear a complete version
of it. I've heard they were trucked out, shipped out in box cars, and
what
have you. What do you recall about it?
Violet: My version is very opinionated.
First off, they were American citizens [sic]. C. D. Johnson when out
and
hired them and brought them in to work on the green chain. If you know
what the green chain is, you know it was a man killer.
The Jap was a very small man. He brought
his family along. There were no other Japs around here to build
community.
I don’t think it would have ever worked out. The importation of Jap
laborers
definitely would have increased. I think that under the circumstances,
that, as an ethnic group, they would have become very unhappy and just
move on. And, because of their small stature, they wouldn't be very
efficient
on the green chain.
Connie: Was it like California's farm
program—the
Mexicans nationals were going to work in the fields for a season and
then
they were going back to Mexico?
Violet: I don't know what the motive was.
I just don't know if they were using them at the other mills, or if
they
were successful, or if it was a trial, or what.
Connie: You'd think with something like
that, there would have been a plan or a program to successfully
integrate
them into the community.
Violet: Well, there probably was. They may
have had ideas the "Japs" would branch off into other jobs, too.
In those days, Ethnics were not very popular
in Lincoln County. I don't think we were racists. We had Chinese
laborers
who came in here and worked on the railroad. They were always ignored.
Nobody made an issue of their being here. They worked in our salmon
canneries
in Waldport and
Oysterville. But they lived off to themselves. They were here during
the
pack
season and then they were gone.
But my remembrance of the Jap incident was
a sad, sad thing. I'd never seen anything like that before, and of
course
they took a suit on it.
The people who shouldn't have had to have
paid—and took the brunt—was a married couple, Rosemary and George
Schenck,
and they were quite old at the time.
It was a riot plain and simple. Those kids
that entered that riot didn't have a nickel in their pocket, but you
couldn’t
do anything with them in court.
Del: Was the actual physical moving them
out done by a younger group?
Violet: Practically.
Del: Did the mob put them in box cars?
Violet: I think they used cars.
Del: But it was more or less headed by some
influential people who were racial bigots?
Violet: The couple that went in with this
group were very strong politicians. But I don't know what their
politics
were. They may have had feelings about ethnics coming in and taking
jobs
away from whites. I don't know why "mature people" like that would
behave
that way. I don't think they promoted the riot per se; I'd like to
think
they didn't. But they’re the ones who got "abused" for it.
Connie: Was there a problem getting pallid
people to work on the green chain?
Violet: Oh, yes!
Connie: Well, then the mill might have been
acting out of self-defense.
Violet: That's what I thought. My contention
was that the mill had a right to take care of its own business. I
didn't
see why anybody else had to butt in.
We were boycotted. Frank and I were in the
wholesale business at the time. We were handling grain, hay, coal and
building
materials, and we had a big old building in Toledo where this building
sits.
We were also handling chicken feed. There
was a certain man who had a very profitable plant on the Olalla where
he
was making lots of money on eggs and chickens, and he was one of our
best
customers. He got more results from our food than any he had. He was
one
of the fellows who boycotted us. We had a lot of them that boycotted
us,
because they knew where we stood on it. But, you know, in about two
weeks
this guy was back! His chickens cut down on their production and back
he
came.
Everything smoothed over but it was a
disgraceful
thing; it really was.
Del: It must have been brewing quite a while
to get every one so involved in it.
Violet: Well, it doesn't take very long.
We've got race riots today right in our midst and we'd probably find
that
there's more of that than we think there is. All it takes is a drop of
a hat. It's like throwing a match in a hay stack. One little thing will
ignite it.
Connie: What happened to some of your
siblings
later in life? Were any of them oystermen?
Violet: My oldest sister, who is 13 years
older than I, married Don Shirmer quite early in life. She had four
children,
three of which lived to maturity.
My brother, like a lot of young fellows,
left home when he was about 16 and got a job on the ferry to Newport.
He
worked on that passenger service ferry for quite a while. Then he
joined
the coast guard and he made that his career. I think he was in the
coast
guard for 30 years. He was living in Santa Rosa when he retired.
There’s an interesting story surrounding
his career. He continued to advance in the coast guard and was shipped
to California and had several stations there. Finally he ended up at
Fort
Point at the Presidio
of San Francisco. He had gone as high as he could as a noncommissioned
officer. He stayed there until his term ended in March 1941.
When he was separated from the service,
he wasn't entirely released from duty. The coast guard kept him on
reserve.
The second world war was brewing and they had ideas. So, the next day
after
Pearl Harbor (August 14, 1941) the coast guard called him into active
duty
again. They did compensate him, however. He was promoted to the
commissioned
rank of lieutenant and had an office right next to the admiral—the big
guy—at the Port of San
Francisco.
He was the assistant there for the rest of the war. Five years in all.
He paid for it. Those extra years of service
were quite a drain on him, and he had a heart attack when he got out.
Up
until then he'd always been a very healthy man, so the family always
attributed
it to his wartime service.
The responsibility was tremendous. Night
after night he rarely slept. He had to make important decisions by
himself
if the captain or major happened to be away. And there was so much
sabotage
going on that every boat that entered or left the harbor had to be
scrutinized
to the "unth" degree.
After he was released he went back to Santa
Rosa and lived there until his death in 1974. He was 88 years old.
My youngest sister, Mary Gladys, married
Dr. Burgess, and moved to Toledo.
And, as you know, I married Frank Updike.
You know him, don't you Delbert?
Del: I remember my dad talking about him
from time to time.
Violet: Well, his dad, who was from
Colorado,
had a little place across from the Bear Creek School.
Frank was quite a guy. I guess he'd visited
every state in the Midwest. So, his dad wanted him to come out West to
live. He fell in love with the country, and he thought Frank would like
it too.
Well, Frank was working at the sugar beet
processing plant in Colorado, but he did come out and visit his dad.
Then
he went back. I don't know exactly what year. I met him in 1912. He got
the place on Bear Creek after his dad moved away.
Del: Where was it from Mary and Walter
Parks'
place?
Violet: Do you know where the Bear Creek
Falls are?
Del: Let me think...
Violet: It had a great big barn on it. The
Updike place isn't very far from there.
Del: Maybe pretty close to where Dick and
Judy Parks are living now...
Violet: Maybe. I don't know for sure. They
call that end of it the Updike Road. Frank was there until WWI. His
mother
was living with him. He made arrangement to send her back to Arkansas
where
her daughter was living.
Then he sold his place and got property
in Portland, and eventually we sold that. We married just before he
went
into the service. Think of it. He was one of those fellows who wasn't
going
to get married!
I was teaching school by then and there
was sickness in the family, and I had all the obligation I thought I
could
handle.
Connie: What changed your mind?
Violet: I don't know. Love at first sight?
Mama thought it was foolish.
Del: So you met him while you were teaching
at Bear Creek?
Violet: Yes. He was chairman of the school
board, if you please! Twenty years old!
Del: That's hard to believe.
Violet: Remember the young couple in the
area that had the big family—Anton Jung and his wife? They were German
immigrants. My students were Jungs.
Del: Tell me about your teaching career.
Which schools did you teach at besides Bear Creek?
Violet: I taught ten years in one room
schools.
My first term was at Bear Creek School in 1912. I was just out of high
school, so I went back to college in Salem. I did my practice teaching
there. That was the time when you could teach with a two year
certificate.
Connie: Normal School?
Violet: Yes. Normal School. And I was really
lucky to get my practice teaching in Salem. I was offered a contract
there,
but at the time my family was sick. I had a sister who had become an
invalid.
My dad was old and still had his rheumatism. I finished at the Normal
School
in 1915, and he died the following year.
I came back to Lincoln County and taught
in one room schools. I had to be near the folks. Wherever I taught I
tried
to spend weekends with them. I taught at Moody and Storrs, which is the
Evelyn (1906-1994) Glen Parry place. There was a school there in 1918.
Frank came home from the war in 1919.
Anyway, I was still in the Toledo area and
that's what mattered. By then mother had left Oyster City and moved to
Toledo. Frank was in the service, and I lived with my mother.
Then we bought a little ranch down at Rocky
Point. We had about 60 acres down there, and he logged off the timber
and
supplied the fuel for the old electric light plant in Toledo. He had a
crew of 12 men working for him, cutting timber with a drag saw, and I
taught
school at Moody and Oysterville and walked the railroad tracks back and
forth to work, and he got out the wood. He used to transport about 20
cords
of wood to Toledo in big barges about three times a week. That's how
great
the demand was.
He kept this up for several years. He was
involved in other enterprises too. Finally, his health began to fail,
so
he wanted to get into something less physically taxing. That's how he
got
into selling life insurance.
Although he sold other types of insurance,
Frank started with life insurance, and I think it was his first love.
He
felt as though he were really serving people when he's go to their
homes.
His companies were marvelous in helping him. People were pretty
independent
in those days—not very much insurance minded at all. The pat answer
was,
"I can save my own money and take care of my family's future." But how
many really can? Not very many. It's pretty hard. I think people are a
little more insurance minded today than they were then, even though I
don't
think there's the service there used to be.
Franks’s mother died in 1954 and Frank died
in 1956. We had already acquired this building in 1926, which is called
the Updike Building. After I quit teaching I went into the insurance
business
and continued until about five or six years after his death.
Del: What were thing like when you were
principal of Burgess School in Toledo?
Violet: I already had a reputation for being
a strict disciplinarian when I accepted the job as principal of Burgess
Grade School. I loved my superintendent, I loved my own teaching and I
had wonderful teachers.
But I found the tendency growing from year
to year of teachers not wanting to assume their own disciplinary
measures.
One teacher in particular would way, "I'll sent you to the principal's
office," and that was not a good image to hold up to a child—that she
had
done something bad enough that she had to be sent to somebody higher up
to be corrected. I firmly believe the time to make the correction is
while
its fresh and the incident is clear and the child knows exactly what's
what. By the time they got to me, I didn't know the particulars. I used
to ask teachers, "Couldn't you have taken care of this," but so many of
them didn't want to do it themselves.
Connie: What was the issue? Was it timidity?
Violet: No, it was political. They were
thinking about their jobs. This way, I had to take the brunt from
higher
ups.
Do you remember the Kosydars, Delbert? They
had a big family in Siletz. They were a very frank and outspoken
family.
They called a spade a spade. Well, Carrie Kosydar was my fifth grade
teacher.
On Fridays we always tried to relax a little bit. I let my pupils chew
gum in class. Of course, it wasn't nearly as much fun to chew gum in
class
with permission as it was without.
Carrie would have her students tell riddles
during that same Friday afternoon relaxation period. Fifth graders are
beginning to get wise pretty quick. She came into my room during our
relaxation
session and she said, "A boy just told an "off-colored" riddle in my
room."
Her face was flaming and she continued, "I know darned well his dad put
him up to it." I said, "I bet his dad did it too." Of course, the kid
didn't
know what the riddle meant. So I told Carrie, "You just go back and
change
the subject; do something else for a while."
Del: I started school in Toledo in the
seventh
grade. Wayne was in the fifth grade. I graduated In 1958. And that was
at a time people believed that if you were born and raised in Big Elk
Valley
you'd never amount to a damn. I remember hearing those painful
undertones.
Violet: Burgess kind of had that reputation
too. You see, the professional people in Toledo all lived around
here—doctors,
lawyers and what have you. Their kids all went to Stanton School.
Burgess
was isolated. When they started bussing kids from the country they
picked
up all those little schools like Bear Creek that were up the Siletz
Road
and down the Newport Road. We had at one time an enrollment of 360
students.
We had to take part of our basement and put in an extra first grade.
Our
classes were big. It wasn't anything unusual to have a class of 35 all
through the grades. But in the first grade we did split them; we didn't
overload the 1st grade. As principal, I always taught 7th and eighth
grade.
So the Stanton kids kin of looked down on
those Burgess kids because most of them were from the country, and they
considered themselves the elite. But our superintendent had to make
some
changes, so he moved some of the Stanton kids to Burgess.
Connie: Were the kids from the snob school
feeling bent out of shape?
Violet: Oh, yes! The girls cried and the
boys threw their weight around. The boys were a little bit harder to
handle,
but I finally got some of them in and said, "Just look at that
playground
out there. You don't have anything like that over at Stanton School."
And
I said, "Get with it! Why don't you start a couple of baseball teams?"
After all, we had plenty of kids. We could start two baseball teams.
After
that they changed their attitude. They got out there and they played
everything
you could think of on that wonderful playground. We didn’t have any
equipment
to speak of. Not for the little folks either. In fact, had the little
folks
portioned off. The playground was big enough that we could put the
little
girls in one place and the boys could have the big area. That was the
beautiful
thing about it; that had all this space to play during recess.
But the situation with the busses was bad.
We didn't have the busses we have now that pick up the small ones first
then pick up the big ones on the second run. We had to wait until the
big
kids were dismissed after school. And in the morning, the poor little
1st
graders would have to get up so early to catch that bus.
Del: That's where I was at! I had the
longest
bus ride in the county!
Connie: We'll be dealing with that next
year with Heather when she enters first grade.
Del: The way transportation is now we'll
run her in in the morning so we don't have to get up so early and let
her
come home on the bus in the evening. But when Wayne and I were milking
cattle, hell, we'd get up at 4am. In the morning, go out and find those
cows, get them milked, and catch the bus by 6:45am.
Violet: We used to have teachers taking
turns watching those little children who arrived so early in the
morning.
We had a soup kitchen. In fact, we had the
first soup kitchen in Lincoln County because we needed it. There again,
the circumstances were wonderful because we supported our own soup
kitchen;
we were never in the red. People, when they butchered, would provide
part
of their meat for the program.
Connie: Was this lunch?
Violet: Yes. This was hot lunch. We always
had one hot dish and some kind of fruit. Sometimes merchants would be
overstocked
on oranges or something else and would bring it out by the crate to the
school and donate it.
If there was a road kill or a deer killed
in season, people would dress it out and hang it in the cooler and we'd
have that.
Connie: If that was an innovative idea at
the time, what did most schools do for lunch?
Violet: It wasn't necessary at Stanton
because
they all lived near enough they could either go home for lunch or carry
their own cold lunch. But coming distances like the country children
were
made it seem advisable to have a hot dish. And the little folks had to
have a glass of milk.
Connie: Considering it was the Great
Depression (1929-1939), it sounds like they had things better
over
at the "poor" school than they did at the "rich" school.
Violet: They did! And I'm not opinionated!
Del: How far back were they establishing
the hot lunch program?
Violet: I started teaching at Burgess in
1927 and they had it immediately.
Del: Right now in the news there's the big
ballyhoo about the government's hot lunch program. They're making a big
spectacle of the original idea now.
Connie: Some schools are serving breakfast
now, and cooks resent the extra burden.
Violet: You know, Dr. Callendar wasn't in
favor of those fancy lunches at Burgess. It was almost a three course
meal.
Do you ever read the menu for the week in the Lincoln County Leader?
Connie: I do, and it's quite elaborate.
Violet: Dr. Callendar said it's a detriment
to their study.
Connie: You mean the food going to their
stomachs would make them too tired?
Violet: Yes. What we did at Burgess—I'm
proud to tell it on every occasion was this: We were more or less
isolated,
as I said before; we were a brand new school; we were right in the
middle
of the Depression; and we just made due with lot of things. We had
entertainment
at the school; we had a beautiful PTA with 200 members. We had 75 to 80
coming to every meeting. Now there is no PTA.
Connie: My mother was president of the PTA
on several occasions while I was attending grade school in Grants Pass.
It was certainly big when I was in grade school. Parents supplied
elaborate
classroom parties for the various holidays, we put on school programs,
had picnics at our teachers’ homes, and there was a much, much greater
sense of community than there is now. You could go home for lunch,
bring
a cold lunch, or have a hot lunch prepared by school cooks.
I’m curious, Violet. During the Depression
was the hot lunch at Burgess the only meal the kids were being fed? I
ask
this because my mother, who lived on a farm and attended a one room
school,
spoke of children walking long distances to school with gunny sacks
wrapped
around their feet for shoes and potato peelings in a bag for lunch. Do
you remember any real "hard luck" stories?
Violet: Yes, many. We sent letters to the
service clubs down town asking if they'd buy meal tickets for indigent
children. And almost every service club in town would agree to buy at
least
three months worth of tickets.
Connie: Then the kids were paying a little
something for their lunch every day?
Violet: Yes, we had to hire a cook, and
she had to be paid. It was very, very reasonable. The older girls who
couldn't
pay helped clean up the kitchen. We had about three shifts of children
eating, and we had to clean and change the tables. Having students help
now is taboo now because of health regulations.
Connie: I'm 32 and I'm already starting
to feel the generation gap because when I was attending Notre
Dame High School for Girls in Salinas, California I worked in
the
kitchen and got free burritos and what have you. I know that was
parochial
school and there were slightly different standards, but probably not
that
much.
Violet: I just don't know what things are
coming to!
Connie: They're going to h-e-l-l!
Violet: I guess so. I don't know if we had
any reports of food poisoning.
Salmonella is the big thing now. "Salmonella
bugs are goanna come and git ya!"
Violet: The food was hot, the milk was
sealed,
the fruit was fresh. If they wanted sandwiches, they brought their own.
Considering better than 50 percent of our people were bussed in from
outlying
areas, we strongly felt they needed a hot meal.
Connie: Did you apply for the position of
principal at Burgess or did the school district seek you out?
I’ll tell you how I came to teach in Toledo.
I got a letter from the city superintendent who was, of course, working
under the county superintendent. The letter was direct and to the
point.
It said, "We would like very much to have you come to Toledo as we need
a teacher who is a strong disciplinarian. We just kicked out one who
wasn't."
It wasn't just those words, but that was the gist of it. That's a funny
way to invite a teacher to come and take over.
Connie: Then you already had a reputation
for being a strong disciplinarian?
Violet: I guess I did. But I didn't have
to use it much out in the sticks. Kids were better behaved in the
sticks
than they were in town. They had more responsibility on the farm, more
things to do, and were accustomed to hard work and settling down.
Connie: I think Del would probably tell
you he thinks that's still true.
Violet: I think two thirds of our youth
problems are because they don't have anything to do.
Connie: I believe it's a form of apathy.
Our youth have no hope for the future, no direction, to meaning to
their
lives. They are alienated from their communities, their homes and
themselves.
Violet: Yes. You can't curb a child and
tell her she can't do this and she can't do that, and then turn around
and offer her nothing constructive to do.
On a farm, children have responsibilities
according to age and ability. I don't imagine you were "killed,"
Delbert,
because you had to go get the cows, even though you thought you were!
Del: Yes, sometimes. However, I think my
brother Wayne was the one who always though that he was "killed,"
whereas
I usually took everything in stride.
Violet: You've come a long way—from farm
boy to MFA. When did you make up your mind you were going to go to
college
and do something, Delbert?
Del: Well, I never had that much orientation
towards higher education. However, I do recall my dad telling me that
if
he'd had the education he'd have wanted to become a teacher. But it was
not until my senior year in high school when I was in Mr. Kaiser's
class
that I understood there were possibilities beyond working at the mill.
He wrote in a survey, "There are three tracks of vocational training.
What
do you want to do?" Because I was always woods oriented, I put down "I
want to be a game warden." So in the course of following through on
that
I wrote to OSC in Corvallis and decided to study Fish & Game
Management.
Oregon
State University has one of the best schools in the nation for
that. That really got me into possibility thinking. At that time, only
rich people went to college.
About that time I got a couple of little
scholarships. One was through the Oregon
State Grange, and the other one was from the Sears-Roebuck
Foundation.
They weren't enough to stick in your eye, but they were enough to get
me
motivated.
Elk City Youth Wins OSC Award
Delbert Hodges, son of Claudine and Dell
Hodges of Elk City, has been named winner of one of the top awards in
agriculture
at Oregon State College.
Hodges has been picked to receive a $250
scholarship offered annually by the Sears-Roebuck Foundation to an
outstanding
student in agriculture. Selection is based on high scholastic
[achievement]
and promise of future achievement.
Hodges is a freshman this year.
Delbert Hodges Wins Grange Scholarship
A $200 college scholarship was awarded to
a Lincoln County student recently by the Oregon State Grange in
Portland.
Winner was Delbert L. Hodges of Elk City.
Each year the State Grange gives six such
awards to college students, whose names are drawn at random, during the
annual convention each June. This year additional money made it
possible
to draw the seventh name. Hodges' name was drawn. The awards are
reserved
for Grange member students who have previously had at least one term of
college.

So the last semester of my senior year I
took college prep English, but by that time it was too late to learn
much.
Of course, the folks were behind me on
anything
I wanted to do. They never discouraged me in the things I had chosen to
do. I was always a very self-reliant individual, and I always did what
I felt I needed to do. And I was always fairly active socially, so I
wasn't
too timid or bashful to try college, even though it would be a brand
new
experience for me.
So I went to Corvallis during the summer
and lined up a job working at the dairy barns.
That autumn, I moved to Corvallis just
totally
blind and knowing absolutely nothing. Zero. I had no preparation
whatsoever,
and just blundered my way through.
Then I found out Fish & Game Management
was really not my bag. At least, I wasn't "academically orientated"
enough.
It was a highly technical curriculum, and I wasn't prepared for it. It
almost would have been premed, and now I wish I had the aptitude for
medicine.
We had Ichthyology—all the "ologies"—and every thing to do with plants.
The first couple of years all you learned to do was identify everything
by its Latin name.
I was taking some art courses and it soon
became apparent that that was where my aptitude was. Those were the
classes
I was getting good grades in—not all that "ology" stuff. So finally,
after
a couple of years, I wanted to build up my GPA because I haven't
developed
the savvy to figure out the system of being in college where it's so
political.
One experiment I heard of was about an
English
teacher who wrote a paper and then secretly turned it in to another
English
teacher who gave the first teacher a "D."
So while I was in the Art Department
instructors
came along and talked me into going to the Art Center School of Design
in Los Angeles.
1966
Delbert Hodges, local art student, will leave Saturday for the Los Angeles Art Center School of Design where he will attend college for the next year or more. Hodges has been employed for the past several months with Georgia-Pacific Corporation. He has finished three years at Oregon State University. He will l spend one week with relatives in the bay region en route South.
Not giving it any more thought than that
I said I would try it, so I laid out a year, worked and saved up the
money,
and went down there. After running out of money in Los Angeles, I came
back here and worked another year and went back to Los Angeles again.
I had a mental block towards learning
foreign
languages. I had always heard that in order to earn a degree in art
from
the University of Oregon you had to have two years of a foreign
language
because it was humanities. I didn't have brains enough to know I could
get a BS instead of a BA in art.
Connie: You didn't have brains enough to
look it up in the catalog?
Del: I just recently started getting smart.
Connie: The man's he's describing, Violet,
is not the man I know!
Del: But you can see where my environment
had such a strong influence on me. I have always finished what I
started.
I remember way back when telling myself: "If you don't get out of
school
by the time you are 30 you’re going to have to flick it all in and go
to
work."
To make a long story short, I finally got
my MFA degree on my 30th birthday, June 14, 1970.
Violet: That's unreal! I watched your
progress;
I knew what you were doing over the years. And I always asked your
mother
about you.
Del: My dad was a little skeptical about
my going into art. He couldn't relate to that until I sold my first
painting
and brought home a few bucks from it, and then it was okay. He could
relate
to that.
Violet: Yes, that was quite a switch from
the old thinking.
Del: Still, there are an awful lot of people
right around here who cannot relate to art as a profession. They have
no
idea how I'm staying alive; making a living.
There are those who can understand working
at the pulpmill or farming or messing with their cows and horses or
whatever,
but every time I see some of those folks they want to know if I'm
really
making it.
Connie: Our lifestyle is a mystery to most
people.
Del: You mentioned earlier that you didn't
think your mother suffered from racial discrimination but that you
yourself
felt a twinge of it from time to time.
Violet: All of this in your childhood comes
from the father and mother. It doesn't come from the child herself.
Racism,
stereotyping, prejudice and discrimination is injected into the
children
through the parents.
One of mother's sister's, Jane, married
an Italian, Thomas Ferr, so of course my cousins were more dark
complexioned
than I am.
Connie: I'm Italian and I'm certainly darker
than you are.
Violet: They lied and said they were Spanish.
Del: They preferred Spanish to Italian?
Violet: To Indian! But I never lied! They
told Frank, "Did you know Violet is a "quarter-blood?" "Well," he told
them, "I've been going to her house for over a year, so I guess I would
know."
Del: Well, my mom said when she was getting
ready to marry my dad that people came up to her to tell her all the
family
scuttlebutt. She said, ":He's 46 years old, so he's bound to have done
something in that length of time!"
Violet: I've done a lot of reading about
cultural assimilation versus separatism.
Connie: This is true today, because there
are those who want to retain their ethnic ways and there are those so
anxious
to jump into the melding pot they completely abandon their old ways. My
grandparents were that way. They spoke Italian in front of the children
when they didn't want to be understood, but they didn't teach them to
speak
it, so my dad and his siblings can't speak.
Violet: Do you think it's going to get back
to middle ground?
Connie: With everyone's interest in their
roots it will be interesting to see what happens.
Violet: I think communication and education
have a lot to do with it. People read and see a lot about this issue
and
they make up their minds. One thing I know is people can be very unkind
to one another.
Connie: Looking at the broader scope of
things, I don't think we can have every ethnic group in America living
separately on communes or reservations. There has to be some
cohesiveness
in order for us to even claim to be a nation.
Violet: I was the one who was interested
in my father's past and he didn't want to talk about it. He told me,
"You're
more of an Englishman than I am Violet," because he was trying to
forget
some things, I guess. He left all his family in England. He went back
after
he'd been here about 40 years with the intentions of staying six
months.
He came back home in six weeks.
Connie: He had become an American.
Violet: Yes, He was one hundred percent
American.
Chapter 28: Yaquina City
Yaquina City, now a ghost town, was situated on the southeastern shore of Yaquina Bay, about four miles from its mouth, and was the terminus of the Willamette Valley & Coast Railroad, where the company had a large dock and two warehouses, and a great amount of material, giving employment to many workmen. At Yaquina City wheat, and much other produce, would be shipped to the San Francisco market, en route to the wide world. The history of town is the history of railroading and tourism in Lincoln County and the development of the greater Newport area. Yaquina City, now only a memory of its boom town days of the late 19th and early 20th Century was in its heyday the largest population center in Lincoln County with almost 2,000 citizens. It was also a thriving tourist center. Although first platted just a brief seven years earlier, in 1889 Yaquina City boasted of:



(1) Downtown Newport 1912 (2) Oysterwoman Annie Rock
(3) Yaquina Bay Bridge
Good school and church privileges, a fine hotel, a sawmill, three salmon canneries, the only banking house in the county outside of Corvallis, a shipyard, custom house, telephone office, large warehouses and docks with equipment for handling freight, railway depot and yard with the company's machine shops and a number of other business establishments.
Other business establishments included Jacob's
& Neugass' General Store as well as a drug store and a meat market.
The grade school at one time reached an enrollment of 35 students, and
a teacher daily crossed the bay to teach at the rapidly growing school.
The Custom House, erected in 1881, was presided over by custom's
collector
Collins
Van Cleve and was situated about a quarter of a mile to the
north
of the dock of Yaquina City. The interests of the place being ably kept
before the public by the Yaquina Post, a newspaper originally
established
in Newport by Van Cleve in April 1882, and was moved to Yaquina City a
month later. The paper consisted of eight pages, each with five
columns,
and its force was directed chiefly to "the benefit of the bay country."
Van Cleve was born in Morgan County,
Illinois,
August 26, 1833. His father, Dr. John Van Cleve, was a Methodist
minister.
At the age of 14, Van Cleve apprenticed for the printer's trade until
the
Civil War. Following the war, he worked for the Oregonian and Portland
Times. In 1868, Van Cleve founded the Albany Register, which he edited
until 1882.
Directly across the Bay from Yaquina City
was the town of South Yaquina, but this area apparently was never
developed
to the extent of its sister city to the north. Fagan is quoted as
saying:
South Yaquina is "a town that as yet has only its name to boast of."
Yaquina post office, located about three
miles miles southeast of Newport, was established July 14, 1868, with
William
Wallace Carr first postmaster. The post office was discontinued October
25, 1869, and reestablished July 24, 1882. The office was discontinued
again May 10, 1883, and reestablished once more on December 30, 1885.
The
office became a rural station of Newport on July 31, 1961.
Yaquina Bay and Yaquina River, which heads
near the Benton-Lincoln county line, and flows into the bay, bear the
name
of the Yaquina, a small tribe of the Yakonan family, formerly living
about
Yaquina Bay. Hale gives the the name as Yakon and Yakone, in Ethnology
and Philology, 1846, p. 218; Lewis and Clark give Youikeones and
Youone;
Wilkes' Western America, 1849, gives Yacone. Another form of the word
is
Acona.
Yaquina John Point is on the south side
of the entrance to Alsea Bay just southwest of Waldport. It was named
for
Yaquina John, a chief or councillor of the Yaquina, who lived in the
vicinity
of Alsea Bay. Yahal was a Yaquina Village on the north side of the
Yaquina.
In 1912, there were a few survivors, for the greater part are of mixed
blood, on the Siletz Reservation.
Located at Toledo, the world's largest
spruce
sawmill was built by the US government in 1918 to cut spruce lumber for
airplane manufacture. The mill was later sold to C. D. Johnson Lumber
Company
(now Georgia-Pacific Corporation). The 1,500 soldiers of the Spruce
Division
who were stationed here were headquartered at Yaquina City.
Oneatta and Winant
Oneatta
is a ghost town on the northeast bank of the Yaquina, a mile and a half
upstream from Yaquina City, and about a mile west of Winant.
There are few names indelibly connected
with the history of Yaquina Bay than Capt James J. Winant (1838-1895),
who was born in upstate New York, April 12, 1838. In the fall of 1856
he
followed his brother Mark to California where they began dealing in
oysters
in San Francisco Bay; they were the real pioneers of the oyster trade
on
the Pacific Coast. Winant was master of vessels on the Pacific Coast
for
nearly a third of a century. He had command of the schooner Anna G.
Doyle,
running between Shoalwater
Bay and Oysterville, Washington, and San Francisco in the
1860s.
In 1862 or 1863, they began the oyster trade on Yaquina Bay. In June,
1882,
Winant married Amy A. Peck in Alameda County, CA. They had one child,
Anita.
Winant was located at Oysterville Station on the Corvallis &
Eastern
Railway, about two miles due south of Yaquina City, on the north bank
of
the Yaquina. The post office was established November 17, 1902, with
Emma
Leabo first postmaster. The office closed to Yaquina City November 30,
1946.
The first schooner was built by Peck &
Company, and named the Oneatta, by Kellogg Brothers, but the first
steamer
to ply on the Bay was the Pioneer, in charge of George Kellogg, MD. The
first sermon was preached by elder Gilmore Callison of Lane County, his
audience being seated on the driftwood opposite the present site of
Newport.
On the completion of the Central Railroad,
they brought from the East several car loads of eastern oysters,
planting
one car load in San Francisco Bay and the other in Yaquina Bay, and
reaped
a harvest from both beds. He traded pearls in the South Pacific and
hunted
walrus and whales along the shore of Alaska, the Aleutian Islands, and
the coast of Siberia. A salvage voyage to the coast of Mexico, where he
explored the sunken steamship City of San Francisco and recovered
$22,000
of her treasure, was the climax of his legendary career.
A little hamlet of about 60 people, Oneatta
was located on land owned by Judge Allen Parker, who was born in Ross
County,
Ohio, in 1828. His family crossed the plains in 1852, first settling in
Linn County. In 1872, Parker was elected sheriff of Linn County and
mayor
of Albany in 1876. He moved to Benton County in 1878, and purchased
considerable
property in Oneatta, on Yaquina Bay, where he owned a large sawmill. In
1880 and again in 1882, Parker was elected to the house of
representatives.
The town was first settled and named by
Siletz Indian agent Ben Simpson in 1871, and consisted of a furniture
store,
two saloons, a book and shoe store and the post office, which was
established
May 17, 1876, with John. E. Peterson first postmaster. The Oneatta
Sawmill,
owned and operated by Parker, was originally built in Simpson. It was
driven
by steam and had a capacity of 20,000 board feet per day, and gave
employment
to 14 men—most of the time—the timber cut being chiefly fir.
In 1893, the Lincoln County Leader wrote:
Owen C. Simpson is making his parents in Elk City a visit during lay off of Parker Mill at Oneatta on lower bay near Yaquina City.
The post office was discontinued July 13,
1877, and reestablished January 24, 1879. The office closed to Toledo
on
September 29, 1886.
Charles Schmidt, one of the 60 inhabitants
of Oneatta, was born in Seidelinghousen, Westphalia, Prussia, in 1843.
He emigrated to America in 1867, and spent his first year in Galena,
Illinois.
From there he moved to Sioux City, Iowa. Smith relocated San Francisco
in 1872, where he owned a popular resort called Saint Ann's Rest,
located
on Eddy Street. In 1880, he settled in Oregon. After a short stay in
Portland,
he settled at Oneatta on Yaquina Bay.
Moses Gregson, another Oneatta settler,
was born in Lancashire, England, March 4, 1836. At an early age, he
learned
the trade of carpenter and joiner, which he mastered. At the age of 20,
he emigrated to America, first settling in Lockport, New York, where he
resided until 1863 when he moved to Michigan. In the spring of 1877,
Gregson
moved to Benton County, Oregon, and first took up a claim near Mary's
Peak. In 1880, he purchased 35 acres of land near the Custom
House
at Yaquina City and opened a carpenter's shop is at Oneatta. The Custom
House is situated about a quarter of a mile north of the dock at
Yaquina
City, and was erected in 1881. The port collector was Collins Van Cleve.
In 1873, the trip from Corvallis took from
early morning till dusk at night by stage (drawn by four horses,
changed
at noon for a fresh double team) which bumped and climbed over the 49
miles
to Elk City where the mail boat waited for the 25 mile trip down the
river
and bay to Newport; leaving the next morning on the first of the ebb
tide.
Twelve miles down, the boat stopped at Toledo, then at Oneatta, and
finally
at Newport, at a rickety wharf in front of Bay View Hotel (latter
renamed
the Abbey). At the other end of town was Ocean House, which is the
Coast
Guard station now. In between were four saloons, a store, over which
was
a hall used for dances, political meetings, and—more rarely—church
services
whenever a minister of the Gospel happened along. Near the sand path up
the hill to the beach of land occupied by the Ocean House, took a
building
quite imposing when compared to the rest of the town. The community was
named for an Indian princess of legendary beauty and virtue, described
by Alfred B.
Meacham,
in Wigwam and Warpath. A possible candidate for Princess Oneatta is
Oneatta
Reynolds Jones (1885-1912) who is buried at Toledo
Cemetery. She was the wife of Everett Jones and the grandmother
of Julia A. Parker. Col. Meacham was a member of the Modoc Peace
Commission.
In 1863, he established the Blue Mountain in the Eastern Oregon town
that
bears his name, just outside the borders of the Umatilla
Reservation. In 1873, he was wounded when he and fellow peace
commissioners,
Canby and Thomas, were advancing under a flag of truce in an effort to
reach peaceful settlement to the bloody and costly Modoc
War. His life was saved by the intervention of the peace loving
Winema, at the risk of her own. Married at an early age to a
non-indian,
Winema mastered the English language and became an interpreter and
intermediary
in negotiations between her people and their conquerors. For her
devotion
to th cause of peace, Congress later voted her a life pension. The
Klamath
Falls chapter of the DAR has erected over her grave in Schonchin
Cemetery
a tablet bearing the inscription, "Winema—The
Strong Heart."
Corvallis & Eastern Railroad
The railroad from Corvallis made this
bustling
population center possible—and 500 Chinese laborers working for minimal
wages made the railroad possible. Construction of the Corvallis
& Eastern Railroad, which had its eastern terminus in
Corvallis,
but with eventual plans to extend it east of the Cascades, was begun in
1877. It was built by a corporation called the Willamette
Valley & Coast Railroad—later changed to the Oregon Pacific
Railroad—and was directed by Colonel T. Egenton Hogg and his brother,
William
Hoag. While the two brothers had convinced the population of the
feasibility
of eventually extending the railroad to Newport, they apparently had no
intention of ever extending the track beyond Yaquina City. By platting
and subdividing the city for themselves, it appears that they probably
expected or hoped to make a fortune on real estate sales.
After considerable difficulties involving
mismanagement of funds, striking workmen and natural disasters such as
land slides, as well as tunnel cave-ins, the railroad was finally
completed
in 1884. Not until 1885, however, did a train complete the trip over
the
whole line.

Financial problems continued to plague the
venture in 1892. In 1894, A. B. Hammond purchased the railroad as the
highest
bidder of $100,000. He renamed it the Oregon Central & Eastern
Railroad.
However, in 1897, when he gave up the idea of extending the railroad
east
of the Cascades, he once again renamed it as it was originally
known—the
Corvallis & Eastern Railroad.
John Henry Penn was the first mail clerk
on the train and was assisted by Charles L. Litchfield (1867-1950)
whose
son, George Kenneth (1906-2000), is a prominent Newport attorney today
(1976).
Among the early residents of Yaquina City
were the parents and grandparents of Lucy Blue, who has written much of
the history of this area.
With the advent of the railroad, tourism
in Lincoln County became an established fact which has lasted as an
important
industry to the present time. On July 4, 1895, the Oregon Pacific
announced
its first grand excursion from Corvallis to the coast. On many weekends
for years thereafter the steamer meeting the train at Yaquina City
could
not carry all the tourists down the Bay to Newport where it docked
directly
across the street from the old Abbey Hotel. Small launches, and even
rowboats,
would take up the overflow of tourists heading for Newport. Also, the
steamer
meeting passengers at the end of the railroad in Yaquina City
eventually
made connections in Newport with a coastal steamer to San Francisco.
The revolution in the transportation
industry
with the coming of the automobile brought about the decline of Yaquina
City. In the 1950s, the post office, located for many years in "Yaquina
Pete" Rasmussen's general store, was finally phased out; and later the
store itself was closed. This weathered old building still stands.
Yaquina City was situated behind where
Sawyer's
Landing is located, and near Fairline Marine, where 500 ton vessels are
lifted out of the bay for maintenance and repairs.
Chapter 29: Chitwood
The Chitwood
area was a primeval wilderness in the 1860s when Meeky M. (1846-? IA)
and
Mathias
L. Trapp (1838-? MO) settled on a land claim a short distance
below
where the town was located. Life was lonely for Meeky Trapp until the
Barney
Morrisons settled nearby. In the years to come, more hardy pioneers
came
to cut the trees and till the soil. Some already had families and more
children were born after they settled. The need for a schoolhouse soon
became evident. A house with one large room half a mile west of
Chitwood
was used for that purpose. It had a fireplace at one end, which served
as the only source of heat. Because nobody had time to cut firewood the
approximate length to fit the fireplace, the teacher, Thomas J.
Brannan,
poked the ends of large branches into the blaze and moved them farther
in as they burned, much like a Yule log. There were no desks or work
tables.
The students sat on benches and did their schoolwork on slates propped
in their laps.
Hardships caused some of the settlers to
move out of the area; and the student population dropped. Trapp offered
the use of a room in his home and hired a teacher who lived in.
In 1887 a schoolhouse was built. It was
located near Chitwood, and was built by volunteer labor. The building
became
a community center where box socials, committee meetings, formal group
get-togethers, Christmas parties and weddings were held. Evangelists
held
revival meetings in the schoolhouse. A collection of books donated by
residents
became the nucleus of a growing library shortly after the turn of the
century.
Grace Davis served as librarian.
During the early years, Seventh Day
Adventists
wanted a church which could double as a school. Lumber was scarce, and
the dream had to be postponed. Then the old church at Storrs was
dismantled
and the material was hauled to Chitwood by a sturdy pair of oxen owned
by Flora May Akey (1864-1948) and Lafe F. Pepin (1850-1917)—Lep and
Lion—which
were best for hauling on the deeply rutted, muddy roads. That is, until
the railroad came, bringing Paer A. Miller (1854-1915 Sweden) with it.
Paer Anderson
He had been Paer Anderson in Sweden, but
for the sake of simplification in America, he became Paer A. Miller for
the rest of his life.
He lived at Chitwood while the Corvallis
& Eastern Railroad was being built, but was soon transferred to
Mill
City, a lumber camp near Albany in the Willamette Valley and helped
build
some of the bridges crossing Santiam River. He became dissatisfied with
this job because it kept him away from home where his wife was
expecting
their first child. He applied for a job of track maintenance on the
Chitwood
line. His request was granted six months after his daughter was born.
P.
A. Miller and his family moved to a train stop called Morrison Station,
located below Chitwood. It was close enough for Lillie Miller to go to
school.
Miller did well on his job and improved
his small home. When his family expanded with the birth of two sons, he
built a larger house.
The wagon road was a mud hole in winter,
and a dust bowl in summer. When the first automobiles began to filter
in,
one car would raise so much dust that another couldn't follow behind
it.
But the mud in the winter didn’t stop the section foreman. He had
access
to a handcar, which was a tiny, four-wheeled platform that ran on
rails,
powered by a handle bar worked up and down like a see-saw. For one man,
the see-sawing was backbreaking; for two men, it was a breeze.
P. A. Miller to the Rescue
It was P. A. Miller's job to take care of
any emergencies. When called upon for illness or birth, he would jump
on
the handcar and pump madly to Elk City where the doctor, Franklin M.
Carter,
lived. Then he and the doctor would see-saw back to the crisis center.
Most of these calls came at night, so there was little danger on the
rails
from trains. When Elk City no longer could support a doctor, Miller had
to pump the handcar all the way to Toledo.
When Lillie Miller started school in
Chitwood,
she and other children walked the railroad ties to avoid the muddy road.
Coming home from school one day, the
children
came upon a pile of glowing embers where the section crew had been
burning
old ties. The children put more wood on the dying fire and fanned it to
a blaze. As Lillie stooped low over the flames, her dress caught on
fire.
She ran back to school in a panic. It was fortunate the teacher was
still
there. She tore off the little girl's clothing and rolled her in a
coat.
Lillie's recovery from the severe burns was slow.
Pioneer Quarry
Around that time, a San Francisco prospector discovered a fine vein of sandstone at Pioneer Quarry near Elk City. The material was deemed most suitable for construction of the mint and post office in the bay area city. The Corvallis & Eastern Railroad ran a spur line into the quarry. The sandstone was cut and loaded by hand on flat cars and hauled to Yaquina City. From there, it was transshipped on vessels to San Francisco. The sandstone industry caused quite an influx of workers for a time.
Rural Telephone Company 1905
In 1905 a movement was started for a
telephone
line to serve Chitwood, as the telegraph was felt to be inadequate. It
was P. A. Miller's responsibility to see that the long stretch of track
was kept in good repair. In order to do his job well, Miller needed
better
communications with those who lived along the route. So on December 14,
1905, the Rural Telephone Company was organized. The list of members
included
P. A. Miller, Lafe F. Pepin, Charles S. (1857-1941), Dudley Trapp, and
Willmore N. Cook (1864-1946). The office and switchboard was set up in
the W. E. Durkee house. Grace Davis took over the switchboard as
operator.
At first the line went only to Morrison Station. Soon it expanded and
connected
to the outside world for long distance calls.
For years, the Chitwood post office was
in the store was owned by Hattie A. (1838-1890) W. E. Durkee (1838-1928
WI), a crippled Civil War veteran. George T. Smith (1864-1942) was
postmaster
and general store manager. Later the post office was transferred to a
little
building. The post office is no longer there, but the pigeon-hole racks
still hang on the walls where they held letters.
The Corvallis & Eastern Railroad
More than any other factor, the coming of
the Corvallis & Eastern Railroad changed things for Chitwood, which
was named after Joshua B. Chitwood, who lived near the site where the
railroad
was built between 1881 and 1885.
In 1879, Chitwood, a widower, bought 160
acres and his son Albert filed on a nearby homestead. Chitwood became
the
first postmaster, railroad station agent, and started the first grocery
store facing the tracks. He sold this store to Laura A. Parker
(1855-1900
IL) and Marion T. Whitney (1846-1927 IN) whose daughter, Maude
(1879-1954),
married George T. Smith. The store was bought by the Smiths and moved
to
the end of the bridge. It is now closed to business but is trying to
tell
stories.
Chitwood's daughter, Alisa married David
Turnicliff (1812-1885) who lived in or near Chitwood. Turnicliff, a
Civil
War veteran from Illinois, died and was buried in the Elk
City Cemetery. By 1885, Albert's wife, Nancy, had died. Their
children,
Frank and Bertha V., were taken to Alisa Turnicliff who was running a
boardinghouse
in Chitwood.
In 1892, Albert married Onie Allphin, the
sister of Emma A. McBride (1862-1952). They moved to a homestead on
Simpson
Creek, now the home of Mabel Parker and Ernest Cook. They had the
misfortune
of a fire that destroyed the entire household and Albert was burned. In
a letter, Onie tells of the help she received from the Cook family,
Hattie
and Ed Durkee, her aunt, Margaret Lewis (1838-1910 Wales), Emma
McBride,
Sarah Barnes (1846-1913), P. A. Miller and the Whitneys. Pioneers cared
for the unfortunate though it may have been a sacrifice to their needs.
When travel was confined to the wagon road,
the stagecoaches sometimes got through and sometimes they didn’t, all
depending,
of course, on the weather.
When the stages did get through, they were
useful. A man with a freshly killed deer carcass who lacked flour could
wrap up a hind quarter in a sack, take the stage to Corvallis, make a
trade
in the store for flour, and return home by stage.
In his October 11, 1977 letter to the
author,
Ernest E. Chitwood of Sylmar, California, wrote:
I spent my childhood in this area. I was born on his fathers homestead near the hamlet of Chitwood in 1894. Franklin M. Carter, the Siletz Reservation doctor, was "master-of-ceremonies" at my birth, and also facilitated my sister's birth. My father was the first Chitwood to locate on Yaquina River. My grandfather, Joshua B. Chitwood—for whom the settlement was named—followed him there shortly afterwards. When the Southern Pacific Railroad began operations, he was the first general store owner, railroad station agent, and postmaster. My paternal uncle and aunt also moved to Chitwood, and later my grandfather's brother, James Chitwood, and his son, Delman J. Chitwood, who was both a carpenter and a teacher, made their homes there. He and his family lived there until 1905, at which time they moved to Eddyville, where they lived until 1909.
Ira O. Chitwood of Corbin, Kentucky has prepared records on all four Chitwood brothers who came to the US. He plans to publish one huge or four smaller books on the four branches of the family. The Lincoln County branch, according to Ira Chitwood, descends from Joshua Chitwood's brother James T. (1825-1902 IN).
Chitwood Station
When the railroad from Corvallis to
Yaquina
City was completed, Chitwood became an important stop. The little depot
was close by the general store and the post office. Train time was
always
the highlight of the townspeople’s day. Outgoing mail sacks were thrown
on board, and the incoming ones were taken off.
Since George Smith was a butcher as well
as a grocer, there was always a smelly bale of cowhides ready for
shipping.
Sacks of dried and crushed cascara bark and cords of wood were stacked
beside the tracks for train crews to load as fuel for the boiler.
Cutters
got 90 cents a cord. And trains brought large shipments of good for the
store.
Most of the items were available at George
Smith's general store. If he didn’t have a particular item, he would
send
for it, and it would come in on the train from Corvallis.
Smith's Apiary
Like so many early settlers, bee keeping
was an important part of the economy of Chitwood. George Smith owned an
apiary and sold a complete line of supplies—hives, supers and Queen
bees—to
his neighbors, all of whom had orchards like the Eddys, Grants, Hodges
and Millers.
He sold meat, but allowed customers to use
his facilities for their own slaughtering.
Smith's Son
Smith's son, Morris, grew up and went to
school at Chitwood. When he was old enough to work, he did odd jobs. At
the age of 24, he got a steady job at another, later stone quarry,
where
the stone was regularly blasted out of a solid vein.
One day, Morris Smith went to the cook shack
for lunch which had been delayed for the scheduled noon blast. This
time
a shower of badly placed rocks overhead came hurtling down through the
mess hall roof. His leg was pinned to the floor, and was crushed from
the
ankle to above the knee, which was left rigid, and the ankle almost as
after a year of hospitalization.
When Morris Smith left the hospital, he
found the Great Depression (1929-1939) in full swing. He was happy to
accept
his father's offer to take him into the store business, while his leg
gradually
improved. He cultivated berries and orchard fruit near the store. The
produce
was sold locally or—with honey—sold to the coast resort at Newport.
Lillie Miller Leaves Chitwood
Like Morris Smith, the tragedy that
struck
Lillie Miller took a long time to heal.
She attended Toledo High School, 13 miles
away, when she graduated from the Chitwood Grade School. After the fist
lonely year, she took courses at home. Later on, she taught in several
of the small area schools. She saved her money and took a summer course
at Oregon Agricultural Collage at Corvallis. Later, she taught school
at
West
Linn across the Willamette from Oregon
City, and graduated from the University of Oregon at Eugene. A
few years later she married Charles A. Nutt and moved to Portland.
Wagon Road Paved
When the old wagon road was rerouted and
paved, the improvement was welcomed in Chitwood. Cars used the new,
shorter
route to the Pacific Coast, and soon nobody was riding the train. With
increasingly large tonnage of freight shipped by truck, the railroad
reduced
service to a minimum and completely discontinued passenger service. The
depot at Chitwood was torn down. Many people moved away. Now the larger
stores and markets were readily reached by automobile, and the general
store owners were forced to close their doors. The general stores at Blodgett,
Burnt Woods and Elk City are still open, offering gasoline and
alcoholic
beverages for the tourists who pass by—in automobiles.
Although a few faithful residents remain,
Chitwood is virtually a ghost town.
Trapp Creek
Lillie and Dudley Trapp, descendent of
pioneer
settlers, were married December 16, 1889, in a farmhouse by a Methodist
minister named Smith.
Lillie's parents crossed the plains in 1846.
She was born February 25, 1867 at Mount View near Corvallis.
The pioneers of 1847 who eventually staked
claims currently encompassed, wholly or partially, by the Corvallis
city
limits included Dudley's grandfather, John Trapp, J. P. Freidly and
David
Butterfield. John Trapp settled his claim in 1847. Dudley was born
January
17, 1864, on his grandfather's donation land claim.
Dudley Trapp grew up on a ranch In Lincoln
County near Chitwood. The stream running through their place, called
Trapp
Creek, was named for his family. It is located in the Coast Range a
little
over one mile west of Chitwood.
Dudley Trapp Stagecoach Driver
In 1881, Dudley left home and worked
farms
and other jobs.
In the summer of 1884, he drove stagecoach
over the main route between Corvallis and Pioneer, near Elk City. He
drove
a spring wagon—a two-horse rig—which tipped over easily.
There were plenty of Indians along the
route,
and they were friendly and peaceable.
Charley Hogue "No Relation"
On his fourth trip, he had five men and
an
Indian woman as passengers. The coach hit a bump and the passengers and
mail bags were thrown in one heap on the road. By the time Dudley got
straightened
out on the ground, the Indian woman was sitting right smack dab on
Charley
Hogue. They loaded up mr Hogue, the Oregon Pacific's paymaster, who
swapped
seats and got a gentleman for a partner.
Charley Hogue was not related to the
promoters
of the railroad company, but it reminds one that two of them were
Colonel
T. Egenton Hogg and his brother, William Hoag, who changed his name to
Hoag to avoid embarrassment. The colonel wouldn’t consider such an
alteration,
stating emphatically that "I was born a Hogg and will die a Hogg!"
Trapp Moves On
After three years driving the stagecoach,
Trapp went to Philomath
College. Although their families knew one another, Lillie and
Dudley
never met until they attended college together.
Dudley was employed as a logger during the
summers. He worked for the Oregon Pacific Railroad for five years,
following
three years of work in Roseburg for the Southern Pacific Bridges &
Buildings Department. He homesteaded 35 years at Chitwood where he ran
a Roan Durham dairy. In 1931 he went to Orlando, Washington, and worked
a fruit orchard with his brother for six years.
The couple moved to Portland in 1937. They
both loved gardening: Dudley raised vegetables, and Lillie raised
flowers.
The Trapps were avid followers of world
events. They remembered Grover Cleveland (1885-1889; 1893-1897) and
Woodrow
Wilson (1913-1921) as good presidents. Franklin Delano Roosevelt
(1933-1945),
who they considered an average, run-of-the-mill president, did not
impress
them.
The couple's children, Della and Walter,
were employed as eighth grade teacher and locomotive engineer
respectively,
until their retirement.
Morris X. Smith: Chitwood's Johnny Appleseed
The homestead of early pioneers Meekey
and
Mathias Trapp is located where the Macombers live now, and their son
Dudley
lived across the Yaquina. Later on, there was a barn where the
stagecoach
stopped and brought passengers and mail. I remember the barn. It was
later
torn down and a big dairy barn was built in its place.
Trapp knew the value of having a teacher
for his children, Dudley (1864-? OR), Effie (1868-? OR), and Chauncy,
but
no school district had been organized. There was no schoolhouse in
Chitwood,
so he hired a teacher from town who lived right there at the house to
teach
them. Eventually the neighbors decided they'd like to have their
children
take advantage of this opportunity too. They made an agreement with
Trapp
that, for a small fee to help out with board and room and wages for the
teacher, their children could be educated too.

Near Chitwood where Harringtons raise
garlic
now, there was a one-room house with a fireplace that wasn't occupied
at
the time. In the meantime, more families moved to the area with grade
school
children, and the little house was converted into a community
schoolhouse.
In the wintertime when they needed fire
for heat, nearby farmers cut wood for the school. Fallen fir trees,
vine
maple, alder and wild cherry was loaded up in wagons and taken to the
school.
In the morning they'd start the fire. Then they'd drag a long log in
and
stick an end in the fireplace. When that was burned off and they needed
more heat, they'd push the log in further.
There used to be a planing mill near the
railroad. There's still an old metal coal-type burner there. That's
where
the first schoolhouse sat. My mother, whose name was Maude Whitney, was
in the first eighth grade that graduated from Chitwood.
When she came there in 1892, she was nine
years old. My mother, one or two of her sisters, and some of the Pepin
boys all went to school together.
This is interesting. I've got an autograph
book made in Germany that belonged to my mother. The first entry reads:
My dear daughter, if anyone speaks evil of you let your life be so that no one will believe him. Your dad, Marion T. Whitney, Chitwood, Oregon, February 23, 1896
Here's another one written in 1893:
Dear schoolmate, may your life be full of sunshine or just enough alloy to teach you to appreciate the blessings you enjoy. Your friend, Iva Rogers
This one was written by Elijah Gaither, the grandfather of Terrance Gaither who operates the Ford Motor Company in Newport. He was a Lincoln County judge for a long time:
Best wishes of your teacher. Elijah Gaither, Chitwood, Oregon, 1894
This one was written by Maggie Hampton, one of the very first primary schoolteachers in Lincoln County. She passed away within the past two or three years:
If you meet with one pursuing ways the wrong have entered in working out its own undoing with sin, think to this sinful disposition would a kind word be in vein? Will you look with cold suspicion, will you back the truth again? Maggie L. Hampton, Rocca, Oregon, July 17, 1899
Rocca isn't even written up in the book,
Western Ghost Town Shadows, because it didn't last very long as a post
office, and there isn't very much information about it. If you're
coming
from Siletz it's located east towards Logsden on Rock Creek just before
Valsetz
in Polk County.


What I do know is that when the office was
first proposed it was planned to have Sam Center act as postmaster, but
as he was moving from the neighborhood, other arrange, Mary Rocca
Center.
This girl had been named for a friend of her mother who had married an
Italian. The office was established April 30, 1895. It closed to
Nortons
on August 31, 1918. It was one of the many offices to serve an isolated
group of homes with mail three times a week. Gertrude Chamberlain
Phillips
said her grandfather, Richard James Robinson, carried the mail from Nortons
to Rocca on horseback during the winter and by buggy during the summer.
Maggie Hampton was the postmaster for several years.

Maggie Hampton and her sister lived there
in their parents' old home. She hauled the lumber for the house from
Nortons.
I remember an orchard on the Hampton with
all varieties of apples, filberts and hickory nuts. There was a chicken
yard up on the hill. I went deer hunting up there one time with a
friend
of mine.
This is a good one:
We shall part but not forever. There'll be a glorious bond. We shall meet to part no never on the resurrection morn. From the darkest peaks of ocean, from the mountain and the plain, from the hillside and the valley, countless storms shall rise again. Yours truly, Lulu Harrington, 1898
How about this one:
When the golden sun is setting and your mind from care is free, when of others you are thinking, will you sometimes think of me? Your Schoolmate, Elsie Logsden, April 22, 1893
One more:
I slept and dreamt that life was beauty; I woke and found that life was beauty. Your sister, Neva J. Whitney
My sister, Neva, taught one or two years.
She went to school at Monmouth and got a job teaching grade school in
Tillamook.
The first year there she got sick and passed away. She's buried along
with
my parents, Maude and George Smith, my grandparents, and my brother at
Chitwood Cemetery.
M. L. Trapp had two sons. One was Chauncy.
In later years, he was the conductor on the freight train. He operated
a steam locomotive and every day I'd see him go by. The oldest son was
Dudley. When he was 14 or 15 years old, he rode a saddle horse and
delivered
the mail from Corvallis to various stations in the area. The line
didn't
come by way of Burnt Woods so it didn't pass through Summit, Nashville
and Nortons. Chitwood wasn't a mail station then. We got our mail at
Eddyville,
Elk City, or perhaps Toledo. Later on, Dudley delivered the mail by
stagecoach.
The old stagecoach crossed the river at
the Raymond Kinion place and from there to Trapp Creek. It followed a
southeasterly
course up over the hill past the old Larsen place, and from there on to
Elk City. Before it came down the ridge by Elk City Cemetery which
located
on a hill above the home now owned by Evelyn Schriver. It turned up
another
ridge at the Seymour Scoville place, three miles up the Yaquina from
Elk
City. Down at the river bottom were two hotels at a place called
Pioneer
and that was the end of the stagecoach line.
Pioneer is also the head of tidewater.
Finally,
Elk City replaced it as the end of the stagecoach line because many
times
people would have to wait there. Boats couldn't pick them up because of
low tide. At Elk City you could get out with boat service just about
any
time, because the Yaquina is deeper there.