![]()
Lincoln
County
Place
Names
Compiled
By
M.Constance
Guardino
III
![]()
January 2013
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(1) Deer
Creek
Bridge (2)
Historians Connie & Del Hodges (3) Newport Courthouse
(4) Molly
Catfish
& Mary Yanna
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Agate Beach,
the sea beach about three miles north of Newport, just below
Yaquina
Head,
has long been noted for the very fine agates found there, and
was named
to call attention to one of the principal attractions of
beachcombing
in
the area. Beachcombing is at its best during the winter, when
winter
waves,
high seas and runoff carry sand off the beaches, uncovering
treasures.
Also, storms carry in objects lost at sea. Among the
possibilities are
trash from ships, packing crates, floats, driftwood, shells,
fossils—
and
agates. The Central Oregon Coast is prime agate-hunting
territory.
Agates
are beautiful, translucent rocks. Before the Ice Ages,
silicates,
oxides
and metals were squeezed into existing earth forms to create
these
quartzes,
also known as chalcedony. More oxides and minerals create the
red,
amber
and blue tones, sometimes forming a banded or mottled pattern.
Some
agates
contain fossilized clams, snails and shark’s teeth. Agate Beach
lives
up
to its name as the area with the greatest concentration of these
rocks.
Dealers in Newport make a specialty of cutting and polishing
these
stones.
The beach north of Seal Rock and mouths of freshwater streams
and
rivers
are also good places. Some of the best are Cummins Creek, Bob
Creek,
Nye
Beach, Ona Beach, Smelt Sands and Squaw Creek. In 1883, John
Fitzpatrick,
an Ireland-born man who, by all accounts, was an easy-going
gentleman
with
a flair for investing in profitable pieces of land, purchased an
18-acre
woodland lot near Agate Beach. During the beginning of what
would
become
the 19th century’s worst economic depression, Fitzpatrick built
the
Monterey
Hotel on his 18-acre parcel of land, which was surrounded by
more than
100 acres of forest. Popular with bathers and tourists from
Salem, the
hotel enjoyed extreme prosperity during its first year in
business.
Then,
for reasons “far more intriguing than simple economics,” the
hotel’s
business
dropped and the tragedies began. Less than two years after the
Monterey’s
construction, Fitzpatrick was dead from pneumonia and, shortly
thereafter,
his 25-year-old daughter, Sarah Fitzpatrick, was found shot to
death in
one of the hotel’s grand rooms. Today, the 18 acres is owned by
the
state
and acts as a picnic and beach-access park for Agate Beach’s
visitors.
In 1912, Colonel Hofer built Madinore, the first house at Agate
Beach.
Other people from Salem followed and built homes, the Pattons,
the
Livesleys,
Thielsens, the Bushes, and Florence Bynon’s brother Mac built a
house
to
the south of Madinore. Agate Beach post office was established
Apr. 18,
1912 with John G. Mackey serving as first postmaster. The office
closed
to Newport on Aug. 20, 1971. Swiss-born composer Ernest Bloch
(1880-1959)
spent the last years of his life in the Newport area. Bloch had
a long
and illustrious career, both in Europe and the US. From 1911 to
1915,
Bloch
taught at the Geneva Conservatory. He migrated to the US in
1916, and
founded
the Cleveland Institute of Music in 1920. Bloch was naturalized
in
1924,
and served as the director of the Cleveland Institute until
1925. He
was
director of the San Francisco Conservatory of Music from 1925 to
1930.
Bloch’s compositions included works on Jewish themes, such as
Trois
Poémes
Juifs (1913); Israel (1916); Schelomo (1916); Baal Shem (1923);
and
Avodath
Hakodesh (1933). He built a beautiful home on the shore at Agate
Beach,
a picturesque spot on the Oregon Coast which helped to inspire
some of
his last works including his Symphony In E Flat, Proclamation
For
Trumpet
and Orchestra and his fifth (and final) String Quartet. Bloch’s
other
works
included Hiver-Printemps (1905); Macbeth (1910); Suite for Viola
and
Piano
(1919); Quintet for Piano and Strings (1923); America (1926);
Suite
Symphonique
(1944); and Scherzo Fantasque (1948). Today his memory is
carried on
through
the Ernest Bloch Music Festival which is held annually in July.
Angora post
office,
established
Dec. 5, 1898, was located on the Alsea River a few miles
downstream
from
Alsea. It was in the southeast part of T13S, R9W, on or near
Fall Creek
at a point not far above the mouth of the stream. Oscar Tom (or
Otto
Dickoff)
was first postmaster of the Angora office, was named for the
goats
raised
in the vicinity. The office was rescinded Jan. 20, 1899 and
re-established
Mar. 5, 1900. The Angora office closed to Alsea on Jun. 29,
1907. There
was another Angora post office in Coos County was formerly known
as
Enchanted.
That office was located on a small prairie near Middle Fork
Coquille
River,
about four miles east of Bridge. Rollin S. Belknap was first
postmaster
of the Angora office, which closed to Oak on May 5, 1894.
Axtell post
office,
located
on Yachats River about six miles east of Yachats, was
established May
6,
1891, with John D. Axtell first postmaster. The office closed to
Waldport
Sep. 15, 1903. While nothing was left to mark the locality in
1968, the
USFS had constructed a small fish ladder near the mouth of
Axtell Creek
to improve spawning access.
Barber post
office,
located
on Elk Creek about three miles northwest of Harlan, was
established
Mar.
30, 1911, with Clarinda Barber, first postmaster. The office,
named for
the Barber family, closed to Elk City Jan. 31, 1912.
Beaver Creek: In
1976,
Hester Hill Coovert Rogers wrote: “My grandfather was Cabell
Adair
Breckenridge
Patterson. He was called “Cab” for short. He married my
grandmother,
Arseneon
P. Tureman. Their oldest son died six months before my mother,
Harriet
E. Patterson Hill (1847-1931), was born. Cab Patterson’s mother
was a
Quaker,
Lovely Truitt. The family moved to Kentucky from nearby
Philadelphia
where
they first settled. Grandpa was one of a family of six children.
He was
a descendent of the 13 Patterson brothers who migrated to
America
during
the time of American colonist Wm. Penn (1644-1718). The
Pattersons were
calvinists. In my family, the oldest son is always named “Wm.”
Grandpa
was named Cab because he wasn’t the oldest son. There was a Wm.
Patterson
at the battle of Valley Forge (1777-1778) who fought for gen.
Geo.
Washington
(1732-1799). He was a continental who was enlisted for the
duration of
the American Revolution. Lovely Patterson sent Wm. II, who was
12 years
old, to Valley Forge to deliver socks, food and other provisions
to the
Washington’s soldiers. Cab’s son, Wm., moved to Kentucky, and
was a
private
in the war of 1812. Grandma was an abolitionist. She begged her
spouse
to free their slaves, and told them to get out of slave
territory, as
she
saw trouble was coming. One of the slaves became a good
blacksmith. He
earned enough money to purchase his wife and son and fled to
Cincinnati,
OH. The family moved to Illinois to escape slavery in the South.
Mother’s
family, the Truemans were Germans who migrated to America when
John Q.
Adams (1735-1826) was president. The large family settled in
Illinois.
My father was Saml. Hill. He was born in Kentucky, and was the
son of
Nancy
Watters and Philip Hill. His parents died when he was 12 years
old,
while
the family was living in California. An uncle-in-law took all
the
property
he could quickly sell and left my orphaned family alone.
Neighbors
found
some wild cattle to sell, and gave dad the money. He started for
Oregon
with his pony, but ran into three cousins when he stopped to
camp along
the trail. They took him back to California. Later on, the
applied for
a donation land claim in Oregon, but did not prove up on his
claim. He
joined the confederacy, and the last letter from him was sent
out
secretly
from Vicksburg (1863). That battle, a union victory, was the
turning
point
of the Civil War. Before settling at Beaver Creek, near Seal
Rock, he
was
hired by a woman to ferry her cattle across the river in Salem.
He took
land on the South Beaver side of the hill next to Harriet
Patterson’s
claim.
They were married after mother’s brother, Corlis “Ike”
Patterson, was
killed
at South Beach while working for the government on the jetties.
This
particular
Corlis was buried on the old homestead; the others are buried at
Fernridge
Cemetery, Seal Rock.” In 1966, Florence Payne Howell wrote: “The
Payne
family moved to Beaver Creek in May, 1921. They owned the
original
patent
of Sam Warfield. It was spoken of as “Mrs. Hulse’s Place” from
May 1921
until the final papers were turned over to Chas. Zeek and his
wife in
1955
or 1956. Dances were frequent in the downstairs of the house. It
wasn’t
long before the building was becoming unsound for the activity
of a
room
full of dancing. After some worry, they decided to use heavy
iron rods
across the downstairs ceiling which took out the sway. Horrey
Woods and
Geo. Ryan played the violin, as did many others. Herman Webber
played
piano,
and Neta Phelps was very good to play long hours on the piano.
Frank
Gatens
called many of the square dances. Guy Twombly could call a dance
when
things
were dull. The most fascinating dancer to me was an old lady who
really
danced with glee! I thought the dances were a bit noisy, but
after I
learned
all of them I really loved them.” Bay post office was
established May
16,
1948 as a contract station of Newport. The office was
discontinued Dec.
31, 1949.
Bayview is located
on
the northeast part of Alsea Bay. The post office was established
Aug.
8,1901,
and the name was chosen by Danl. M. Oakland (1890-1929), the
first
postmaster,
because of the view of Alsea Bay that could be had from where
the
office
then stood. The office closed to Toledo Dec. 31, 1941. Oakland
is
buried
at Tidewater Cemetery, as is E. E. Dyer (1861-1925), who also
served as
Bayview postmaster at a later date.
Bellamy post
office,
established May 24, 1898, was located four or five miles north
of
Toledo
on the road to Siletz. Ola A. Tveitmoe first postmaster of this
office,
and the postal facilities were intended for a small colony of
Scandinavians
living in the vicinity. The Bellamy office closed to Toledo on
Jun. 15,
1899.
Beverly Beach is a small
community
north of Yaquina Head and Beverly Beach State Park adjoins it on
the
north.
In 1981, Florence May Christy wrote: “During the early 1930s my
husband,
Curtis E. Christy, and I owned the property which is now known
as
Beverly
Beach, Lincoln County, Oregon. Our goal was to establish a small
seaside
community on this property. In choosing a name for this site my
daughter,
Florence Daneene Christy Pearson, who at that time was a small
child,
was
asked what she would like to call the community. Her favorite
doll at
that
time was Beverly, and her choice of that name established the
location
as Beverly Beach, which it has remained to this day.” In 1920,
Lester
Martin
and C. B. Ryckman organized the Ocean Park Campground and Trout
Farm
and
declared their intention to sell a limited amount of stock.
Their plans
also called for at least 50 cabins and a playground. The
development of
Ocean Park, which was located about where Beverly Beach State
Park is
now,
coincided with construction of the Roosevelt Military Highway
(US-101).
At that time, the highway snaked its way through the nearby
foothills
east
of its present location. The site chosen for Ocean Park was
convenient
for travelers, as the highway ran right through the grounds.
Five years
later, the partners announced the completion of a new dam that
created
a lake that, when filled, would cover 34 acres with six feet of
water.
The partners claimed the new lake, along with their other lakes,
held
enough
water to sustain 10,000,000 trout. In Jan. 1925, 1.8 million
trout were
hatched at their facility, which by this time had become a mecca
for
authorities
on fish and hatcheries. By 1925, the trout farm and campground
had been
supplemented with a bathhouse, store, restaurant and cottages
with
access
to the beach. Picture postcards from about 1930 document that
ocean
Park
also kept a bear mascot chained up on the grounds. It is not
known
exactly
when the trout farm and resort came to an end, but relocation of
the
highway
may have been a deadly blow for this privately owned attraction.
The
state
acquired lands for what would become Beverly Beach State Park
campground
in 1942 and 1943. This was shortly after construction began on
the
present-day
route of US-101. In Oct. 1952, the state awarded a $23,817
contract for
construction of an overnight camping area at Spencer Creek,
which flows
into the Pacific Ocean at Ocean Park about a mile south of Otter
Rock.
This creek was named for Doke Spencer, an Indian who lived near
its
mouth.
Spencer and his family were allotted land in this locality.
According
to
a 1957 newspaper article, Beverly Beach State park opened as a
park in
1953. At that time it was just 17 acres with 32 campsites, 12
trailer
spaces
and a separate parking area. The park has since grown to more
than 103
acres. This 129-acre site camp and day use area now attracts in
excess
of 300,000 visitors annually. While the simple pleasure of trout
fishing
in a convenient artificial pond has been long lost, the
present-day
park
at Spencer Creek continues to be a popular attraction for
coastal
visitors.
Boyer is located
in the
extreme northeast section of Lincoln County, on OR-18, about
eight
miles
east of Rose Lodge and one mile from the county line. The post
office,
named for pioneer settlers Julia and John Boyer, was established
Aug.
18,
1910, with Mervin O. Boyer first postmaster. The office closed
to Rose
Lodge Mar. 31, 1915. In 1908, Julia and John Boyer settled near
here.
Phil
Sheridan Road was probably built in 1856 while Sheridan was on
police
patrol
duty at Ft. Yamhill. It facilitated necessary travel via the Old
Elk
Trail,
ocean beaches, and Siletz River to the Siletz Indian Agency, and
an
attempt
was made to make the Old Elk Trail a toll road as early as 1860.
Other
desultory attempts followed and in 1908, John Boyer improved the
route,
over which people had used to crossed the Coast Range since
antiquity,
and established the Salmon River Toll Road. which he and Julia
Boyer
operated
for 12 years. In winter the road was almost impassable. In 1930,
Boyer
was honored at a public ceremony as “Father of the Salmon River
Road.”
Burnt Woods post
office
is in the eastern part of Lincoln County, near Tumtum River,
where the
remains of forest fires are still much in evidence. The office
was
established
in 1919, and a list of suggested names was sent to the Post
Office
Department.
On the list was Burnt Woods, proposed by H. G. Downing, and this
was
the
name chosen by authorities. Early Tumtum (Burnt Woods) School
stood in
back of the present store on the road to Harlan. The teacher in
1910
was
Ida Hurley. Students were Clara Downing, Grant Downing, Mae
Downing,
who
married Rbt. Richardson, Emily Harris, who married Archie
McFarland,
Ada
McDowell, who married Morty Lake of Peak, Lavern McDowell,
Lester
McDowell,
Albert Roscoe, and Willard Roscoe.11 In 1885, railroad baron
Wallis
Nash
said Tumtum Precinct beings at the divide between Little Elk and
Yaquina
rivers on the north and extends to the dividing ridge between
the
waters
of Big Elk Creek and Alsea River on the south, and from the
mouth of
the
Little Elk to a point a little west of Blodgett’s Valley, being
in the
vicinity of 12 miles from east to west and ten from north to
south. It
is actually bounded on the north by Summit precinct, and on the
south
by
Alsea Precinct, on the west by Elk City Precinct on the east by
Kings
Valley
and Philomath precincts. Little Elk Creek near the central
portion of
the
precinct, passing out at its northeast corner; while Big Elk
Creek has
its source in the southeast corner o the west and southwest
slopes of
Marys
Peak, and flowing westerly enters Elk City Precinct. Rising on
the
northwest
gradient of Marys Peak is that fork of Mary Peak called Shot
Pouch
which,
after flowing in a northerly direction for some distance, turns
aborted
to the southeast; while, at the most northerly point of the
precinct
the
Tumtum comes in from the westward. Bordering the stream last
named is a
beautiful mountain glen, lying at a high altitude and extending
as far
as the Summit towards Little Elk Creek, whose valley is much
lower and
comprises wide lands long ago brought into cultivation. Big Elk
Creek
has
larger bottom lands on its banks than any other stream in the
region;
while
on much of the smaller water courses, such as Deer and Wolf
creeks, and
the several brooks on the north and south, considerable fertile
lands
are
seen, clothed with the richest pasture for livestock of all
kinds. Many
excellent farms have been made along the courses of Big Elk
Creek and
its
tributaries, yet there is room for more; but this valley is, so
far,
isolated,
there being only a single thoroughfare that connects it with the
upper
end; still there is no reason why one should not be constructed
to Elk
City. The Shot Pouch, which is afterwards known as one of the
forks of
Mary's River, rejoins in much valuable land along its route, nor
for
most
part covered with a growth of the wild cherry. Still there are
portions
of it in cultivation, but owing to its high position it is
subject to
keen
frosts. Marys Peak, which marks the northeastern corner of Alsea
precinct,
is situated in the southeast angle of Tumtum. It attains an
altitude of
4000 feet and is often snow-capped until the month of Aug. Its
summit
is
bald, devoid of timber but covered with a growth of indigenous
grass
better
than which for pasturage is not to be found anywhere. In form
the apex
is crescent-shaped, comprises between 300 and 400 acres, owned
by the
veteran
pioneer, Wm. Wyatt, who uses it during the summer months as a
range for
horses. Like in other portions of the district the timber has
succumbed
to the devouring element, but there are sufficient remains to
show that
there once existed a magnificent cedar forest. The early
settlers in
this
precinct first supplied their household wants from what the
country
then
offered. Until there lands could be brought into subjection they
usually
depended upon shingle making as a source of revenue, or barter
for
groceries,
while their tables were laden with venison, then more plentiful
amid
the
hills than now. Little grain is produced in Tumtum Precinct, the
chief
industry being livestock raising, which is year by year growing
into
greater
importance, their ranches being extended as their flocks and
herds
increase.
Pasturage is extended by the sowing of tame grasses, the seed
for which
is the product of their own labor, while the grangers here have
for
some
time past supplied the Corvallis market with beef and mutton
bred upon
their lands. The capabilities of this precinct are second to
none in
the
county, while the opportunities for taking up granges is as good
as in
any other portion of the state. The population is about 250,
chiefly
composed
of agriculturists, who are greatly in want of postal facilities,
their
nearest distributing point being at Philomath, some 20 to 30
miles
away.
The precinct includes three schoolhouses in Big Elk, Shot Pouch,
and
the
vicinity of Little Elk valleys, while religious services are
irregularly
held in these buildings or in the private residences of
squatters.
There
is no store within the precinct, supplies being drawn from
either
Corvallis
or Philomath. Among the first settlers in this precinct were
Alfred
Flickinger,
Jas. C. (1849-? MO) and J. H. Yantis (1831-? MO) and Solomon
Mulkey
(1823-?
MO).
Caledonia, so
called
after the name given to Scotland by the Gauls, was first located
Jan.
1,
1885, and is situated at the junction of the Caledonia (Olalla)
River
with
the Yaquina. It was laid out in 1885 by Henry Wilkinson Vincent
(1827-1922)
on the claim of Wm. Stevens, while so favorable is the side
considered
that town lots have found a ready sale. During the spring a
hotel and
store
was started as well as the Chas. Logsden Sawmill. Caledonia was
beautifully
located and placed upon the county road. Vincent was born in
Watertown,
NY, Apr. 1, 1832. In 1851, he moved to Ripon, WI, and married
Judith D.
Stevens (1835-1903), a native of Gouldsborough, ME. The couple
had
three
children: Frank, Fred and Georgia. On Jul. 3, 1874, the Vincents
arrived
in Benton County, and first located in Corvallis. Another early
settler,
Geo. S. Briggs, who owned a large fruit orchard in Caledonia,
was
originally
from Medina County, OH. He was born Oct. 27, 1834. His parents
moved to
Racine County, WI, when he was two years old. The family
remained there
until 1850 when the moved to Fayette County, IA. Briggs enlisted
in
Company
F, 9th Vet. of Iowa, Feb. 28, 1864 and served until Jun. 1865.
He
returned
to his home in Iowa and migrated to Portland, OR in 1870. In
1876, he
moved
to Yaquina Bay and purchased his 390-acre farm, on which he had
an
orchard
of over 6000 trees, 4000 of which were Italian Prunes. Jos.
Thompson, a
printer, also settled at Caledonia. Thompson was born in
Huntington
County,
(Blair County) PA, in 1832, where he resided until 1852. In the
spring
of that year, Thompson joined the Morrison Train at Dubuque, IA,
and
crossed
the plains to Oregon. When the party reached Tule (Modoc) Lake
in
Southern
Oregon, they were surprised by 150 Modoc, and after a desperate
fight,
which resulted in the loss of three lives and injuries to
Thompson,
they
were finally rescued by a party from Yreka. Upon his arrival at
Yreka,
Thompson began mining. He then went to Sacramento and San
Francisco
where
he worked as a printer, and at one time published a paper at
Nevada
City.
While living in Nevada City, Thompson married Mary V. Herbert.
The
Thompsons
were the parents of five children: Morris, Daisy, Jos. II,
Lillie and
Harriet.
In 1869, he and his family migrated to Yaquina Bay, and
homesteaded 160
acres adjoining the new town of Caledonia. However, he spent
most of
his
time in Portland working on daily papers.13 Located near Toledo,
Caledonia
was probably named for the Caledonian Canal dividing the
Grampian
Mountains
from the West Highlands in Scotland. The canal connects the
North Sea
with
the Atlantic Ocean. The Caledonia Hills between Portage and
Baraboo,
WI,
are part of the circular Baraboo Range around which the
Wisconsin River
flows. Briggsville is about eight miles northwest of Portage,
and may
be
named for the Briggs family that migrated to Yaquina Bay.
Caledonia,
WI,
an unincorporated village about six miles northwest of Racine on
Root
River
and about eight miles south or Milwaukee, is an agricultural
region.
Famous
Portage historian Frederick J. Turner noted “the large number of
Scots
at Caledonia.” Apple Holler in Sturtevant, WI, features over 50
acres
of
16 different varieties of apples. This farm hosts tours of its
orchard
and cider mill. Caledonia is the Latin word for Scotland, and
there are
numerous Scottish settlements throughout north America that bear
that
name.
Euro-Americans in the new country followed the land, and the
formation
of the land. They settled on the kind of land where they thought
they
would
find happiness and prosperity. In the hills, the hill people of
Norway,
Switzerland, Wales, Germany, Scotland and other far countries
tended to
settle, and they called the places New Glarus, Wales, Berlin,
Vienna,
New
Holstein and Caledonia. Caledonia, Columbia County, WI, was
named by
Scottish
settlers. It was probably named by the McDonald brothers who
settled
there
in 1836. Caledonia, Tremplealeau County, WI, was named by
Alexander and
Donald McGilvray and other Scottish settlers, Caledonia, Racine
County,
WI, was named for Scottish settlers. This area also had Welsh,
Irish,
Bohemian,
and German settlements.15 Other Caledonia settlements in the New
World
include Caledonia, Ontario, Canada (pop. 3,183); Caledonia, MN
(population
2,619); Caledonia, NY (pop. 2,327); Caledonia, OH (pop. 792);
and
Caledonia
County, VT (pop. 22,789).
Chitwood was a
station
on the Southern Pacific line along the Yaquina River, about six
miles
southeast
of Toledo. Chitwood post office was established Jul. 12, 1887,
with
Jas.
B. Chitwood first postmaster. Geo. T. Smith, postmaster at
Chitwood,
wrote
in 1925 that the station and post office were named for Josh.
Chitwood,
who lived near the present site of the community when the
railroad was
built down to the Yaquina between 1881 and 1885. On Jun. 30,
1945,
Chitwood
closed to Toledo.
Collins post
office,
located about three miles north of Waldport, was established
Jan. 31,
1875,
with Matt. Brand first postmaster. Numerous name changes mark
the
history
of this post office as it moved about Alsea Bay. This office,
formerly
known as Drift Wood, was named in honor of Geo. W. Collins, the
first
settler
in the Lower Alsea. Collins came in 1860 as Indian agent for the
subagency
of the Alsea Reservation. Formerly part of the Coast
Reservation, which
by treaty with the Indians extended for 90 miles along the coast
and
about
20 miles inland, Alsea Subagency near Yachats was established in
1856.
David D. Fagan’s History of Benton County records: “When whites
began
to
settle in the Alsea district they found there the remnants of
three
tribes:
the ‘Alseas’ by the bay and on the coast, a people of fishers;
the
‘Klickitats’
who hunted in the woods and over the mountains to the south; and
the
‘Drift
Creek Indians’ whose homes were scattered through the heavy
timber
round
Table Mountain and on the streams leading thereabouts, to the
east and
northeast of Alsea. Though generally at enmity with each other
yet
there
were times when, feuds laid aside, the hunting tribes visited
their
neighbors
by the ocean in peace, bringing with them the spoils of the
chase to
exchange
for the sea fish and shell fish of the Alseas. Then fires were
lighted
and feasting and jollity went on day after day together.” The
agency
was
closed in 1875 and Indians were forced to remove to Siletz so
non-indians
could settle here. Collins post office was discontinued Jun. 17,
1881.
The name of the office was changed to Waldport on Feb. 23, 1882.
It was
changed again to Lutgens on May 17, 1890.
Cutler City, just
south
of Taft and on the east shore of Siletz Bay, has had a
remarkable
development
as a resort town. This is a beautiful area full of
huckleberries,
rhododendrons
and pine trees. There was one deserted house which everyone
referred to
as Gibbs Point. It was often a picnic spot, reached only by
crossing
Schooner
Creek by horse and wagon or by boat, or wading at low tide. Due
to the
high rock point, the pioneers were unable to cut a road through.
The
town
was named for Geo. Cutler, who acquired the property from
Charley
DePoe,
a Siletz Indian, and developed the resort with several other
nearby
communities
to form Lincoln City. The post office was established Apr. 14,
1930,
with
Jacob H. Boomer serving as first postmaster. The Cutlers
formerly lived
near Dallas. Cutler died in 1913, and his wife in 1939. On Dec.
8,
1964,
Cutler City voted to become part of a new community called
Lincoln
City,
and the post office was discontinued on Sep. 24, 1965.
Delake post office,
named
for
Devils Lake, near which it was located, was established Jan. 11,
1924.
Henry A. Hostetler, a civic leader, bought Indian allotment land
in the
Delake area as early as 1910 but it was 1925 before growth
began.
Arthur
C. Deuel, the first postmaster, said that Delake was the name
agreed
upon
by himself and judge Frank L. Mann (1863-1956), a Lincoln County
resident,
because it was the way many of the Finnish people, who settled
in the
area
as fishermen, pronounced Devils Lake. When the name of the
original
post
office was changed to Oceanlake on Mar. 15, 1927, the site was
moved a
bit over a mile south. The original community then applied for
and
received
a new post office, which was established the same date that the
name
change
took place. The Delake post office was discontinued Sep. 24,
1965, and
on Dec. 8, 1964, Delake voted to become part of a new community
to be
called
Lincoln City. Development of all areas began with the opening of
the
highway
and continues to this day. In 1837, Methodist missionaries Jason
Lee
and
Cyrus Sheppard, with their brides of one month, and guide Jos.
Gervias,
came over the Old Elk Trail and camped at the site of what is
now
Delake
for a week. The honeymooners “cured themselves of malaria and
evangelized
the Salmon River Indians.” So far as is known, they were the
first
vacationers
on the Oregon Coast.20
Denzer post
office,
located
on Lobster Creek, about five miles southeast of Tidewater, was
established
Apr. 10, 1909, with Frederick C. Denzer first postmaster. The
post
office
closed to Alsea Aug. 31, 1933.
Depoe Bay is an
appealing
village that has grown up around a tiny rock-bound harbor that
claims
to
be the world’s smallest. Wm. Least Heat Moon in Blue Highways
wrote
that
“Depoe Bay used to be a picturesque fishing village; now it was
just
picturesque.
The fish houses, but for one seasonal company, were gone, the
fleet
gone,
and in their stead had come sport fishing boast and souvenir
ashtray
and
T-shirt shops.” To be fair, tourists have always come here since
the
establishment
of the town. In fact, for all intents and purposes, the town
didn’t
really
exist until the completion of the Roosevelt Highway in 1927,
which
opened
the area up to car travelers. Prior to that time, the area had
been
mainly
occupied by a few members of the Siletz Reservation. All told,
this
picturesque
little fishing village has an interesting history. In 1878, Fred
W.
Vincent
of Pendleton and his grandfather cruised up the Oregon Coast
north from
Newport and observed a break in the shoreline. Lowering the
sails of
this
40-foot boat, they finally rowed it into the little harbor. “We
found
there
the anchor chains of a sea-going craft, two headlights and the
letters
US, so we named the little spot Wreckers Cove,” said Vincent. In
1894,
lands about Depoe Bay just north of Cape Foulweather were
allotted by
the
US government to Charley Depot, a Siletz Indian whose name
derived from
the fact that as a young man he had been employed at a US Army
depot.
In
Jun. 1927, the then owners, Sunset Investment Company of
Portland,
platted
a modern townsite and named it in honor of Old Charley, whose
family
name
had evolved from plain “depot” to the more fancy “DePoe.” Rumor
had it,
however, that his was a bit too fancy for Uncle Sam who decreed
that
the
post office established there Oct. 26, 1928, should be plain
Depoe Bay,
and so it remains. Evidence of an ancient culture, Indian shell
mounds
and kitchen middens can still be seen in and around the city.
The name
became Depoe Bay when the post office was established Aug. 26,
1928.
Esther
M. Baird was first postmaster of this office, , located on the
north
side
of the bay, about 13 miles north of Newport. The narrow inlet of
Depoe
Bay is the world’s smallest navigable harbor, with just six
square
acres
of water. Because of its proximity to the ocean, fishermen or
whale
watchers
can be from dockside to viewing or fishing in a matter of
minutes. The
town has the distinction of being the only town of the entire
coast
with
this amenity. Waves run the beneath lava beds and build pressure
to
spout
water as high as 60 feet into the air. These are known as
“spouting
horns”
and are visible during turbulent seas and stormy weather. Depoe
Bay is
also the Whale Watching Capital of the Oregon Coast with its
resident
pod
of grey whales which makes its home there ten months out of the
year.
Each
spring the town hosts the “Celebration of the Whales.” Fleet of
Flowers
celebration is held on Memorial Day. Local boats venture out of
the
harbor
to place floral wreaths on the Pacific as a tribute to friends
and
loved
ones. Over 20,000 people come to witness a blanket of blossoms
cast
upon
high waters. The Depoe Bay Salmon Bake takes place on the third
Sat. of
Sep. at Depoe Bay City Park, located just south and east of the
bridge
flanking the rear of the boat basin. Approximately 3000 pounds
of fresh
ocean fish are caught cooked over open fires of alder and cedar
just as
Indians like Matilda and Wm. Depoe did years ago. In her Apr. 4,
199
letter
to M. Constance Guardino III, Julie Hendricks of Tiller wrote:
“While
working
at PCH, I met and came to love Chief Wm. Depoe while he was
alive. I
hope
his biography is published one day. He was quite a dear fellow,
with
many
stories to tell. He lived a very full and rewarding life. He was
in one
Elvis movie, and he was on the Lawrence Welk show. Through his
80-plus
years he remained very active with cultural activities, and he
maintained
a superb sense of humor. He declined rapidly after his wife
passed on.”
Devils Lake is
near the
Pacific Ocean in the southwest part of Lincoln County. Devils
Lake post
office, located near the north end of the lake, was established
Jan. 9,
1913, with Cecil Cosper first postmaster. The office closed to
Otis
Jul.
15, 1918. Native American mythology persists with fables of
fearsome
megafauna—a
giant fish or marine monster—dwelling in Devils Lake, and
occasionally
came to the surface to attack some hapless person. Yearly
religious
rites
and sacrifices were probably practiced to appease the awesome
creature.
There are several versions of the story but this one is
sufficient to
indicate
the origin of the name.
Drift Creek was
the
first
post office to be established in the Alsea Bay area. Located
three
miles
north of Waldport, the Drift Creek office was established Aug.
6, 1874,
with Matthew Brand postmaster, and was named for the
accumulation of
driftwood
on the banks of the stream which enters the eastern end of the
Bay. The
name of the office was changed to Collins on Jan. 31, 1876, in
honor of
George W. Collins who was born in Spencer, KY, Apr. 22, 1832. In
1846
Collins
moved to Adams County, IL. The family migrated to California in
1850,
where
Collins was a miner until 1853, when he moved to Jackson County
and
took
part in the Rogue River Indian Wars. Collins first settled in
the Lower
Alsea area. In 1857, he moved to the Siletz area, worked in the
early
1860s
as an employee on the Coast Reservation. From 1864 through 1869
he was
Indian subagent in charge of the Alsea Agency until he was
relieved by
lt. Beatty. In 1871, Collins located on a farm near Seal Rock.
Collins’
report for 1864 shows 580 Indians at the Alsea Agency. “The Coos
and
Umpqua
tribes of Indians have at this place comfortable houses to live
in;
they
have two barns and also two potato houses. The Syouslaus
(Siuslaws)
have,
mostly, frame houses, weather-boarded with clapboards. The Alsea
Indians
have a few frame houses, but most of them are Indian style,
built under
ground, or very nearly so.” When David Ruble became postmaster
of
Collins,
the site moved from the north to south shore of Alsea Bay. The
name of
this office was changed to Waldport on Jun. 17, 1881, and back
to
Collins
on Feb. 23, 1882. Ruble lost the position of postmaster during
this
transition.
This post office in Waldport may have been on the north side of
Alsea
Bay,
not on the south side. Collins was changed to Lutgens (or
Lutjens) on
May
1890, and Lutgens was changed to Stanford Jul. 29, 1883. W. C.
Shepard
was first postmaster while the office was so named, but the
reason for
the Stanford name has been obscured. The post office retained
that name
until Jun. 21, 1897, when it became Lutgens again. Albert H.
Lutgens
was
postmaster of this office, located four miles south of Seal Rock
on the
north shore of Alsea Bay. On Apr. 24, 1917, the name of the
office was
changed to Nice, in honor of Harry Nice, a prominent Alsea Bay
resident
during the last part of the 19th century. Nora L. Strake was
first
postmaster
of this final office, which closed to Waldport on Nov. 15, 1919.
This
post
office had eight names during its 45 years of service, possibly
a
record.
No other Oregon office appears to have approached this mark. It
is
obvious
that the office was moved a number of times. However, the
offices
mentioned
above were all in the general vicinity of Alsea Bay.
Eddyville post
office,
established Mar. 13, 1888, was located about a mile west of the
original
Little Elk site on Yaquina River, and about eight miles east of
Toledo.
The office was named for Israel F. Eddy, who served as the
postmaster
of
Little Elk for nine years prior to the name change. The
Eddyville
office
seems to have had more than the usual number of moves. It was
first
called
Little Elk, because it was near the mouth of Little Elk Creek.
About
1888
Israel Fiske Eddy, the postmaster, moved the office about a mile
west
and
had the name changed to Eddyville. Some four years later the
office was
brought back to its original location and the name changed to
Little
Elk.
About 1893 it was moved again to Eddy’s place and was continued
under
the
name Eddyville. According to Bea Eddy-Wilcox, who is a member of
the
Lincoln
County Historical Society and the DAR, Israel Fisk Eddy
(1824-1911),
the
legendary early settler of Eddyville, was a man of generous
size. He
stood
six feet, seven inches tall, and was said to be very powerful.
He
probably
weighed well over 250 pounds, and had to stoop and enter an
ordinary
doorway
sideways. Most of the legends about Israel Eddy had to do with
his
tremendous
strength. One old timer said he saw Israel take the axle of the
wheel
of
a loaded hay wagon and lift it out of the mud so the horses
could pull
it out of a mud hole. He said he was a tiny boy at the time, and
was
overwhelmed
by Eddy’s strength. Another tale says that Israel could put a
heavy
steel
spike—similar to the ones used in making bridges—between his
fingers,
slam
down on it, and the spike would bend to their shape. Israel
settled in
what is now the town of Eddyville, in 1870. He was 46 years old.
At the
time, the area was known as Little Elk. His first wife, P. D.
Eddy, who
he married back in Vermont, died after he had reared a family,
so he
remarried.
The Eddys had a son named Perry and a daughter named Eva May
(1862-1875)
who was 13 years old when they came West to Lincoln County. She
died
Dec.
27, 1875, at the age of 13 years and seven months. Israel left
his land
and everything dear to him in Minnesota and came out West to
join his
father,
Ezekiel Eddy (1800-1890) who was already here with his wife,
Lucy Fisk
(1805-1878). Ezekiel had crossed the plains at least twice in
his
lifetime.
He was a considerably old man to be making such a move, and he
brought
his grown children with him. The old man was a true son of the
American
Revolution (1775-1783), because his father, Jas. Eddy, fought in
the
war.
Israel bought land in Little Elk from a young bride and groom.
Legend
has
it that he and his father rode to Corvallis and came back with a
mule
or
two loaded down with silver money to pay for the land. They
built a
sawmill
and a gristmill on this land, and used a small dam on the
Yaquina to
supply
the power. The heavy stones used to grind the grain were shipped
from
England,
and were carried from Siletz Bay to the Eddy gristmill on the
back of a
Indian woman! Israel’s reason for putting a gristmill in the
middle of
tall timber was a puzzle to some people, but he was convinced
that the
railroad was coming through to connect Central Oregon—which
people then
believed would become the grain capital of the world—with the
Central
Oregon
Coast. The prediction was that Newport would become an enormous
seaport,
and the grain from Eastern and Central Oregon would be shipped
to
foreign
ports from there. These plans never materialized, however, and
Israel
ended
up grinding flour for local use instead of foreign trade. The
railroad,
it is thought, could have been instrumental in changing Little
Elk to
Eddyville.
Israel owned a lot of land in the Little Elk area when col. T.
Egenton
Hogg was putting in the Corvallis & Eastern Railway through
to the
coast. When Israel gave the railroad right-of-way privileges
through
his
land, it was under the consideration that they would name the
area
Eddyville.
But there were other more powerful interests, primarily in
Portland,
that
didn’t want to see Newport become an enormous port with all the
grain
from
Eastern and Central Oregon being shipped through it. Although it
is
“unofficial,”
some people still speculate that there was sabotage beyond
belief on
this
railroad. Tunnels were set on fire, bridges were undercut or
burned,
and
every underhanded deed was done to try and keep the railroad
from
succeeding.
It went bankrupt time and time again. Wallis Nash (1837-1926)
poured
millions
of dollars into it. But Portland interests bought up a great
deal of
land
around Yaquina Bay, so that docks couldn’t be built.
Considerable land
in Lincoln County is still owned by some of these old estates.
There
were
people who were determined that Portland alone was going to be
the big
port; they didn’t want Newport developed at any cost. Another
story
states
that in 1888, Israel Eddy, who was then postmaster of Little
Elk, moved
the post office a mile west onto his own property and changed
the name
to Eddyville. He also established the cemetery on his farm. This
location
was approximately where Eddy Creek and the Yaquina meet. The
office was
moved east to McBride’s store in 1892 with the name changed back
to
Little
Elk. Upon petition, the office was moved back to Eddy’s and the
name
was
changed to Eddyville. Eddy sold to Conroy and the post office
went with
it. The next change was to Flam Young who kept it until 1897
when it
moved
back to McBride’s store. The Post Office Department however
declined to
change the name, giving as the reason, they did not like the
double
name.
The office was sold to Stringer, and in about 1938 to Frances
Mauch.
Ms.
Sparks and Ms. Boynton took it when it came under civil service.
Israel
was fond of trees and had a fine orchard in Eddyville. People
from
around
Siletz and Kernville would come over and help out with the apple
harvest.
This was something they looked forward to in the autumn because
they
always
had a good time, particularly the children. In the evenings they
would
build campfires and Israel would entertain them with an organ
grinder,
at which he was reputed to be quite talented. That was a big
treat for
everyone—especially the children—in days of limited
entertainment.
Besides
the other enterprises, Israel owned a grocery store. Above the
store
was
a big room he divided off with curtains into a sleeping room for
people
traveling through. The room was also used for dances he threw on
Saturday
nights. Dances in those days were very important sources of
entertainment.
People would come from miles around on horseback or in wagons.
They
would
bring along their children and put them to bed in the back of
their
wagons
and prepared to spend the night. The dancers and their families
would
have
breakfast the following morning. Liquor was brought to the
dances.
Inevitably
there would be a fight, and Israel took it upon himself to break
them
up.
He would take the offenders by the back of their necks and pull
them
apart.
Then he would escort them outside and dump them in a watering
trough.
In
1908 at the wedding of a local young lady, he appeared with a
coonskin
cap and ear trumpet and regaled the assembly with the story of
how he
recovered
from the flue by drinking a swig of piano polish mistaken for
his
medicine.
Israel Eddy loved to travel. From one trip he took on horseback
to
California,
he brought hack several redwood trees. One redwood stands today
on
former
Eddy land. It is located on the north edge of Highway 20 on the
straight
stretch in the road just west of Eddyville. The redwoods around
Chitwood
might possibly have been planted there by him. Israel’s son,
Perry,
married
Mary Amanda Franz. She was the daughter of a Civil War captain,
Saml.
Franz,
and his wife, Mary. They came across the plains 1850 and bought
Ft.
Hoskins
directly from the government. Perry and Mary Amanda had a family
of
five
children. They were all born in Kings Valley or Hoskins, at the
junction
of the Kings Valley and Hoskins roads. Eddy died in 1911 at the
age of
87 years.
Elk City, a point
of
departure for hunting and fishing parties, is located at the
mouth of
Elk
Creek on Yaquina River, about four miles east of Toledo. Marys
Peak is
the most prominent mountain in the Coast Range as it crosses
Benton
County.
Down its western slope flows a clear, sparking stream typical of
those
in coastal Oregon. Near its banks, in 1856, was camped a party
of
explorers
in search of grazing land. Food supplies were low and supper was
expected
to be beans as usual. Then one man saw a fine bull elk standing
on a
hill,
an easy mark for his gun. In memory of this provident event the
stream
became Elk Creek. The first settlement at Elk City was made by
the
Corvallis
and Yaquina Bay Wagon Road Company, who erected a warehouse here
in
1866.
Here was the overland terminus of the stage and mail route, the
rest of
the distance to the bay being by water. The settlement was named
Newton
for the man who laid out the plat in 1868, Albitha Newton, and
placed
it
as far up the Yaquina as boats could go. During normal low water
periods
the stream was quite narrow, branches hanging low and sometimes
brushing
the heads of boat passengers. Water-soaked snags lurked on the
bottom
of
the none too deep waterway to scrape bottoms or rip holes in
them. At
times
of high water the menace of low trees and branches became worse
but the
influence of ocean tides became noticeable. As Newton grew more
and
more
travel came up the river from Toledo. At Yaquina City and
Newport below
on the bay, efforts were made to clear the waterway by removing
snags
and
cutting branches. A small dock was prefabricated at Toledo,
brought up
on a barge and installed on the bank. Then it was possible for
small
steamboats
to tie up at the town and regular service was instituted. A
flat-bottomed
stern wheeler was the first to make regular runs, down the bay
one day
and back the next. The railroad was also completed through
Newton and
on
to bay points. Two saloons, a hotel, store, and Odd Fellows
Lodge which
was shared by other fraternal orders, many cabins and houses—all
grew
up
on the site, giving the place the appearance of a real town.
During the
major active period of the Oregon Pacific Railroad, Elk City
flourished
as an important point on the route but as the railroad declined
so did
the town. The first post office had been established in 1868
with Edwin
A. “Kit” Abbey the postmaster. Marshall W. Simpson held the job
next,
was
out of the office for a while and then returned Nov. 23, 1888.
He came
full of ideas about advancing the status of the little town and
one of
the first efforts he made was getting the name changed from
Newton to
Elk
City to conform to the name of the post office. The town
flourished
until
automobiles took away the need for river traffic. And as logging
in the
area declined so did Elk City. Another blow was the abandonment
of the
rock quarries which had provided a live industry with workers
living
and
buying supplies in the town. The old grocery which for years
housed the
post office is the only business still going in the town by the
Yaquina.
The Scovilles now operate it and a gas pump (1964). They tell of
frequent
floods when the only traffic through the main street was by
boat. “All
these coastal rivers are short,” says W. S. Scoville. “Our heavy
winter
rains of sometimes two and three inches a day quickly swell them
to
flood
heights. In early days there was a sawmill and hotel here. One
time
when
the river was exceptionally high the water took a lot of lumber
piled
in
the sawmill yard and slammed it against the hotel turning it on
its
side
so it had to be torn down. It was never rebuilt and neither was
the
wrecked
sawmill. That seems to be the way of the old town went, little
by
little.”
Elk City still has at least one resource, says Scoville. “We
have extra
good fishing here, especially in the middle of summer when
steelhead
salmon
and blueback are running. Then fishermen bring their families
over from
the Willamette Valley and stay a while. We keep those little
cabins
there
rented all the time.” On Dec. 31, 1958, the Elk City post office
closed
to Toledo.
Euclid post
office was
established May 25, 1904, with Martin G. Lyon postmaster, and
closed
Apr.
30, 1909. In 1949, F. W. Furst, superintendent of the Siuslaw
National
Forest, wrote that Euclid post office was at or near the site of
an
earlier
office called Axtell had been discontinued in the summer of
1903. The
Euclid
post office was just to the east of the mouth of North Fork
Yachats
River
in T145, R11W. It is reported that the name was given by Allen
Beamer,
a nearby resident who had a reputation for being a scholarly
individual.
Just why the name of the Greek geometrician (300 BCE) was
selected has
not been explained. In the spring of 1908, Lyon gave up the
office and
the establishment was moved some distance upstream on the north
side of
Grass Creek.
Fisher post
office
was
named for the fisher, Mustela pennanti. Well-known outdoor
writer,
Tom McAllister, described this rare animal: “This cat sized
hunter of
squirrels
and other small animals is a member of the family Mustellidae
which
includes
minks, martens, weasels, badgers, otters and skunks. Before its
near
disappearance
in Oregon, it lived in undisturbed virgin forest at low to
intermediate
elevations and often followed stream courses on its solitary
rounds.
The
fisher vanished in the Coast Range with loss of habitat,
trapping and
the
use of poison baits to control coyotes and wolves, but in the
1980s it
was reported again in the Cascade Range. Oldtime trappers prized
the
fisher
for the beauty and high value of the pelts.” Fisher post office
was
established
Mar. 19, 1892, but was not always in one location. The post
office was
discontinued Jan. 31, 1911, and re-established Jul. 8, 1912. The
office
closed to Alsea Sep. 30, 1942. Formerly known as Vernon, it is
reported
that Bennett Olsen suggested the name for the Fisher office.
Vernon
post
office, located three miles due north of Fisher, was established
May 1,
1905, with Martin L. Earnest first postmaster. Martin Johanson
was the
first postmaster, and J. W. Mink later held the office.
Remarkable
nomenclature.
In fact, aptness of description, sometimes with a jest, is
evident in
the
names applied to other pioneer Oregon localities. Some of this
nomenclature
persists, but much of it has been discarded by a more polite but
less
poetic
era. Fair Play was so called from the fairness of its horse
races. Lick
Skillet and Scanty Grease have an obvious origin. Row River was
named
for
neighborhood feuds; Soap Creek for bachelors who had no soap;
and Ah
Doon
Hill for a Chinese who was shanghaied there. Hells’ Canyon on
Snake
River,
the deepest chasm in America, is as descriptive of wild grandeur
as
God’s
Valley in the Nehalem country is of peace.
Fredericksburg:
John
A. Olsson was born in Gutenberg, Sweden, Mar. 20, 1838. At the
age of
14
he went to sea. In 1864, he traveled from San Francisco with
capt.
Winant
to Yaquina Bay, to work in the oyster business. In Jan. 1866, he
homesteaded
112 acres (Olssonville) on the north side of the Bay. In 1882,
he had
his
estate divided, with part going to an addition to the City of
Newport
and
the balance going to the town of Fredericksburg which he named
and
started
started.30
Glen post office was in the west part of
T12S,
R9W, a few miles south of Salado. It was on Upper Drift Creek or
one of
its tributaries. The office was established Jan. 17, 1894, with
Simeon
J. Wilhoit first of three postmasters. The office was closed to
Elk
City
on Jun. 30, 1912. The name Glen is said to have been applied by
Jerry
Banks
in honor of some town where he had lived previously, but the
compiler
has
been unable to identify the place.
Gleneden Beach
post
office,
located one mile south of the south end of Siletz Bay,
established Nov.
1, 1927, with Wm. F. Cary (or Craig) first postmaster. On Jun.
23,
1961,
Gleneden Beach was designated a rural station of Taft. On Sep.
24,
1965,
it was designated a rural station of Lincoln City, but a
postmark was
used
for a short time which read “Gleneden Beach.” Gleneden Beach is
a type
of descriptive name frequently found in seashore areas where
there are
high hopes of real estate sales. The place is about a mile south
of the
south end of Siletz Bay. In 1949 a Japanese horned mine drifted
ashore
at Gleneden Beach. A bomb disposal expert was called. He
tunneled
through
the sand under the mine to remove its base plate and to disable
the
booster
charge and sensitive horn connections. The deactivated shell is
on
exhibit
at the museum. Accounts exist that at least six other mines
washed up
on
Oregon’s coast during the late 1940s. In Jan. 2000, just days
after
moving,
cars filled the parking lot and customers hustled and bustled
through
the
bright, clean lobby of the new Gleneden Beach post office.
Postmaster
Louise
Cremeen looked at the activity with pride and said, “It’s the
‘Cheers’
of Gleneden Beach. It’s where everyone knows your name.” And it
didn’t
take postal patrons long to find their way a few blocks down the
street
to the post office’s new location at 6645 Gleneden Beach Loop
Road, on
the ground floor of the Blue Mountain Contractors building next
to the
Side Door Cafe. Cremeen, who was awarded the two-year post
office
contract
in December, said there was some initial grumbling about moving
the
facility
from its previous long-time location. But the town is growing
and
progressing,
she said, and it was time for a change. Apparently, most of her
customers
agreed, as more than a dozen showed up on New Year’s Day to move
equipment,
hundreds of post office boxes, and even a two-ton safe to the
new spot.
“There was no delivery on Saturday, and we had to move and be
open on
Monday.
We couldn’t miss a mail day,” explained Cremeen. The move was
completed
in less than eight hours, thanks to many hands and cars—and a
pick-up
that
towed the safe (on rollers) down Gleneden Beach Loop Road to its
new
home.
Cremeen, who worked for the prior Gleneden Beach postmaster and
had the
emergency contract for the site in Oct. and Nov., said the
community is
pleased with the change. She said, “Everybody has loved the fact
we
moved.
Before, it was 20 to 25 years in the same place.” The move in
careers
has
also been good for Cremeen, whose background is in inventory
control
and
purchasing. “It’s the most fun job I’ve ever had in my life,”
she said.
Cremeen firmly believes the “post office belongs to its
customers.” She
and her crew, Lora Perry and Jeannie Angermayer, plan to operate
the
facility
that way, catering to their 800-1000 patrons. She appreciates
the help
the post office received in moving, and said, “I couldn’t have
done it
without customers, and also John Manca’s (Blue Mountain
Contractors)
crew.”
Harborton, now
known
as South Beach, is an unincorporated part of Lincoln County
located on
the south shore of Yaquina Bay. The earliest notice of the area
was
during
WWI when the US Army spruce division established Camp III at
Idaho
Point
to get out lumber for planes and ships. Camp I was at Beaver
Creek near
Waldport. Logs were shipped by rail to South Beach and then
rafted to
Toledo
to the mill. Some of the old track bed can still be seen at the
Toledo
air strip, which is visible through the old piling on the far
side of
the
Yaquina. The air strip is 1,725 feet long, and accommodates
single
engine
planes. An early resident of South Beach, Elsie Omlid, was a
cook at
Camp
III. Three buildings on 4th Street were used as the US Army
hospital
during
the war. The Omlids remained in South Beach following the war,
and
their
children attended a school located west of Toby Murray Auto Body
on
US-101.
Omlid recalls one of her daughters rode the jitney on a spur of
the
railroad
to school. She remembers there was ferry service to Newport
every hour.
People could ride free, but rigs cost $1.50. The Omlids ran a
stage
coach
service for passengers and mail along the beach. At times winter
storms
and high tides held them up. A post office, store, and tavern
were
among
the first businesses in the area.
Harlan post
office,
established
Mar. 3, 1890, was located near the junction of Spout and Elk
creeks,
eight
miles southwest of Burnt Woods. Jas. R. Harlan was first
postmaster of
this office, which closed to Eddyville on Feb. 23, 1968. Johnny
Feagles
(1873-1963) was the first non-indian child born in Lincoln
County’s
Harlan
area. His recollections of the early days include the terrain.
The
Harlan
area was nearly all fern in the early days. There were lots of
burnt
trees
and snags standing and some on the ground. All the trees and the
brush
have grown up since he was a boy. When he was small, there were
only a
few scattered trees here and there. The area was the scene of a
forest
fire sometime back in history. But nobody knew exactly when it
happened,
including the Indians. Johnny Feagles remembers an abundance of
cats
and
cougars in the area when he was a boy. There were also many
deer. He
was
ten or 11 years old when he shot his first deer. Fishing was
good in
those
days too. Salmon was abundant on the river in autumn. Feagles
remembers
one party who caught 200 trout in just one day’s fishing. The
advent of
good roads in the area brought people out in greater numbers.
Now the
fish
are scarce in comparison. There weren’t any roads at all in the
area
when
the first three squatters packed in to Harlan from Burnt Woods
by
horse.
One of the first three settlers was Johnny Feagles’ father, Rbt.
Lew
Feagles,
who moved into the Harlan area in 1872, having originated from
Missouri.
Nearby Feagles Creek is named for him. Johnny was one of four
children.
His brother died in scarlet fever epidemic that swept the area.
The
doctor
said the other children would have died had they arrived for
help two
and
a half hours later. Johnny Feagles attended school only three
months
out
of the year. He figures learned more in those three months of
concentrated
study than children learn in nine months of school today. The
curriculum
stuck strictly to the basics. The story of Rbt. Lew Feagles’
shooting
and
causing the death of his father-in-law, Morgan Lillard, has
details
given
in the Jun. 1980 issue of the Corvallis Gazette-Times. Lillard
had long
held a grudge against Feagles. He had threatened him often and
was said
to have started the shooting. Feagles was building a fence on
the
roadside
near the line between their places. That would have been in
front of
the
Harlan Community Hall. Lillard’s Granddaughter, the late Ida
Miller
Smouse,
said the trouble began when the two families had scarlet fever.
During
Nov. and Dec. of 1877, Lillard’s Wife, Nancy, Jane Feagles’
daughter,
her
son Thms. and another young son, died and were buried on a
hillside
above
Charley Mulkey’s large cedar barn. John Feagles, who was about
four
years
old at the time, and his sister, were dangerously ill. A
question
arises
as to how they could use a wagon on those hills. There were no
bridges.
Riding horses would have been a serious undertaking. About 1920,
Maybelle
Allison and Houston Grant carried their small son to Corvallis
on
horseback
and that was known to be a real task then. One of the smallest
covered
bridges over Deer Creek near Big Elk River was used on the road
to
Harlan.
Before the road was moved nearer the river, Deer Creek was a
halfway
point
for picnics.34
Idaho Point is a prominent landmark on the
south
side of Yaquina Bay about two miles southeast of Newport. In
times past
it has been known both as Point Virtue and Hinton Point. Andrew
L.
Porter,
a resident of the Yaquina Bay district since the 1860s, said in
1945
that
the point was named for one Hinton who settled there in the
early days.
This was Rowland B. Hinton, a pioneer of 1846 who was a
prominent
resident
near Monroe in Benton County. The name Idaho Point appears to
have been
the result of a real estate venture but after WWII it became
well
established.
Johnson post
office,
named for an Indian Shaker couple, Sissy (1859-1931) and Jakie
Johnson
(1859-1933), was at the Parmele place about half a mile up Drift
Creek
from the mouth of the stream on the east side of Siletz Bay, and
about
two miles north of Kernville. The office was established Mar.
11, 1899,
with Geo. S. Parmele (1853-1930) first and only postmaster. The
office
was closed May 23, 1903, and what business there was turned over
to
Kernville.
Sissy and Jakie Johnson, a local Native American couple, were
well and
favorably known. Jakie Johnson is said to have been a Siletz
Indian.
Sissy
Johnson, a Shasta from Northern California, bore the tribal
markings of
three double lines tattooed on her chin. Among the Southern
Oregontribes,
adult women tattooed their chins with three vertical stripes and
were
dubbed
the “One-Eleven Girls” by whites. The ancient Shasta had
tattooed the
entire
chin, and while the Yakonan did not use face markings they
tattooed
dots
on the wrists of their women for strength. Indians of the
Willamette
Valley
(the closest to the Siletz on the east) did not use tattoos. A
very
light-skinned
people, comparatively speaking, the Southern Oregon Chasta Costa
women
also wore chin tatoos. This was not unlike the chin-tattooing
tradition
of the ancient Libyans. In 1980, Harvard professor Berry Fell
wrote:
“Those
Berbers who retained their ancient customs practiced
chin-tattooing of
the women, who did not wear the veil even though they are now
Moslems.
The men on the other hand often cover their head and face with a
scarf-like
cloth, showing only the eyes to strangers.” Indian women of
Sissy
Johnson’s
period imitated non-indian dress habits and were especially fond
of
hats,
shoes and colorful shirts. One news reporter said, “The Indian
women
from
Siletz made an admirable appearance in their Sunday best.” He
watched
the
two cultures collide “head on” as it were, however, when blue
facial
tattoos
appeared atop 19th Century urban fashions. A more graceful blend
resulted
when Indian women completed their costumes with their own
beautiful
basketry
hand bags. A friendly and outgoing woman, Sissy Johnson taught
local
people
how to cook mussels and how to mix ashes and salt to make a
cement to
patch
cracks and drafts in wood-burning stoves. The Johnsons held land
by
patent
and part of the town of Taft is on property owned by the pair.
Sissy
and
Jackie Johnson were influential Siletz Shaker missionaries and
ministers.
The Shaker Church, advocating strict morals, originated among
Squaxin
Indians
at the upper end of Puget Sound on the Washington Coast. It made
its
appearance
at the turn of the century on the Quinault Reservation which was
established
by executive order Sep. 22, 1866. The land on that reservation
was not
especially desirable and never heavily settled. Many Indians
preferred
to remain off the tract, fitting their way of life to that of
whites
around
the bay, perhaps because both races were involved in the fishing
industry.
After the Chehalis Reservation was established by executive
order of
Jul.
8, 1864, Washington superintendent of Indian affairs I. J.
McKenny
sought
to bring onto that confine all nonreservation Chinook, Willapa
Bay,
Chehalis,
and Cowlitz Indians. To hurry them along to what he hoped would
be
their
new home, he ordered his agents to lure them with gifts of every
kind
from
timber to trinkets. McKenny hoped that reservation life would
gradually
eliminate among these unconfined Indians “bad habits,” the worst
of
which,
to his thinking, were gambling, drinking, sorcery, head
flattening, and
polygamy, all of which prevailed into the second half of the
19th
century.
About the same time as the Quinaults, the Willapa Bay Chinook
also
embraced
the Shaker religion. Like many other messianic cults, the Shaker
church
was a compound of native and Christian forms. Yet, in their
working of
these ingredients, Shakers had created a unique system of belief
and
behavior,
and refused to accept the status of an affiliate of the
established
religions.
The Indian Shaker church developed inspiration and sanction of
its own,
and evolved a pattern of internal development peculiarly its
own.
Persecution
by outsiders had certain negative effects, but it also acted as
a
powerful
stimulus for the consolidation and intensification of belief.
The cult
underwent numerous changes since its inception in 1881. Its
history is,
in fact, marked by constant flux of ritual and belief. In part,
this
characteristic
was due to the fact that the movement had diffused through
several
Indian
groups with quite different cultural backgrounds. There is,
however, an
even more fundamental reason for the dynamic quality of the
Shaker
religion.
Cult doctrine exhibited a remarkable tolerance toward individual
interpretation
and the extension of its forms and meanings. Private
convictions, based
on alleged Supernatural sanctions called “teachings” or “gifts,”
were
regarded
as the true sources of doctrine and procedure; and while
conflicts of
personalities
and ideas inevitably resulted, the basic tenet granting the
truth of
individual
inspiration was never questioned.37 The Johnsons, who are both
buried
at
Paul Washington Cemetery on Government Hill in Siletz, were well
and
favorably
known. Jakie’s mother, Susan Johnson, died Mar. 13, 1910, and is
buried
at Taft Cemetery. The Johnsons operated a general store, once
owned by
Parmele, for Nelson & Ray of Cloverdale, who built their
ocean-going
boat, Della. They built their large, two-story home on the hill
east of
the store at a location near the present US-101 and Coast
Avenue. They
rented rooms and served meals to travelers as there were no
other
accommodations
available. Their estate included many farm buildings. Later, in
1909,
the
Mercer family built a home on the bluff facing the ocean just
above the
store, and operated it as a hotel. In 1974, a new home replaced
this
landmark.
In 1904, John W. Bones (1884-1970), homesteaded a claim on the
Bayfront
adjoining the Johnson estate. On Jan. 22, 1906, Taft post office
was
established
with Bones the first postmaster. The post office, named after
the pres.
Wm. Howard Taft (1857-1930), was located on the north shore of
Siletz
Bay
in the urban strip, which is now Lincoln City. Bones donated
land for
the
cemetery located above Spanish Head and some time later the
pioneers
collected
money to buy land for the cemetery. He sold his business in 1910
to Wm.
Dodson, who built a new general merchandise store a little
farther back
from the waterfront. This building, after many renovations and
additions,
eventually became the Driftwood Nursing Home. The nursing home
is no
longer
in operation but the building still stands.
Kernville post office was originally located
on
the southwest bank of the Siletz, about a mile upstream from the
present
community. The post office was established in the same building
in the
same building on Jul. 6, 1896, with John H. Kern first
postmaster. The
office was discontinued Dec. 15, 1913, and re-established Dec.
14,
1920.
It was discontinued again Jan. 11, 1926, and reopened its doors
for
service
on Jul. 26, 1928. On Oct. 31, 1957, the Kernville office became
a rural
station of Taft, and on Dep. 25, 1965, it became a rural station
of the
newly established Lincoln City. That office was discontinued
Mar. 9,
1968.
Old Kernville, located about two miles above the present site of
Kernville,
was the site of the first commercial industry in North Lincoln
County.
In 1896, when this part of the Coast Reservation was opened to
white
settlement,
Danl. Kern was among the first to exploit the situation, when he
built
a salmon cannery that employed Chinese labor. As established in
1885,
the
Siletz Reservation, a remnant of the Coast Reservation, covered
more
than
one and a third million acres but as the non-indian population
of
Oregon
increased the newcomers decided that there was too much valuable
land
in
the hands of the natives. Though there were more than 2000
Indians on
the
reservation in 1867, war, famine and disease had reduced the
number to
about 550 in 1887. By 1892, the allotments of the Siletz group
covered
only 47,000 acres. In 1925, though the number of Indians had
increased
the Siletz Agency was closed. John Fleming Wilson’s (1877-1922)
novel,
The Land Claimers (1911), tells the story of men like the Kerns
who
rushed
into the Siletz lands when they were thrown open to non-indian
settlement.
Cannery Mountain (1065') is on the south side of Siletz River
about two
miles southeast of the present site of Kernville. This mountain
is
about
south of and across the river from the site of the former Kern
fish
cannery
and it was named on that account. Coyote Rock is on Siletz
River, two
miles
above Kernville. To insure himself of a constant supply of
salmon, so
the
Indian legend goes, Coyote attempted to dam the river here and
was
partly
successful. In the autumn especially, large Chinook salmon wait
here
for
the first rains before ascending to upriver spawning beds.
Medicine
Rock
is on Siletz River six miles above Kernville. Native Americans
believed
presents left on Medicine Rock near here would bring the giver
good
luck.
The place was a familiar landmark to the pioneer travelers.
Lincoln City has
been
a favorite spot for honeymooning couples for more than a
century. In
1837,
traveling by horseback on the Old Elk Trail along the Salmon
River,
missionary
Jason lee brought his bride, Anna Marie Pittman, together with
Cyrus
Shepard
and his bride, and a guide, Joe Gervias. The two couples set up
camp at
nearby Oceanlake and evangelized the Salmon River Indians. The
Jason
Lee
Campsite can be seen at Oceanlake, at the north end of Lincoln
City
near
Devil’s Lake. Lincoln City was placed on the map Dec. 8, 1964,
when the
cities of Oceanlake, Delake and Taft and the unincorporated
communities
of Cutler City and Nelscott voted to merge to form a new single
community.
Lincoln City post office, formerly known as Delake, was
established
Sep.
25, 1965. The City of Oceanlake is a coast town of about 400
supported
by sportsmen and tourists. It is located west of Devils Lake on
the
Oregon
Coast Highway. The name called attention to this position
between the
lake
and the ocean. The post office, formerly known as Delake, was
established
Mar. 15, 1927, with Arthur C. Deuel first postmaster. The City
of
Delake
was named for Devils Lake, near which it was located. Arthur C.
Deuel,
postmaster at Delake in 1925, said that Delake was the name
agreed upon
by himself and judge Frank L. Mann (1863-1956), a Lincoln County
resident,
because it was the way many of the Finnish people, who settled
in the
area
as fishermen, pronounced Devils Lake. When the name of the
original
post
office, established Jan. 11, 1924, was changed to Oceanlake, the
site
was
moved a bit over a mile south. The original community then
applied for
and received a new post office, which was established Mar. 15,
1927. In
1837, Methodist missionaries Jason Lee and Cyrus Sheppard, with
their
brides
of one month, and guide Jos. Gervias, came over the Old Elk
Trail and
camped
at the site of Oceanlake for a week. The honeymooners “cured
themselves
of malaria and evangelized the Salmon River Indians.” So far as
is
known,
they were the first vacationers on the Oregon Coast. The City of
Taft
was
named for Wm. Howard Taft, 27th president of the US. The post
office
was
established Jan. 22, 1906, and was named when Taft was secretary
of
war.
John W. Bones was first postmaster, and is said to have
suggested the
name.
The community of Cutler City, just south of Taft and on the east
shore
of Siletz Bay, has had a remarkable development as a resort
town. The
town
was named for Geo. Cutler, who acquired the property from
Charley
DePoe,
a Siletz Indian, and developed the resort with several other
nearby
communities
to form Lincoln City. The post office was established in 1930
with
Jacob
H. Boomer first postmaster. The Cutlers formerly lived near
Dallas.
Cutler
died in 1913, and his wife in 1939. The community of Nelscott
has
become
an important summer resort on the Oregon Coast Highway about two
miles
north of Taft. A letter by Alma Anderson, published in the North
Lincoln
Coast Guard, May 4, 1939, indicates that the name was formed by
combining
parts of the names of Chas. P. Nelson and Dr. W. R. Scott, who
opened
the
town site in Apr. 1926. The post office was established Aug. 2,
1929.
Nelson
died in Dec. 1946. On the beach at Nelscott, as elsewhere along
the
Oregon
Coast, Japanese floats—colored glass balls, are frequently
found. These
floats—used as net supports by oriental fishermen—are carried
across
the
ocean by the Japanese current. They are prized by tourists for
decorative
purposes. A line of substantial cottages face the ocean here.
Linville post
office,
located on Drift Creek, about seven miles northeast of Waldport
and a
few
miles east of Bayview, was established May 26, 1896, with Rbt.
W.
Linville
first postmaster. The office was discontinued on Apr. 15, 1915,
reestablished
Sep. 22, 1916, and permanently discontinued on Oct. 15, 1918.
Little Elk post
office,
established Jul. 14, 1868, was located on Yaquina River at the
site of
present-day Eddyville. John L. Shipley was first postmaster of
this
office,
named for Little Elk Creek, a stream near whose mouth the office
was
situated.
The office was discontinued on Sep. 16, 172, and reestablished
on Oct.
20, 1873. It was discontinued Mar. 13, 1888, and reestablished
on May
31,
1892. The name of the office was changed to Eddyville on Oct. 7,
1893.
Early details of Little Elk have been compiled from a letter to
Emma
Allphin
McBride, Feb. 1938, from Florence Mason; Rachel Ann Henkle
Shipley
Kitson’s
interview with Fred Lockley 1937, and Branch V. Henkle
Genealogy, page
359. Rachel (1846-? IA) and John L. Shipley (1840-? MO) moved to
Little
Elk soon after their marriage. They were at Little Elk from 1864
to
1871.
John was postmaster of Little Elk, and kept the toll gate on the
Yaquina
Bay Wagon Road. The charge was 50 cents and 25 cents for a man
on
horseback.
The Shipleys had five daughters and one son. Two of their
granddaughters
are the late Ethel Shipley Smith and Opal Shipley Smith of
Toledo.
Their
sister, Florence Shipley Mason, married Sam Smith’s brother,
Tom, of
Coos
Bay. Lumber for the Shipley house was hauled from Henkle Sawmill
near
Philomath
to Summit the first day and it took another day to reach their
home at
Little Elk. They lived for the most part on wild meat—deer, elk
and
bear—and,
of course, “all the trout we could eat.” There was no graveyard
at
Little
Elk: One man was buried above the grade on the hill. The
Shipleys’
neighbors
were Charley Mayes, Pearl Bryant, and Ike Porter upriver, and
Rooks,
Ridenour,
Mike Brannon, Mathias L. Trapp, and Benj. and Nelson Thorpe
downriver.
McVays and Babers were across the river. The hills around Little
Elk
were
bare with underbrush. In 1859, a company was organized to build
a road.
Members of the road crew were: Dr. Bayley, A. B. Newton, Kit
Abbey,
Jacob
Henkle, Geo. Mercer, Saml. McClain and Icabod Henkle. They
blazed a
trail
so teams could go through to Pioneer City and Elk City, the head
of
navigation
on the Yaquina. In 1872, col. T. Egenton Hogg, a Confederate
soldier,
bought
the wagon road land for $25,000. The money was divided equally
among
the
eight who had carried out the project. He agreed to maintain the
road.
The tollgate was removed. Shipleys sold their land to Ezekiel
Eddy for
$1400, who paid for It with silver dollars. Eddy had said, “I
wouldn’t
a gi’en ten cents for the place if it hadn’t been for that
orchard.”
Among
those who were held as slaves in Oregon were Louis A.
Southworth, who
in
1855 purchased his freedom from his master in Polk County for
$1000,
and
Reuben Shipley of Benton County. Reuben Shipley had been a slave
in
Missouri,
according to Mark Phinney of Corvallis, who interviewed John B.
Horner,
professor of history. His master, Rbt. Shipley, trusted him to a
large
share in the training of his sons, whose mother had died, and he
was
regarded
as almost one of the family. When Shipley decided to come to
Oregon, he
promised Reuben his freedom if he would drive a team of oxen on
the
road.
Reuben left a wife in Missouri who died before he could send
money for
her. After he purchased his freedom, he was employed by Eldridge
Hartless,
who settled one mile south of Philomath in 1846. Hartless was
quite
well-to-do
and had many cattle. In a few years Reuben had saved $1500, and
with a
part of it he bought a grange where Mt. Union Cemetery and Mt.
Union
School
are now located. Now col. Nathaniel Ford, who settled in
Rickreall in
Polk
County in 1844, owned a young African American woman named Mary
Jane.
Ford
allowed Reuben to marry this woman and take her to his farm.
Then,
having
learned that Shipley had money, he came without knowledge to his
non-indian
friends, and made him believe that he must purchase his Fiance’s
freedom,
which he did for $700. Reuben and Mary Jane reared a large
family—Wallace,
Ella, Thms., Martha, Nellie and Edw.—on their 80 acre grange
four miles
west of Corvallis. Reuben was industrious and Mary Jane was a
splendid
housekeeper and the family entered into the life of the church
and the
community without too much consideration of the question of
social
equality.
When Wm. Wyatt, another pioneer spoke of the hill on Reuben
Shipley’s
farm
as a likely place for a cemetery, Reuben agreed to give two
acres for
that
purpose if he might be buried there. This two acres donated in
1861 was
the beginning of Mt. Union Cemetery where many of the pioneers
of
Benton
County are buried. Reuben is there among them. According to
Benton
County
Archives, page 18, he died in 1873 at the age of 74. His wife
Mary Jane
lived in Benton County until 1880. In after years she married
Alfred
Drake
and lived well into the third decade of the 20th century.
Logsden post
office,
located on the Siletz, eight miles east of the town of Siletz,
was
established
Jun. 11, 1921, with Wolverton C. Orton (1874-1963), first
postmaster.
The
office was formerly known as Orton, and was established Jun. 27,
1914,
with Philip H. Fliting (1873-1938) first postmaster. The name of
the
office
was changed to Logsden on Jun. 11, 1921. Hazel Schaffer,
postmaster at
Logsden in Apr. 1927, reported that the place was named for an
elderly
Indian who lived on the Siletz Reservation. There are several
men with
the surname Logsden who are buried in pioneer cemeteries
throughout the
Siletz area. Possibilities might include John, Jos. M. and Chas.
Logsden,
who are buried in the Logsden-Rock Creek Cemetery. During the
spring of
1885, a hotel and store was started at Caledonia near Toledo as
well as
the Chas. Logsden Sawmill, so it is most likely Logsden was
named for
him.
Most of the burials in the area within the boundaries of the
entrance
to
Moonshine Park above Logsden, east to the west side of Nash
Mountain
and
west to Sam Creek are in private and small cemeteries, unmarked
or lost
graves which have been verified through relatives, friends,
published
obituaries,
death records or mortuary records, and known graves which are on
private
property. The location of the known graves has not been revealed
here
due
to the problems experienced in recent years with vandalism of
Indian
grave
sites. Rbt. T. Fieber, 60, and Dotti Martin, 60, currently of
Otis were
arrested Jun. 9, 1999 on Idaho allegations of cruelty to
animals. The
two
were taken into custody on Bannock County warrants out of
Pocatello,
ID.
Fieber and Martin allegedly were charged in connection with the
care
they
provided large exotic cats. Several of the animals escaped,
necessitating
that they be shot. Also, about 100 wolves were kept by the
defendants
in
Idaho. The two were lodged in the Lincoln County Jail. Fieber at
one
time
reared exotic animals at Logsden.
Lutgens post
office,
located four miles south of Seal Rock on the north shore of
Alsea Bay,
was established May 17, 1890, with Albert H. Lutgens first
postmaster.
Numerous name changes mark the history of this post office as it
moved
about Alsea Bay. Lutgens post office, formerly known as Collins,
was
established
Jan. 31, 1875, with Matt. Brand first postmaster. This office,
once
known
as Drift Wood, was named in honor of Geo. W. Collins, the first
settler
in the Lower Alsea. Collins came in 1860 as Indian agent for the
subagency
of the Alsea Reservation. Formerly part of the Coast
Reservation, which
by treaty with the Indians extended for 90 miles along the coast
and
about
20 miles inland, Alsea Subagency near Yachats was established in
1856.
David D. Fagan’s History of Benton County records: “When the
white man
began to settle in the Alsea district they found there the
remnants of
three tribes: the ‘Alseas’ by the bay and on the coast, a people
of
fishers;
the ‘Klickitats’ who hunted in the woods and over the mountains
to the
south; and the ‘Drift Creek Indians’ whose homes were scattered
through
the heavy timber round Table Mountain and on the streams leading
thereabouts,
to the east and northeast of Alsea. Though generally at enmity
with
each
other yet there were times when, feuds laid aside, the hunting
tribes
visited
their neighbors by the ocean in peace, bringing with them the
spoils of
the chase to exchange for the sea fish and shell fish of the
Alseas.
Then
fires were lighted and feasting and jollity went on day after
day
together.”
The agency was closed in 1875 and Indians were forced to remove
to
Siletz
so whites could settle here. Collins post office was
discontinued Jun.
17, 1881. The name of the office was changed to Waldport on Feb.
23,
1882.
It was changed again to Lutgens on May 17, 1890, and to Stanford
on
Jul.
29, 1893, with W. C. Shepard serving as postmaster, and was
discontinued
Jun. 21, 1897. The name of that office was changed to Nice on
Apr. 24,
1917. Nice post office was named for Harry Nice, a prominent
Alsea Bay
resident during the last half of the 19th century. Nora L.
Strake was
the
first postmaster. The office was discontinued Nov. 15 1919.
Millville was
sited in
1867, as the culmination of the Premier Steam Mill’s success.
Located
on
Depot Slough, Premier Steam Mill was considered one of the best
steam
sawmills
in Oregon, sawing 7000 and 8000 feet per day. According to Royal
A.
Bensell
(1838-1921), the mill “had a lumber yard containing good
saleable
lumber;
boats coming and going, loaded with lumber all the time. This is
a
lively
place; some 15 hands employed.” Reports of daily lumber
production
fluctuated
from 6000 to 10,000 feet over the next few years, with lumber
selling
for
$15 per 1000 board feet in 1867. In 1868, the schooner T. Starr
King
arrived
at the mouth of the slough to pick up 140,000 feet of lumber. A
20 ton
schooner was even being constructed at the mill in 1867. In
1869, the
mill
was employing five men and working 11 hours a day, although not
without
danger, for Geo. R. Meggison nearly lost his hand the next year.
The
mill
spawned other activities, as a “magnificent ball” was held in “a
spacious
building near the sawmill” as early as August 1866.
Morrison Station
was
located on the Yaquina and the Southern Pacific Railway, about
four
miles
west of Chitwood. The post office was established Aug. 29, 1894,
with
Barney
Morrison (1827-1907) first postmaster. The name of the office
was
changed
to Pioneer on Oct. 4, 1900. Pioneer post office, located on the
Yaquina
near Pioneer Mountain, and about two miles north of Elk City,
was
established
Oct. 4, 1900, Morrison continuing to serve as postmaster. The
name
Pioneer
was selected because of the operations in that section of the
Pioneer
Sandstone
Company. The covered bridge over the Yaquina was directly in
front of
the
Pioneer post office. Maggie Bell Kleut prepared the mail sack at
Pioneer
post office. If there was no need to stop, she threw the sack
and
caught
the incoming mail on the platform at back. The post office
closed to
Elk
City on Aug. 31, 1929. The house burned while owned by Ethel
McClaflin.
Several square nails were found in the ashes. The rock quarry
can be
seen
through the alder trees. Margaret Attridge stood on the original
road
from
Pioneer to Newport and took a picture of the quarry in 1984. In
1985,
the
location was still, owned by Dond Darlene Deardoff. Barney
Morrison was
born Jun. 1, 1827 in Washington County, TN. He was married Apr.
1, 1846
to Zimma Stoner. The couple had six Girls and two boys. Of those
living
in 1907 were Ruth Embree of Dallas, J. H. Morrison of
Washington,
Chelsey
L. Morrison (1859-1940) of Pioneer, Tabitha Simpson and
Josephine
Bevens.
Morrison died at his home at Pioneer, Sep. 24, 1907 at the age
of 80
years,
three months and 24 days. The “good wife,” his obituary said,
survived
him.
Nashville was
named for
Wallis Nash (1837-1926), a native of Great Britain, who visited
Oregon
in 1877, and came to this state to settle in 1879. He was
prominently
identified
with various enterprises in Benton and Lincoln counties,
including the
construction of the railroad between Corvallis and Yaquina Bay.
Nashville
was located on the Southern Pacific Railway, about seven road
miles
northwest
of Wren. The post office was established Jun. 12, 1888, with
Jennie C.
Curry first postmaster. On Jul. 31, 1958, the office became a
rural
station
of Philomath, and was discontinued on Sep. 23, 1978. A prominent
figure
in Oregon and one of Benton County’s foremost citizens of
pioneer days,
Wallis Nash, passed away Sat. afternoon at the country house
near
Nashville,
in Lincoln County. The remains are being brought to Corvallis
today and
the funeral services will be held form the Episcopal church
immediately
after the arrival of the funeral party. Internment is to be in
the
Crystal
Lake Cemetery. Nash passed away Mar. 13, 1926. Nash was a native
of
England
and was probably 90 years of age. He came to Oregon in 1877,
passed two
years in Benton County and then returned to England. Nash then
headed
an
English colony that came to Benton County. The men in the party
were
here
to learning farming and the families settled on tracts over this
section.
Nash, himself, became interested in farming and planted the
first vetch
sown in Benton County. Vetch at that time was recognized as
tares, and
Nash won quite general criticism for his act. The seed was sown
on land
that is now the personal site of the forestry building and
gymnasium on
the OAC campus. With judge Stahan and judge M. L. Pipes, Nash
helped
frame
the constitution of OAC and had it ratified by the legislature.
Born
near
London, England, in 1837, Nash was educated at Mill Hill School
and New
College, University of London, and then further for his
profession of
lawyer,
finally becoming a senior member of Nash & Field,
solicitors, of
London.
Always interested in new ventures, Nash secured Alex. Graham
Bell’s
patent
rights to the telephone for England and the first message passed
from
there
to Queen Victoria, at Osborne House. Other important projects of
their
firm were the financial agreements for the first Atlantic cable
for
Cyrus
Field and for a large Brazilian railroad, and Nash helped the
framing
of
the first “limited liability” which passed by act of Parliament.
Nash
later
met Colonel T. Egenton Hogg in London, a Southerner who was much
enthused
over the great possibilities of Oregon, and came with him to the
new
country,
first in 1877 and returning in 1879. He was second
vice-president of
the
Oregon Pacific Railway Company for many years. Nash was
influential in
the construction of the Oregon Pacific Railway, from Yaquina
City to
Mill
City, now a part of the Southern Pacific lines, and was legal
advisor
for
the road and one of the promoters under the management of
Colonel Hogg
and his brother, Billy Hoag. He was one of the first reagents of
OAC,
serving
in the capacity of secretary. Later, for a brief time in the
fall of
1898,
he acted as president of the board. His early connection with
the
college
was at the time it was being turned over to the state and
released from
church control. Nash’s home was for many years on the present
campus,
He
and his family residing in the English mansion that stood in
pioneer
days
on the site of Waldo Hall. The old English home was then the
gathering
place and headquarters of the members of the English colony.
Following
the years in Corvallis, where he secured large farming acreage,
Nash
located
in Portland. He was for a time president of the board of trade
in
Portland
and for many years was an editorial writer for the Oregon
Journal and
the
Morning Oregonian. A writer of note, Nash was the authors of
several
books
on Oregon, including Two years in Oregon. He was renowned as an
English
scholar and was an accomplished pianist and recognized musician.
He was
a barrister in England during his young manhood but his law
practice in
Oregon was confined to brief periods in this city (Corvallis)
and
Portland.
The little Lincoln County town (Nashville) near which Nash spent
his
years
of retirement and where one or more of his books were written,
receives
its name from the beloved citizen who had done so much towards
the
development
of that section. He also was active in enlarging the CC and
brought to
the school the late Geo. Coote, florist, and other men (and
women) who
were prominent in the school. Nash was instrumental in
establishing the
Sanitation & Household Economy Department and bringing Dr.
Margaret
Snell to the OAC. Nash was twice married, the second Ms. Nash
passed
away
only two or three years ago. The children surviving include
Dorthea
Nash,
prominent in musical circles, in Portland, and the only
daughter. There
are four sons, Desmond, Percival, Rodney and Darwin Nash. Nash
played
the
organ in the Corvallis Episcopal church and also read the
service there
many years. In 1919, Wallis Nash wrote: “Bald Mountain and Grass
Mountain
look down on us [at Nashville] from the next ridge of the
encircling
hills,
and each season, as sit passes from the gray brown of the winter
fern
and
wild grass to the bright green of spring and the more sedate
green of
summer,
has a beauty all its own.” The view from Nash Mountain, the
highest
spot
on the Logsden-Nashville Road, about 800 feet above sea level,
is one
of
the more striking in the Coast Range.
Nelscott has
become an
important summer resort on US-10 about two miles north of Taft.
A
letter
by Alma Anderson, published in the North Lincoln Coast Guard,
May 4,
1939,
indicates that the name was formed by combining parts of the
names of
Chas.
P. Nelson and Dr. W. G. Scott, who opened the town site in Apr.
1926.
The
post office was established Aug. 2, 1929 with Nelson serving as
first
postmaster.
Nelson died in Dec. 1946. On Dec. 8, 1964, the town voted to
become a
part
of a new community to be called Lincoln City, and the post
office
closed
to the newly created town on Sep. 24, 1965. On the beach at
Nelscott,
as
elsewhere along the Oregon Coast, Japanese floats—colored glass
balls,
are frequently found. These floats—used as net supports by
Oriental
fishermen—are
carried across the ocean by the Japanese current. They are
prized by
tourists
for decorative purposes. A line of substantial cottages face the
ocean
here. North of Nelscott were the Elvin A. Thorpe and Harry
Thorpe
homesteads.
They were platted in the 1920s and named, after the Roosevelt
Military
Highway, Camp Roosevelt and Roosevelt-by-the-Sea. These tracts
subsequently
became part of the City of Delake.
Neotsu post
office, at
the northern end of Devils Lake, was established Mar. 28, 1928,
with
Frank
M. Hodges serving as first postmaster. The name is said to be an
Indian
word meaning “evil water.” Geo. Davidson, in the Coast Pilot,
1998,
uses
the spelling Na-ah-so, but does not explain the word. Devils
Lake has
been
referred to as me-sah’-chie-chuck, which is Chinook jargon for
“evil
water.”
There are a number of Indian legends about Devils Lake. The
Indians
believed
that in these waters lived powerful malign deities known as
skookums
that
occasionally rose to the surface to attack men. When used in
connection
with localities, the word skookum generally indicates a place
haunted
by
an evil spirit, or god of the woods. It sometimes meant a place
used as
a burial ground. In Clackamas County, Skookum Lake, about ten
acres in
size and 20 feet deep, is located on the north slope of Thunder
Mountain,
between Toketee Falls and OR-230. It drains into Fish Creek, a
tributary
of Clackamas River, and is stocked with brook trout. The modern
meaning
of the work skookum is quite different from the earlier
connotation; it
can also mean “stout” or strong,” and a skookum chuck did not
mean a
strong,
swift stream, but a place to stay away from. The word skookum
has been
applied to various geographic features in Oregon. Indians near
the
mouth
of Rogue River in Curry County built a fort or stockade on the
south
bank
of the stream about 15 miles from the ocean. Non-indian settlers
drove
the Indians out and took the fort. Skookumhouse Butte was named
on
account
of stockade incident, and the word skookumhouse was also used by
early
settlers to describe a jail. In contradistinction to a skookum,
a hehe
was a good spirit and a hehe chuck was a fine place for games,
races
and
other sports and festivities.
Newport is the
keystone
to the Pacific Northwest coast. The town spreads across a blunt
ridged
peninsula between the Pacific Ocean and Yaquina Bay. Though the
first
settler
arrived in 1855, it was several years before there was a village
here.
Traders and fishermen were the first arrivals. Then the people
of the
Willamette
Valley discovered it to be a delightful resort area and the
Ocean
House,
built in 1866, and the Abbey House and Fountain House, opened in
1871—all
facing the bay—began to draw visitors who would take the
five-day
coastal
voyage to San Francisco as a diversion. Others engaged in the
clam-digging
and crabbing that still attract many. This section remains the
commercial
center of town, which flourished in the 1890s when Yaquina Bay
ships
carried
away the products brought across the range from the Willamette
Valley
on
the old Oregon Pacific Railway. In 1873, the trip form Corvallis
took
from
early morning till dusk at night by stage (drawn by four horses,
changed
at noon for a fresh double team) which bumped and climbed over
the 49
miles
to Elk City where the mail boat waited for the 25 mile trip down
the
river
and bay to Newport; leaving the next morning on the first of the
ebb
tide.
Twelve miles down, the boat stopped at Toledo, then at Oneatta,
and
finally
at Newport, at a rickety wharf in front of Bay View Hotel
(latter
renamed
the Abbey). At the other end of town was Ocean House, owned by
Mary
Craigie
(1848-1933) and Saml. Case, which is the Coast Guard station
now. The
Portrait
And Biographical Record Of 1904, say that Mary Case “is
proprietor of
the
Ocean House at Newport, Oregon, which is famous for miles
around, and
has
a commanding view over the bar end and far out to sea.” Mary
Craigie
Case
(1848-1933) ran the resort after her husband died in 1897. Saml.
Case
had
built the health resort, which was a two-story building with 25
rooms
on
eight acres, on Yaquina Bay in the late 1860s and early 1870s. A
mother
of six, Case was a native of Boise City, ID, and the daughter of
a
Scotsman
who emigrated to the US when he was 21 and helped build the fort
at
Boise
City. Case was a “faithful attendant and active member of the
Episcopal
Church,” according to the record, and was “among the most
businesslike
and popular Ladies in Newport.” In between were four saloons, a
store,
over which was a hall used for dances, political meetings,
and—more
rarely—church
services whenever a minister of the gospel happened along. Near
the
sand
path up the hill to the beach of land occupied by the Ocean
House, took
a building quite imposing when compared to the rest of the town.
Lucy
Blue
wrote that “at that time the property was owned jointly by Saml.
Case
and
Dr. Jas. R. Bayley, the latter a physician in Corvallis. The
1885
History
of Benton County, Oregon says that Dr. Bayley “was born in Clark
County,
OH, 1918. He began his medical studies in 1841, and graduated
from Ohio
Medical College in 1884. He practiced medicine for four years in
Springfield,
OH before relocating in Cincinnati, where he enjoyed a
successful
practice
for seven years. In 1852, Bayley marred Elizabeth Harpole of
Green
County,
OH. The couple moved to Oregon in 1855, first locating in Polk
County.
In 1857, Bayley moved to Corvallis where he opened an office in
connection
with his pharmaceutical business. He was a member of the
Territorial
Council
in 1856 and again in 1857. He was elected Benton County judge on
two
occasions.
Bayley was also a state senator from Benton County in 1866 and
again in
1868, and was appointed supervisor of internal revenue in 1869,
and
office
he held until 1873. Afterwards, he devoted himself to his
medical
practice
in Corvallis, Newport and the Yaquina Bay region, where he spent
his
summers
and owned valuable property. The Bayleys also owned a beautiful
home in
Corvallis. Bayley was a 32nd degree Mason and grand high priest
and
grand
master of the Masonic jurisdiction of Oregon and had been a
prominent
Odd
Fellow.” Case and Bayley also owned the whole town site of
Newport
except
the few lots that had been sold and built upon along the shore
for the
space of two blocks. The town site was laid out by Case in 1873
and
named
by him for Newport, Rhode Island, where he lived at one time.
The Ocean
House was also named for the famous old hotel of that name at
the
eastern
resort.” About 1885, the railroad came to Yaquina City, then the
ferry
went from Yaquina City to Newport, and valley residents began
coming to
Newport for the summer. For the Fourth of July, 1885, the Oregon
Pacific
Railway announced the first of its grand excursions from
Corvallis to
the
coast. At 7am on the morning of the 4th, the trip started with
the
Little
Corvallis heading a train of flatcars each of which had been
fitted
with
railings and plank benches running lengthwise. About 70
passengers
climbed
aboard for the adventure, and they were not disappointed. In the
spring,
weeds flourished in Oregon, and since the tunnel had burned, few
trains
had run over the track. Between the ties and the rails, the
weeds grew
waist high and the Little Corvallis had trouble bucking its way
through
them. The sun poured down, and a light breeze swept the cars,
yet the
passengers
did not complain. At the burned-out tunnel, everyone unloaded
and
walked
over the road around the blockade to take another train waiting
on the
far side; a train like the first, with benches on flatcars, but
drawn
by
one of the heavier Rogers engines. Still all went merrily, the
only
disaster
coming when vice-president Wallis Nash had his hat blown off. At
Yaquina
City, a band tootled welcome, and the excursionists scrambled
onto
steamboats
for the trip to Newport. “Amid the noise and confusion, the
whistling
of
opposition boats and the sight of the ocean steamer Yaquina
might
easily
imagine himself on the San Francisco docks,” the editor of the
Corvallis
Gazette exclaimed. Daily round trips were made from Albany to
Yaquina
City,
and then by the old tug Newport on to the Newport Bayfront. In
winter,
if the Bay was rough, passengers sat in the engine room. No one
ever
seemed
to get seasick. Front-page news in 1957 was the purchase of the
Gilmore
Hotel in Newport by Donald L. Young of Portland from Cecile
Gilmore
(1883-1962),
owner and proprietor since 1920—37 years. Gilmore bought the
hotel with
her husband, Peter (1877-1929), in 1920. They operated the hotel
together
until 1929, when Peter G. Gilmore (1877-1929) passed away.
Cecile
Gilmore
then became the sole proprietor of the hotel. The couple moved
to the
area
in 1915 and started a dry goods store, which they then sold.
They lived
on a 5-acre tract for a short time before buying the hotel in
1920,
which
was described as a “landmark for many years on that section of
the
coast.”
The hotel stood on the site of the present-day Sylvia Beach
Hotel in
Nye
Beach. Gilmore, who is buried alongside her husband at Eureka
Cemetery
in Newport, retired from active business after selling her
hotel. The
arrival
of the Newport on the Bayfront was greeted by a band; Peter
Gilmore
from
the Gilmore Hotel, Elizabeth Schollenburg (1851-1938) of the
Grand
Rooms,
and others, ballyhooing for their hotels, each trying to drown
out the
others. In A Lawyer’s Life On Two Continents, Wallis Nash wrote
of his
excursion to Newport: “All the members of our little expedition
made
the
trip to Yaquina Bay, and gazed out to and over the Pacific on
the
sunset
of our arrival at the infant settlement of Newport at the mouth
of the
estuary. There were, even then, two little hotels, one on the
bluff
above,
other on the street facing the wharf at which the boats of the
settlers
on the shores of the bay were tied up. Beside the Abbey House
stood the
one dark little general store, to supply the little community.”
In the
dining room of The Abbey on the Bayfront was a big round dining
table
that
would seat 20 to 25 people. It was in the middle of the room
loaded
with
big platters of cracked crab and buckets of steamed clams, with
drawn
butter,
lemon and catsup for dunking. There were finger bowls, out of
which
Margaret
Peterson and her sister drank, much to the embarrassment of her
grandparents.
Later, Peterson’s father, Vivian Cartwright, and his mother had
the Bon
Bon Confectionery on Front Street. Some time between 1900 and
1908,
Vivian
Cartwright, Rich. Chatterton and Jack Fogarty, father of Frances
Burdett,
decided Newport should have electricity, so they built three
windmills
on the sandhills, and hooked up the necessary machinery to
generate
current.
Newport then had lights from 7am to 10pm. Newport could also
have a
movie
with electricity. The movie house was lighted by carbide lamps
to the
electricity
could be used to run the movie machine. The single feature
movies were
shown about where Mark’s Market Basket is now. John Fleming
Wilson
(1877-1922),
the author of numerous books, lived here for about three years
after
his
marriage in 1907. Mariner, schoolteacher, and newspaper
reporter, he
was
able to leave $90,000 earned by writing stories and novels, some
of
which
were based on material gathered in the Yaquina Bay district. For
22
years
(1962-1984), on the location of what is now the Circle K, was a
market
well-known to locals as Mark’s Market Basket. It’s proprietor,
Mark
Collson,
first started a grocery store on the Bayfront in a building
across the
street from what is now the public dock at the Abbey Street
Pier.
Before
he took over in 1952, it was called Ernie’s Market. Collson,
whose son
is now mayor of Newport (1996), operated at the Circle K
location until
1984. Mark’s Market Basket also included what is now Rickert
Gallery.
On
Jan. 1, 1908, there was a disastrous fire on the waterfront,
burning
from
about Mark’s Market Basket to the corner at Fall Street.
“Lover’s
Lane,”
also called Zig-Zag, commenced down the road from the Coast
Guard
Station,
wound up the bank through the most beautiful rhodies, ferns and
wild
flowers
to the top of the hill to the Midway Theater, which was “uptown”
in
those
days, where the Newport post office (now the Gateway Cafe) was
located.
The biggest attraction was the arrival of the mail. It came in
about
5pm
and the line was way up the sidewalk waiting for the
distribution. At
the
present location of Log Cabin Court was Log Cabin Inn, with a
beautiful
garden, small stream and tiny bridge. Special parties were held
there.
On the Fourth of July, the building and garden were lit by
Japanese
lanterns
and the best homemade ice-cream and cookies were served. Behind
the
city
hall was a tennis court, and long before that there was a lake
in front
of Bateman’s Funeral Home and back of the city hall. At the
southern
edge
of Newport, the Coast Highway passes through a landscaped park,
then
crosses
the Yaquina Bay Bridge, a graceful cantilever structure,
completed in
1936.
The bridge deck, rising to 138 feet above the channel water, is
high
enough
to permit the passage of ocean-going craft. After the completion
of the
bridge, the “top of the hill” and along the highway became the
main
part
of town. The tourists came and went overnight, and didn’t come
to stay
the months of July and August in the old days. Legend has it
that four
valuable diamonds were thrown into Yaquina Bay in 1915. A
Portland
resident
who died that year stipulated in his will that these stones,
which had
belonged to his mother, should be thrown into the water to keep
them
forever
from others. The view of the bay at sunset, when the fishing
fleet
rides
to anchor, is particularly attractive. This bay is also the
anchorage
for
the deep-sea fishing boats that carry visitors across the bar to
fish
and
to watch for the porpoises, sea lions, and whales occasionally
seen
offshore.
Newport is located on the north shore of Yaquina Bay. The post
office
was
established Jul. 2, 1868, with Saml. Case was first postmaster.
This is
the first post office on Yaquina Bay, and one of the first in
what was
later to become Lincoln County. The town was incorporated on
Nov. 4,
1882.
The council’s first action as recorded in the minutes of its
inaugural
meeting Nov. 4, 1882, was consideration and adoption of Ord. No.
1,
Article
I, of which read as follows: “No person shall be permitted to
sell
spirituous
liquors within the corporate limits of said city in less
quantities
than
one quart without having obtained a license from the city
council for
that
purpose.” Newport’s postmaster in 1939 was John Franklin Paden.
Paden,
the son of Lora Adams and John T. Paden, was born in El Dorado,
OK,
Dec.
28, 1903. The music man of the Central Oregon Coast, Paden
served as
director
of Newport City Band from 1931 to 1934, and the American Legion
Drum
and
Bugle Corps from 1936 to 1940. Paden married Maude Thames of
Smithville,
Texas, Mar. 18, 1907. The father of a daughter, Joyce, and four
sons,
J.
F. II, Alvin, Melvin, and Jas., Paden was chairman of the local
Boy
Scouts
in 1914. The Lincoln County Historical Society (LCHS) has been
preserving
historic moments since 1948, when it for Yaquina Bay Lighthouse
from
demolition.
Thanks to the Society’s research and restoration efforts, the
lighthouse
was nominated to the National Register of Historic Places. A
thriving
membership
has kept the LCHS growing. Today the LCHS operates two full
museums,
maintains
an extensive collection of artifacts and offers a fully equipped
research
library to the public. The Burrows House and Log Cabin museums
(located
at 545 9th Street, Newport) showcase the historic moments that
have
shaped
Lincoln County. Professionally designed exhibits tell of the
area’s
Native
American traditions; the birth of a prosperous logging industry
with
the
coming of WWI; the explosion of tourism with the completion of
the
Roosevelt
Military Highway; the evolution of the country’s maritime
industry.
Because
only a fraction of the Society’s collection can be displayed at
one
time,
exhibits are constantly changing. The Society’s artifacts are
preserved
in climate-controlled conditions monitored by staff trained in
museum
science.
Because of its expert collections management, the Society has
been
chosen
to house nationally recognized traveling exhibits. Thousands of
historic
photographs, news clippings, maps and other documents are
available to
the public for research in the Burrows House. Society staff
members
help
everyone from scholars to schoolchildren research towns, homes,
families
and heirlooms. Newport is now primarily a resort with a somewhat
Victorian
appearance in the older areas. Shell-fishing gives it some
commercial
importance.
Crabs, clams, and oysters—the latter artificially planted to
renew the
supply—are shipped inland. Oystering is done in flat-bottomed
boats
with
the aid of long-handled tongs.
Newton, now known
as
Elk City, is located on the Yaquina at the mouth of Elk Creek.
It is
said
to have been the first settlement in what is now Lincoln County.
Postal
records show that Newton post office was established in Jul. 14,
1868,
with Edwin Alden Abbey, first postmaster. Abbey, who was fondly
called
Kit, was born in New York in 1824. Marshall Winchester Simpson
became
postmaster
in Nov. 1869. He was out of the office for a few years, but held
the
position
again on Nov. 23, 1888, when the name of the office was changed
from
Newton
to Elk City. It is said that he instigated the change.
Statements to
the
effect that Elk City was named by pioneer settlers about 1865 do
not
agree
with the records unless the locality and the post office went by
different
names. This has happened at a number of places in Oregon.
Nice post office,
formerly
Lutgens, was established Apr. 24, 1917. The office was
discontinued
Nov.
15 1919. It was named for capt. Henry “Harry” Nice (1837-1921),
a
prominent
Alsea Bay resident during the last half of the 19th century.
Nora L.
Strake
was the first postmaster.54
Nortons is located on the Southern Pacific
Railway,
about six miles west of Nashville. The post office was
established Apr.
6, 1895, with Jas. S. Huntington first postmaster. The office
closed to
Eddyville on Jan. 15, 1934. The community was originally called
Norton,
but postal authorities did not accept this name as there was
another
office
in Clackamas County of the same name so the “s” was added. In
former
times,
Nortons, named for Lucius Norton who owned a ranch nearby, was a
station
on the Corvallis & Yaquina Bay Railroad. A weathered and
decrepit
structure
that once housed the general store and post office stands by the
road
site.
Nortons, like Elk City and Hoskins, is another ghost village in
appearance.
The first military wagon road linking the Summit-Nashville area
to the
Corvallis-Elk City wagon route was built in the 1860s. It was
graveled
from Summit to Nashville around 1930, and paved in 1947. In
1910, Carey
Peck, the community blacksmith, carved a new road along the
right-of-way
to the Clem Road to Burnt Woods on Highway 20. He was paid with
county
script, as was customary in that day, and had considerable
difficulty
cashing
them for provisions. The road now graveled, opened up a new
artery of
travel
to and from the area, which throughout the years has helped the
Nashville-Summit
residents considerably. Around 1912, when Jim Highland brought
the
first
automobile to the Nashville area, the family’s team of carriage
and
horses,
the reliable pack-horse and the plodding draft teams obtained
their
first
glimpse of their retributive justice. In 1903, the first store
in
Nashville
was owned by Bruce Hamar. It served as a depot and waiting
station
along
the route of the early railroad. At that time, the store was
also the
post
office. When another large portion of the original Siletz
Reservation
was
thrown open to homesteading in 1895, the Nashville-Summit area
offered
the quickest and easiest route to the virgin timberlands of the
northeastern
part of the county. Logging and lumbering were carried on in a
small
way
with an ox team. Manpower predominated. The first donkey engines
were
used
by Wallace A. Moody of Parkdale. In 1895, his father helped Sim
Benson,
who sold his oxen and bought enough donkey engines to run his
logging
operations
and set up the first logging camp. In 1927, Ted Harmsen came to
the
Summit
area and herded 2000 Angora goats over the hills. In 1936,
Harmsen
&
Hall built their first sawmill on the Earl Davis ranch. In 1945,
Harmsen
erected a sawmill at Nashville, which burned down in Jun. 1949.
In
1950,
a new electric mill was constructed with a planer added to its
equipment
in 1954. The first lumber was hand stacked, then shipped to
Eugene.
Harmsen
received $8 to $9 per thousand board feet. In 1913, early
telephone
communication
in the area was first attempted on a neighborhood basis. In
1977, Clara
Howard Mears of Lake Mills, Wisconsin, wrote: “The coming of the
telephone
was quite an exciting event there as elsewhere. I remember my
brother
coming
home from town and telling us that he heard mr. Mansfield
speaking from
his John Creek office to some one in a store at Lake Mills as
plainly
as
he ever heard him when present. My nephew and I rigged up a
telephone
with
two tin cans and a wire over which we talked.” The switchboard
was
located
at Summit, and extended through Nashville to the Chapman place.
Rodney
L. Nash, son of Wallis Nash, made the first call on his phone.
It was
Jul.
16, 1913, the day his daughter, Mary Lou, was born. The doctor
was
summoned
to assist in the delivery. However, this line was not kept in
repair,
and
for many years the closest telephone service was at Summit. On
Nov. 7,
1954, Nashville was connected with a modern dial system under
the
Pioneer
Telephone Company. In Oct. 1944, Nashville Grange No. 903 was
organized
by Jesse Reeder. Clyde Hamar was the first master of the Grange.
Gladys
Hinshaw was its first Secretary. In early 1932, the Nashville
Gas &
Oil Company drilled an extraordinary oil well on the outskirts
of the
town.
In Mar. 1923, the well was drilled to a depth of 480 feet. Small
quantities
of gas were present. The well was abandoned a short time later,
and
only
recently have options been renewed, and new incorporation papers
filled
in the amount of $250,000. Mary Lou Nash Commons was the
daughter of
Faith
Lister and R. L. Nash, and the Granddaughter of railroad baron
Wallis
Nash.
In 1963, she was managing the family’s fine cattle ranch. That
year,
she
hosted a potluck picnic for the Salem DAR, who spent the day
learning
about
the Nash family and their contributions to Lincoln County.
Singing
“Home
On The Range,” was almost too much for Mary Lou, who was devoted
to her
many pets. Her parents were selling the ranch her grandfather,
acquired
during the building of the railroad. The move was in keeping
with the
health
and age of her parents. Hamar, or Yaquina Lake, three miles
northwest
of
Nashville, is a point of interest. In 1887, the lake was formed
by a
slide
which blocked the course of the Little Yaquina River on land
formerly
owned
by Chas. Hamar during his absence. In past years, the state Fish
&
Game Commission has stocked the lake with fingerling trout. On
Apr. 3,
1914, Peter Meads (1820-1914 KY), who once owned the place at
Nortons
now
owned by Harry Porter, died at Walla Walla on Monday. His
obituary said
that “Meads and his family homesteaded a place at Nortons in the
spring
of 1867 and lived on it some 20 years when he sold out and moved
to
Walla
Walla, where he has lived until his death. Meads was well-known
to the
early settlers of Yaquina Bay. He used to team over the roads
hauling
oysters
and clams from Elk City to Corvallis. This was done in the worst
part
of
winter and over the muddiest kind of roads. Meads never stopped
for
rain
or mud. He had a nice home at Walla Walla and enjoyed life in
his later
days. He was 84 years old. His wife, Rebecca Jane Carter
(1841-1911 MO)
died about three years ago. She was a sister of Siletz
Reservation
physician
Franklin Marion Carter of Elk City. The Meads are survived by
the
couple’s
children: Wm. H. (1860-? OR), Olive A. (1862-? OR), Solomon S.
(1864-?
OR), Elijah F. (1866-? OR), and John S. (1869-? OR). So one by
one the
pioneers are passing away leaving behind them a name of honor,
courage,
perseverance and hospitality. May they rest in peace.” Nortons
Cemetery
is located near Homer Edwards’ farm not far from Eddyville.
Evelyn
Parry
visited Nortons Cemetery in 1975, and says there is a marker
identifying
the site of the first schoolhouse in Lincoln County under a
large fir
tree.
The grave sites are about a quarter of a mile further on toward
Eddyville.
The cemetery is about one block from the road. A big tree covers
the
fenced
graveyard. The property is owned by Lincoln County. A Jul. 1898
issue
of
the Lincoln County Leader, states that H. S. Porter thanks those
who
helped
erect the memorial stone commemorating his mother. “Those who
helped me
knew of no other graves here,” he said: “Elizabeth Lee Porter’s
(1831-1898)
obituary states that she was born in Harrison County, OH on Nov.
4,
1831.
She was a graduate of Wheeling College, PA. In Nov. 1893, she
married
Andrew
J. Porter (1827-1881), who was a surveyor. The couple moved to
Oregon
in
1864 and homesteaded at Nortons in 1865. Their home was at one
time an
overnight stopping place for travelers.” Porter first began
educating
children
in her home. Lincoln County’s first schoolhouse was built in
1866, and
Porter was the first teacher. She died at Nortons in 1898. The
inscription
on the memorial stone reads: “At Rest: Porter, Andrew J
(1827-1881);
Porter,
Elizabeth Lee (1831-1898); First School in Lincoln County, AD
1866;
Elizabeth
Lee Porter— Teacher.
Nye Beach, one of
the
oldest and finest beachside communities on the Oregon Coast, was
once a
separate community. John T. Nye (1832-1911) was one of the
earliest
settlers
at Yaquina Bay. He took a homestead along the beach and was
instrumental
in the development of the area. His property is now occupied by
motels
and houses facing the beach in front of Newport.56 Since the
late
1800s,
people have been coming to this favored place to seek solace in
and
alongside
the Pacific Ocean. John T. Nye was one of the earliest settlers
at
Yaquina
Bay. He took up a homestead along the beach and was instrumental
in the
development of the area. His property is now occupied by motels
and
houses
facing the beach in front of Newport. Nye was just 13 years old
when
his
father, Michael Nye, died in 1844. John became an apprentice
tailor,
presumably
to help support the family. He continued working in this trade
in his
home
state of Ohio until 1859, when he crossed the plains with a team
of
oxen.
At Pikes Peak, County, he opted to turn around and retrace his
steps to
Atchison, KA. During his second attempt on the trail, he stopped
in
Salt
lake City, UT, where he traded his oxen for horses. Completing
the trip
without major incident, Nye spent the winter of 1860 in
Corvallis. The
following spring he left for the Rock Creek mines in British
Columbia.
He spent a few months mining before returning to Corvallis,
where he
remained
for about six months before enlisting in the Union Army as a
tailor in
Company A, First Oregon Volunteers. In his 19 months of service,
he was
stationed at Fort Vancouver, Fort Yamhill and Camp Polk. After
being
mustered
out of the service in 1863, he returned to Corvallis to work as
a
general
store clerk for nearly two years. He also worked on the
construction of
what eventually became Highway 20. In 1865, Nye headed west and
took
out
a claim on the land we know today as Nye Beach. His cabin sat at
the
present-day
intersection of Brook and Third streets. Nye’s obituary states
this was
the second house to be built in Newport. Apparently he did some
mining
in Nye Creek, which ran right next to his cabin. According to a
biographical
sketch written on Nye in 1904, he was a fulltime resident of Nye
Beach
for must 19 months while he “proved up” on his claim Nye
retained
ownership
of his claim, however, until 1880, when he sold it “at a large
profit”
to developer Sam Irvin. In 1871, Nye traveled to Indiana to
marry Olive
Kist, a native of Ohio. When Nye platted Nye Beach, renamed
Olive
Street
for her. When the newly weds returned from Indiana, they settled
down
in
Corvallis, where they remained for about three years. In 1874,
the Nyes
returned to this area when they took up another 160-acre
homestead,
this
time east of Newport, near the present-day intersection of
Fruitvale
Road
and Highway 20. Together John and Olive farmed their land and
raised
eight
children. John Nye spent the rest of his days on his Fruitvale
ranch.
He
died in 1911. Olive Kist Nye (1849-1936) lived out her days on
the
nearby
farm owned by her son, Andrew. Frail and aging, she seldom made
a trip
to Newport. On a rare visit in 1925, she returned to the site of
the
Nye
cabin. She told a newspaper reporter, “While the city is very
nice...
you
have no idea what a beautiful sight this little valley was in
the old
days.”
Olive Kist Nye died in 1936 at age 87.59 In 1893, Fall Street
was
completed.
It was then a wood plank road which covered the area from the
Bayfront
to Nye Beach. At this time, Nye Beach and Bayfront were separate
communities,
each with its own identity. This walkway was replaced by a road
two
years
later as Newport began to grow.61 In 1975, Wave Leslie Belt and
Margaret
Peterson wrote that “there were plank roads laid by the
government
engineer
who was building Cape Foulweather Lighthouse. One went over the
hill to
Nye Beach where supplies for the lighthouse were taken to
Jump-Off Joe
and along the beach to Agate Beach and Yaquina Head Lighthouse.
Nye
Beach
was one old tumbled-down shanty marking the ground that had been
taken
some years ago by one Johnny Nye, and abandoned for a claim
further
inland
that was more of a success as a farm.” Most of the cottages were
built
in the prosperous years between 1910 and 1930. Wives and
children would
spend the summer in the cottages: their husbands and fathers
joining
them
on weekends. In 1902, Dr. Henry J. Minthorn of Newberg, uncle of
pres.
Herbert C. Hoover (1874-1964), built a sanitarium with hot sea
water
baths
just north of what is now the Sylvia Beach Hotel. He donated the
land
for
the public bathhouse, now the Yaquina Art Center, which was
financed
and
built by the Nye Beach Association in 1913. On Feb. 16, 1945,
Nye Beach
post office was as a contract station of Newport. The office was
discontinued
Jan. 31, 1950.64 Belt and Peterson commented that “in the
evenings a
crowd
of young people gathered at the skating rink or at the Nye Beach
Natatorium
where there was a swimming and dance hall. There were bathhouses
on the
beach at Nye Beach at the turn-around, before the “Nat” was
built.
People
went in these, changed to swimming clothes, went bathing in the
surf,
came
out, washed off the sand in the bath house, dressed, and went on
their
way.” Nye Beach became a literary center for the study of the
sciences,
especially geology, biology and botany. Students could attend
summer
college
classes in a specially built auditorium. One of the most popular
spots
on the coast was the Natatorium, a large building with an indoor
pool
located
at the foot of Beach Drive, the site of the present pedestrian
plaza at
the turnaround overlooking the ocean. The “Nat” had a dance
floor and
over
the years also featured bowling, boxing matches, miniature golf
and
movies.
Newport’s first movie theater was just up the street. Today, as
a
century
ago, this colorful seaside community provides the same charm and
beauty
in a warm, friendly village of shops, services, guest
accommodations,
restaurants
and art galleries.
Ocean View post
office
was established Nov. 5, 1887 and discontinued Sep. 27, 1893. It
was
re-established
Apr. 27, 1904 and discontinued again Oct. 13, 1916. The office
was
located
about a mile north of Yachats, and named descriptively. Geo. M.
Starr
(1817-?
OH), was the first postmaster.
Oceanlake is a
coast
town of about 400 supported by sportsmen and tourists. It is
located
west
of Devils Lake on the Oregon Coast Highway. The name called
attention
to
this position between the lake and the ocean. On Dec. 8, 1964,
the
cities
of Oceanlake, Delake, and Taft and the unincorporated
communities of
Cutler
City and Nelscott voted to combine to form a single new
community,
Lincoln
City. Oceanlake post office, formerly known as Delake, was
established
Mar. 15, 1927, with Arthur C. Deuel first postmaster. The name
of the
office
was changed to Lincoln City Sep. 25, 1965.68 While stationed at
Siletz,
fr. Chas. Raymond founded a small resort town on 80 acres of
land,
between
Devils Lake and the Pacific Ocean, a little to the north of D
River. He
gave It his own family name, but It was afterwards known as
Oceanlake.
In 1966, it become part of Lincoln City. Although this shore of
the
Pacific
is not marked by any great gulfs or peninsulas, it is punctuated
many
lofty
headlands—great spurs of the Coastal Range, which sweep down
beyond the
beaches and overshadow the shallows with spectacular cliffs and
strew
them
with tall islets of volcanic basalt. Between one headland and
the next,
many lakes open up and various coastal streams spread estuaries
and mud
flats. The abundant shellfish of these shores had fed countless
aboriginal
generations before ever the non-indian settlers flocked to their
commercial
advantages. Early settlement sought access to the Willamette
Valley.
This
could be had either by wagon road or by trail. By the year 1924,
west-to-east
access was available at many points along the coast. There had,
for
instance,
always been some sort of a road up Salmon River and over into
the South
Yamhill Valley, near Grand Ronde; and for some years now Toledo
had
been
connected with Corvallis by rail. But north-south access from
one
coastal
settlement to the still remained very limited, and in most cases
primitive.
Stories abound of how difficult it was to travel over or around
the
headlands.
It was, therefore, quite a feat, both politically and in terms
of
engineering,
when, in 1924, all the coastal settlements clubbed together to
build
one
continuous coastal highway. In those days They called it
Roosevelt
Highway;
we today call its updated successor US-101. Until such a
thoroughfare
was
built, the only practical way for Fr. Raymond to get from Siletz
to
Devils
Lake was to begin on foot, to continue by boat, and to do the
last
stretch
by horseback. It is not easy to pinpoint the spot where fr.
Raymond and
his horse experience so wonderful a calm amid the storm. This is
partly
because the lay of the land has changed enormously over the
years, as
was
explained to the present author by one of the earliest
inhabitants of
his
town, Leonore Campau McGinty. Before offering details from maps
and
official
documents, we would like to pass along the geographical elements
learned
from McGinty. Leonore Campau was nine years old the first time
her
father
drove the family down from Portland. The roads were then such
that He
chose
a roundabout route, requiring nine hours’ travel: from Portland
south
to
Salem, then west to Grande Ronde Agency. The old road down
Salmon River
to Rose Lodge was in poor condition, and so they headed west to
Dolph,
and then north to Hebo, where they struck the fresh gravel of
the newly
built Roosevelt Highway. This they followed down the Nestucca,
through
Cloverdale, and so south to Raymond Town. From Hebo onward, they
needed
a government permit and had to tag along behind the road-grader.
On
later
trips, fr. Raymond often drove along behind them, to profit by
their
permit.
Campau wanted to buy several lots in a cluster, so that his
Mother and
other family members could each have their beach cottage. The
lots
measured
about 100’ X 100’ apiece, and sold for $50. By way of
comparison,
Campau’s
plumbing business in Portland used to net, in those days, about
$85 per
month. The townsite was still forested, except where the highway
had
been
cut through. And so, to choose his cluster of lots, Campau had
his
wife’s
young brother climb a tree and see if He could spot any
“canyon,”
leading
from the ocean to the lake, and promising someday to become a
major
thoroughfare.
He did spot a bit of a ravine, running east-west, and so Campau
made
that
the heart of his cluster. The ravine proved to be a blessing,
for,
though
it had only a tiny catchment area, and though it has long since
been
filled
in by landscapers, in those days it had a steady flow of water,
enough
for both drinking and washing. This presence of “canyons” at
Raymond
Town,
or at least of ravines, streams and small eminences, is also
shown on
the
original survey of the site, both by the indication of some
watercourses
and by the name fr. Raymond chose for certain streets, as we
shall now
see. For the purposes of land ownership, Oregon, like other
states, is
divided into east-west and north-south bands, each six miles
wide,
though
with due allowance for the curvature of the earth. The east-west
bands
are known as “townships” and the north-south as “ranges.” The
whole of
Oregon is thus made up of great squares, six miles by six, each
named
for
the crossing of a numbered “township” and a numbered “range.”
Such
squares
are then subdivided into 36 numbered “sections,” each being one
mile
square.
The earliest non-indian settlers, taking advantage of the Land
Donation
laws, simply picked their acreage as the lay of the best land
suggested,
but by fr. Raymond’s time, purchase of virgin land normally
respected
the
legal lines. Typically, purchases were made in 40-acre units,
each a
quarter-mile
square, but in fr. Raymond’s case, the presence of the beach and
of the
highway called for some adjustment. Fr. Raymond might well have
wished
to buy a band of land stretching neatly from the ocean to the
lake—a
distance
of about a mile—but what he actually bought was 80 acres, in the
shape
of a reversed “L,” defined partly by the “section” lines and
partly by
the highway. The “L” measured some 2000 feet from beach inland,
and
some
2500 feet from the edge of the highway to the base line. The
original
survey
set up the pattern of streets that still holds today, but their
names
were
changed when the town was incorporated into modern Lincoln City.
In
terms
of present-day street names, fr. Raymond’s purchase ran from NW
10th
Street
up to NW 21st Street. The lower part to the reversed “L,” from
10th
Street
up through 15th Street, intersecting with north-south streets,
from
modern
Inlet Avenue to modern Port Avenue; but the narrower upper part
of the
“L,” from 16th Street to 21st Street, touched the highway,
embraced Oar
Avenue and reached as far as modern Port Avenue. The names fr.
Raymond
gave these streets are quite interesting. As we mentioned above,
some
refer
to geographical details. Port Avenue was called Lakeside, and
10th
Street
was called Brookside. Oar Avenue was called Nob View, perhaps a
misspelled
reference to “knob,” or hillock, visible from there. Similarly,
18th
Street
was called Sunset Street, perhaps as offering views of the sun
setting
over the Pacific Ocean. And 16th Street was named Summit Street,
presumably
on account of a ridge passing through there in those days. Also,
19th
Street
was Ferndale Street, presumably named for a dip where ferns
abounded.
The
name Oceanlake was given to a street which seemed to lend itself
to
extension
all the way from the ocean to the lake, and which has indeed
since been
extended a large part of that way, under the name NW 14th
Street. As
for
Campau’s “canyon,” this corresponded to modern 15th Street, and
the
original
plat seems to show its little stream trickling down to the
ocean, with
a bit of a track alongside It for access to the beach. This
street was
approximately given the same name as the town itself—Raymond.
Similarly,
modern Keel Avenue was given the name of the county—Lincoln; and
modern
21st, that of the state—Oregon. Interestingly, modern Mast
Avenue was
named
Park Avenue, as if fr. Raymond had plans of a picnic ground
there,
though,
of course, the main picnic area was going to be the grounds of
the
Saint
August, which was located on the west side of the highway, at
the
extreme
southeast corner of the town. Businesses, likewise, were to be
concentrated
along the highway. In fact, the legal document for each
residential
sale
had a clause forbidding any dance hall or gambling place to be
set up
there.
No mention was made of sale of alcohol, for Prohibition was
still in
force.
Fr. Raymond was not adverse to dancing, nor to modest gambling.
One of
the very first buildings in the business section was, in fact, a
dance
hall, run by a trusted friend. But It would be contrary to the
whole
purpose
of the town to have strangers competing with the community’s own
recreation
facility. And as for modest gambling, Leonore McGinty recalls
how, on
the
first night they spent there, fr. Raymond invited the family to
pitch
their
tent right at the church. The children were sent to bed early,
and the
priest then enjoyed card games with the grown-ups late into the
summer
evening!
Olssonville, now
part
of Newport in the area of the Embarcadero, on the shore of the
bay, was
the site of a blockhouse established by lt. Philip H. Sheridan
in 1856.
Sheridan selected the only suitable spot for the little fort but
found
the site covered with hundreds of burial canoes. After mediation
the
Indians
suddenly agreed to the removal of the canoes, but refused to
take them
away themselves. At high tide, Sheridan’s soldiers launched the
strange
flotilla and the canoes, each bearing its dead, drifted slowly
out
toward
the sunset with the receding waters. The old IOOF Hall was moved
to
Newport
after the disastrous fire of 1908 and is presently in use as a
gift
shop.
Florence Hofer Bynon and her brothers, Mac and Laurence, who
spent
summers
in a cottage owned by Captain Olsson, the founder of
Olssonville,
shared
quiet moments with Anne, an Indian woman, at low tide on the
beach at
Newport.
Bynon’s mother bought baskets for 25 cents. The Hofers were from
Salem.
Colonel Hoffer, Florence’s father, hitched his black
Hambletonian
trotter,
Duke, to a buggy and rode over the Coast Range from Salem to
Newport to
enjoy their summer retreat. Olsson Creek flows south through
Newport
into
Yaquina Bay. Early maps show both Olsson’s Addition and
Olssonville
near
the mouth but the entire area is now part of Newport.
Ona is a place on
Beaver
Creek, three miles east of Seal Rock, which winds through Ona
Beach
State
Park, where a charming footbridge crosses the creek to sandy
beach. The
community is not on the seashore and not near clam beds.
However, the
word
ona comes from the Chinook jargon word ee-na, but may mean
either
“razor
clam” or “beaver” for the two words have similar
transliterations. If
ee-na
means beaver in this case, it is appropriate to the location of
this
place
on Beaver Creek. Ona post office was established Apr. 17, 1890,
with
Wm.
H. Hulse first postmaster. On Jun. 11, 1890, Lucidettie C. Grant
became
the postmaster, and took care of the mail until Feb. 14, 1898
when
Jacob
Blazer took the job. He held it until Apr. 14, 1898 when Thms.
Harrison
held the position. It reverted back to Wm. Hulse Jul. 7, 1902.
Mary
Lewis
was postmaster Apr. 12, 1907 through Jul. 13, 1909, when A. L.
“Levi”
Commons
was awarded the position. Geo. Selby was appointed postmaster
Oct. 12,
1912, and Clara Commons took charge Oct. 14, 1915. Enos Wilson
was the
next postmaster, appointed Jul. 16, 1919. Lillian P. Puram
became the
last
postmaster on Jan. 12, 1920, and the office closed to Toledo
Aug. 31,
1920.
The Ona post office was kept in a small room of the Hulse house
in
1912.
Then it was moved to a small building on the Wilson ranch. Later
on it
was again moved back to a small building built for this purpose
on the
Hulse place. Ona has a connection with one of Lincoln County’s
famous
sons.
L. D. Nash, the son of Louisa A. Desboroughs and Wallis Nash,
the
English
writer and railroad builder who settled Nashville, was born in
Corvallis,
Jun. 7, 1880. In 1916, he married Fay Commons of Ona. Nash
worked for
American
Steel and Wire Company in San Francisco from 1900 to 1905, after
which
he engaged in grange and livestock operations. He served in the
Oregon
State Legislature, and represented Polk and Lincoln counties in
1931,
and
Lincoln County in 1939. Ben Horning taught at the Ryan School,
1909.
His
students were Oscar and Chester Ryan, and Evelyn, and Filiz
Gatens.
Horning
also taught at the Storrs School and probably others to earn
money for
his higher education. For many years, he has been an eminent
physician.
He was the younger brother of the late Fred and Elmer Horning of
Toledo,
and the son of Mary Jones and Thms. Horning. In 1919, a new Ona
schoolhouse
was built by Horrey Wood, replacing the Baptist Church building,
erected
in 1891. In 1943, this school was closed and the children were
transported
by bus to schools in Waldport.
Oneatta is a ghost
town
on the northeast bank of the Yaquina, a mile and a half upstream
from
Yaquina
City, and about a mile west of Winant. There are few names
indelibly
connected
with the history of Yaquina Bay than cpt Jas. J. Winant
(1838-1895),
who
was born in upstate New York, Apr. 12, 1838. In the fall of 1856
he
followed
his brother Mark to California where they began dealing in
oysters in
San
Francisco Bay; they were the real pioneers of the oyster trade
on the
Pacific
Coast. Winant was master of vessels on the Pacific Coast for
nearly a
third
of a century. He had command of the schooner Anna G. Doyle,
running
between
Shoalwater Bay and Oysterville, WA, and San Francisco in the
1860s. In
1862 or 1863, they began the oyster trade on Yaquina Bay. In
Jun.,
1882,
Winant married Amy A. Peck in Alameda County, CA. They had one
child,
Anita.
Winant was located at Oysterville Station on the Corvallis &
Eastern
Railway, about two miles due south of Yaquina City, on the north
bank
of
the Yaquina. The post office was established Nov. 17, 1902, with
Emma
Leabo
first postmaster. The office closed to Yaquina City Nov. 30,
1946. The
first schooner was built by Peck & Company, and named the
Oneatta,
by Kellogg Brothers, but the first steamer to ply on the bay was
the
Pioneer,
in charge of George Kellogg, MD. The first sermon was preached
by elder
Gilmore Callison of Lane County, his audience being seated on
the
driftwood
opposite the present site of Newport. On the completion of the
Central
Railroad, they brought from the East several car loads of
eastern
oysters,
planting one car load in San Francisco Bay and the other in
Yaquina
Bay,
and reaped a harvest from both beds. He traded pearls in the
South
Pacific
and hunted walrus and whales along the shore of Alaska, the
Aleutian
Islands,
and the coast of Siberia. A salvage voyage to the coast of
Mexico,
where
he explored the sunken steamship City of San Francisco and
recovered
$22,000
of her treasure, was the climax of his legendary career. A
little
hamlet
of about 60 people, Oneatta was located on land owned by judge
Allen
Parker,
who was born in Ross County, OH, in 1828. His family crossed the
plains
in 1852, first settling in Linn County. In 1872, Parker was
elected
sheriff
of Linn County and mayor of Albany in 1876. He moved to Benton
County
in
1878, and purchased considerable property in Oneatta, on Yaquina
Bay,
where
he owned a large sawmill. In 1880 and again in 1882, Parker was
elected
to the house of representatives. The town was first settled and
named
by
Siletz Indian agent Ben Simpson (1848-1910) in 1871, and
consisted of a
furniture store, two saloons, a book and shoe store and the post
office,
which was established May 17, 1876, with John. E. Peterson first
postmaster.
The Oneatta Sawmill, owned and operated by Parker, was
originally built
in Simpson. It was driven by steam and had a capacity of 20,000
board
feet
per day, and gave employment to 14 men—most of the time—the
timber cut
being chiefly fir. In 1893, the Lincoln County Leader wrote:
“Owen C.
Simpson
is making his parents in Elk City a visit during lay off of
Parker Mill
at Oneatta on lower bay near Yaquina City.” The post office was
discontinued
Jul. 13, 1877, and re-established Jan. 24, 1879. The office
closed to
Toledo
on Sep. 29, 1886. Chas. Schmidt, one of the 60 inhabitants of
Oneatta,
was born in Seidelinghousen, Westphalia, Prussia, in 1843. He
emigrated
to America in 1867, and spent his first year in Galena, IL. From
there
he moved to Sioux City, IA. Smith relocated San Francisco in
1872,
where
he owned a popular resort called Saint Ann’s Rest, located on
Eddy
Street.
In 1880, he settled in Oregon. After a short stay in Portland,
he
settled
at Oneatta on Yaquina Bay. Moses Gregson, another Oneatta
settler, was
born in Lancashire, England, Mar. 4, 1836. At an early age, he
learned
the trade of carpenter and joiner, which he mastered. At the age
of 20,
he emigrated to America, first settling in Lockport, NY, where
he
resided
until 1863 when he moved to Michigan. In the spring of 1877,
Gregson
moved
to Benton County, and first took up a claim near Marys Peak. In
1880,
he
purchased 35 acres of land near the Custom House at Yaquina City
and
opened
a carpenter’s shop is at Oneatta. The Custom House is situated
about a
quarter of a mile north of the dock at Yaquina City, and was
erected in
1881. The port collector was Collins Van Cleve. In 1873, the
trip from
Corvallis took from early morning till dusk at night by stage
(drawn by
four horses, changed at noon for a fresh double team) which
bumped and
climbed over the 49 miles to Elk City where the mail boat waited
for
the
25 mile trip down the river and bay to Newport; leaving the next
morning
on the first of the ebb tide. Twelve miles down, the boat
stopped at
Toledo,
then at Oneatta, and finally at Newport, at a rickety wharf in
front of
Bay View Hotel (latter renamed the Abbey). At the other end of
town was
Ocean House, which is the coast guard station now. In between
were four
saloons, a store, over which was a hall used for dances,
political
meetings,
and—more rarely—church services whenever a minister of the
gospel
happened
along. Near the sand path up the hill to the beach of land
occupied by
the Ocean House, took a building quite imposing when compared to
the
rest
of the town. The community was named for an Indian Princess of
legendary
beauty and virtue, described by Alfred B. Meacham, in Wigwam And
Warpath.
A possible candidate for Princess Oneatta is Oneatta Reynolds
Jones
(1885-1912)
who is buried at Toledo Cemetery. She was the wife of Everett
Jones and
the Grandmother of Julia A. Parker. Col. Meacham was a member of
the
Modoc
Peace Commission. In 1863, he established the Blue Mountain in
the
Eastern
Oregon town that bears his name, just outside the borders of the
Umatilla
Reservation. In 1873, he was wounded when he and fellow peace
commissioners,
Canby and Thomas, were advancing under a flag of truce in an
effort to
reach peaceful settlement to the bloody and costly Modoc War.
His life
was saved by the intervention of the peace loving Winema, at the
risk
of
her own. Married at an early age to a non-indian, Winema
mastered the
English
language and became an interpreter and intermediary in
negotiations
between
her people and their conquerors. For her devotion to th cause of
peace,
congress later voted her a life pension. The Klamath Falls
chapter of
the
DAR has erected over her grave in Schonchin Cemetery a tablet
bearing
the
inscription, “Winema—The Strong Heart.”
Orton post
office,
located
on the Siletz about eight miles due east of Siletz, was
established
Jun.
27, 1914, with Philip H. Fliting (1873-1938) first postmaster.
The name
of the office was changed to Logsden on Jun. 11, 1921. Wolverton
C.
Orton
(1874-1963), for whom Orton was named, was first postmaster of
the
Logsden
office. Hazel Schaffer, postmaster at Logsden in Apr. 1927,
reported
that
the place was named for an elderly Indian who lived on the
Siletz
Reservation.
There are several men with the surname Logsden who are buried in
pioneer
cemeteries throughout the Siletz area. Possibilities might
include
John,
Jos. M. and Chas. Logsden, who are buried in the Logsden-Rock
Creek
Cemetery.
During the spring of 1885, a hotel and store was started at
Caledonia
near
Toledo as well as the Chas. Logsden Sawmill, so it is most
likely
Logsden
was named for him. Most of the burials in the area within the
boundaries
of the entrance to Moonshine Park above Logsden, east to the
west side
of Nash Mountain and west to Sam Creek are in private and small
cemeteries,
unmarked or lost graves which have been verified through
relatives,
friends,
published obituaries, death records or mortuary records, and
known
graves
which are on private property. The location of the known graves
has not
been revealed here due to the problems experienced in recent
years with
vandalism of Indian grave sites.
Otis post office,
established
Apr. 24, 1900, is located on Oregon route 18 near its junction
with the
Coast Highway. Archibald S. Thompson was first postmaster of
this
office,
which was probably named for maj. gen. Ewell S. Otis, who
commanded the
Department of the Pacific and was military governor of the
Philippines
at the time this post office was established. Elmer Calkins of
Otis
said
that in the early days there were seven important fords on the
trail
down
Salmon River. The last was at Slick Rock Creek and was so named
because
the smooth, mossy rock of the streambed was a bad spot for
horses.
Edith
Modlin wrote: “There used to be a high school at Rose Lodge
which was
started
in 1920 and had about eight or ten pupils. The Grange Hall was
used as
a schoolhouse. At that time, it was a two-story building and the
upstairs
was used as a gymnasium where basketball games were played.
Donated
labor
partitioned the building for school use. Water was carried from
nearby
Slick Rock Creek. The toilet facilities were outhouses.” In
1980, Wm.
Erdmann
of the State Forestry Dept. wrote to give the origin of the name
of the
high ground south of Salmon River between Otis and Grand Ronde.
About
1900,
the mail was delivered out of the Butler store in Grand Ronde.
The mail
route ran along Salmon River near the base of the mountain but
as local
residents were widely scattered, the letters were left in an old
saddle
bag which hung on a prominent snag. Mail service improved over
the
years
and the saddle bag is long gone. However, after WWII the name
mysteriously
changed to Saddle Bag Mountain. In 1980 the USBGN corrected the
matter
in Decision List 8104.
Otter Rock post
office,
located on US-101, eight miles north of Newport, was established
Apr.
13,
1913, with Thms. Horning first postmaster. The office was
discontinued
Sep. 3, 1971. The name originated from the 36-feet high sea
stack
situated
about one half mile offshore and three and a quarter miles north
of
Yaquina
Head. About a mile to the north is a larger rock. Sea otter
formerly
inhabited
these rocks. No one has been able to learn who suggested the
name
either
of the rock or for the post office. In 1919, Wallis Nash wrote:
“...a
couple
of Indians came in out of the dark, one carrying slung over his
shoulder,
some long, dark beast, which he jerked on the counter before the
storekeeper.
Moseley pricked up his ears and came to the notice. From nose
tip to
tail
the animal was about four to five and a half feet long, plainly
of the
otter type—the fur dark brown and glossy: but the feet were
webbed...
The
Indian began to dicker with “Bush” [Hammond] for the hide: the
bidding
started at $200, and Moseley’s face fell, for, by slow degrees
it went
up to $400, and changed hands at that. The price was too high
for him,
and he had to content himself with the skeleton, which we
arranged to
have
cleaned by the ants at a neighboring, ant-heap in the woods. In
due
time
the skeleton followed him to Oxford and took its unique place in
the
Museum
of Natural History. Even then these sea otters were rare—now
they are
all
but extinct. They live in the great kelp fields along the ocean
front.
There they are shot from the shore with long range rifles. One
otter
means
a year’s work for white or Indian hunters. If one is seen
disporting
itself
in the kelp, it is followed up and down the coast for miles
until the
chance
for a shot comes: then all is staked on success which is much
rarer
than
failure.”
Oyster City, a
ghost
town, is the site of Mo’s Oyster Farm which supplies Mo’s
Chowder House
located next to Aunt Belinda’s candy shop on Newport’s Bayfront.
Before
the building became used for what it is today, it was known as
the Good
Eats Cafe. In 1942, Mohava Niemi and a partner purchased the
Good Eats
and renamed it Freddie & Mo’s. Later, when her partner
dropped out,
the name was shortened to Mo’s. It has a world-wide reputation
for
first
class clam chowder and seafood. It also has the distinction of
being
one
of the few restaurants in the world that has a garage door as
part of
its
store front. The building was never used as a garage. In the
mid-1960s,
a surprised woman drove her car through the front of the
building all
the
way to the cash register. Instead of patching the huge hole left
by the
car, a garage door was installed. On cool days, when the door is
closed,
a painting of a woman behind the wheel of a car can be seen. In
1968,
Mo’s
was a stopping place on the presidential campaign for Rbt. F.
Kennedy
(1925-1968).
There are three species of clams that thrive in Yaquina Bay.
They are:
(1) gaper (horseneck clams), (2) cockle, and (3) soft shell
clams. The
gaper and cockle are found in the mud flats on the north and
south
sides
of the Bay approximately half a mile up the Bay from the Yaquina
Bay
Bridge.
Soft shell clams are found farther up the Bay, along the edge of
any of
the small mud flats. Gapers lived 14 to 16 inches below the
surface of
the mud flats, and must be dug up with a shovel. Cockles live
only two
to three inches below the surface and can simply be raked up.
The soft
shell clam lives 8 to 14 inches below the surface and can be
taken with
a shovel at 0.0 inches low tide or less. Other clams, such as
butter,
little
neck, bent nose, sand, and razor clams are in Yaquina Bay but
are not
as
plentiful.
Oysterville was a
railroad
station on the Corvallis & Eastern Railway. The post office,
located
at Winant, about two miles due south of Yaquina City, on the
north bank
of the Yaquina, was established Nov. 17, 1902, with Emma Leabo
first
postmaster.
It closed to Yaquina City on Nov. 30, 1946. The Yaquina Bay
oyster
industry
has an illustrious history. It had its start in the 1860s, when
thousands
of pounds of the small native oysters were harvested and shipped
to
Portland
and San Francisco on coastal schooners which sailed into the
harbor to
deliver cargo from California and load oysters and lumber for
transport
to the Golden State. The town of Oysterville was established at
the
site
of the Oregon Oyster Company and directly across the Yaquina
from
Oyster
City. The oysters were so popular that they were almost
harvested into
extinction. Pacific and Kumamoto oysters have now replaced the
once-famous
native. In 1865 an oyster schooner, Annie Doyle, was wrecked in
Yaquina
Bay near the site of Oysterville. On board was a seaman named
Meinert
Wachsmuth,
a German-born immigrant. The incident nearly ended his sailing
career,
but not his interest in oysters. His family still owns the
Oregon
Oyster
Company which consists of 70 acres of Yaquina Bay oyster beds
and the
Oyster
Bar in Portland. Dr. B. F. Hutchinson and Melvin McKee, his
adopted
son,
were found dead Aug. 16, 1882, ages 75 and 14, at their
residence on
McCaffrey
Slough (Oysterville). The two had been murdered. Cash from the
sale of
cattle was missing.
Pikes Camp is on
the
northeast or right bank of the Siletz about a mile upstream from
the
mouth
of the river and the location of Kernville in 1945. It is near
the old
ferry landing and about opposite the former Kernville post
office,
which
was on the southwest bank. The camp was named for a fisherman
who
camped
there while he fished for the Kern cannery.
Pioneer was
located at
the head of tidewater, about two miles north from Elk City on
the
Yaquina
River. This old town was laid out in 1866 by Dr. Geo. E.
Kellogg, who
also
built the first house on the site, in 1865, which was used as a
warehouse
to accommodate trade on the Yaquina. Kellogg was division
commercial
supervisor
of the present Pacific Telephone & Telegram Company in 1927.
In
1873,
E. S. Altree erected a gristmill in the vicinity of Pioneer. It
was
soon
afterwards carried away by a freshet in the river. Pioneer Rock
Quarry
was located about 200 yards up the canyon west of Pioneer on the
right
hand side of the creek. Up this narrow creek bed was also the
path of
the
old military wagon road as it continued its journey to Toledo.
Pioneer
Sandstone Company, Morrison Station, Yaquina rock, and the
Bevens
quarry
all tie together. Work began Sep. 1893, and on Oct. 12, 1894,
Pioneer
shipped
the first rock to San Francisco for the construction of several
buildings.
Tests were made that proved the stone from the two quarries of
Howe and
Morrison at Pioneer was of superior quality and such information
was
sent
to the government for a decision regarding the Federal building.
An
1893
issue of the Lincoln County Leader states in its locals Pioneer
needed
its own store and post office, because those facilities were
“too far
away.”
The article also stated that “Salem is planning to build a city
hall. A
community inspecting [sic] unanimously agreed that Pioneer Rock
Quarry
in Lincoln County has the best stone they’ve inspected—it takes
a nicer
finish more easily, worked [sic] and withstands pressure and
effect of
the heat; is better than any other. All the bids must be
estimated on
Pioneer
stone.” An Aug. issue of the Leader pointed out that “in a short
time
Pioneer
Rock Quarry will begin shipping random stones to city hall at
Salem, 50
or 60 car loads will be used.” Frederick C. Hoffman was a stone
cutter
from Denmark. He opened a small quarry on his place on the
Yaquina.
Hoffman
built doorsteps, gravestones and well curbs. His second wife was
Rosy
Bly.
They were parents of Lemuel Hoffman, known for his tugboats used
in
towing
rafts of logs and other river work. The Oct. 19 issue of the
Leader
said
that Hoffman, “with a full set of tools has gone to work out
stone of
Dave
Ramsdell place. He is an expert, and pronounces the stone of
superior
quality.”
Large sheets of stone were broken off and place on railroad
cars,
reloaded
on scows at Yaquina, and towed to San Francisco. The Mar. 14,
1894
issue
of the Leader stated that the work was well underway and that
piling
was
“...ready for Elk City Bridge. Frederick C. Hoffman of Ramsdell
Rock
Quarry
will handle rocks on scows the style of the Rebecca. Pioneer
Rock
Quarry
now has ten men working there and will add 12 to 15 soon.” The
Apr. 26
issue of the Leader proudly announced that “Pioneer Rock Quarry
shipped
its first rock to San Francisco yesterday,” and the Jul. issue
proclaimed
that the workers “...have rock quarries on all sides of us now.
Frederick
C. Hoffman has a fine prospect now on F. M. Carter’s place two
miles
from
town. He has now four ledges in sight with 32 feet of solid rock
and
very
little rock waste. Pioneer Rock Quarry is running night and day.
Frank
Woods of Albany has commenced work on Barney Morrison’s place to
supply
building stone.” Tracy Davis was captain on one of the tugs.
Oldtimer
Virgil
Landess met a man who cut and shaped blocks on the California
job.
Buildings
that are known to be made of this rock, are the San Francisco
post
office
and the Parrott, Call and Monadnock. Genealogist Peggy Collins
worked
in
an office in the building, which is located near the corner of
Third
and
Market streets. The building withstood the 1906 earthquake that
virtually
destroyed San Francisco. Clifford Benson recalled the Education
Hall as
one of several buildings at OSU was made of Pioneer stone that
was
shipped
to Corvallis via railroad. Pioneer stone was used in Portland in
the
Selling-Hirsh
building and the Auditorium. The stone was considered—and
possibly
used—for
Salem City Hall in 1894. Pioneer post office was established
Oct. 4,
1900,
with Barney Morrison (1827-1907) first postmaster. The post
office was
for some years known as Morrison, and was established Aug. 29,
1894,
with
Morrison serving as postmaster. It was located on the Yaquina
and the
Southern
Pacific Railway, about four miles west of Chitwood. The name of
that
office
was changed to Pioneer because of confusion with Morrison Street
in
Portland.
The name Pioneer was selected because of the operations in that
section
of the Pioneer Sandstone Company. Morrison continued to act
postmaster
at Pioneer after the name was changed. The covered bridge over
the
Yaquina
was directly in front of the Pioneer post office. In 1921-1922,
much of
the stone was used in building the Newport jetties, those “long
fingers
extending seaward from the promontories” west of Yaquina Bay
Bridge. A
huge hand-worked stone in the Elk City Cemetery was erected by
the
fellow
workmen in memory of Wm. R. Mosier who was killed at Pioneer
Rock
Quarry,
Dec. 5, 1894. He and his wife had five children and lived in one
of the
quarry houses. The bookkeeping records from this early work were
destroyed,
according to the late Maggie Bell Kleut, who worked at Pioneer
post
office.
Kleut and Ike Burpee made inquiries assisting Lewis A. McArthur
(1883-1951)
to authenticate information in his 1928 first edition of Oregon
Geographic
Names, which was revised and enlarged in 1992 by his son, Lewis
L.
McArthur.
Pioneer City was
located
about two and a quarter miles up the Yaquina from the place
later known
as Elk City and about three quarters of a mile downstream from
the
place
later known as Morrison and still later Pioneer. The two
similarly
named
communities were not the same locality, though they were not
more than
a mile apart. Pioneer City sat on the inclined base of a hill,
sandwiched
between two rock bluffs, overlooking the bend of the river just
before
the Pioneer site, and was on the same side of the river as
Pioneer,
across
from the county road. Pioneer City was named in honor of the
steamer
Pioneer,
owned by Dr. Geo. E. Kellogg and engaged in general
transportation from
the mouth of Yaquina Bay to the new community at tidewater. The
Southern
Pacific Railway track now runs along the front of the site where
boats
were docked while people made their way up the steep bank a
hundred or
so feet to the settlement. On Sep. 16, 1864, cpl. Royal A.
Bensell
wrote
in his journal: “Clear. Start with Hatch to Yaquina Bay, taking
a canoe
at the Depot, and sending our mules around by the trail. Reach
Oysterville
by 4pm and stay all night. The little steamer Pioneer and a
skiff of
capt.
Dodges’ convey passengers, principally pleasure seekers, to and
from
the
mouth of Elk Creek.” Pioneer was later named Morrison Station,
and was
located on the Yaquina and the Southern Pacific Railway, about
four
miles
west of Chitwood. Named for Zimma and Barney Morrison
(1827-1907), the
post office was established Aug. 29, 1894, with Morrison first
postmaster.
Morrison was born Jun. 1, 1827 in Washington County, Tennessee.
He was
married Zimma Stoner on Apr. 1, 1846, and the couple had eight
children.
Pioneer post office, located on the Yaquina near Pioneer
Mountain, and
about two miles north of Elk City, was established Oct. 4, 1900,
and
Morrison
continued to serve as postmaster. The name Pioneer was selected
because
of the operations in that section of the Pioneer Sandstone
Company. The
covered bridge over the Yaquina was directly in front of the
post
office.
Morrison died at his home at Pioneer, Sep. 24, 1907 at the age
of 80
years,
three months and 24 days. Of those children living at the time
of
Morrison’s
death were Ruth Embree of Dallas, J. H. Morrison of Washington,
Chelsey
L. Morrison (1859-1940) of Pioneer, Tabitha Simpson and
Josephine
Bevens.
The “Good Wife,” his obituary said, also survived him. Maggie
Bell
Kleut
prepared the mail sack at the Pioneer office. If there was no
need to
stop,
she threw the sack and caught the incoming mail on the platform
at
back.
The post office closed to Elk City on Aug. 31, 1929, and the
house
burned
down while owned by Ethel McClaflin. Several square nails were
found in
the ashes. The rock quarry can be seen through the surrounding
alders.
Margaret Attridge stood on the original road from Pioneer to
Newport
and
took a picture of the quarry in 1984. In 1985, the location was
still
owned
by Dond Darlene Deardoff. The Pioneer City post office was
established
Jul. 2, 1868, with G. E. Kellogg first postmaster. The Newport
post
office
was established the same day. That same year, Elk City was
established
Jul. 12, and Little Elk, Toledo, and Yaquina City opened their
doors on
Jul. 14. These six offices took care of the postal needs in that
part
of
Oregon for several years. Pioneer Mountain and Pioneer Summit
are west
of those old post office locations. The mountain was named
before the
Pioneer
City post office, which closed on Aug. 10, 1868, after less than
a
month
in operation. The locality was later served by the Morrison and
Pioneer
post offices.
Roots post
office,
located
on the Siletz at the mouth of Roots Creek, five miles east of
Depoe
Bay,
was established May 24, 1897, with Thms. A. Roots first
postmaster. The
office seems to have been moved from time to time if maps of
that
period
are to be relied on. Roots post office closed to Siletz Oct. 15,
1906.
Roots Creek flows into the Siletz from the east about a mile
north of
Mowrey
Landing.
Rose Lodge,
located on
Salmon River, about four miles east of Otis, was named for the
rose
bower
or “gazebo” over the gate of the first postmaster, Julia E.
Dodson,
wife
of Oliver McMinn Dodson. Dodson had a rose bower or “gazebo”
over her
front
gate, and named the post office, established Feb. 8, 1908, on
that
account.
On Dec. 30, 1964, the Rose Lodge office was designated a rural
station
of Otis. When the first squatters came to the north end of
Lincoln
County
they couldn’t have foreseen the changes that have taken place
and
visioned
that it would become the home of many retirees who sought the
quiet
beauty
and mild climate of this coastal community. Maybe the name “Rose
Lodge”
sounded inviting. A person wouldn’t expect to find roses in this
remote
wilderness, planted by Ms. Dodson who had received 50 different
varieties
of roses from her father who lived in California. The first
homesteaders
came to the area about 1888, and several others followed. Among
those
were
Walt Crowley, Jim Crowley, Olvie and Tom Ackerson, John, Marion,
Ples
and
Henry Deaken, John Fletcher, Clint Star, Jasper Agee and Frank
Gesner,
most of them settled on Slick Rock Creek. Otis McMillen, Jacob
Sleighter,
and Bill Gorton were among the squatters on Bear Creek. The
Wesley
Horner
homestead was in a remote area of Bear Creek. Other early
squatters
coming
to the coast to make a living in the forested valleys included
the
Lauri
Makis, the Will Blooms, and Eric Lunds. The Jas. Slater family
came in
1919, and the Irwin Hubbard family came in 1923. Alex. Seder
settled on
Bear Creek, and Rbt. Seder lived near what is now the Rose Lodge
Store.
He was one resident who had received his mail at the Rose Lodge
post
office
for over 50 years. Life was trying in those early days, and
roads did
not
exist. Supplies were brought in from Sheridan, and to reach Rose
Lodge
the Salmon River had to be forded six times, and Slick Rock
Creek once.
The squatters did not want for meat and fish. Venison was
plentiful,
and
when the salmon were spawning and Salmon River would be alive
with
salmon
to the extent that wagons had to wait for schools of fish to
swim be
before
they could cross the river with a team. Log cabins were the
first homes
for these sturdy squatters, and babies were born with the help
of a
neighbor.
Ms. Eric Lund, who had been a practical nurse in Spokane,
Washington
before
coming to the coastal area assisted in many of the births. Some
women
even
bore their babies while alone on homesteads when their menfolk
were
away
from the home. There were no dentists in the area, but
“Granddad”
Crowley
did own a pair of forceps, and when someone had an unbearable
toothache,
he would pull the infected tooth for the sufferer, free of
charge. The
Kangiser family moved to Rose Lodge and put in a new mill,
providing
employment
for many as well as better housing for the residents. Chas.
Harding put
in a small store which was a great convenience for the
squatters. Otis
McMillen hauled freight for the store, as well as others who
needed
items
from the valley. Later, Howard McMillen had the contract to
clear the
right-of-way
for the new highway between Rose Lodge and Otis. He also hauled
the
mail
between these two points. In the summertime, his wife, Beulah
McMillen,
hauled the mail while her spouse worked elsewhere. The McMillens
are
now
spending their retirement years in a home near Otis. Slick Rock
Creek
boasted
a covered bridge located near the Eric Lund place. This has now
been
razed
and replaced by a new bridge, and instead of serving just a few
residents
it is being used for many with which to make their homes. As the
valley
widens toward the sea, typical tideland growth becomes abundant.
Logging
is the chief industry, but a small cheese factory has been in
operation
since 1907. Willow, ash, and alder trees root in the marshy
land, and
in
spring, the broad-leafed skunk cabbage lifts its yellow bloom.
Salado settlement
was
located some 12 miles up the Big Elk from Elk City. The post
office was
established Apr. 18, 1891, with Geo. A. Hodges serving as first
postmaster.
Hodges managed the post office with his wife, Levina Sager, and
carried
the mail between Elk City and Harlan three times a week. Hodges
named
the
post office and community for his former home, Salado, TX.
Salado is a
Spanish word meaning “salty” or “saline,” or a “plain encrusted
with
salt.”
Salt, along with sulfur, helium, asphalt, graphite, bromine,
natural
gas,
cement and clay, give Texas first place in mineral production.
The City
of Grand Saline northeast of Salado grew from a primitive salt
works
established
in 1845, and is not the site of one of the largest salt plants
in the
nation.
The salt dome under the city is about 1.5 miles across and some
16,000
feet thick; it could supply the world’s need for salt for 20,000
years.
In Western Texas, the small community of Salt Flat grew near
extensive
surface salt deposits left by intermittent lakes in Hudspeth
County
just
west of the Guadalupe Mountains. The area was the focus of a
bloody
dispute
known as the Salt Wars of the 1860s and 1870s. Before the
dispute
reached
a confused, tragic end, it had involved both Mexican and US
citizens,
political
parties, legislators, mob action, army troops and Texas Rangers.
Murder,
assassination and revenge killings took place on both sides. A
charming
Bell County village on I-35 south of Temple in Central Texas,
Salado
dates
from the state’s early days. Situated south of Stillhouse Hollow
Lake,
the town grew around the Sterling C. Robertson home and
plantation, and
was incorporated in 1867. Named for Salado Creek, the town
prospered
with
the founding of Salado College in 1860, and was prominent on the
Chisholm
Trail. The first farmer’s Grange in Texas was established in
1873. But
when bypassed by the railroad, the late 19th Century’s ultimate
transportation
mode, the college closed and the town dwindled to the status of
an
isolated
village. Tree-shaded Salado Creek, which was Texas’ first
designated
natural
landmark, was the site of an Indian campground long before
recorded
history.
Since Main Street was part of the Chisholm Trail, ruts from
wagon
wheels
still appear in the bedrock of the creek just north Pace Park.
The
visitor’s
register at the Stagecoach Inn, a prominent site on the Chisholm
Trail
in the 19th Century, reads like a frontier Who’s Who: Geo. A.
Custer
(1839-1876),
Rbt. E. Lee (1807-1870), Sam Houston (1793-1863), Jesse James
(1847-1882)
and Shanghai Pierce were among the celebrated guests. Formerly
known as
Shady Villa Inn, the primary old frame structure is today
restored as a
notable restaurant, surrounded by a modern motor inn. On Apr.
23, 1907,
the Salado Post Office burned to the ground, and it was not
until Mar.
27, 1911 that it was re-established. At this time George and
Levina’s
son,
Jim, started carrying the route as a free agent. In 1912 the
government
let a contract for the job for the first time, and Jim won the
job. On
Jul. 31, 1944, the Salado office closed to Elk City. Jim Hodges
carried
the mail in this area continuously for 45 years, except for two
four-year
contract periods when Wm. Clark outbid him on one occasion, and
Andrew
Bristlin underbid him another. Jim’s son, Henry, did most of the
carrying
in the later years of his tenure. The route was probably one of
the
shortest
and smallest in Lincoln County. In the 1950s, it served 13
families,
and
at no time, ever went over 20 boxes. It was 12 miles in length
and was
carried twice a week. On May 31, 1956, the Post Office
Department
opened
bids for a new mail route to serve the Elk City-Harlan areas in
Lincoln
County. Under the new proposal, the route would be carried every
day.
And
instead of starting at Elk City and going up the river only 12
miles,
it
would start at Blodgett and serve Nashville, Eddyville, Elk City
and
Harlan,
serving approximately 210 boxes.
Salishan is
an
excellent example of a well-chosen name for a commercial
development.
In
1964 John Gray of Portland began the development of a planned
community
and resort motel at the south end of Siletz Bay. The careful
planning
of
architect John Storrs and landscape architect Barbara Fealy
integrated
the public facilities east of US-101 into the rolling terrain
and
typical
coast vegetation. The name Salishan was taken from Salish tribe.
Although
more numerous north of the Columbia, this linguistic group was
represented
south of that river by the Tillamook and the Siletz. The Siletz
River
flows
through Lincoln and Polk counties. The Siletz were the
southernmost
Salish
tribe on the Oregon Coast. The name now designates all the
tribes on
the
former Siletz Reservation —Athabascan, Yakonian, Kusan,
Takelman,
Shasta
and Shahaptian linguistic families. The name has been called
Celeste,
Neselitch,
and Sailect. Siletz River was named for these Indians. There was
for
many
years a Siletz Agency in Oregon. It is estimated there were 2000
Indians
at Siletz Agency in 1867.
Schooner Creek is
a
well-known
stream that flows into Siletz Bay just south of Taft. In 1945
Andrew L.
Porter of Newport said that the stream was named for a shipwreck
of a
large
vessel, at least “100 feet between perpendiculars and of about
30 feet
in beam,” the remains of which are in the sands of Siletz Bay.
The
exact
type of ship, its actual name and the year it drifted into the
bay are
still debated. Perhaps it was the Blanco which capsized off
Siletz Bay
in 1864; or the Sunbeam, hailing from New Jersey, which
disappeared in
1887. Porter reported that some of the ship’s ribs were still
showing
above
the sand at low tide. Porter also said that he understood that
about
1894
the ship’s bell was taken to Grand Ronde and used at the Indian
School.
The schooner was hauled above high tide by means of oxen and
tackle and
in 1944 it was reported that some of her remains were on the
ground. A
small point of rocks about a quarter of a mile north of the
mouth of
the
creek is called Schooner Point. P A model of a schooner was
built and
donated
to the North Lincoln County Museum by Dr. Norman C. Hall.
Seal Rock was the
terminus
of the Corvallis & Yaquina Bay Wagon Road, the first road to
reach
the Oregon Coast from the Willamette Valley. The townsite was
platted
in
1887 and a large hotel was built. Development lagged and the
federal
and
assets of the road company were transferred, at least on paper,
to the
Oregon Pacific Railway promotion of T. Egerton Hogg.86 The area
has a
illustrious
history, dating back to the mid-1800s. In May 1864, cpl. Royal
A.
Bensell
wrote about Seal Illahee in his journal: “Clear. Cross the Alsea
River
by swimming. Passed Collins Mine by 8:30am. Shortly afterwards
we pass
Seal Illahee, saw plenty of huge seal barking on the bare rocks.
These
seal weigh from 1000 to 1200 pounds. The fur is worthless. The
Indians
kill a great many. The meat is said to be good.”87 In 1868,
Capt. A. W.
Chase located Seal Illahee, rocks which are covered with sea
lions that
form a ledge of partly submerged rocks extending parallel to the
coast
for about two and a half miles and a distance of a half to three
quarters
of a mile from the beach. The highest rock rises about 20 feet
above
water.
The Coast Pilot used the name Seal Rocks, and that style was
used in
pioneer
days for the locality along the shore about ten miles south of
Newport.
There is one large rock at the shoreline and several smaller
ones. The
place was called Seal Illahee, meaning “seal place” or “seal
home.” The
word Illahee signifies earth or stone, in Chinook Jargon, and
these
rocks
were at that time and are yet the breeding ground for the
Stellar seal,
that have proven so destructive to fish and so attractive to the
thousands
who annually visit the Cliff House on the coast of California,
near the
City of San Francisco. Yaquina Bay, with its splendid coast
fisheries
extending
north and south of the Bay a distance of 75 miles, abounding in
a
variety
of fish, the quality and quantity of which cannot be found
elsewhere in
Oregon, was destined to furnish the great interior with this
valuable
commodity,
very much as the lakes furnish white fish for the people of the
western
states. It was one of the many dormant resources which the
completion
of
the Oregon Pacific Railway helped develop. The pleasure seekers
then
and
now come here and spend a day or a week along the coast fishing,
after
the style of those who “go down to the sea” on the Eastern
coast, and
cast
a line for a codfish, bluefish or mackerel. At that time, it was
speculated
that probably no place in Oregon would be so popular as the now
nonexistent
Yaquina City for the toiling thousands who, in later years,
would come
here to enjoy the ocean breeze, and for a time escape the heat
of the
valley.
Naturally possessing greater attractions than other sea ports,
early
speculators
thought little remained to be done to furnish accommodations and
such
“artificial
amusements” as the public taste demands. Seal Rock is the
terminus of
an
eight mile beach, and once characterized as being “one of the
finest
drives
in the world.” The land opposite the rock was described as being
“well
situated for hotel purposes, the purest water, cozy little
rocks, and a
delightful view of the coast and ocean.” The inner ledge of rock
is
habitat
to almost every variety of water fowl, while seals can be seen
on the
outer
rocks, and with a glass of ordinary power, the habits of that
strange
animal
could be observed. There being no reserved seats on the rock,
actual
possession
maintained by a constant warfare is the rule. The scene is
exciting,
instructive
and entertaining, and will attract the most indifferent. Well
protected
from the north winds, Seal Illahee was billed as “suitable for
sea
bathing”
during the early settlement period. “The beach is a shoal and
full of
warm
places—natural bathtubs or bathing places, free from the danger
of
undertow;
a child could play in these places with perfect safety.” The
completion
of the Oregon Pacific Railway opened to capital many profitable
investments,
but it was speculated that “probably none, considering the
outlay
required,
would prove more remunerative than the erection of a hotel and
the
improvement
of grounds near Seal Rock,” a challenge took up 1887 by Lydia
Owens and
Jas. W. Brassfield who attempted to develop the area. South of
Highlands
and For Far, which were developed in 1888 by Wm. Grant, a
Scotsman who
was described in a newspaper of the day as a hard working tailor
from
Corvallis,
was Seal Rocks Resort, developed by Lydia Owens and Jas. W.
Brassfield
in 1887.88 Brassfield was born in Platt County, MO, Jan. 16,
1840. His
father, Thms. W. R. Brassfield, was a Missouri pioneer in 1821.
At the
age of 14, Brassfield entered his father’s store where he
received his
early education in the mercantile business. In 1860, he moved to
Saint
Joseph, where he clerked for two years. He then joined a party
of young
men on their way to California, then known as the Golden State.
Upon
arriving
at Ft. Hall, their route changed, and they ended up in Oregon.
In 1863,
Brassfield moved to Harrisburg, where he was employed by judge
Hiram
Smith,
and one year later he was admitted as a partner under the firm
of Smith
& Brassfield. Jan. 1, 1865, he married Lydia Owens, a native
of
Kansas
and a daughter of col. Henry Owens, of Topeka, in Harrisburg,
Kansas.
The
couple had five children: Arthur S., Hiram, Thms., W. R., Frank
O. and
Sadie.89 The firm of Smith & Brassfield continued for ten
years,
after
which the Brassfields sold out and started a store in Junction
City
where
they did business until 1881. In 1887, Lydia and Jas. Brassfield
sold
out
again and moved to Yaquina Bay where they opened a general
store. They
purchased the well-known Seal Rock property—one of the most
delightful
places on the Pacific Coast—and filed a plat map showing their
holdings
divided into 600 lots. In 1885, historian David Fagan wrote that
“the
place,
together with a large tract of land adjoining, was then the
property of
Jas. W. Brassfield, a merchant of Newport, who erected a fine
residence
near the beach and a short distance south of Seal Rock, where
his
family
in the summer months resided and enjoyed the beauties of nature
and the
ceaseless roar of the surf, which at this place is truly
magnificent;
and,
fortunate indeed is he who is permitted to enjoy the hospitality
of the
Brassfields.” At this point are shell beds, indicating that it
had been
the home of the Coastal Indians for generations, as the beds are
numerous
and range in depth of one to six feet.”90 Three entire blocks
were
dedicated
for hotel construction. A year later, two additions to Seal
Rocks
Resort
were mapped. The couple managed to build a hotel and sell a few
lots
before
getting into financial trouble. Many of their lots were deeded
to a
Portland
creditor. Of the few lots they sold, most were abandoned by
their
purchasers
and sold at auction by the county for as little as $9 a piece.
The post
office, now a community post office out of Waldport, is on
US-101. It
is
named for the rocks, but is called Seal Rock. The post office
was
established
Apr. 25, 1890, with Jas. W. Brassfield postmaster. In those days
the
rocks
were well covered with seals and sea lions.91 In the past, a
pedestrian-friendly
community with well-organized streets, parks, and public
gathering
places
was, for the most part, a sales pitch. Today the vision of
developers
is
being rekindled in many Lincoln County communities. People are
now
actively
working to make such improvements a reality. Today, the chainsaw
sculptures
of Ray Kowalski and Brian McEneny are featured prominently at
Seal Rock
on US-101.
Siletz is located
about
seven miles north of Toledo. Siletz post office was established
Feb.
24,
1890, with Francis M. Stanton (1837-1913) first postmaster. The
office
was named for Siletz River, which flows through Lincoln and Polk
counties.
As established in 1855, Siletz Reservation covered more than
1,300,000
acres, but as the pallid population of Oregon increased, the
newcomers
decided that there was “too much valuable land in the hands of
the
Indians.”
Though there were more than 2000 Indians on the reservation in
1867,
genocide,
famine, and disease had reduced the number to about 550 in 1887.
By
1882,
the allotments to the Siletz covered only 47,000 acres. In 1925,
through
the number of Indians had increased, the Siletz Agency was
closed. The
agency caring for all Indian affairs west of the Cascades is now
at
Salem;
members of various tribes— Coos, Umpqua, Siuslaw, Rogue River,
and
Tututini—live
on individual allotments and the rest are largely “squatters” on
public
domain. John Fleming Wilson’s novel, The Land Claimers (1911),
tells
the
story of those who rushed into the Siletz lands where they were
thrown
open to white settlement. Many of those who came in hopefully to
established
homestead claims and built their cabins in their last frontier
have
left;
deserted cabins and clearings now covered with brush and relics
of
their
brief stay. Because many “antagonistic” tribes had been placed
on the
reservation,
it was the scene of numerous affrays. Native braves were
sometimes
buried
with a $20 gold piece in one fist and a knife in the
other—prepared to
pay or fight their way through to the happy hunting ground.
Philip H.
Sheridan
was stationed here during a part of his Oregon sojourn. The
Siletz were
the southernmost Salishan tribe on the Oregon Coast. The name
now
designates
all the tribes on the for Siletz Reservation: Athabascan,
Yakonan,
Kusan,
Takelman, Shasta and Shahaptian linguistic families. The tribe
been
called
Celeste, Neselitch, Sailect. Leo Frachtenberg, the philologist,
in a
letter
to prof. Frantz Boas from Siletz dated Sep. 5, 1915, states that
Rogue
Rivers first applied the name Silis meaning “black bear” to what
is
know
known as Siletz Lake. The Indians and the river took their name
from
the
lake. The Tututinis are an Athabascan tribe or group of small
tribes
occupying
villages along the Lower Rogue River in Southern Oregon, and on
the
Pacific
Coast north and south of its mouth. Parrish in 1854 located
eight bands
on the Oregon Coast and three on Rogue River. The gentile system
prevailed
among them, men marrying outside of their own villages, and a
child
belonging
to the village of the father; yet they can not be considered as
one
tribe,
as villages warred one upon another without violation of
national unity
or tribal sentiment. The Tututini were removed to Siletz
Reservation as
prisoners of war in 1856. They formerly practiced polygamy,
widows
being
buried alive in the graves of their deceased spouses. In 1854
the total
population was 1,311, consisting of 448 men, 490 women, 205
boys, and
168
girls. According to Parrish the bands were: Nashmah (Nasumi, a
Kusan
village),
Chocreletan (Chocrelatan), Quahtomah (Kwatami), Cosutteutum
(Kwusatthl-khuntunne),
Euquachee (Yukicketunne), Yachute (Chemetunne), Chetlessentun
(Chetlesiyetunne),
Wishtenatin (Khwaishtunnetunne), Cheatte (Chetco), Tototin
(Tututunne),
Mackanotin (Chastacosta). J. O. Dorsey gave the following list
of
former
bands or villages on the coast north of Rogue River: Chemetunne,
Kaltsergheatunne,
Kosotshe, Kwatami, Kthukhwuttunne, Kwusathklhuntunne,
Natutshltunne,
Niletunne,
and Yukicketunne. The following were on both banks:
Chetlesiyetunne,
Etaatthatunne,
Kunechuta, Kushetunne, Mikonotunne, Targheliichetunne,
Targhutthotunne,
Testthitun, Thethlkhuttune, and Thechuntunne. On or near the
coast
south
of Rogue River were the following: Aanetun, Chetleschantunne,
Enitunne,
Khainanaitetunne, Kheerghia, Khwaishtunnetunne, Nakatkhitunne,
Natthutunne,
Nuchumatuntunne, Sentethltun, Skumeme, Tsetintunne, and
Tsetuttune.
Kthutetmetseetuttun
was on the coast just north of Rogue River. There was for many
years a
Siletz Indian Agency in Oregon. It is estimated there were 2000
Indians
at Siletz Agency in 1867. Salt Chuck, which is Chinook jargon
for “salt
water,” is a general term applied indiscriminately to Coast
tribes by
inland
tribes in the Pacific Northwest. In 1884, ethnologist Jas. O.
Dorsey
(1848-1895),
when at Siletz Agency, heard this term applied, not only by the
inland
tribes (as Takelma) to the coast peoples (Athabascan, Kusan,
etc.), but
even by Athabascan to themselves.
South Beach is an
unincorporated
part of Lincoln County located on the south shore of Yaquina
Bay.
Harborton
is the name of the place on the official platt, but that name is
not in
general use. The earliest notice of the area was during WWI when
the US
Army spruce division established Camp III at Idaho Point to get
out
lumber
for planes and ships. Camp I was at Beaver Creek near Waldport.
Logs
were
shipped by rail to South Beach and then rafted to Toledo to the
mill.
Some
of the old track bed can still be seen at the Toledo air strip,
which
is
visible through the old piling on the far side of the Yaquina.
The air
strip is 1,725 feet long, and accommodates single engine planes.
An
early
resident of South Beach, Elsie Omlid, was a cook at Camp III.
Three
buildings
on 4th Street were used as the US Army hospital during the war.
The
Omlids
remained in South Beach following the war, and their children
attended
a school located west of Toby Murray Auto Body on US-101. Omlid
recalls
one of her daughters rode the jitney on a spur of the railroad
to
school.
She remembers there was ferry service to Newport every hour.
People
could
ride free, but rigs cost $1.50. The Omlids ran a stage coach
service
for
passengers and mail along the beach. At times winter storms and
high
tides
held them up. A post office, store, and tavern were among the
first
businesses
in the area. South Beach post office, located on the south side
of
Yaquina
Bay, two miles south of Newport, was established May 18, 1916,
with
Margaret
F. Conrad first postmaster. The post office was discontinued
Jan. 31,
1946,
and re-established Jun. 1, 1949. On Jul. 31, 1960, South Beach
became a
rural station of Newport. In Aug. 1999, South Beach’s cozy and
sequestered
post office, housed in a neighborhood of wooden houses and
gravel
roads,
relocated to the Newport Business Plaza on US-101. While the old
post
office
had only one service window, the new one—located about
one-eighth of a
mile away—has the capacity to double the number of mail boxes
available
for rental to 1400. Its new, store-front location is situated in
a
78,000-square-foot
complex that houses about 25 other businesses, most of which are
not
retail.
The garage-like sites house car repair shops along with some
manufacturing
businesses and distribution centers. The old building, which
resembled
a trailer, was situated on a residential street where nearby
home-owners
walked to or made quick drives to retrieve their mail.
South Yaquina,
now a
ghost town, was directly across the bay from Yaquina City, but
this
area
apparently was never developed to the extent of its sister city
to the
north. Fagan is quoted as saying: South Yaquina is “a town that
as yet
has only its name to boast of,” and did not have a post office.
Yaquina
Bay, Yaquina Station and Yaquina River which heads near the
Benton-Lincoln
county line, and flows into the bay, bear the name of the
Yaquina. In
the
early days there was also a Yaquina City, was situated on the
eastern
side
of Yaquina Bay, about four miles from its mouth and was the
terminus of
the Willamette Valley & Coast Railway, where the company had
a
large
dock and two warehouses, and a great amount of material, giving
employment
to many workmen. There also was the Custom House presided over
by
Collins
Van Cleve. The town consisted of Jacobs & Neugass’ General
Merchandise
Store, a drugstore, meat market and hotel, the interests of the
place
being
ably kept before the public by the Yaquina Post. The land on
which the
town was situated was owned by the railroad company who saw in
it the
future
great city of the Northwest. Directly across the bay was South
Yaquina,
a town that had only its name to boast of.
Stanford post
office,
established Jul. 29, 1893, was located on the north shore of
Alsea Bay.
This post office was also known as Drift Creek, Collins, Lutgens
and,
eventually,
Nice. Its location varied from site to site along the north
shore of
the
Yaquina Bay. W. C. Shepard was first postmaster while the office
was
named
Stanford. The name of the office was changed to Lutgens on Jun.
21,
1897.
Storrs community
was
located about half way between Toledo and Elk City. Alfred
Cloake
migrated
from London with his parents in 1844 and learned the carpenter
trade
from
his father, Walter, while they lived on the farm which today is
the
site
of the City of Milwaukee, WI. He parted with his family at
Corvallis,
coming
to the Yaquina Valley and later marrying Mahala Galloway. Her
parents
and
kinfolk were living on the Yaquina. In 1866, the Cloakes built
their
first
house across from Siding One, which was renamed Storrs Railroad
Flag
Station
in 1893, according to an item in the Lincoln County Leader.
Mahala and
Alfred cleared fields, planted orchards, and raised a large
family.
Their
Niece, Maude Brown Hatler of Redding, CA, remembered a winter
she lived
with her Aunt and uncle. It was the year Cloake worked at Parker
Sawmill
near Yaquina. He rowed home Saturday evenings, towing a raft of
lumber
to be used for completing their home upriver from the cemetery.
Hatler
recalls holding the lantern. The Cloakes, who were members of
the
Adventist
Church Corps, later became missionaries for the church in
Florida.
Previously,
they had donated a small lot of their land for an adventist
church
building
and cemetery next to the Adam Rae place. Rae’s first wife
(?-1903), who
was born in Scotland, is buried in that little cemetery lot that
is now
under the Elk City Road. The Cloake’s daughter is buried near
the road
on the hill above the last schoolhouse at Elk City. A Native
American
couple
who worked for Edwin Alden Abbey (1824-? NY), possibly Ann
(1845-? OR)
and Rbt. Hill (1826-? OH), and Jas. Chester Dixon (1871-1932)
are also
said to be buried there. In 1894, Mahala and Alfred Cloake
deeded the
17
acres of Section 15 to Geo. T. Smith of Chitwood. Six years
later, the
church was torn down and the precious lumber was rafted on the
tide to
a location near Chitwood. Cook’s oxen moved it to the new site
where
the
old church was reassembled on land donated by Flora and Lafe
Pepin.
Another
member of the Storrs Community was Saml. A. Logan, who was born
in
Putnam
County, IN, Dec. 16, 1840. When Logan was six years old, his
parents
moved
to Saint Joseph, MO, and one year later, removed to Marion
County,
Iowa,
where they lived until 1862, when he, his wife, Elizabeth
Lightsinger
(1843-1890)
and parents, crossed the plains to Oregon. In 1866, he moved to
Yaquina
Bay, and in February of that year, homesteaded 168 acres on the
south
side
of Yaquina River between Toledo and Elk City. Logan also owned
280
acres
at Oysterville and was engaged in farming. The Logans’ three
children
were
Clara A., Yaquina Olive and Allen M. Logan was a member of the
Storrs
Community.
Six miles upriver from Toledo at Logan’s Bend, he built a boat
dock
from
which he would sell his vegetables. Logan also took his produce
by boat
into Newport and Toledo. In 1893, the Leader reported: “Sam
Logan has
lettuce
grown on his farm at Storrs, the one big leaf as big as a water
pail.”
The Cloakes moved to Walla Walla, WA. In 1893, O. A. Hooker, a
Civil
War
veteran, purchased the property, and added a barn by way of
improvement.
In 1905, Hooker sold the land to Flora and John D. Parry. In
1910, the
Parrys gave use of a small parcel of land for a schoolhouse
which was
on
the flat above the house. Apparently there was and earlier
school
facility
at Storrs. In 1894 the Leader reported that “Effie Crosno
(1877-1967)
closed
school at Storrs.” In 1966, Florence Payne Howell wrote: “Ben
Horning
also
taught at the Storrs School and probably others to earn money
for his
higher
education. For many years, he has been an eminent MD. He was the
younger
brother of the late Fred and Elmer Horning of Toledo, and the
son of
Mary
Jones and Thms. Horning.” Schools in the eastern part of the
county
were
located at Elk City, Storrs, at Sunnyridge and Toledo. Both
Parry and
Updike
taught at least one of these schools. In 1978, Violet King
Updike
recalled:
“Wherever I taught I tried to spend weekends with them
[parents]. I
taught
at Moody and Storrs, which is the Glen and Evelyn Parry place.
There
was
a school there in 1918. Frank came home from the war in 1919.”
Mahala
and
Alfred Cloake’s original home burned down in 1948. There was a
family
by
the name of Gibbs living at Storrs around 1897: Prof. Louis
Kossuth
Brooks
“was also the examiner who gave prospective Teachers their
qualifying
tests.
Among some of these were Ms. Gibbs of Storrs, Ms. Reynolds of
Waldport,
Ms. Eva Ewing, J. J. Turnidge of Toledo, Geo. McCluskey and his
sister,
Mamie McCluskey Litchfield and Brooks’ daughter, Ada.” Capt.
Nathan P.
Stevens (1818-1903) and his family lived across the Big Elk from
the
Cloake’s
new house. They were members of a large Toledo family that
included the
Geo. Stevens who drowned at Newport in 1883. The Stevens, who
migrated
from Maine, cultivated beautiful flowers and kept a good dock.
Later,
one
of the Stevens’ daughters, who was married to a man by the name
of
Webber,
settled nearby. Ora Sharp, the daughter of Lottie Harding
(1872-1930)
and
Wm. Sharp (1864-1942), built a house on the property after 1930.
Sharp’s
parents are buried at Elk City Cemetery.98
Taft is located on the north shore of Siletz
Bay
in the urban strip, which is now named Lincoln City. The
community was
named for Wm. Howard Taft (1857-1930), 27th president of the US.
The
post
office was established Jan. 22, 1906, and was named when Taft
was
Secretary
of War (1904-1908). John W. Bones was first postmaster, and is
said to
have suggested the name. On Dec. 8, 1964, Taft voted to become
part of
a new community to be called Lincoln City, and on Sep. 24, 1965,
the
Taft
office was designated a classified station of Lincoln City.99
Tidewater lies ten miles east of Waldport,
and
received its name because it is near the head of tide on Alsea
River.
The
post office was established Apr. 1878. Thms. Russell
(1819-1894), was
the
first postmaster. At Tidewater, the Alsea widens into an
estuary, salt
waters mingling with the fresh. In season there is much trolling
for
salmon
at this point. In this region the Alsea, formerly comprised the
northern
boundary of the Alsea Indian Reservation, with headquarters at
Agency
Farm
near Yachats. Tides are periodic short-term changes in the
height of
the
ocean surface at a particular place caused by a combination of
the
gravitational
force of the moon and sun and the motion of the earth. There are
two
bulges
that form, one that is beneath the moon’s position, and another
at a
point
on the earth directly opposite. The bulges are the crests that
cause
the
high tides. Low tides correspond to the troughs. There are two
low
waters
and two high waters each day in Oregon. The highest predicted
tide
usually
occurs during Dec. and Jan. The lowest tides of the year
generally
occur
in summer. Because of the concurrence of extreme astronomical
phenomena,
the best clam tides are in the evening in Dec. and in the
morning in
June.
Cannibal Mountain (1946'), in the Coast Range, about five miles
south
of
Tidewater, has one of those names that seems to defy efforts to
rind a
reason for the application. The region is not noted for its
cannibals,
unless they be deer flies and mosquitoes, at seems hardly likely
that
anyone
ever named the peak for such pests. The compiler has an old map
with
the
name Cannonball Mountain for this peak, but in 1946, H. G.
Hopkins,
district
ranger for the USFS at Waldport, tried to learn the history of
the name
of the mountain and could find no one in the locality that ever
heard
of
Cannonball. The point was sometimes called Canniber Mountain,
supposed
to be an Indian name meaning saddle, but search so far has
disclosed no
such Indian word. Canniber was also said to be derived from the
fact
that
old timers went to the place for canning berries, but this seems
fanciful.
Hopkins reports that stories that two well-known hunters were
there to
get venison to eat raw were denied as ridiculous by one of the
hunters
still surviving. Stories that a pioneer trapper, during a
snowstorm ate
his Indian Squaw rather than starve are of the guidebook type
rather
than
for jury trial.100
Toledo is located
on
the Yaquina, seven miles east of Newport. John Graham, the
town’s first
settler, was a native of County Donegal, Ireland, and coming
from that
restless clan of Grahams, what wonder that he should inherit his
ancestors’
dispositions and seek to lay the foundation of a family in some
more
favored
country. In 1826, Graham set sail for America in company with
several
members
of his family. On arriving in the “land of the free” he settled
in
Ohio,
where he lived for 29 years. In 1855, he moved with his family
to
Kansas,
and while there took an active part in defending the free state
from
the
depredations of the Missouri Raiders of 1856-1857, and was often
brought
in contact with the celebrated John Brown (1800-1859), also
known as
“Old
Brown of Osawatomie,” a Kansas border town, was an American
Abolitionist.
Nine years residence, however, convinced Graham that Kansas was
not a
farmer’s
paradise, so in 1864, he sold most of his property and, with his
wife
and
nine children, started one team of five yoke of cattle, one
four-mule
team
and one two-horse hack with a drove of 80 head of cattle to
cross the
plains
to the far West. On arriving in Eastern Oregon, he lived there
for a
short
time before moving to Corvallis. 1867, Graham moved to Yaquina
Bay, and
took as a claim the land where the town of Toledo now stands,
and
during
the frontier era built a 16-room estate on the west bank of
Depot
Slough,
a little above tidewater. He remained in Toledo until his death,
Feb.
16,
1883. His only son, Jos. D. Graham, was born in Carroll County,
OH,
Feb.
1, 1847. He was engaged for a number of years in the mercantile
trade
in
Toledo, during which time he was postmaster. Toledo post office,
established
Jul. 4, 1848, was in Graham’s house, and consisted of a box
nailed to
the
wall with a few divisions in it where the letters for outlying
ranches
were placed. Wm. Makey, another early settler, was first
postmaster. In
1885, he owned 160 acres of land adjoining the town on which he
lived,
was married and had two sons, Wm. and John. G. M. Buford of
Toledo, for
whom Buford Hill is named, was born in Corvallis, Jun. 22, 1880.
He was
the son of Mary B. Howell and Thms. J. Buford. He attended
Oregon State
College and Behnke-Walker Business College in Portland. Buford
married
Thecla P. Dove of Salem, Sep. 8, 1907. The couple had two
children:
Bertha
(Johnson) and Ronald W. Buford was an administrator for the
Lincoln
County
School District from 1928-1940. Buford Creek in Wallowa County
rises in
Oregon a little north of Flora, and flows northward into
Washington,
where
it drains into Grande Ronde River. It was named for Park Buford,
a
pioneer
settler nearly. The locality became important because Buford
Canyon was
used for the highway from Enterprise to Lewiston. Park Buford is
reported
to have died as a result of a rattlesnake bite, which he
received while
reaching u cabin trying to find a pup.101
Vernon post office, located three miles due
north
of Fisher, was established May 1, 1905, with Martin L. Earnest
first
postmaster.
The office closed to Fisher Feb. 29, 1908. Fisher post office,
named
for
the martin, was located on Crab Creek, some 14 miles due east of
Yachats.
The office was established Mar. 19, 1892, with Martin Johanson
first
postmaster.
J. W. Mink later held the office. Remarkable nomenclature. The
office
closed
to Alsea on Sep. 30, 1942.
Waldport, a small
maritime
community surrounded by thickly wooded hills, is located on the
south
shore
of Alsea Bay in what was part of the Coast Reservation. David
Ruble,
who
founded the community, was born in Virginia, Dec. 11, 1831. When
he was
four, his family migrated to Wabash County, IN, and lived there
until
the
spring of 1853 when Ruble, who was a miller, crossed the plains
to
Oregon.
In 1872, Ruble and his wife, Orlena Russell (1834-1912) settled
in the
Alsea Valley where he erected a gristmill, and later a sawmill
on the
North
Fork of the Alsea. The Waldport area was not opened to
settlement until
1875. During several years before he moved to Waldport in Oct.
1879,
Ruble
freighted flour and grain down the Alsea in the flat boat he
built. In
all, he is said to have made 67 trips. Waldport (Port of the
Woods) was
so named in the 1880s at the suggestion of Paul V. Wustrow, then
postmaster
at Alsea, about 19 miles southwest of Philomath. Col. Wustrow, a
well-known
character in the Alsea Valley of European birth and up-bringing,
held
that
position for nearly a quarter of a century, from Mar. 30, 1876
until
May
28, 1898. Collins post office, on the north side of Alsea Bay,
was
established
Jan. 31, 1875, with Matthew Brand serving as postmaster, and the
Waldport
office was established Jun. 17, 1881, with David Ruble in charge
of the
office. When Ruble became postmaster of Collins, the site moved
from
the
north to south shore of Alsea Bay. Ruble lost the position on
Feb. 23,
1882, and the Collins post office moved back to the north shore.
A few
months later, on Aug. 15, 1882, a new post office was acquired
for
Waldport
on the south shore, with Orlena’s father, Thms. Russell, serving
as
postmaster.
Ruble succeeded him on Sep. 27, 1883. Early settlers in this
Alsea
River
basin were Germans who came for the brief goldrush then stayed
to
develop
the timber industry. The winter of 1879-1880, Ruble and others
washed
$1700
in gold dust from beach sands. When the townsite was platted in
1884,
the
streets of Old Town were laid out by the stars, without benefit
of a
survey.
The City of Waldport was chartered in 1890. Originally a
stronghold of
the Alsea Indians, the quiet beach town also has had
incarnations as a
goldrush town and lumber port. A point south of town bears the
name of
Chief Yaquina John, one of the last members of the Alsi tribe.
Waldport’s
history is written in a hundred years of forest products. Until
the
last
two decades, fishing and dairying were also active. The area
once had
several
sawmills and salmon canneries. Logging still prevails as an
occupation,
but no sawmills remain in the area. At one time, Waldport even
started
its own railroad and was accessed by train. The line was built
in 1918
by the US army to log spruce that was used to build airplanes
during
WWI.
After the war ended, the line was acquired by the C. D. Johnson
Lumber
Company, which used to log an area south of town known as Camp
One.
When
the logging was completed in 1935, the railroad was abandoned.
Mid-century,
Waldport was manufacturing the brightly colored cedar floats
that mark
the crab fishermen’s nets, which resemble huge butterfly nets,
with
steel
rings at the top and sinkers at the lower end, where bait is
fastened.
These nets were used near the ocean ashore and in the bays,
while
copper
or iron crab pots were employed farther out on the banks. The
Alsea
Historical
Society is currently working to establish a museum dedicated to
the
local
history. Commercial literature about the place touts Waldport’s
livability,
suggesting that the town’s “relative obscurity” has spared it
the fate
of more crowded tourist towns. This may also be explained by a
nondescript
main drag that gives no hint of surrounding beaches and prime
fishing
spots.
A recent influx of retirees has spurred new homebuilding, but
this cozy
little hamlet is decidedly low-key. It is hard to picture the
quiet
beach
town of Waldport as the object of national media scrutiny, but
it
happened
twice during the 1970s and again in 1997. During the 1970s, a
Sixty
Minutes
investigative team came here to document the link between
dioxin-based
defoliants used in the area timber stands to eliminate
blackberries,
vine
maples, and other vegetation that impede the growth of Douglas
fir, to
an abnormally high incidence of birth defects and miscarriages.
This
report
and the ensuing government ban on this substance in Oregon
forests took
on national significance when soldiers exposed to ill-effects of
the
same
chemical (Agent Orange) in Vietnam were denied compensation by
the
Pentagon.
But this wasn’t the only occasion that Waldport basked in the
hot glare
of a national media spotlight during the 1970s. A 1975, New York
Sunday
Times article described a bizarre UFO cult’s recruitment of
followers
here
to undertake a rendezvous with a spacecraft that would transport
them
to
a higher place of existence. Walter Cronkite, John Chancellor
and the
like
followed up with TV coverage. Their leader, Marshall Applewhite,
exhorted
the faithful to give up their possessions and depart Oregon for
Colorado
where the ascension was to take place. The same Marshall
Applewhite
resurfaced
in the spring of 1997 at Gold Beach on the South Oregon Coast,
and the
town, like Waldport, gained international recognition following
the
Heaven’s
Gate suicides in Southern California. Mark Miller of Newsweek
reported
that “in Mar. 1997, “some followers of Heaven’s Gate embarked on
a bus
trip to Santa Rosa, CA, and to Gold Beach, OR, the place where
cult
leader
Marshall Applewhite first found his calling in the wilderness.
They
continued
on to Ashland, OR, and Sacramento, CA, running up more than
$2000 in
hotel
bills.” The cult’s mass suicide in Southern California prompted
another
media explosion with reverberations felt in Waldport. Broadcast
media
from
Dateline NBC to Good Morning America interviewed locals here for
impressions
of the deceased, as a stunned and curious nation looked on. On
Nov. 17,
1998, people from as far away as Australia, England and Canada
gathered
at Tillicum State Park in South Lincoln County to commemorate
the 100th
anniversary of the sinking of a British clipper off the coast
near
Waldport.
Fr. Gerald Steckler of Saint Anthony’s Catholic Church in
Waldport
blessed
the stone and plaque placed in the park in memory of the 23
seamen,
including
the Atalanta’s captain, who died Nov. 17, 1898. The Atalanta had
stopped
at Tacoma, WA, and was heading south for a run to South Africa
with a
cargo
full of wheat, when it went aground off the coast. John McMahon,
a
descendant
of one of the three crew members to survive the wreck, Frank
McMahon,
gave
a brief speech. A proclamation from the mayor of Sydney,
Australia, the
city from which the ship had set out, was also read. Among those
attending
were Waldport Mayor Phyllis Boehme, Yachats mayor Arthur Roberts
and
his
wife, Fern Roberts, and Lincoln County Commissioner Nancy
Leonard, as
well
as Port of Alsea Manager Maggie Rivers and Doris Tai, a
representative
of the US Forest Service, who arranged for the plaque and
memorial
stone.
Placer Lake is on Reynolds Creek about four miles south of
Waldport. It
was named by the USFS in 1966 as this part of the Siuslaw
National
Forest
was developed for recreation. Sometime in the 1870s a promoter
staked
mining
claims in the area and constructed an elaborate system of
ditches and
flumes
to fool prospective purchasers. The scheme fell through but
later
Chinese
miners moved in and reportedly recovered a sizable quantity of
gold by
placer mining with water from the creek and lake. Evidence of
the old
ditches
could still be seen in 1966.
Wecoma Beach is
two
miles
north of Lincoln City, overlooking the ocean. John Gill in his
Dictionary
of the Chinook Jargon, 1909, says that wecoma is the jargon word
for
ocean
or sea. First named Wecoma, the post office was established Apr.
3,1935,
with Wm. Lohkamp serving as first postmaster. The Wecoma office
was
located
on US-101 at the intersection of Holmes Road. On Nov. 1, 1949
that
office
closed when it was renamed Wecoma Beach. On Apr. 1, 1957, Wecoma
Beach
was designated a rural station of Oceanlake. On Dec. 8, 1964,
the town
voted to become a part of a new community to be called Lincoln
City,
and
on Sep. 25, 1965 the post office was designated a contract
station of
Lincoln
City. The Wecoma Beach office was discontinued on Aug. 31, 1969.
West Yaquina was
on the
south bank of the Yaquina River, almost directly across from
Yaquina
City,
a railroad boom town of the 1880s. The settlement was named for
the
Yaquina,
a small tribe of the Yakonan family, formerly living about
Yaquina Bay.
Hale gives the the name as Iakon and Yakone, in Ethnology and
Philology,
1846; Lewis and Clark give Youikeones and Youkone; Wilkes’
Western
America,
1849, gives Yacone. Another form of the word is Acona. Yaquina
John
Point,
on the south side of the entrance to Alsea Bay just southwest of
Waldport,
was named for Yaquina John, a chief or councillor of the
Yaquina, who
lived
in the vicinity of Alsea Bay. Yahal was a Yaquina Village on the
north
side of the Yaquina. Though Yaquina City has been called a lost
city,
most
local people know how to get there—by driving three miles
southeast of
Newport up Yaquina Bay Road to Sawyers Landing. Yaquina City at
least
left
a paper trail. A post office operated there from July 14, 1868,
to Jul
31, 1961. Wm. Wallace Carr served as first postmaster. West
Yaquina is
a lost city too, though it really was nothing more than a
settlement.
Sometime
during the railroad boom of the 1880s, a plat map for West
Yaquina was
filed at the county courthouse (then in Corvallis). It shows a
perfectly
planned rectangular settlement with 40 blocks of lots and eleven
streets
running east-west that intersect three north-south streets:
Granville,
Collins and Emery. Early property ownership maps indicate Sam
Case,
founder
of Newport, was probably West Yaquina’s owner and developer.
Case’s
West
Yaquina vision of grandeur never materialized. His village shows
up in
the distant background of a photo taken around 1890 as four or
five
buildings
that appear to be houses. What was the reason for West Yaquina’s
existence?
What did potential lot buyers see in its future? It may have
been the
location
of a salmon cannery. In March 1888 Thms. Culbertson and James
Scott
announced
their intention to construct a cannery at West Yaquina. Whether
or not
it was ever built is not known. One reason for West Yaquina’s
descent
into
obscurity may have been its loss of the county seat to Toledo in
the
1896
election. In May 1895, pres. Grover Cleveland (1837-1908) signed
the
bill
opening the Siletz Reservation. This would have a decisive
effect on
the
early history of Toledo. For Toledo simultaneously was locked in
a
battle
with the town of West Yaquina for the county seat. West Yaquina
no
longer
exists; it is possible Toledo would have met the same fate if it
had
lost
hold of the seat. The first election came up in June 1894, and
it was a
relatively calm affair. The Leader said nothing on the matter
until two
weeks beforehand, when it came out with a dispassionate, but
large
piece
on the reasons to vote for Toledo. Geographic proximity to the
rest of
the county, good roads, and the cost of moving the seat were
listed
prominently.
Also given space was the argument that the prospective opening
of the
reservation
would move even more people into the Toledo area. In any case,
the
editor
was confident that no city would get a majority with Newport and
Elk
City
also in the race. He was right; votes split geographically and
West
Yaquina
garnered only 41 percent of the vote to Toledo’s 32 percent. The
final
vote between the two cities two years later was much more
lively. West
Yaquina apparently got the first blow in April 1896, as the
Leader
responded
with a big front-page article, “Something About Rings.” Stewart
writes:
“One of the stock arguments kept on hand and constantly in use
by those
opposed to Toledo for county seat is that there is a “ring” at
Toledo
which
they want to tear down.” Yet they do not say who runs this
“ring” or
who
composes it, he complains: “If by the wholesale charge of “ring”
it is
meant that the people of Toledo work together and pull together
for the
common good, then we plead guilty and ask no mercy. There is
such a
“ring”
in Toledo.” Only one Toledo resident had yet held county office,
he
states,
and only two have been nominated for this election. Stewart then
turns
on West Yaquina: “This ‘ring’ is not backed in their fight for
the
county
seat by any foreign capitalist, town lot boomer, national
banker, nor
even
a busted banker, but is making a clean, honorable fight for it.”
This
theme
is developed much more fully the next week in “Has Lincoln
County a
County
Seat For Sale?” Stewart acknowledges the common talk that
outside
interests
are trying to influence the election with money, and he then
writes:
“Are
the citizens and taxpayers of the grand young county of Lincoln
ready
to
let the town let speculators, the national bankers, and the
coterie of
speculating shylocks come into our community and debauch an
election;
to
defeat the will of the people with money; to upset and defeat
the will
of the people in order that their town lots that they have
bought for
speculation
may be enhanced in value and thus bring dollars to their
pockets? Can
the
bankers and speculators twist and wind the people of the county
to
their
own use and benefit by their brazen check and dollars? We do not
believe
they can.” Things quieted down in the month before the election.
The
harshest
the Leader got was to proclaim “Keep it fairly before the
people—Boodle
boon town lots and high taxes means West Yaquina; home people
and low
taxes
mean Toledo.” On June 4th, the Leader calmly announced Toledo’s
“victory,”
also stating that the Indians had behaved very well in their
first
election.
In the next week’s Leader we are able to discover just how well
the
Indians
had behaved. The election table showed Siletz precinct going 149
to 0
for
Toledo (even the vote in Toledo precinct was only 163 to 11!).
The
final
vote was 615 to 504. Clearly, Toledo won the county seat because
of the
timing of the reservation’s closure. Even though Stewart made no
comment
on this fact, West Yaquina picked upon it and threatened to
contest the
election in order to get the Indian votes thrown out. The Leader
responded
with a threat of its own. Toledo, it said, had hired one of the
best
attorneys
in the state and started investigating voters in other
precincts. “The
use of money can now be established,” Stewart wrote, and “We do
not
hesitate
to predict that if a contest is started that the county seat
will
remain
at Toledo; but some persons who voted in Lincoln County on June
1,
1896,
will come very near to the doors of the Oregon penitentiary.”
West
Yaquina
quietly dropped the challenge. Bushrod W. Wilson, a popular
resident
and
pioneer of Benton County, was actively involved in the Corvallis
&
Yaquina Bay Railroad. He was one of the original incorporators
of the
line,
which had its terminus at West Yaquina, where he owned property,
and
held
the positions of secretary as well as president. A short article
dated
March 16, 1911, from the Newport Signal indicates West Yaquina
was a
shipping
hub for dairy products and produce grown in the Beaver Creek-Ona
area
of
south county. From West Yaquina, good were floated across the
river to
Yaquina City and loaded onto Willamette Valley bound trains. Why
didn’t
farmers simply bring their goods to Newport? The short answer is
inadequate
roads. As a bird flies, the distance between Newport and Ona was
estimated
at eight or nine miles, but the lack of roads made it seem much
farther.
In 1911, L. M. Commons of Ona claimed that due to a lack of
roads, she
had not visited Newport for two years. A 1906 map in the
archives of
the
Oregon Coast History Center shows there were two “wagon roads”
that
went
to West Yaquina. One originated on the beach where Moore Creek
empties
into the ocean, in the vicinity of the south end of the
present-day
Newport
Airport. The second came from the south, perhaps originating at
Ona. As
it reached West Yaquina, it paralleled McCaffrey Slough. A few
unconfirmed
stories have circulated that West Yaquina was more than a
transportation
hub. Some have claimed it was a watering hole where residents of
Yaquina
went to drink and patronize its brothels. West Yaquina probably
declined
as transportation routes improved. Apparently there were a few
houses
(lacking
running water and electricity) there as recently as the 1950s.
At that
time, they were accessible only by boat. There are just a few
old-timers
around who know anything about the long-gone settlement called
West
Yaquina.
Perhaps even fewer people know where it was and how to get there
today.
Adventurous hikers and mountain bikers who have stumbled upon
the site
of West Yaquina reported only a few remnants of Sam Case’s
settlement
remain
today—trees planted in a row, the outline of a house or two.
West
Yaquina’s
story has yet to be written, but these few sources shed some
light on
its
history.
Whale Cove is a
tiny
hamlet at the north base of Cape Foulweather, two miles south of
Depoe
Bay. There are many caves cut in sandstone cliffs here. Many
years ago
by a party of whites found some native people at work on the
carcass of
a dead whale, inspiring the name. In the first months of 1996,
the
media
exploded with stories raising the possibility that Whale Cove
could
supplant
Plymouth Rock as the birthplace of a nation. Rotting timbers
from what
is theorized to have been a stockade built by sir Francis Drake
in 1579
were unearthed in an area where stories have long circulated of
the
English
pirate’s landfall. These notions have been fueled by an unsigned
ship
log
from Drake’s voyage in a museum in England that identified 44
degrees
latitude
(same as Whale Cove) as a landing site, and an English shilling
found
on
the Central Oregon Coast in 1982 dating from 1560; excavations
of a
nearby
Indian village though to have been buried in the year 1600 that
turned
up brass items, blades and Venetian beads; a photo from the
1930s
showing
a local resident with a distinctly English sword he unearthed; a
ship’s
cutlass found in Newport at the turn of the 20th century bearing
the
markings
of 16th century English arsenal. Since the initial blizzard of
publicity,
there has been no word from the archaeologists and historians
involved
in corroborating these claims. As most history books have placed
New
Albion,
Drake’s fabled lost settlement, near San Francisco, researchers
will
not
be too quick to claim otherwise without years of research. In
any case,
given such stories of Drake’s supposed landing and the area’s
legacy as
a bootlegger’s harbor during Prohibition, Whale Cove has to have
the
most
interesting unwritten history on the Oregon Coast.
Winant post
office was
named for capt. Jas. J. Winant (1838-1895) who made his home
nearby.
There
are few names indelibly connected with the history of Yaquina
Bay than
J. J. Winant, who was born in upstate New York, Apr. 12, 1838.
In the
fall
of 1856 he followed his brother Mark to California where they
began
dealing
in oysters in San Francisco Bay; they were the real pioneers of
the
oyster
trade on the Pacific Coast. Winant was master of vessels on the
Pacific
Coast for nearly a third of a century. He had command of the
schooner
Anna
G. Doyle, running between Shoalwater Bay, Oysterville, WA, and
San
Francisco
in the 1860s. He traded pearls in the South Pacific and hunted
walrus
and
whales along the shore of Alaska, the Aleutian Islands, and the
Coast
of
Siberia. A salvage voyage to the coast of Mexico, where he
explored the
sunken ship City of San Francisco and recovered $23,000 of her
treasure,
was the climax of his legendary career. In 1862 or 1863, the
Winant
brothers
began the oyster trade on Yaquina Bay. In June 1882, Winant
married Amy
A. Peck in Alameda County, CA. They had one child, Anita. Winant
was
located
at Oysterville Station on the Corvallis & Eastern Railway,
about
two
miles due south of Yaquina City, on the north bank of the
Yaquina. The
post office was established Nov. 17, 1902, with Emma Leabo first
postmaster.
The office closed to Yaquina City Nov. 30, 1946.
Yachats is south
of
Newport,
where the Coast Range presses closer to the sea, and commercial
hustle
gives way to tidepools, seal lions, and whales. Known as the
“Gem of
the
Oregon Coast,” Yachats may be the perfect coast town. This
resort
community
of 600-some people nestled in the shadow of Cape Perpetua is
down close
to the water, nearly buried in salal and huckleberry. Yachats
Bay
gravels
yield and abundance of agates, flowered jasper, blood stones and
petrified
woods. Yachats is a corruption of the Alsea word yahuts, meaning
“dark
waters at the foot of the mountain,” which is certainly
descriptive of
this area where the Coast Range abuts the ocean in an unyielding
tumult
of relentless surf against basalt bastions. On a calm day it can
be an
exciting contest to witness; in stormy weather it is awesome.
Consequently,
this is a favorite stretch of coastline for watching winter
storms.
Many
people have lived here for the past 8000 years; the remnant was
removed
to Siletz Reservation and is virtually extinct. Alsea Indians
used the
beach regularly, and left middens, or piles of clam, oyster,
crab, and
mussel shells. Middens formed when, after a seafood feast,
diners threw
sand over the shells to lessen the odor. After many shellfish
meals,
the
middens resembled small dunes. While Native campfires are gone
now, the
legacy of the Alsea will live on forever as long as people come
here to
gaze in wonder at sunsets and at the fury of winter storms.
Formerly
known
as Ocean View, Yachats is located at the mouth of the Yachats,
eight
miles
south of Waldport. Ocean View post office was established Nov.
5, 1887,
with Geo. M. Starr first postmaster. The office was discontinued
Sep.
27,
1893, and re-established Apr. 27, 1904. This early office was
located
about
a mile north of the City of Yachats. The new post office was
established
Oct. 13, 1916, with Donna Berry first postmaster. The name of
office
was
changed from Ocean View to Yachats at the suggestion of J. K.
Berry
because
it was at the mouth of Yachats River. The rustic building at the
corner
of Third and Pontiac streets in Yachats has been a part of this
coastal
community for generations. Built in the shape of a cross from
timber
hauled
down the Yachats River, the Little Log Church was completed and
dedicated
in 1930. It was served by ministers from the Oregon Conference
of the
Evangelical
Church, and later by pastors from the Presbyterian Church. When
the
congregation
grew too large for the building, members built a new church a
few
blocks
away, and the Little Log Church and property were sold to the
Oregon
Historical
Society. It became a museum in 1970, and the site was deeded to
the
City
of Yachats in 1896. The church underwent complete restoration in
1993,
made possible by community support and volunteer laborers. Some
of the
original logs were saved and can be seen at the top of the
church. Also
saved were the bell and belfry, windows and sashes, flooring,
pulpit,
pews
(some additional pews have been added to the west wing of the
church
sanctuary,
chairs, wood stove, choir-rail, a painting of the three wise
men, and a
harmonium. The church is used for weddings and special events.
In 1997,
the 400-square-foot museum annex was built with the help of the
Friends
of the Little Log Church to house exhibits not connected with
the
original
building. It sits in the “footprints” of the old church manse,
later a
Sunday school, which was torn down in 1976. Today, the museum
houses
local
historical artifacts, local art and literature. Clothing and
tools from
pioneer days are on display at the museum along with period
furnishings.
In 1971, Alma Phelps Plunkett, who operated the Burnt Woods
general
store
and post office for many years, recalled: “My father, Rev. Rolla
Phelps,
moved to Waldport. He didn’t have any kind of religious service
at
Yachats
at all, so he got to thinking that he really ought to have a
church
down
there. He and his brother got busy and started cutting logs.
Rolland
Dawson
in Upper Yachats helped them, as did a lot of other people. In
1927,
they
built the little log church which now belongs to the Lincoln
County
Historical
Society.” For many years “Dunk” Dunkelberger was a blacksmith at
Yachats
for several gypo logging outfits. One day a hobo entered the
shop and
asked
for a job. “Business was slack and Dunk wanted to get rid of the
“bo”
as
quickly as possible so he told him that the job was his if he
could
make
a three-way weld, a task that was considered impossible. Then
Dunk went
out to lunch chuckling to himself and expecting the tramp to be
gone
when
he got back. The hobo was gone when he returned, but he left
behind
Dunk’s
duckbilled tongs neatly welded together about the horn of the
anvil in
a perfect three-way weld. It took almost two days to saw and
file the
tongs
from the anvil and retemper the horn. Smelt Sands State
Recreation Area
is located at the north edge of Yachats, one of the few places
in the
world
blessed with a run of oceangoing smelt. From April to October,
sea-run
smelt hurl themselves up the Yachats River, aiming straight
towards
locals
with clever triangular smelt nets and oily diets. During the
Yachats
smelt
fry held in July, up to 700 pounds of this sardine-like fish are
served
on the grounds of Yachats School. This is also the location of
the
well-known
sculpture by local artist Jim Adler that has become a symbol of
the
Moon
Fish arts program in Yachats. Off Camp One Road north of
Yachats, a
“Cullen-Friestedt”
Burro railroad track-laying crane sits on a small section of
railroad
track
that was laid by an all volunteer track crew on the morning of
July 1.
These new tracks, which came from Toledo, sit on the ground
where in
1918,
the US Army Corps of Engineers constructed a railroad. Members
of the
Yaquina
Pacific Railroad Historical Society, an enthusiastic group of
Lincoln
County
rail fans interested in exploring and preserving the area’s
railroad
and
timber history, placed the latest set of tracks. President Larry
Reisch
and treasurer Rich. Cullison, both of Yachats, described the
history of
the railroad in the area. “In 1918, the Army Corps of Engineers
built
what
they called the Spruce Pacific Railroad from Camp One north to
South
Beach,”
Cullison said. “The plan was to haul out the spruce wood they
cut here
and use it to build the planes for WWI. The train was the only
way out.
It crossed over a trestle in Waldport on the way to South Beach,
since
there weren’t really any usable roads. But just as they got it
going,
the
war ended, and the tracks sat idle until 1922. Then Gordon
Manary
bought
them, turned Camp One into a logging camp, logged the spruce,
took it
to
South Beach via the train, and floated it upriver to Toledo to
C. D.
Johnson’s
sawmill. “They ran the operation from 1922 to 1937, and at one
time,
400
people lived here in Camp One,” he continued. “They had their
own
school
and commissary— Manary’s old house is still standing. They used
a big
engine
to haul the timber to South Beach and smaller, sidewinder
engines
worked
the spur tracks all over these hills, bringing the logs into the
main
camp.
There were miles of tracks everywhere. Camp One was one of 12
logging
camps
scattered all over the area. The 12th one was in Siletz.” It’s
fascinating
to look at the connection between the railroad and the timber
industry
in this area,” said Reisch. “Our goal as the historical society
is to
bring
knowledge to the public of the major impact the railroad had.”
Reisch
said
the historical society hopes to build an interpretive center in
Toledo.
“We were taken by surprise with an awesome gesture by Bob Melob
of
Willamette
& Pacific Railway, who donated the railroad post office car
that
has
been sitting next to the platform since the opening party (of
the new
Toledo
Post Office) to us,” he said. “He feels that with appropriate
interior
renovation, this car could be ‘good to go,’ on a variety of
assignments,
including public awareness of track safety issues through
Operation
Lifesaver.”
Yamada was located
on
South Beaver Creek, three miles north of Alsea Bay and two miles
due
south
of Ona. Yamada post office was established Mar. 26, 1898, with
Newton
L.
Guilliams (1866-1932) first and only postmaster. The story of
Yamada is
an interesting but brief chapter in Lincoln County’s postal
past. The
rise
and fall of Yamada took place in a span of about 21 months.
Yamada’s
story
has its roots in Japan, where there are at least two places by
that
name.
It is reported that Yamada post office was established as the
result of
some feuding between people on South Beaver Creek against the
patrons
of
Ona post office, which was on the main Beaver Creek, or north
branch.
It
is unfortunate for inquiring minds that the crux of the
controversy was
not recorded for posterity. Whatever the dispute, it probably
came to
an
end when Guilliams persuaded postal authorities to established a
post
office
on South Beaver Creek. The proliferation of post offices in the
early
days
of Lincoln County probably can be attributed to poor or even
nonexistent
roads. Home delivery was challenging, if not impossible, and
travel to
a distant, centrally located post office for mail pickup was
impractical.
Quite often the post office was nothing more than a small corner
of an
isolated store that served a rural area rather than a real town.
Store
owners coveted a post office contract, as that amounted to a
guarantee
of a steady flow of foot traffic. A store with a post office
instantly
became a community’s social center and gathering place. In any
event,
Yamada
post office had a short life. The name of a new post office
usually was
selected by the first postmaster. Whether Guilliams had ever
been to
Japan
is not certain, but his brother, Rufus F. Guilliams (1862-1894),
was a
ship’s captain who in the year prior to his unexpected death in
Dec.
1894
had been sealing off the coast of Alaska and cruising off the
coast of
Japan. The Japanese word yamada means a mountain field. They
liked the
sound of the word and later applied it to the Lincoln County
post
office.
The Guilliams family had lived in Lincoln County since 1879 when
Newton’s
parents, Rachel Evelyn Barnes (1840-1932) and John L. Guilliams
(1833-1917),
and their eight children settled in South Beaver Creek. For
reasons
unknown,
the Yamada post office was discontinued on Dec. 26, 1899, less
than two
years after it opened. The rival Ona post office remained in
operation
into the 1940s. Guilliams apparently lived out his years in
Lincoln
County.
In the 1910 census he is listed as a farmer. Newton Guilliams,
his
parents
and many of his siblings are buried in Fern Ridge Cemetery at
Seal Rock.
Yaquina City, now
a
ghost
town, was situated on the southeastern shore of Yaquina Bay,
about four
miles from its mouth, and was the terminus of the Willamette
Valley
&
Coast Railway, where the company had a large dock and two
warehouses,
and
a great amount of material, giving employment to many workmen.
At
Yaquina
City wheat, and much other produce, would be shipped to the San
Francisco
market, en route to the wide world. The history of town is the
history
of railroading and tourism in Lincoln County and the development
of the
greater Newport area. Yaquina City, now only a memory of its
boom town
days of the late 19th and early 20th century was in its heyday
the
largest
population center in Lincoln County with almost 2000 citizens.
It was
also
a thriving tourist center. Although first platted just a brief
seven
years
earlier, in 1889 Yaquina City boasted of: “Good school and
church
privileges,
a fine hotel, a sawmill, three salmon canneries, the only
banking house
in the county outside of Corvallis, a shipyard, custom house,
telephone
office, large warehouses and docks with equipment for handling
freight,
railway depot and yard with the company’s machine shops and a
number of
other business establishments.” Other business establishments
included
Jacob’s & Neugass’ General Store as well as a drug store and
a meat
market. The grade school at one time reached an enrollment of 35
students,
and a teacher daily crossed the bay to teach at the rapidly
growing
school.
The Custom House, erected in 1881, was presided over by custom’s
collector
Collins Van Cleve and was situated about a quarter of a mile to
the
north
of the dock of Yaquina City. The interests of the place being
ably kept
before the public by the Yaquina Post, a newspaper originally
established
in Newport by Van Cleve in Apr. 1882, and was moved to Yaquina
City a
month
later. The paper consisted of eight pages, each with five
columns, and
its force was directed chiefly to “the benefit of the bay
country.” Van
Cleve was born in Morgan County, IL, Aug. 26, 1833. His father,
Dr.
John
Van Cleve, was a Methodist minister. At the age of 14, Van Cleve
apprenticed
for the printer’s trade until the Civil War. Following the war,
he
worked
for the Oregonian and Portland Times. In 1868, Van Cleve founded
the
Albany
Register, which he edited until 1882. Directly across the bay
from
Yaquina
City was the town of South Yaquina, but this area apparently was
never
developed to the extent of its sister city to the north. Fagan
is
quoted
as saying: South Yaquina is “a town that as yet has only its
name to
boast
of.” Yaquina post office, located about three miles miles
southeast of
Newport, was established Jul. 14, 1868, with Wm. Wallace Carr
first
postmaster.
The post office was discontinued Oct. 25, 1869, and
re-established Jul.
24, 1882. The office was discontinued again May 10, 1883, and
re-established
once more on Dec. 30, 1885. The office became a rural station of
Newport
on Jul. 31, 1961. West Yaquina, South Yaquina, Yaquina City,
Yaquina
Bay
and Yaquina River, which heads near the Benton-Lincoln county
line, and
flows into the bay, bear the name of the Yaquina, a small tribe
of the
Yakonan family, formerly living about Yaquina Bay. Hale gives
the the
name
as Yakon and Yakone, in Ethnology and Philology, 1846, p. 218;
Lewis
and
Clark give Youikeones and Youone; Wilkes’ Western America, 1849,
gives
Yacone. Another form of the word is Acona. Yaquina John Point is
on the
south side of the entrance to Alsea Bay just southwest of
Waldport. It
was named for Yaquina John, a chief or councillor of the
Yaquina, who
lived
in the vicinity of Alsea Bay. Yahal was a Yaquina Village on the
north
side of the Yaquina. In 1912, there were a few survivors, for
the
greater
part are of mixed blood, on the Siletz Reservation. Located at
Toledo,
the world’s largest spruce sawmill was built by the US
government in
1918
to cut spruce lumber for airplane manufacture. The mill was
later sold
to C. D. Johnson Lumber Company (now Georgia-Pacific
Corporation). The
1500 soldiers of the Spruce Division who were stationed here
were
headquartered
at Yaquina City.
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Early Words
and
Sermons (1): An Online Ministry of Rev. Marilyn A. Riedel
Early
Words and
Sermons (2)
Early
Words and
Sermons (3)



Dobbie Obituaries and Letters
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